DROPS Baby / 14 / 6

Little Fiona by DROPS Design

Kabátek s bezešvými rukávy a ponožky pletené vroubkovým vzorem z příze DROPS Alpaca. Velikosti pro miminka i děti, od 1 měsíce do 4 let.

DROPS design: model č.
Skupina přízí: A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Velikost: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 měsíců (2 – 3/4 roky)
Velikost v cm: 50/56 - 62/68 - 74/80 (86/92 – 98/104)

Materiál: DROPS ALPACA firmy Garnstudio
Kabátek:
150-150-200 (200-250) g, barva č. 8105, světlá ocelově modrá
Ponožky:
50 g pro všechny velikosti, barva č. 8105, světlá ocelově modrá

DROPS KRUHOVÁ JEHLICE č.3 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 24 ok x 48 řad vroubkovým vzorem = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE č.2,5 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 26 ok x 52 řad vroubkovým vzorem = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS HÁČEK č.3.

DROPS DŘEVĚNÝ KNOFLÍK č.503 Dub (průměr 15 mm): 3 ks.

Vyrobili jste si tento nebo nějaký jiný z našich modelů? Přidejte ke svým fotkám na sociálních sítích tag #dropsdesign - díky tomu je uvidíme i my!

Chcete použít jinou přízi? Zkuste náš převodník!

100% alpaka
od 71.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 71.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 75.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
Jehlice a háčky
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 284Kč. Více zde.

Návod

KNOFLÍKOVÉ DÍRKY:
Knoflíkové dírky vyplétáme v léze pravého předního dílu, z lícové strany, takto: uzavřeme 3. a 4. oko od předního okraje légy a v následující řadě nahodíme na tomtéž místě 2 oka nová.
Dírky vyplétáme v těchto rozestupech:
Velikost 1/3 měsíce: 16, 19 a 22 cm.
Velikost 6/9 měsíců: 16, 20 a 24 cm.
Velikost 12/18 měsíců: 19, 23 a 27 cm.
Velikost 2 roky: 20, 24 a 28 cm.
Velikost 3/4 roky: 21, 26 a 31 cm.
-----------------------------------------------
KABÁTEK:

ZADNÍ DÍL:
Pleteme v řadách na kruhové jehlici – vejdou se na ni pohodlně všechna oka. Zhruba 4 cm dolního okraje rukávů ohrneme na lícovou stranu.
Na kruhovou jehlici č.3 nahodíme přízí Alpaca 58-64-71 (78-86) ok a pleteme vroubkovým vzorem. Ve výši 16-17-19 (20-22) cm nahodíme na každé straně nová oka pro rukávy, takto – nahazujeme v každé 2. řadě (tj. na konci každé řady): 3-3-3- (3-2)x 3 oka, 4-4-3 (5-8)x 4 oka, 2-2-3- (3-3)x 10 ok a 1x 10-13-12 (15-14) ok = 168-180-197 (226-250) ok. Ve výši 25-27-30 (32-35) cm uzavřeme prostředních 18-20-23 (24-24) ok (= průkrčník). V následující řadě uzavřeme na obou okrajích průkrčníku 2 oka = zbývá 73-78-85 (99-111) ok každé náramenice/rukávu. Ve výši 26-28-31 (33-36) cm – končíme rubovou řadou – všechna oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici.

PRAVÝ PŘEDNÍ DÍL:
Na kruhovou jehlici č.3 nahodíme přízí Alpaca 34-37-41 (44-48) ok (včetně 1 krajového oka na boku a 5 ok légy) a pleteme vroubkovým vzorem. Pamatujeme na vyplétání KNOFLÍKOVÝCH DÍREK. SOUČASNĚ ve výši 16-17-19 (20-22) cm přidáme na boku oka pro rukáv – stejně jako u zadního dílu = 89-95-104 (118-130) ok. Ve výši 22-24-27 (28-31) cm uzavřeme krajních 9-10-12 (12-12) ok od předního okraje (= průkrčník). Průkrčník dále tvarujeme – uzavíráme v každé 2. řadě 2x 2 oka, 3x 1 oko = zbývá 73-78-85 (99-111) ok náramenice/rukávu. Ve výši 26-28-31 (33-36) cm – končíme rubovou řadou – všechna oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici.

LEVÝ PŘEDNÍ DÍL:
Nahodíme a pleteme stejně jako pravý přední díl, jen zrcadlově převrácený a BEZ knoflíkových dírek!

