The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Baby Aviator Hat |
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Set of knitted helm hat, scarf and gloves for baby in DROPS Alpaca. Sizes from 1 month to 4 years.
DROPS Baby 14-16 |
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Tube knitting: *K1, put thread in front of piece, slip 1 st as if to purl, put thread behind piece*, repeat from *-* on all rows. This creates a round string. HAT: Cast on 33-38-42 (46-50) sts on needle size 2.5 mm [US 1]. Knit garter sts, at the same time inc 1 st at the right side and dec 1 st at the left side as follows: 1st row (=right side): K2, yo (= 1 inc), knit until there are 4 sts left on row and K2 tog, K2. 2nd row (=wrong side): Knit (knit yo into back of st). Repeat these two rows until piece measures 5.5-6-6.5 (7-8) cm [2,2"- 2,4"- 2,6" (2,75"-2,2")]. Now dec 1 st at the right side and inc 1 st at the left side as follows: Right side: K1, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, knit until there are 2 sts left, yo, K2 Wrong side: Knit (knit yo into back of st). Repeat these two rows until piece measures 11-12-13 (14-16) cm [4,4"- 4,75"- 5,2" (5½"-6,25")]. Continue to inc 1 st at the right side on every 4th row and dec 1 st at the left side on every other row until piece measures 15.5-16.5-17.5 (18-19) cm [6,1"- 6½"- 6,9" (7"-7½")]. Insert a marking thread each side. Continue as follows: Dec 1 st at the right side on every 4th row and inc 1 st at the left side on every other row until piece measures 20-21-22 (22-22) cm [8"- 8,25"- 8,75" (8,75"-8,75")]. Now dec 1 st at the left side on every other row and inc 1 st at the right side on every other row until piece measures 25.5-27-28.5 (29-30) cm [10"- 10,6"- 11,2" (11,4"-11,75")]. Dec 1 st at the right side on every other row and inc 1 st at the left side on every other row until finished measurements. = 31-33-35 (36-38) cm [12,25"- 13"- 13,75" (14,25"-15")]. Bind off. Assembly: Back of hat = the side of piece with 2 whole points and 2 half points. The middle of the 3 whole points on the other side of the hat = point sitting at the middle of the forehead. Sew seams together with small, neat sts as follows: Sew tog back of hat by sewing tog the first half point with the first half of the first whole point. Now sew tog the other half of the first whole point with the first half of the second whole point. Now sew tog the other half of the second whole point with the last half of point. Sew hat tog mid back. String: Cast on 4 sts on needle size 2.5 mm [US 1]. Knit tube as described above. bind off when tube measures approx 16-18-20 (22-24) cm [6,25"- 7"- 8" (8,75"-9½")]. Knit another tube and attach strings to each side of hat. ________________________________________ SCARF: Cast on 4 sts on needle size 2.5 mm [US 1] and knit garter sts, at the same time increasing as follows: Right side: Knit 2 sts in first st Left side: Knit 2 sts in last but one st. Inc on every other row a total of 10-11-12 (13-14) times = 24-26-28 (30-32) sts. Knit garter sts until piece measures 8-9-10 (11-12) cm [3,2"- 3½"- 4" (4,4"-4,75")]. Knit next row as follows: *K1, put 1 st on safety pin (or cable needle) behind the piece*, repeat from *-* until the end of row. There are now 12-13-14 (15-16) sts on row and 12-13-14 (15-15) sts on safety pin/cable needle. Knit 4-4-4 (5-5) cm [1½"- 1½"- 1½" (2"-2")] garter sts over sts on needle and put these on a new safety pin/cable needle. Put sts from the first safety pin/cable needle back on needle and knit garter sts over these until this piece is of the same length. Put the 2 pieces together again by knitting 1 st from needle and 1 st from safety