DROPS Baby / 14 / 18

DROPS Baby 14-18 by DROPS Design

Rukavice – palčáky s copánkovým vzorem pletené z příze DROPS Alpaca. Velikosti pro miminka i děti, od 1 měsíce do 4 let.

DROPS design: model č.
Skupina přízí: A
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Velikost: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 měsíců (2/3 roky)
Velikost v cm: 50/56-62/68-74/80 (92/98)

Materiál: DROPS ALPACA firmy Garnstudio
50 g pro všechny velikosti, barva č. 7120, světlá šedozelená

DROPS PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE č.2,5 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 26 ok x 34 řad lícovým žerzejem dvojitou přízí = 10 x 10 cm.

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100% alpaka
od 71.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 71.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 75.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
Jehlice a háčky
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 71Kč. Více zde.

Návod

VZOR:
Viz schéma M.3; vzor je nahlížen z lícové strany.

VROUBKOVÝ VZOR:
Pleteme střídavě 1 kruhovou řadu hladce, 1 obrace.
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RUKAVICE:

2 větší velikosti pleteme s palcem, 2 menší bez palce. Rukavice pleteme v kruhových řadách na ponožkových jehlicích.
Na ponožkové jehlice č.2,5 volně nahodíme přízí Alpaca 34-36-36 (38) ok a pleteme vroubkovým vzorem – viz výše – do výše 2 cm. Pak upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu vroubkovým vzorem a SOUČASNĚ ujmeme rovnoměrně 6-4-4 (2) oka = 28-32-32 (36) ok. Pleteme pružným vzorem 2/2 (tj. střídáme 2 oka hladce, 2 obrace). Ve výši 4-4-5 (6) cm upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu vroubkovým vzorem a SOUČASNĚ přidáme rovnoměrně potřebný počet ok do celkových 32-36-39 (40) ok. Označíme si začátek kruhové řady a druhou značku vložíme za 16.-18.-18. (20.) oko (= boční strany rukavice).
NYNÍ MĚŘÍME PLETENINU OD TOHOTO MÍSTA!
Pleteme obrace a SOUČASNĚ pleteme nad prostředními 12 oky na horní straně rukavice (= hřbet ruky) vzor M.3 (prvních 16-18-18 (20) ok = hřbet ruky) – šipka ve schématu označuje střed.

2 větší velikosti:
SOUČASNĚ po upletení 1 (2) cm výšky vzorem odložíme posledních 5 (6) oka v kruhové řadě na pomocnou jehlici (= palec). V následující kruhové řadě nahodíme nad těmito odloženými oky 5 (6) ok nových.

Všechny velikosti:
Ve výši 6-7-8 (9) cm – končíme 1 nebo 2 řadami po copánkovém křížení – ujmeme rovnoměrně 8-9-9 (10) ok a toto ujímání opakujeme v každé 2. kruhové řadě, celkem 3x = zbývá 8-9-9 (10) ok (ujímáme spletením 2 ok obrace). Přízi odstřihneme, zbylými oky protáhneme dvojitou přízí Alpaca, stáhneme a zapošijeme.

PALEC:
Odložených 5 (6) ok vrátíme z pomocné jehlice zpět na ponožkové jehlice č.2,5 a za nimi nabereme ještě 7 (8) ok z okraje rukavice = na jehlicích máme 12 (14) ok. Upleteme obrace 3 (4) cm výšky. Pak spleteme každá 2 oka hladce. Přízi odstřihneme, protáhneme zbylými oky, stáhneme a zapošijeme.
Obdobně upleteme druhou rukavici, jen palec leží na protější straně (platí u 2 větších velikostí).

ŠŇŮRKA:
Na jehlice č.2,5 nahodíme přízí Alpaca 4 oka a pleteme dutinku: *1 oko hladce, přízi dáme před práci, 1 oko sejmeme obrace, přízi vrátíme za práci*, *-* opakujeme ve všech řadách. Jakmile dutinka měří asi 62-67-74 (86-96) cm (délka mezi oběma zápěstími), všechna oka uzavřeme a šňůrku přišijeme k rukavicím.

Schéma

= lícový žerzej (líc hladce, rub obrace)
= rubový žerzej (líc obrace, rub hladce)
= 2 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici ZA práci, 2 oka hladce, 2 oka z pom.jehlice hladce

Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS Baby 14-18) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

Máme takopodrobné rozpisy různých technik a postupů krok za krokem - najdete je zde.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

nahoru

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

nahoru

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

nahoru

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

nahoru

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

nahoru

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

nahoru

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

nahoru

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

nahoru

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

nahoru

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

nahoru

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

nahoru

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

nahoru

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
Pořád se nemůžete dobrat odpovědi, kterou hledáte? Pak posuňte stránku dolů a napište nám svůj dotaz, naši specialisté se vám pokusí poradit. Obvykle to zvládneme během 5 až 10 pracovních dnů.. Mezitím si můžete pročíst otázky a odpovědi, které k tomuto modelu položili ostatní, nebo navštívit skupinu DROPS Workshop na Facebooku, kde vám může poradit některá spřízněná duše!

Komentáře / Otázky (14)

Lisa 18.10.2019 - 12:11:

Hej! Jag undrar hur jag fortskrider med mönsterstickningen när jag ska börja minska maskor i vanten? Det står minska maskor jämnt fördelat vartannat varv, vad sker då med mönstret? Tack på förhand!

DROPS Design 21.10.2019 kl. 10:34:

Hei Lisa. Du feller ved å strikke 2 vrang masker sammen, mønstret/flettene strikke du som vanlig. God Fornøyelse!

