DROPS 39-25
CHILD:
Size: 2 – 3/4 - 5/6 (7/8 – 9/10 – 11/12) years
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 80-86-92 (98-104-108) cm = 31½"-33⅞"-36¼" (38½"-41"-42½")
Full length: 38-40-43 (47-49-51) cm = 15"-15¾"-17" (18½"-19¼"-20")

All measurements in charts are in cm.

Materials: DROPS Handspun Alpaca, from Garnstudio
Girl:
200-200-200 (300-300-300) g color no 603, yellow
100-100-200 (200-200-200) g color no 601, beige
100-100-100 (200-200-200) g color no 609, red
100-100-100 (100-200-200) g color no 615, navy blue
100-100-100 (100-100-100) g color no 611, olive
100-100-100 (100-100-200) g color no 612, blue
100-100-100 (100-100-100) g color no 100, off-white
100-100-100 (100-100-100) g color no 610 mint
Boy:
200-200-200 (300-300-300) g color no 610, mint
100-100-200 (200-200-200) g color no 615, navy blue
100-100-100 (200-200-200) g color no 612, blue
100-100-100 (100-200-200) g color no 618, purple
100-100-100 (100-100-100) g color no 611, olive
100-100-200 (100-100-200) g color no 613, bright blue
100-100-200 (100-100-100) g color no 100, off-white
100-100-100 (100-100-100) g color no 601, beige

DROPS pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8, circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 for pockets
DROPS crochet hook size 5 mm = US H/8
DROPS buttons, 5 pcs

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting Gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows on needle size 5 mm = US 8 in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4"

Buttonhole: Make 5 buttonholes on right front piece when piece measures: 1-1-1 (1-1-1) cm = ⅜"-⅜"-⅜" (3/8"-⅜"), 8.5-9-9.5 (10-11-11) cm = 3¼"-3½"-3¾" (4"-4⅜"-4⅜"), 16-16.5-18 (19-20.5-21) cm = 6¼"-6½"-7" (7½"-8⅛"-8¼"), 23.5-24-26.5 (28.5-30-31.5) cm = 9¼"-9½"-10¼" (11⅛"-11¾"-12⅜") and 31-32-35 (38-40-42) cm = 12¼"-12½"-13¾" (15"-15¾"-16½"). 1 buttonhole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from edge, make a yo and work you as a st on return row.

Pockets: Cast on 16-16-16 (18-18-18) sts on needle size 5 mm = US 8 with navy blue and work 8-8-8 (9-9-10) cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛" (3½"-3½"-4") stockinette st back and forth on needle. Put sts on a thread, make 2.

Pattern: The diagram shows the pattern from the RS side. The entire pattern is worked in stockinette st.
M.4 and M.1:
Bakstk 24 sts = back piece 24 sts
Forstk, erme 38 sts = front piece, sleeve 38 sts
M.3:
Bakstk, forstk, erme 38 sts = back piece, front piece, sleeve 38 sts
Start erme = beg sleeve
Start bol = beg body piece

Back piece: Colors mentioned are for the girl’s version. For a boy, please see above under Materials. Cast on 68-74-78 (84-88-92) sts on needle size 5 mm = US 8 with olive and work stockinette st. When piece measures 0.5-1-.2.5 (3.5-3.5-5.5) cm = ⅛"-⅜"-⅞" (1¼"-1¼"-2⅛") work next row as follows: 1-3-5 (7-8-10) sts in the same color as first st in M.3, M.3 (=38 sts), M.1 (= 24 sts), 5-9-11 (15-18-20) sts in the same color as last st in M.1. After M.1 and M.3 work 0-0.5-1 (2-2-3) cm = 0"-⅛"-⅜" (3/4"-¾"-1⅛") yellow (piece now measures approx 25-26-29 (30-32-33) cm = 9¾"-10¼"-11⅜" (11¾"-12½"-13"). Work next row as follows: 1-3-5 (7-8-10) sts in the same color as first st in M.4, M.4 (= 24 sts), M.2 (= 38 sts), 5-9-11 (15-18-20) sts in the same color as the last st M.2. After M.2 and M.4 complete piece in red. When piece measures 36-38-41 (45-47-49) cm = 14¼"-15"-16⅛" (17¾"-18½"-19¼") bind off the middle 20-22-24 (24-24-26) sts for neck and dec 2 sts on neckline on next row. Cast of remaining sts on shoulder when piece measures 38-40-43 (47-49-51) cm = 15"-15¾"-17" (18½"-19¼"-20").

