DROPS Camelia/Jasmin
100% Wool
Discontinued
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DROPS 39-29

This pattern still doesn't have a name. Suggest one!

DROPS jumper and gloves in “Alpaca”, sleeveless jumper in “Ull-Flame” and crochet hat in “Alaska”.

DROPS 39-29
Materials:

JUMPER, size: S/M - M/L:
DROPS Alpaca, from Garnstudio
450-500 g colour no 501, grey
450-500 g colour no 100, off-white
DROPS circular and double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and 5 mm + double pointed needles size 4 mm for neck

GLOVES: size Medium
DROPS Alpacafrom Garnstudio.
100 g colour no 501, grey
DROPS double pointed needles size 3 mm

HAT, size S/M – M/L:
DROPS Alaska, from Garnstudio
150-150 g colour no 2, off-white
DROPS crochet hook size 5 mm

SLEEVELESS JUMPER, size S/M – M/L:
DROPS Ull-Flame, from Garnstudio
1100-1200 g colour number no 1, off-white
DROPS pointed needles 9 mm
DROPS buttons, 5 pcs

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpers Vests Accessories Striped Jumpers Open Front Vests Hats Gloves & Mittens Bucket Hats Gloves bottom up cable high neck sewn in sleeves stripes v-neck

UK
Ireland

DROPS Camelia/Jasmin
100% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Needles & Hooks

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

Knitting Tension: 18 x 22 sts on needle size 5 mm in pattern = 10 x 10 cm
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.
Garter st, in the round: K 1 round, P 1 round.
Moss st: first row: K1, P1. Second row: P over K and K over P. Repeat second row.
Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.
Pattern: *K 3 sts, 1 moss st*, repeat from *-*.
Stripes: *12 rounds off-white/grey (1 thread of each colour), 2 rounds with double thread off-white*, repeat from *-*.

Back and front piece: Knitted in the round with double thread Alpaca. Cast on 174-182 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with grey/off-white and work 4 rounds garter st, Change to needle size 5 mm and continue in stripe pattern (see above), at the same time inc 22-30 sts evenly on first round = 196-212 sts. Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 47-49 cm cast off 4 sts each side for armhole and now complete each piece separately.

Front piece: = 94-102 sts. Dec to shape the armhole on every other row: 2 sts 1-2 times, 1 st 2-3 times = 86-88 sts. When piece measures 66-68 cm cast off the middle 8-10 sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 3 sts twice, 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 1 time. Cast off remaining when piece measures approx 74-76 cm.

Back piece: = 94-102 sts. Dec to shape the armhole as described for front piece = 86-88 sts. When piece measures 72-74 cm cast off the middle 30-32 sts for neck and dec 2 sts on neckline on next row. Cast off remaining when piece measures approx 74-76 cm.

Sleeves: Cast on 36-40 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with grey/off-white and work 4 rounds garter st. Change to needle size 5 mm and continue in stripe pattern (see above), at the same time inc 6-2 sts evenly on round = 42-42 sts. At the same time after the garter st inc 2 sts mid under arm 27-27 times on every 3rd round = 96-96 sts.
When piece measures 45-45 cm cast off 6 sts mid under arm and complete sleeve back and forth on needle. Dec to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 5 sts 5 times. Cast off when piece measures 51 cm.

Assembly: Join shoulders. Pick up approx 120 sts round the neck on double pointed needles size 4 mm with grey/off-white, P 1 round and then 6 cm in Rib and stripe pattern, change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and continue in Rib and stripes until collar measures 12 cm. Cast off. Set in sleeves.

SLEEVELESS JUMPER:
Size S/M - M/L

Knitting Tension: 9 x 14 sts on needle size 9 mm in pattern = 10 x 10 cm
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.
Buttonhole: 1 buttonhole = cast of 3rd st from edge, cast on 1 new st on return row. Make buttonholes on right front piece when piece measures: 1-1, 13-13, 25-25, 37-37 and 49-49 cm.
Pattern, right front piece: Work 5 P sts in the following places: When piece measures 10-12 cm, work 5 P sts 14-14 sts from mid front. When piece measures 20-22 cm work 5 P sts 7-7 cm from mid front. When piece measures 39-40 cm work 5 P sts 16-16 cm from mid front. When piece measures 51-53 cm work 5 P sts 11-11 sts from armhole. When piece measures 66-68 cm work 5 P sts 4-4 sts from armhole.
Pattern, left front piece: Work 5 P sts in the following places: When piece measures 12-14 cm, work 5 P sts 24-24 sts from mid front. When piece measures 30-32 cm work 5 P sts 15-15 cm from mid front. When piece measures 40-42 cm work 5 P sts 8-8 cm from mid front. When piece measures 47-49 cm work 5 P sts 6-6 sts from armhole. When piece measures 69-71 cm work 5 P sts 5-5 sts from armhole.
Pattern, back piece: Work 5 P sts in the same places as right and left front pieces put together.

