DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 62.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Richard

Knitted jacket for men, with raglan, high neck and zipper in DROPS Karisma and DROPS Alpaca

DROPS 85-13
DROPS 85-13
Sizes: 12/14 years - S/M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest: 102-108-114-124-136 cm
Hem: 92-98-104-114-124 cm


Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
600-700-800-850-950 gr nr 01, natural
and use:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600 gr nr 0618, beige

DROPS 4.5 mm and 5.5 mm circular and double-pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

1 Zipper: 55-65-70-70-70 cm long

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 62.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 15 sts x 21 rows with 1 strand of each yarn on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: *K 1, P 1*, repeat from *-*.

Pattern: The diagrams are showing all rows seen from the right side.

Decreasing tips (for raglan):
All decs are made on the right side.
On front- and back piece dec before the 3 sts before/after the marker, and on the sleeves dec right beside the marker.
Start 2 sts before the marker on the sleeves and 5 sts before the marker on front and back, and work as follows:
K 2 tog, 1 st in seed st, K 1, 1 st in seed st, slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso.
___________________________________________________________________

BODY
The cardigan are worked back and fort on circular needle.
Cast on 137-147-155-171-187 sts on smaller circular needles with 1 strand Karisma + 1 strand Alpaca. Knit rib, keeping 3 sts in garter st at each side for front edges, and begin and end rib with K 1 (seen from the right side).
When the piece measures 3-4-4-4-4 cm change to larger circular needles and Pattern 1, keeping 3 sts in garter st at each side for front edges. See that the K rib in the pattern is above the K rib in ribbing.
Place a marker in the 36-38-40-44-48th st in from each side (it will be a K 1), there are 65-71-75-83-91 sts between markers on back.
When the piece measures 10-12-12-12-12 cm inc 1 st at each side of both sts with markers. Inc every 5-6-6-6-6 cm a total of 4 times = 153-163-171-187-203 sts – knit the increased sts into the pattern as you go along.
When the piece measures 32-40-41-42-43 cm bind off 7 sts at each side for armholes (= bind off the st with the marker + 3 sts each side of that st) = 67-73-77-85-93 sts on back and 36-38-40-44-48 sts on each front.
Lay piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVES
Sleeves knitted in the round.
Cast on 32-34-36-36-40 sts on smaller double-pointed needles with 1 strand Karisma + 1 strand Alpaca; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib – start with K 1 at marker.
When the piece measures 6-8-8-8-8 cm change to larger double-pointed needles and Pattern 1 – see that the K rib in the pattern is above the K rib in the ribbing.
When the piece measures 10-14-10-14-10 cm inc 1 st each side of the K st at marker every 2.5-2-2.5-2-2.5 cm a total of 14-16-16-17-17 times = 60-66-68-70-74 sts – knit the increased sts in the pattern as you go along.
When the piece measures 45-48-50-50-52 cm bind off 7 sts at marker (bind off the the K st at marker + 3 sts each side of it) = 53-59-61-63-67 sts.
Lay piece aside and knit second sleeve.

YOKE
Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as Body where you bound off for armholes = 245-267-279-299-323 sts
Put a marker in each transition between Body and sleeves = 4 markers. Knit 3-1-1-1-0 rows before beginning shaping.
Read entire section before knitting:
Raglan shaping: Dec at each side of all markers (= 8 decs) – see Decreasing tips above – every other row 21-23-24-25-27 times.

Neck:
When the piece measures 49-57-59-60-62 cm put 3-4-5-6-6 sts at each center front edge on st holders for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 2-0-0-2-4 times and 1 st 2-6-6-4-2 times.
After all shaping is complete 59-63-65-71-75 sts remain.

Neckband:
Pick up and knit approx. 10-16 sts at each side of neck on fronts (including sts on st holders) with 1 strand of each yarn and put all sts on smaller circular needles. K 1 row from wrong side, then K 1 row from right side, adjusting (inc/dec) to 83-83-91-103-111 sts on 2nd row. Then knit rib, keeping 3 sts in garter st at each side and beginning rib with K 1 (as seen from the right side). When the collar measures 20-22-22-24-24 cm bind off all sts in rib.