DOKONČENÍ:
Sešijeme náramenice a rukávy. Pak sešijeme rukávové a postranní švy.

LEM PRŮKRČNÍKU:
Jehlicí č.3 nabereme z okraje průkrčníku přízí Alpaca asi 60 až 80 ok a upleteme 6 řad vroubkovým vzorem (1. řada = rubová). Poté všechna oka z rubové strany volně uzavřeme.

HÁČKOVANÝ LEM:
Celý okraj kabátku i okraje rukávů obháčkujeme lemem, takto – pracujeme háčkem č.3 přízí Alpaca:
1 KS do 1. oka, *3 řo, 1 DS do 1. ze 3 právě uháčkovaných řo, 1 oko vynecháme, po 1 KS do každého z následujících 3 ok*, *-* opakujeme a končíme 1 pevným okem do 1. KS ze začátku kruhové řady (namísto 1 KS do následujícího oka).
Asi 4 cm od dolního okraje ohrneme každý rukáv do líce a záložku přistehujeme.
-------------------------------

PONOŽKY:
Velikost: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 měsíců (2 roky)
Délka chodidla: 10-11-12 (14) cm

Ponožku pleteme v řadách od středu paty.
Na jehlice č.2,5 nahodíme dvojitou přízí Alpaca 48-52-56 (56) ok. Poté 1 vlákno příze odstraníme a pokračujeme jen jednoduchou přízí. Upleteme 5-6-6- (7) cm výšky pružným vzorem 2/2 (tj. střídáme 2 oka hladce, 2 obrace) – končíme lícovou řadou. Následující rubovou řadu pleteme hladce a SOUČASNĚ ujmeme rovnoměrně 14-14-18 (14) ok = 34-38-38 (42) ok.

VARIANTA S DÍRKOVOU ŘADOU (na zavázání):
Následující lícovou řadu pleteme takto: 1 oko hladce, *2 oka spleteme hladce, 1x nahodíme*, *-* opakujeme a končíme 1 okem hladce. Upleteme 1 rubovou řadu hladce.
VARIANTA BEZ DÍRKOVÉ ŘADY:
Upleteme hladce 1 lícovou a 1 rubovou řadu.

Nyní odložíme krajních 12-13-13 (15) ok na každé straně dílu na pomocnou jehlici a upleteme 4-4,5-5,5 (6,5) cm výšky vroubkovým vzorem nad prostředními 10-12-12 (12) oky. Pak vrátíme odložená oka z pomocné jehlice zpět na jehlice a nabereme k nim 10-11-13 (16) ok na každé straně prostřední části = 54-60-64 (74) ok. Upleteme 3-4-5 (5) cm výšky vroubkovým vzorem nad všemi oky a SOUČASNĚ po 1,5-2-2,5 (3) cm výšky ujmeme v každé 2. řadě 1 oko na začátku i na konci řady a spleteme hladce 2 oka na každé straně prostředních 2 ok. Takto ujímáme až do ukončení práce. Ve výši 10-11-12 (14) cm všechna oka uzavřeme a sešijeme chodidlo a patu.
Dírkovou řadou protáhneme stužku na zavázání.

HRAČKA: viz návod 14-30
DEKA: viz návod 14-24
---------------------------------

Schéma


Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS Baby 14-6) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

Máme takopodrobné rozpisy různých technik a postupů krok za krokem - najdete je zde.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

nahoru

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

nahoru

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

nahoru

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

nahoru

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

nahoru

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

nahoru

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

nahoru

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

nahoru

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

nahoru

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

nahoru

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

nahoru

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

nahoru

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
Pořád se nemůžete dobrat odpovědi, kterou hledáte? Pak posuňte stránku dolů a napište nám svůj dotaz, naši specialisté se vám pokusí poradit. Obvykle to zvládneme během 5 až 10 pracovních dnů.. Mezitím si můžete pročíst otázky a odpovědi, které k tomuto modelu položili ostatní, nebo navštívit skupinu DROPS Workshop na Facebooku, kde vám může poradit některá spřízněná duše!

Komentáře / Otázky (23)

Eva Karlsson 11.11.2019 - 16:07:

Jag ska sticka storlek 6-9 mån. räcker rundsticka 3 och längd 60 cm till detta mönster? eller ska jag införskaffa rundsticka 3 och 80 cm lång?

