DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 47-14
Size: Ladies: S – M – L. Men: S/M – M/L

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
450-500-550 (600-700) g color no 53, charcoal gray
150-150-150 (150-200) g color no 44, light gray
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 21, gray
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 48, dark red
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 49, rust
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 36, green
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 05, black

DROPS circular and double pointed needles size 2.5 and 3.5 mm / US 1.5 and 4
DROPS clasps, Laila no 601, 3 pcs.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 21 sts x 28 rows on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 in pattern = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Edge: K 3 cm / 1'' stockinette sts, P 1 row (= folding edge, measure piece from here), K 3 cm / 1'' stockinette sts.

Pattern: See diagrams M1-M.5. 1 diagram = 1 repeat. The diagrams are showing all rows seen from the RS.

Back and front piece: The jumper is knitted round on circular needles and cut for armholes and neck split afterwards. Numbers in ( ) refer to men’s sizes.
Cast on 188-192-200 (200-208) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with charcoal gray and knit 6 cm / 2 3/8'' Rib. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work M.1, at the same time inc 52-60-64 (52-56) sts evenly on 1st row = 240-252-264 (252-264) sts. After M.1 continue in charcoal gray. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 22-26-28 (27-30) cm knit M.2. After M.2 continue in M.3. At the same time when piece measures 37-41-42 (41-43) cm inc 5 sts each side (to be cut for armholes afterwards and not included in pattern but knitted in stockinette sts).
When piece measures 44-48-50 (49-52) cm cast 12 sts mid front for split. On next row cast on 5 new sts over the bind off sts – these are to be cut for neck split afterwards and not included in pattern.
When piece measures 58-62-64 (63-67) cm bind off the middle 16-18-18 (18-18) sts + the 5 sts to be cut at front for neck and finish the piece back and forth on needle.
Bind off to shape the neckline each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1 times. At the same time when piece measures 59-63-65 (64-67) cm knit M.4.
At the same time when piece measures 62-66-68 (67-70) cm bind off the middle 36-38-38 (38-38) sts mid back for neck and dec 2 sts each side on next row.
Bind off after M.4, piece measures approx 64-68-70 (69-72) cm.

Sleeves: Cast on 48-48-52 (52-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with charcoal gray and knit 5 cm / 2'' Rib, inc 6-8-4 (4-2) sts evenly on the last round = 54-56-56 (56-58) sts.
Change to needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work M.1. After M.1 continue in charcoal gray.
At the same time, after the Rib inc 2 sts mid under arm 30-29-31 (31-32) times as follows: Ladies size S + L: alternate between 3rd and 4th round, Ladies size M and Men’s size S/M + M/L: every 4th round = 114-114-118 (118-122) sts.
At the same time when piece measures 37-37-36 (42-42) cm knit M.2. After M.2 knit M.5. After M.5 piece measures 49-49-48 (54-54) cm. Now knit 2 cm / 3/4'' in reverse stockinette sts = edge for sewing on sleeve to body pieces.
Bind off and knit the other sleeve.

Assembly: Insert a marking thread in the middle of the inc sts for armhole each side and mid front of body piece. Make 2 seams each side and mid front on your sewing machine, the first seam ½ st from the marking thread and the other one ½ st from the first one. Cut the piece between these. Sew shoulder seams.
Edge round the front split: Pick up approx 30 sts along the left side of neck split on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with charcoal gray and knit Edge – see above. Repeat along the right side. Fold edges towards the WS and attach. Sew the edges at bottom from RS with neat mattress sts.
Neckline: Pick up approx 106-116 sts round the neck on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with charcoal gray and knit 2.5 cm / 1'' stockinette sts, change to dark red and knit 1 row in stockinette sts and P 1 row (= folding edge).
Change back to charcoal gray and knit 2.5 cm / 1'' in stockinette sts. Bind off. Fold the edge double towards the WS and attach.
Set in sleeves from the RS as follows: sew in the last row before the edge in reverse stockinette sts on sleeves to the first row after the seam in the sts for cutting on body pieces.
Turn the jumper inside out and sew the piece in stockinette sts over the cutting edge on body pieces. Sew on clasps.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = charcoal gray
symbols = light gray
symbols = gray
symbols = dark red
symbols = rust
symbols = green
symbols = black
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 47-14

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Jenny Mullenders wrote:

Hallo ik voor het minderen bij de halssplit na M3 18 steken aan weerszijden + de 5 open te knippen steken minderen dus 18 - 5 - 18 of 9-5-9 steken? alvast bedankt

20.02.2023 - 21:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jenny,

Je kant 18 + 5 steken af, dus in totaal kant je 23 steken af.