ASSEMBLY
Sew opening under the sleeve.
Sew in zipper – start at lower edge. Fold the collar in half to wrong side and stitch in place, covering end of zipper.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 85-13

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (141)

country flag Carolien wrote:

Ik wil dit vest graag breien maar ik begrijp dat dit vest met twee verschillende garens samen gebreid wordt? En van de Karisma Superwash heb ik meer nodig dan de Alcalpa?

16.09.2019 - 16:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Carolien,

Ja dat klopt. Het vest wordt met 2 draden gebreid en omdat Alpaca meer uitloopt (er zitten meer meters op 50 gram) heb je daar minder bollen van nodig.

17.09.2019 - 08:04

country flag Ana Barreiro wrote:

Me gustaria tejer este chaleco pero no con aguja circular. Me podrian enviar el patron. Desde ya mil gracias

22.08.2019 - 16:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ana. No enviamos los patrones personalizados. Aquí puedes consultar como trabajar el patrón para una aguja circular con agujas rectas: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=13&cid=23

28.08.2019 - 20:55

country flag Manja wrote:

Hallo, ich würde die Jacke gerne von oben stricken. Wie stelle ich das am einfachsten an? Anleitung rückwärts lesen? Ich stricke generell lieber von oben. Dann muss ich nix zusammen nähen und ich kann die Länge des Rumpfes und der Ärmel schöner anpassen. Ich hoffe Sie können mir weiterhelfen. Vielen Dank Manja

31.03.2019 - 17:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Manja, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen am besten nehmen Sie bitte Kontakt mit Ihrem DROPS Laden auf - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail oder einen Strickforum. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.04.2019 - 13:50

country flag Dominique wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai commencé le raglan comme indiqué : 5 m avant le marqueur pour le dos/devant et 2 m avant le marqueur pour les manches. Dois-je continuer ainsi pour les 3ème, 5ème (etc) rangs, ou continuer les diminutions en passant à 3 m avant les marqueurs pour le dos/devant et juste avant le marqueur pour les manches comme indiqué au début ? D'autre part, les diminutions sont-elles à exécuter dans le même ordre, qu'on arrive sur les manches ou qu'on les quitte ? Merci.

22.03.2019 - 18:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Dominique, vous commencez à diminuer pour le raglan 5 m avant le marqueur du dos/du devant mais 2 mailles avant le marqueur des manches (= les 2 dernières mailles du devant droit/du dos). Ces diminutions sont à répéter à chaque marqueur (= 8 diminutions par rang). Bon tricot!

25.03.2019 - 08:35

country flag Barbara wrote:

Buongiorno, sono arrivata al modellamento del collo. Dato che è la prima volta che faccio un lavoro di questo tipo, ho qualche domanda: le maglie da lasciare in sospeso sono quelle all’inizo e alla fine del ferro, giusto? Messe in sospeso le maglie, “salto” quelle iniziali e comincio con un nuovo gomitolo? Le maglie da intrecciare ai bordi sono le prime che ho sul ferro? Grazie!

17.03.2019 - 10:12

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Barbara.Sì, mette in sospeso le prime e le ultime maglie sui ferri. Le maglie che intreccia sono le prime sui ferri, sempre dal lato dello scollo. Buon lavoro!

17.03.2019 - 20:08

country flag Franziska wrote:

Hallo, ich verstehe leider den Halsausschnitt überhaupt nicht. Kann den jemand genauer erklären? Was genau heißt 'auf beiden Seiten'? Und die Abkettung der Maschen erfolgt dann immer nur auf einer oder auf beiden Seiten?