Right front piece: Cast on 38-41-43 (46-48-50) sts on needle size 5 mm = US 8 with olive and work stockinette st with 1 st towards mid front in garter st. Remember buttonholes! When piece measures 0.5-1-.2.5 (3.5-3.5-5.5) cm = ⅛"-⅜"-⅞" (1¼"-1¼"-2⅛") work next row as follows from mid front: 0-1-2 (4-5-6) sts in the same color as first st in M.1, M.1 (beg by arrow =38 sts), 0-2-3 (4-5-6) sts in the same color as last st in M.1. At the same time after 20 rows of M.1 bind off for pocket as follows (from mid front): work 10-10-12 (12-12-14) sts, cast of 16-16-16 (18-18-18) sts, work 12-15-15 (16-18-18) sts. On return row put pockets in on needle over opening. After M.1 work 0-0.5-1 (2-2-3) cm = 0"-⅛"-⅜" (3/4"-¾"-1⅛") yellow (piece now measures approx 25-26-29 (30-32-33) cm = 9¾"-10¼"-11⅜" (11¾"-12½"-13")). Work next row as follows from mid front: 0-1-2 (4-5-6) sts in the same color as first st in M.2, M.2 (beg by arrow = 38 sts), 0-2-3 (4-5-6) sts in the same color as last st in M.2. After M.2 complete piece in red. When piece measures 32-33-36 (39-41-43) cm = 12½"-13"-14¼" (15¼"-16⅛"-17") dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 7-8-9 (9-9-10) sts 1 time, 2 sts 4 times, 1 st 1 time. Cast of remaining sts on shoulder when piece measures 38-40-43 (47-49-51) cm = 15"-15¾"-17" (18½"-19¼"-20").

Left front piece: Cast on and work as right front piece, but without buttonholes. Work pattern as follows: M.3 instead of M.1, M.4 instead of M.2.

Read all of the following section before knitting it!
Right sleeve: Cast on 30-30-34 (34-38-38) sts on needle size 5 mm = US 8 with olive and work pattern as follows (make sure to place a pattern repeat mid upper sleeve): M.3, but use olive instead of blue and blue instead of navy blue. After M.3 piece measures approx 21 cm = 8¼". Continue as follows:
Size 2 – 3/4 - 5/6: M.6 - make sure to place a pattern repeat mid upper sleeve – work sts to the right of pattern in the same color as the first st in pattern, work sts to the left of pattern in the same color as the last st in pattern. After M.6 complete sleeve in red.
Size 7/8 – 9/10 – 11/12: M.6 - make sure to place a pattern repeat mid upper sleeve – work sts to the right of pattern in the same color as the first st in pattern, work sts to the left of pattern in the same color as the last st in pattern (this applies to M.7 as well). After M.6, work M.7 and then complete sleeve in red.
At the same time after the first row inc1 st each side 16-17-17 (19-18-20) times as follows:
Size 2 + 3/4 years: on every other and 3rd row alternately
Size + 5/6 + 7/8 years: on 3rd round
Size 9/10 years + 11/12 years: on every 3rd and 4th round alternately
Incorporate the inc sts in pattern as you go along. When you’ve inc 38 sts work st to the right of pattern in the same color as the first st in pattern and the last st in the same color as the last st in pattern = 62-64-68 (72-74-78) sts. Bind off when sleeve measures 22-22-25 (29-32-36) cm = 8¾"-8¾"-9¾" (11⅜"-12½"-14¼").

Left sleeve: Cast on work as right sleeve, but work M.1 instead of M.3 and M.5 instead of M.7.