22.02.2023 - 13:11

country flag Gisella Werner wrote:

Hej, jag är i slutet på bålen och rad 11 i M.3, men har fastnat på denna del: "Det stickas nu fram och tillbaka på st." Innebär det att jag ska sticka rad 11 från vänster sida (mitt arbete börjar där) fram till halssprundet, vända på arbetet till avigsida, sticka rad 12 tillbaka till vänstersida, från vänster sida runt hela arbetet i rad 11 och sedan vända igen till rätsida och sticka rad 12 osv? Tacksam för svar :) Mvh Gisella

31.01.2023 - 12:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gisella, når du har felt de midterste masker foran til hals, strikker du fra midt foran og hele vejen rundt til den anden side af midt foran. Således strikker du nu frem og tilbage fra midt foran :)

31.01.2023 - 15:16

country flag Maria H wrote:

En välskriven beskrivning som är lätt att följa. För ett moderna snitt hade jag nog gjort om resårerna så att de inte är så tajta; kanske ökat på med minst tio maskor på resåren på ärmarna och minst tjugo på själva tröjans resår.

05.01.2023 - 22:03

country flag Lisbeth Gelin wrote:

Vad är måtten på Laila hake 601? hittar den inte på garnstudion eller någon annan stans. Ser att flertalet hakor att köpa varierar mellan 40 och 60 mm.

22.06.2022 - 12:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisbeth, Laila är (var) den på 40 mm :)

22.06.2022 - 13:42

country flag Edna Møller Kaspersen wrote:

Hej jeg synes ikke diagram symboler og diagram passer sammen der mangler et symbol for den sort firkant i diagrammet. eller er det bare mig? hilsen Edna

18.12.2021 - 09:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Edna. Sort fyrkant är symbol nr 2 i förklaringen; lys grå. Mvh DROPS Design

20.12.2021 - 08:54

country flag Carina wrote:

Hej För er information så ser inte färg grön 36 och rost 49 ut att säljas längre. Haken fick jag inte heller tag i, om det är så att ni vill uppdatera mönstret. Beskriv gärna vilken längd på rundstickande som behövs i mönstret. Hälsningar Carina

31.08.2020 - 08:18

country flag Manon Gaudet wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas car j’ai fait imprimer la grille il y a de ça 4 mois et la section M3 ne correspond plus, le 9iem rang, 7ième maille le carré ne devrait-il pas être noir? Merci

04.07.2020 - 16:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gaudet, les diagrammes ont été refaits pour qu'ils soient plus clairs, mais il manque effectivement un carré noir au rang indiqué, il va être ajouté le plus rapidement possible, merci pour votre retour! Bon tricot!

06.07.2020 - 09:41

country flag Anne-Marie Guinet wrote:

Pour les explications en français, dans la partie dos/devant, il manque un petit paragraphe: Je propose : "EN MÊME TEMPS, à 59-63-65 (64-67) cm de hauteur totale tricoter M.4. Quand la hauteur atteint 62-66-68 (67-70) cm, rabattre pour l'encolure dos les 36-38-38 (38-38) m centrales puis 2 m côté encolure au rang suivant. " Merci pour ces superbes modèles, cordialement

28.02.2019 - 17:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Guinet, merci pour votre retour, la partie manquante a été rajoutée. Bon tricot!

01.03.2019 - 10:33

country flag Gro Lunaas wrote:

Jeg har kjøpt garn til herregenser nr 47-14, men fant ikke nr 49 rust og 36 grønn da jeg bestilte garn. Da jeg oppsøkte nærmeste Dropsgarn-forhandler kunne de heller ikke finne disse fargene. Fikk så beskjed om at disse fargene sannsynlig var gått ut. Fant heller ikke alternativ. Føler meg litt snytt, disse fargene er med på å sette særpreg til genseren. Har disse fargene utgått? Noe forslag til alternativ?? Vh gro

01.11.2018 - 08:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gro. Dette er en eldre modell så dessverre fører vi ikke lenger de samme fargene som da denne ble skrevet. Om du vil ha farger som ligner mest mulig kan du bytte 49 rust med 11 orange (denne er en ganske mørk orange), og 36 grønn kan du bytte mot 60 blå turkis eller 73 petrol avhengig av hvor mørk du vil ha den. God fornøyelse.

05.11.2018 - 08:37

country flag Henny Van Der Leer wrote:

Ik wil dit patroon niet met een rond breinaald breien maar gewoon met 2 naalden; kan dat en hoe kan ik dan het patroon het beste aanpassen? Zijn er patronen van noorse truien zonder rond breinaalden gebreid?

27.12.2014 - 16:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Henny. De meeste traditionele Noorse truien zijn in de rondte gebreid met steeks (openknippen). Je kan het opsplitsen in voor en achterpand, en 1 st opzetten aan beide zijkanten voor de naad. Brei de mouwen heen en weer ook met 1 kantst aan beide zijkanten. Maar het is veel makkelijker om in de rondte te breien (vooral bij het breien van fair-isle - patroon van meerdere kleuren). Veel breiplezier.

05.01.2015 - 15:23