06.02.2019 - 21:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Franziska, die Maschen für den Halsausschnitt werden am Anfang jeder Reihe (= Hin- sowie Rückreihe = beidseitig) stillgelegt/abgekettet. Nach 49-62 cm, stricken Sie die ersten 3-4-5-6-6 M am Anfang der Hinreihe, legen Sie diese Maschen still, Reihe wie zuvor bis zur Ende stricken, wenden. Am Anfang nächster Reihe (= Rückreihe) stricken Sie die ersten 3-4-5-6-6 M und legen Sie diese Maschen still, die Reihe wie zuvor bis zur Ende stricken. Jetzt sollen Sie die Maschen am Anfang nächste 2 Reihe abketten (= Hin sowie Rückreihe): 2 M. (2) 0-0-2-4 Mal und 1 M. (2) 6-6-4-2 Mal. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.02.2019 - 09:56

country flag Michelle wrote:

Bonjour , j'ai bien compris le raglan pour cela il n y a pas de soucis , c'est juste une question de mailles qui me bloque un peu.Voici mon soucis, après mes 2m ens j'ai une maille end , 1maille env , 1m end , si je suis ceci comme indiqué dans les explications: 1 m au point fantaisie, 1 m end, 1 m au point fantaisie je contrarie les mailles que j'ai que dois je faire ? merci

31.01.2019 - 11:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Michelle, ces 2 m point fantaisie doivent se tricoter comme dans A.1, c'est-à-dire 1 rang à l'envers sur l'endroit et 1 rang à l'envers sur l'envers (= 1ère maille de M.1). Entre ces 2 mailles, vous avez 1 maille endroit (= m jersey). Bon tricot!

31.01.2019 - 13:24

country flag Michelle wrote:

Bonjour , je suis arrivée à l'assemblage des manches , et je dois placer les 4 marqueurs, vous dites dans les explications de les mettre à la transition des manches au dos/devant, Dois je mettre le marqueurs plus sur la maille de transition de côté manche, ou côté dos/devant? et les diminutions du raglan doit se faire de chaque coté de ce marqueur, à combien de mailles du marqueur? merci :)

29.01.2019 - 12:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Michelle, les marqueurs sont placés entre les mailles des manches et du dos/devant. Vous diminuez ensuite à chaque marqueur comme indiqué sous DIMINUTIONS Raglan au début des explications. (ce paragraphe a été modifié pour être plus clair). Bon tricot!

29.01.2019 - 12:51

country flag Dominique wrote:

Bonjour, J\'ai résolu mon problème concernant le commencement du tricot, je suis maintenant rendu au commencement du diagramme et là, je suis perdue ! Si je le déchiffre correctement, je suis sensée tricoter deux rangs totalement à l\'envers, puis 2 rangs en côte 1/1 en m\'alignant sur les côtes du début du tricot. Et ainsi de suite... Mais si je regarde la photo, je n\'ai pas du tout l\'impression que ça correspond. Que dois-je faire ?

21.01.2019 - 08:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Dominique, après les côtes, vous continuez en point fantaisie (= M.1) avec les 3 m point mousse de chaque côté comme avant. en même temps, vous devez aligner les mailles endroit et les mailles envers de M.1 au-dessus des côtes, ainsi, si vous avez commencé les côtes par 1 m end, commencez M.1 par la 2ème m du diagramme et répétez au 1er rang: (1 m end, 1 m env), au 2ème rang (sur l'envers), tricotez toutes les mailles à l'envers. Bon tricot!

21.01.2019 - 12:58

country flag Dominique wrote:

Bonjour, A peine commencé le modèle DROPS 85-13, j'ai déjà un problème ! Il est écrit qu'il faut tricoter en côtes - jusque là, tout va bien - "avec 3 m lis au point mousse côté milieu devant" - là je ne comprends pas ! Ni "3 m lis" ni "côté milieu devant" . Merci de m'éclairer. Cordialement.

20.01.2019 - 15:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Dominique, on tricote le dos et les devants en une seule pièce en commençant par le milieu du devant = côté du droit, vu sur l'endroit jusqu'au milieu du devant = côté du devant gauche, vu sur l'endroit, vous allez tricoter ainsi: 3 m point mousse, *1 m end/1 m env*, répétez de *-* et terminez par 1 m end, 3 m point mousse. Bon tricot!

21.01.2019 - 11:12