DROPS Design 14.11.2019 kl. 12:35:

Hej Eva, 60 cm bör räcka till detta mönster :)

Eva Karlsson 11.11.2019 - 10:41:

Till detta mönster, rundsticka 3, räcker 60 cm längd på denna sticka?

DROPS Design 11.11.2019 kl. 11:40:

Hei Eva. Kommer litt an på hvilken størrelse du skal strikke. I den minste str er det ca 170 masker, mens i den største str er det 250 masker. mvh DROPS design

Malin 14.10.2018 - 21:34:

Vad betyder ”avpassa”?

DROPS Design 16.10.2018 kl. 13:57:

Hej, här kommer ett par exempel på hur ordet tolkas: Då det till exempel står att man ska avpassa efter bakst så kan det betyda att du ska kontrollera att du stickat lika många cm som på bakst. Då man avpassar efter till exempel 1 rapport med mönster så betyder det att man ska sticka 1 rapport färdig innan man fortsätter enligt beskrivningen.

Karen Kulin 01.09.2018 - 22:59:

What does the back of this sweater look like. Is it the same sweater as Little Lisa Pattern 13-6.

DROPS Design 02.09.2018 kl. 08:41:

Hello Karen. The back is all worked in garter st and it’s the same as the pattern Little Lisa. Happy knitting!

Vanda 05.06.2018 - 20:07:

Mi dispiace, forse non mi sono spiegata bene. Volevo sapere come cucire le maniche di seguito della spalle, leggo maglie messe in sospeso. Grazie

DROPS Design 05.06.2018 kl. 21:46:

Benvenuta Vanda! Guarda 2 video: Confezione - Punto maglia - Lavorato ai ferri, Confezione - Punto maglia. Buon lavoro!

Vanda 05.06.2018 - 19:00:

Volevo gentilmente sapere come cucire le maniche ( m messe in attesa ). Grazie.

DROPS Design 05.06.2018 kl. 19:22:

Benvenuta Vanda! Guarda il video QUI. Buon lavoro!

Vanda 10.05.2018 - 20:15:

Non ho mai lavorato con i ferri circolari. È possibile eseguire il lavoro con ferri normali? Grazie

DROPS Design 10.05.2018 kl. 21:41:

Buonasera Wanda. Il capo è lavorato avanti e indietro sui ferri. Può quindi usare i ferri dritti e non quelli circolari e seguire le spiegazioni. Buon lavoro!

Vrebos 10.03.2018 - 16:11:

Dit vestje wordt afgewerkt met een gehaakte rand. Hoe doe je dat? Dank u wel.

DROPS Design 12.03.2018 kl. 09:20:

Hallo Vrebos, Helemaal onderaan het patroon van het vestje staat hoe je dit doet: 1 v in de eerste st, * 3 l, 1 stk in de eerste van deze 3 l, 1 st overslaan en 1 v in elke van de 3 volgende st *, herhaal steeds *-* op de hele tr. Sluit af met 1 hv in de eerste v van het begin van de tr (in plaats van 1 v in de volgende st).

Valentina 24.01.2018 - 14:38:

Buongiorno . Vorrei realizzare questo modello con Cotton merino e ferri numero 4 . Taglia 6/9 mesi . Mi sapreste dire se devo prendere 3 o 4 gomitoli ? Grazie

Antonella 19.01.2018 - 10:42:

Buongiorno! Vorrei fare questo modello. Le spiegazioni dicono di usare i ferri 3 ma il campione è fatto con quelli 3,5. Potreste dirmi quanto deve essere il campione lavorato con i ferri 3 a legaccio? Vorrei utilizzare il cotone SAFRAN. Grazie

DROPS Design 19.01.2018 kl. 11:26:

Buongiorno Antonella. Abbiamo corretto il testo. Si lavora con i ferri n° 3 ed il campione è: 24 m x 48 ferri = 10 x 10 cm a punto legaccio. Lavori con la misura dei ferri che le consentono di ottenere il campione indicato. Buon lavoro!

Přidejte komentář k návodu DROPS Baby 14-6

Rádi bychom věděli, co si o tomto modelu myslíte!

Pokud se chcete na něco zeptat, dbejte prosím na to, abyste ve formuláři níže vybrali správnou kategorii - díky tomu se dříve dozvíte, co potřebujete vědět. Povinná pole jsou označena *.