Johanna 28.01.2019 - 17:26:

In M3 sollen einmal linke auf linke und einmal linke auf rechte Maschen gestrickt werden. Zuvor wurde aber eine ganze Runde rechts gestrickt um 4 Maschen zuzunehmen. Meinen Sie dann diese rechte Runde oder die vom Rippenmuster darunter? Wenn die vom Rippenmuster darunter gemeint ist, werden dann die 4 zugenommenen Maschen als rechte oder als linke Maschen behandelt?

DROPS Design 29.01.2019 kl. 08:39:

Liebe Johann, Sie stricken 1 Runde rechts mit Zunahmen regelmäßig verteilt, dann stricken Sie alle Maschen llinks mit M.3 über die mittleren 12 Maschen - die Zunahmen der vorrigen Runde werden dann entweder links oder rechts gestrickt, wie sie bei der nächsten Runde entweder links ausser Diagram under in der Mitte vom Diagram oder rechts für die Zöpfe gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Nathalie 31.10.2017 - 21:34:

Aussi , je ne comprends pas bien sur le croquis on voit la moufle qui a environ 6 torsades alors que j'arrive à seulement 3 torsades en arrivant à 8 cm. de longueur totale( grandeur (12/18mois) , donc je me demande si c'est bien la mesure totale de la moufle que l'on doit considérer ou 8 cm de point fantaisie(M3), merci .

DROPS Design 01.11.2017 kl. 08:50:

Bonjour Nathalie, les 8 cm s'entendent en hauteur du point fantaisie (des torsades) et pas de puis le montage. Bon tricot!

Nathalie 31.10.2017 - 17:11:

Bonjour, pour le premier 2 cm j'ai tricoté souplement vu que le montage des mailles est fait ainsi, pour la suite est-ce que le tricot l'est aussi ou on doit tricoter plus serrer ?

DROPS Design 01.11.2017 kl. 08:39:

Bonjour Nathalie, seul le montage doit être souple (pour pouvoir passer la main de l'enfant facilement), tricotez ensuite en suivant la même tension que pour l'échantillon. Bon tricot!

Janne Berg 07.02.2017 - 19:07:

Oppgitt mål ved felling, må jo være målt fra der vrangborden slutter og flettemønsteret begynner, ikke fra vottens begynnelse.

DROPS Design 08.02.2017 kl. 14:04:

Hej Janne. Ja, det staar der jo ogsaa i opskriften: Når arb måler 4-4-5 (6) cm strikkes det 1 omg rett samtidig som det økes jevnt fordelt til 32-36-36 (40) m - sett 1 merketråd på beg av omg og etter 16-18-18 (20) m - herfra måles arb videre!

Lene Burchardi 30.11.2015 - 16:39:

I forhold til ret og vrang: Man starter med 2 cm retstrik, men jeg kan se på billedet at vanten starter med en vrang-bort. Strikker man dem på vrangen'? I linje 2 står der da også 'Se forkl.over' - men jeg kan ikke finde nogen forklaring. Kan I hjælpe? For hvis hele vanten strikkes fra vrangsiden og så vendes til sidst, så skal snoningerne vel ske ved vrangsiden -- men som sagt. Jeg savner den forklaring, I henviser til.

DROPS Design 01.12.2015 kl. 10:44:

Hej Lene, Hvis du ser på billedet igen, så kan du se at de første 2 cm består af retstrik (retriller) når du strikker dem rundt, strikker du hver 2.p ret og hver 2.p vrang (det er den første forklaring vi henviser til). Så strikker du en omg ret samtidig som du tager ind og bagefter strikker du rib (som består af 2r og 2 vr). Fortsæt ifølge opskriften (og ja du strikker rundt med retsiden ud). God fornøjelse!

Melinda 27.09.2015 - 09:44:

What do you mean by knit a round garter sts, after the first 2 cm, and decrease evenly? To P 1 round and to K 1 round to make a whole garter sts or only make 1 K or 1P round?

DROPS Design 28.09.2015 kl. 10:01:

Dear Melina, you should work 1 round K after the first 2 cm and again after the 4-4-5(6) cm. Pattern will be edited asap. Thank you. Happy knitting!

Marraine Caro 03.04.2015 - 13:11:

Un gros merci ! J'imagine que si je voudrais faire le pouce, je garderais les 6 mailles restantes du dessus de la main pour le créer au lieu de prendre le centre du 18 m.

DROPS Design 03.04.2015 kl. 17:49:

Bonjour Marraine Caro, pou le pouce, ce sont les 6 dernières m du tour (= les 6 m avant le marqueur du début du tour, soit avant les 18 m du dessus de la main) qui sont mises en attente - pour la 2ème moufle, on mettra en attente les 6 m après le 2ème marqueur (= 6 m après les 18 m du dessus de la main). Bon tricot!

Marraine Caro 03.04.2015 - 01:42:

J'ai augmenté à 39 m. Au moment de placer les marqueurs et de commencer le point fantaisie, Jai un blocage. Quelle partie est entre les marqueurs (18 m) ? Cest dans cette partie que je fais le point fantaisie ou dans les 21 m restantes que je dois tricoter à l'envers ? Quel est le dessus de la main. Merci de m'aider.

DROPS Design 03.04.2015 kl. 09:06:

Bonjour Marraine Caro, vous tricotez M3 en le centrant sur les 18 m du dessus de la main ainsi: début du tour, 3 m env, 12 m en M3, 3 m env, marqueur, 21 m env. Bon tricot!

Emma 14.09.2011 - 22:16:

Vilken mössbeskrivning är det som jag ska läsa för att kunna göra rätt vid vantens rätstickade början? Kanske en länk är på sin plats?

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