pin/cable needle alternately until all sts are back on needle = 24-26-28 (30-32) sts. Knit garter sts until piece measures 40-42-46 (50-54) cm [15,75"- 16½"- 18" (19,75"-21,25")]. Continue in garter stitch at the same time as decreasing in each side by knitting the 2 second outermost sts together. Dec like this on every 2nd row until there are 4 sts left on needle. Bind off. The scarf measures approx 44-47-51 (55-60) cm [17,25"- 18½"- 20" (21,6"-23,6")]. ________________________________________ MITTENS: Garter sts (on circular needle): Knit 1st round, purl 2nd row. The 3 bigger sizes with thumbs, the 2 smaller sizes without. The mitten is knitted round on double pointed needles. Loosely cast on 34-36-38 (40-42) sts with Alpaca on needles size 2.5 mm [US 1] and knit 12 rounds garter sts – see explanation above – at the same time on the last round dec evenly to 28-30-32 (34-36) sts. Continue in Rib with K1/P1. When piece measures 3-3-3 (4-4) cm [1,1"- 1,1"- 1,1" (1½"-1½")] knit garter sts, at the same time on 1st round increasing evenly to 30-33-36 (39-42) sts – insert a marker and measure piece from here from now on. The 3 bigger sizes: After 1 (2-3) cm [0,4" (0,75"-1,1")], put the last 5 (5-6) sts on round on a thread for thumb. Cast on 5 (5-6) new sts over the thread on next row. All sizes: When piece measures 6-7-8 (9-10) cm [2,4"- 2,75"- 3,1" (3½"-4")] dec as follows on next knitted round: *K1, K2 tog*, repeat from *-* until the end of round = 20-22-24 (26-28) sts. *Purl 1 round, on next round knit tog all sts 2 and 2*, repeat from *-* 1 more time. Pull a double strand of Alpaca through remaining sts, pull tight and sew. Thumb: Put the 5 (5-6) sts from thread back on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm [US 1] and pick up 6 (6-7) sts behind these = 11 (11-13) sts. Knit garter sts until thumb measures 3 (4-5) cm [1,1" (1½"-2")]. Now knit all sts tog 2 and 2. Pull thread through remaining sts and sew. Knit another mitten, but knit the thumb the other side (applies to the 3 bigger sizes). String: Cast on 4 sts using Alpaca on needles size 2.5 mm [US 1] and knit a tube as follows: *K1, put thread in front of piece, slip 1 st as if to purl, put thread behind piece*, repeat from *-* on all rows until string measures approx 62-67-74 (86-96) cm [24"- 26"- 29" (34"-38")] (length between child’s wrists). Bind off and attach string to each mitten. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (155)
Rosemarie Krause wrote:
Hallo, habe nochmal genau gelesen, 4 Maschen müssen es sein. Der Schal ist bald fertig. BIs auf kleinere Schönheitsfehler ganz gut gelungen.
04.02.2016 - 15:25Krause, Rosemarie wrote:
Hallo, ich möchte den Baby-Schal Aviator stricken. Mit wie vielen Maschen beginne ich?
03.02.2016 - 15:12Malena wrote:
Jag har försökt mej på beskrivningen till mössan två gånger nu, och även andra gången blev resultatet ett stycke som inte alls stämmer överens med beskrivningen för montering i sista stycket. Vet någon om ett diagram för mössan? Det vore stor hjälp att se hurdan form stycket har då det är färdigstickat.
26.01.2016 - 22:59DROPS Design answered:
Hej. Om du ser lite längre ner här på frågor och svar om detta mönster så ligger det en video på hur du monterar mössan. (Du hittar den även om du klickar på fliken "videor" bredvid bilden på detta mönster.) Hoppas den kan vara till hjälp!
27.01.2016 - 09:10Julia wrote:
Hoi, na een aantal keer uithalen vraag ik nu toch maar om hulp... Het patroon gaat goed tot een hoogte van 11-12-13 (14-16) cm. Vanaf 11cm moet je een steek meerderen op de goede kant in elke vierde naald en in elke tweede naald een steek minderen. Maar de goede kant is toch in de oneven naalden?