Right front piece: Cast on 33-35 sts (incl 1 edge st towards side) on needle size 9 mm. Work 4 rows garter st and continue in stocking st and pattern (see above) with 2 sts towards mid front in garter st throughout (= front band). Remember buttonholes! When piece measures 40-42 cm work 4 rows garter st on the outermost 5-5 sts towards armhole. Piece now measures approx 42-44 cm. Cast off 3 sts for armhole and continue in stocking st and pattern with 2 sts towards armhole in garter st. Dec to shape the armhole inside the 2 garter sts on every other row: 1 st 3-4 times = 27-28 sts. When piece measures 50-50 cm dec to shape the neckline inside front band on every 3rd row: 1 st 11-12 times. At the same time when piece measures 69-71 cm dec to shape the shoulder towards neckline on every other row: 8 sts 2 times. All sts are now cast off, piece measures approx 72-74 cm.

Left front piece: Cast on and work like right front piece, but reversed and in pattern as described above.

Back piece: Cast on 60-64 sts (incl 1 edge each side) on needle size 9 mm. Work 4 rows garter st and continue in stocking st and pattern (see above). When piece measures 40-42 cm work 4 rows garter st on the outermost 5-5 sts towards armhole each side. Piece now measures approx 42-44 cm. Cast off 3 sts for armhole each side and continue in stocking st and pattern with 2 sts towards armhole in garter st. Dec to shape the armhole inside the 2 garter sts each side on every other row: 1 st 3-4 times = 48-50 sts. When piece measures 68-70 work 4 rows garter st on the middle 20-22 sts. At the same dec to shape the shoulder towards neckline as described for front piece. At the same time when piece measures 70-72 cm cast off the middle 16-18 sts for neck and work 2 sts towards neckline in garter sts until finished measurements. All sts are now cast off, piece measures approx 72-74 cm.

Assembly: Join shoulders and sew side seams. Sew on buttons.

GLOVES:
Size: Medium

Knitting Tension: 24 sts x 30 rows on needle size 3 mm in Rib = 10 x 10 cm
Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.
Pattern: See diagram, diagram is seen from RS.

Right glove: Cast on 83 sts on double pointed needle size 3 mm and work pattern as follows: 18 sts Rib (beg round with P2 and insert a MT between these 2 sts), M.1 (= mid upper hand), 52 sts Rib (beg and finish with P2). When piece measures 24 cm dec 24 sts evenly on round (do not dec in M.1) = 59 sts. Continue with Rib on either side of M.1 (beg with P2). Now measure piece from here! When piece measures 2 cm continue for thumb as follows: inc 1 st on both sides of MT and inc 1 st on both sides of these 2 sts on every other round 6 times = 14 sts for thumb (incorporate the inc sts in Rib as you go along). Now put the 14 sts + 1 st either side = 16 sts on a thread and cast on 2 new sts behind these 16 sts = 59 sts on round. When piece measures 11 cm inc 1 st on M.1 = 60 sts, at the same time continue in Rib on all sts (finish M.1). Work next round as follows: work the 2 sts cast on over 16 sts on thread, work 21 sts, put 13 sts on thread for little finger, cast on 1 new st and work the remaining 24 sts. Work 4 rounds on these 48 sts. Now put the new st and 16 sts on either side of this on a thread. Continue for fingers as follows:

Index finger: Work 15 sts and cast on 1 new st = 16 sts. Work 4 cm, cast off.

Middle finger: Work 8 sts from under hand and cast on 1 new st, work 8 sts from upper hand and cast on 3 sts towards index finger = 20 sts. Work 4 cm, cast off.

Ring finger: Work 17 sts and cast on 3 new sts towards middle finger = 20 sts. Work 4 cm, cast off.

Little finger: Pick up 13 sts from thread and cast on 3 new sts towards ring finger = 16 sts. Work 4 cm, cast off.

Thumb: Pick up 16 sts from thread and cast on 4 new sts behind these = 20 sts. Work 5 rounds, cast off.

Left glove: Like right glove, but reversed. Inc for thumb at the end of second needle. Work little finger as follows: work 24 sts, put 13 sts on thread, cast on 1 new st and work 21 sts + the 2 inc sts over thumb.

HAT:
Size: S/M-M/L
To fit head circumference: 50-52 cm

Crochet Tension: 12 dc x 12 rows on crochet hook size 5 mm= 10 x 10 cm
Crochet tip: Beg all rounds with a sl st to replace first dc and finish all rounds with a sl st.

Crochet 4 ch and from a ring with a sl st.
Round 1: 6 dc in ring.
Round 2: 2 dc in each dc = 12 dc
Round 3: *2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* = 6 inc = 18 dc
Round 4: *2 dc in first dc, 2 dc*, repeat from *-* = 24 dc
Now continue to inc like this with 1 extra dc in between each inc on every round until piece measures 6-8 cm from the centre. Now inc in the same way on every other round until piece measures 9-11 cm from the centre. Continue without inc until piece measures 17-19 cm and now dec 10 dc evenly on round (dec by skipping 1 dc). Crochet 2 rounds with 1 dc in each dc and continue for brim as follows: *2 dc, 2 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-*. Crochet 3 rounds without inc and crochet next round as follows: inc 1 dc in every 3 dc. Crochet 8 rounds without inc, finish last round with a sl st in dc and cut thread.

Diagram

	= K
	= P
	= slip 2 sts on a cable needle behind work, K2, K2 from cable needle.
	= slip 2 sts on a cable needle in front of work, K2, K2 from cable needle.

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!