Assembly: Join shoulders and sew side seams = 20-21-23 (26-27-28) cm = 8"-8¼"-9" (10¼"-10⅝"-11"). The remaining 18-19-20 (21-22-23) cm = 7"-7½"-8" (8¼"-8¾"-9") = armhole. Sew sleeve seam and set in sleeves.
Crochet border: Crochet with double thread in beige on crochet hook size 5 mm = US H/8 from RS: 1 row of sc along bottom edge, along front edges and round neck as follows: 80-100 sc along bottom edge, 32-42 sc along each front piece, 26-32 sc round neck. Crochet next row from RS as follows: *pick up thread through sc from previous row, pull approx 2 cm = ¾" long, turn crochet hook 360 degrees anti clockwise, pull thread through* , repeat from *-*. Repeat both rows round sleeve edges with approx 20 sc and along pocket edge with approx 14 sc.
Fasten pockets on WS. Sew on buttons.
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LADIES JACKET:
Size S – M – L
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 118 (122-128) cm = 46½" (48"-50⅜")
Full length: 57 (59-59) cm = 22½" (23¼"-23¼")

All measurements in charts are in cm.

Materials: DROPS Handspun Alpaca, from Garnstudio
400-400-400 g color no 603, yellow
300-400-400 g color no 609, red
200-200-200 g color no 615, navy blue
200-200-300 g color no 601, beige
100-100-100 g color no 611, olive
100-200-200 g color no 612, blue
100-100-100 g color no 100, off-white
100-100-100 g color no 610 mint

DROPS pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8, circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 for pockets
DROPS crochet hook size 5 mm = US H/8
DROPS buttons, 5 pcs

Knitting Gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows on needle size 5 mm = US 8 in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4"
Buttonhole: Make 5 buttonholes on right front piece when piece measures: 1-1-1 cm = ⅜"-⅜"-⅜", 13-13-13 cm = 5⅛"-5⅛"-5⅛", 24.5-25-25 cm = 9⅝"-9¾"-9¾", 36.5-37.5-37.5 cm = 14⅜"-14¾"-14¾" and 48-50-50 cm = 19"-19¾"-19¾". 1 buttonhole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from edge, cast on 1 st on return row.
Pockets: Cast on 28 sts on needle size 5 mm = US 8 with navy blue and work 11 cm = 4⅜" stockinette st back and forth on needle. Put sts on a thread, make 2.
Pattern: The diagram shows the pattern from the RS side. The entire pattern is worked in stockinette st.
M.4 and M.1:
Bakstk 24 sts = back piece 24 sts
Forstk, erme 38 sts = front piece, sleeve 38 sts
M.3:
Bakstk, forstk, erme 38 sts = back piece, front piece, sleeve 38 sts
Start erme = beg sleeve
Start bol = beg body piece

Right front piece: Cast on 54-56-58 sts on needle size 5 mm = US 8 with olive and work stockinette st. Remember buttonholes! When piece measures 3 cm = 1⅛" work M.1 – beg 2 sts in from mid front (work st to the right of pattern in the same color as first st in pattern, and the st to the left of pattern in the same color as the last st in pattern – applies to all patterns). After M.1 work 3 cm = 1⅛" blue, then M.2 (beg 1 st in from mid front), 3 cm = 1⅛" navy blue, at the same time after 1 cm = ⅜" navy blue bind off for pocket as follows (from mid front): work 15-16-17 sts, cast of 28 sts, work 11-12-13 sts. On return row put pockets in on needle over opening. After 3 cm = 1⅛" navy blue work M.3 (beg mid front), work 7 cm = 2¾" yellow (piece now measures approx 36-38-38 cm = 14¼"-15"-15"), M.4 (beg 20 sts from mid front), 4 cm = 1½" red, M.5 (beg 9 sts from mid front) and now complete piece in red. When piece measures 49-51-51 cm = 19¼"-20"-20" dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 10-10-12 sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 4 times. Cast of remaining sts on shoulder when piece measures 57-59-59 cm = 22½"-23¼"-23¼".

Left front piece: Cast on and work as right front piece, but without buttonholes. Work pattern as follows: 3 cm = 1⅛" olive, M.6 (beg 17-19-21 sts from side) - work st to the right of pattern in the same color as first st in pattern, and the st to the left of pattern in the same color as the last st in pattern – then 3 cm = 1⅛" blue, M.7 (beg 12-14-16 sts from side), 3 cm = 1⅛" navy blue (bind off for pocket as described for right front piece), M.9 (beg 2-4-5 cm = ¾"-1½"-2" from side), continue in yellow until piece measures 38-41-41 cm = 15"-16⅛"-16⅛", M.8 (beg 16-18-19 sts from side), complete piece in red.