17.12.2015 - 22:49DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Julia. Ja, dat is zo, maar je telt als volgt na de eerste nld aan de goede kant en meerderen/minderen (nld 0), dan 1 nld verkeerder (nld 1), 1 nld op de goede kant (nld 2) - hier minderen, 1 nld op de verkeerde ant (nld 3) en dan komt de vierde nld en op de goede kant en hier weer meerderen. Enzovoort
18.12.2015 - 15:42Ola wrote:
Witam, Mam pytanie odnośnie szalika . Po nabraniu 4 oczek jak mam dodawać oczka , na której stronie robótki? Proszę o podpowiedź.
18.11.2015 - 10:43DROPS Design answered:
Dodajemy po 1 o. (przerabiając 2 o. w 1 o.) na początku każdego rzędu na prawej stronie robótki i na pocz. każdego rzędu na lewej stronie robótki 10-11-12 (13-14) razy (wybrać właściwą liczbę powtórzeń w zależności od rozmiaru). Mam nadzieję, że teraz jest jaśniej. W razie czego proszę pisać. POWODZENIA!
19.11.2015 - 22:32Pipaluk wrote:
Mønstret består af 6 dele, første afsnit (5,5cm) går fint, men så kommer andet afsnit hvor man skal tage een løst af. Senere i opskriften kan jeg ikke se at man skal tage løst af igen? Men det burde man vel gøre, siden at man strikker tre afsnit til midten og så spejlvendt de sidste tre? Som jeg ser det burde man så ved femte afsnit også tage een maske løst af? På forhånd tak. Mvh Pipaluk
10.11.2015 - 14:01DROPS Design answered:
Hej Pipaluk, Jo du tager ud og ind på samme måde under hele opskriften, men vi beskriver det kun i detalje 1.gang. God fornøjelse!
26.11.2015 - 09:31Carol Woodward wrote:
The photo on the pattern doesn't seem to match the instructions, which have 3 points on the 'face' side. I haven't ended up with two long cheek sides as in the photo: there are 2 triangular points, like the one in the middle of the forehead but more acute. Do you attach the strings to these 2 points, or to the end corners, having only sewn a short way up the back seam. A simple plan of the end result, unsewn, would help. Yes, I have already watched the video.
16.10.2015 - 21:33DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Woodward, the back of hat is the side with 2 whole pointss and 2 half points whiletThe middle of the 3 whole points on the other side of the hat = point sitting at the middle of the forehead. This is a very popular pattern that has been made a lot of time successfully. Remember you can get any personnal and individual help from your DROPS store. Happy knitting!
17.10.2015 - 14:28Irène wrote:
Bonjour. Vous allez finir par me trouver pénible... Est-ce bien l'avant-dernière et la dernière maille qui sont tricotées ensemble à chaque rang ? ou l'avant-avant-dernière et l'avant-dernière ? Encore mille fois merci !
13.10.2015 - 14:35DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Irène, aucun souci :) ce sont bien les 2 avant-dernières mailles, soit 2 m ens à l'end juste avant la dernière m du rang. Bon tricot!
13.10.2015 - 14:59Irène wrote:
Euh pardon, je m'embrouille : 2 premières m et 2 dernières tricotées ensemble tous les 2 rangs !
12.10.2015 - 16:41Irène wrote:
Ne faudrait-il pas corriger aussi l'avant-dernière ligne ? "Ensuite, diminuer de chaque côté en tricotant ens les 2 dernières m tous les 2 rangs jusqu’à ce qu’il reste 4 m. Rabattre toutes les m." Si j'ai bien compris, on devra tricoter ensemble les 2 premières, et les 2 dernières m de chaque rang.
12.10.2015 - 16:39DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Irène, cette phrase était effectivement aussi erronée, il fallait lire de tricoter ens à l'end les 2 avant-dernières m à la fin de chaque rang (1 seul côté, à la fin de chaque rang, tous les rangs, on diminue ainsi de chaque côté) - correction faite. Merci. Bon tricot!
13.10.2015 - 09:32