Back piece: Cast on 100-104-108 sts on needle size 5 mm = US 8 with olive and work stockinette st. When piece measures 3 cm = 1⅛" work M.1 – beg 35 sts from side (work st to the right of pattern in the same color as first st in pattern, and the st to the left of pattern in the same color as the last st in pattern – applies to all patterns). After M.1 work 3 cm = 1⅛" blue, then M.2 (beg 25 sts from side), 3 cm = 1⅛" navy blue, M.9 (beg 2 sts from side) – at the same time as M.9, work the boat from M.3 on the middle 48 sts (boat will overlap M.9), work yellow until piece measures 36-38-38 cm = 14¼"-15"-15", M.4 (beg 75-80-80 sts from side), M.10 (beg 14 sts from side) – at the same time as row 8 in M.10 work M.5 (beg 48 sts from side). Now complete piece in red. When piece measures 55-57-57 cm = 21⅝"-22½"-22½" bind off the middle 30-30-34 sts for neck and dec 2 sts on neckline on next row. Cast of remaining sts on shoulder when piece measures 57-59-59 cm = 22½"-23¼"-23¼".

Read all of the following section before knitting it!
Right sleeve: Cast on 44-44-46 sts on needle size 5 mm = US 8 with olive and work pattern as follows (make sure to place a pattern repeat mid upper sleeve): 4 cm = 1½" olive, M.1 (work st to the right of pattern in the same color as first st in pattern, and the st to the left of pattern in the same color as the last st in pattern – applies to all patterns), 5 cm = 2" blue, M.9 but use blue instead of navy blue. Continue in yellow until piece measures 34 cm = 13⅜". Work M.8 and now complete piece in red. At the same time after the first row inc1 st each side 26-26-26 times on every other and 3rd row alternately. = 96-96-98 sts. Bind off when sleeve measures 44 cm = 17¼".

Left sleeve: Cast on work as right sleeve, but work M.3 instead of M.9.

Assembly: Join shoulders and sew side seams = 29-31-30 cm = 11⅜"-12¼"-11¾". The remaining 28-28-29 cm = 11"-11"-11⅜" = armhole. Sew sleeve seam and set in sleeves.
Crochet border: Crochet with double thread in beige on crochet hook size 5 mm = US H/8 from RS: 1 row of sc along bottom edge, along front edges and round neck as follows: 120 sc along bottom edge, 55 sc along each front piece, 50 sc round neck. Crochet next row from RS as follows: *pick up thread through sc from previous row, pull approx 2 cm = ¾" long, turn crochet hook 360 degrees anti clockwise, pull thread through* , repeat from *-*. Repeat both rows round sleeve edges with approx 25 sc and along pocket edge with approx 18 sc.
Fasten pockets on WS. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = yellow / mint (yellow - child)
symbols = beige / navy blue (beige - child)
symbols = red / blue (red - child)
symbols = navy blue / purple (navy blue - child)
symbols = olive / olive (olive - child)
symbols = blue / bright blue (blue - child)
symbols = off-white / off-white (off-white - child)
symbols = mint / beige (mint - child)
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (6)

country flag Barbara wrote:

Bitte mehr Motivpullover für Kinder! Danke :-)

27.03.2018 - 16:11

country flag Martina Kleier wrote:

Und ich brauche bitte auch das muster in original größe! vielen dank.

29.04.2017 - 15:09

country flag Martina wrote:

Hallo, würde gerne die kinderjacke stricken. braucht man wirklich für die kleinste größe von den nebenfarben auch je100g? oder gab es die originalwolle nur in 100g? könnte sie mir die mengen umgrechnet auf die nepal nennen? danke und gruß

29.04.2017 - 15:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Martina, so stimmen die Anleitungen. Hier können Sie die neue Menge kalkulieren. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.05.2017 - 09:36

country flag Titou61 wrote:

Oh quel dommage que le diagramme soit illisible, ce pull serait magnifique en Alaska ou Nepal !

29.01.2015 - 13:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Titou61, nous n'avons pas pu mettre le diagramme en plus grand sur le site, envoyez un mail à france@garnstudio.com nous pourrons vous les adresser, merci. Bon tricot!

30.01.2015 - 13:45

country flag AH wrote:

This is such a great pattern. Please translate this into American English. Thank you.

15.07.2010 - 19:34

country flag Lepelletier wrote:

So many difficults to read the jacquards colors signs ! but it's a so nice comfortable jacket

24.01.2010 - 05:47