DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Little Miss Berry Cardigan

Crochet cardigan with round yoke and lace collar, summer hat and slippers in DROPS Alpaca. Sizes for baby and children, 1 month to 4 years.

DROPS Baby 14-5
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 – 3/4 years)
All measurements in charts are in cm / X''.

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
Cardigan:
150-200-200 (250-250) g color 3720, old rose + a remainder of 7300 lime and 3140 light rose (for the flower)
Hat:
50-50 (100) g color no. 3720 old rose + a remainder of 7300 lime and 3140 light rose (for the flower)
Shoes:
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no. 3720 old rose + a remainder of 7300 lime and 3140 light rose (for flowers and edge.

DROPS crochet hook no. 3 mm/US C or D to get gauge-

DROPS light wooden button no. 503: 5 pcs. for the cardigan and 2 pcs for the shoes.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 24 sts x 13 rows in Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''

Dec tips-1:
Bind off 1 dc as follows: Crochet 2 dc tog. This means crochet 1 dc but wait with the last yo and pull through (= 2 sts on hook), crochet 1 dc in the next dc and pull the last yo through all 3 sts on hook.

Binding off tips-2:
Bind off as follows at beginning of row: Replace 1 sc/dc with a sl st.
Bind off as follows at the end of row: Turn the piece when number of sc/dc left on row = number of st to bind off and crochet back.

Crochet info: At the beginning of each row with dc replace 1st dc with 3 ch and at the end of row crochet the last dc in the 3rd ch from beginning of previous row. Crochet in to each dc (not in between).

Crochet tips: When crocheting more tr tog. do as follows: Crochet 1 tr but wait with the last yo and pull through (= 2 sts on hook), crochet the next tr but wait with the last yo and pull through (= 3 sts on hook), continue this way until crochet the no. of tr which need to be crochet tog. and pull the last yo through all sts on hook.

CARDIGAN
Back piece:
Read Crochet info! Ch 110-120-129 (138-148) loosely (includes 3 ch to turn with) with old rose Alpaca.
Crochet first row as follows: 1 dc in the 4th ch from hook, *skip ch 1, 1 dc in the next 3 ch* , repeat from *-* until end of row but in size 1/3 month and 2 years finish with a dc in each of the last 5 ch (instead of the last 3 ch) in Size 12/18 month finish with a dc in each of the last 4 = 82-89-96 (103-110) dc, turn the piece.
Continue to crochet 1 dc in each dc at the same time dec 1 dc each side a total of 12 times for
Size 1/3 month + 6/9 month: Alternate between every and every other row
Size 12/18 month + 2 years: On every other row
Size 3 /4 years: Alternate between every 2nd and 3rd row
– see Dec tips-1 = 58-65-72 (79-86) dc.
When the piece measures approx. 17-18-21 (24-26) cm / 6¾''-7''-8¼'' (9½''-10¼'') bind off for armhole each side – see bind off tips-2: 5-5-6 (6-7) dc = 48-55-60 (67-72) dc.
Put the piece aside.

Left front piece:
Ch 61-66-70 (76-80) loosely (includes 3 ch to turn with) with old rose Alpaca.
Crochet first row as follows: 1 dc in the 4th ch from hook, *skip ch 1, 1 dc in the next 3 ch* , repeat from *-* until end of row but in size 1/3 month finish with a dc in each of the last 4 ch (instead of the last 3 ch) in Size 6/9 month + 12/18 month finish with a dc in each of the last 5 = 45-49-52 (56-59) dc, turn the piece.
Continue to crochet 1 dc in each dc at the same time bind off 1 dc at the side as done for the back = 33-37-40 (44-47) dc.
When the piece measures approx. 17-18-21 (24-26) cm / 6¾''-7''-8¼'' (9½''-10¼'') –adjust to the length of the back piece -bind off for armhole as done for the back piece = 28-32-34(38-40) dc. Put the piece aside.

Right front piece: Crochet as left front piece but opposite. In addition bind off for buttonhole on the right front edge. 1 buttonhole = crochet the 2 most outer dc as before, ch 1, skip a dc, and continue to crochet as before with a dc in each dc. On the next row crochet 1 dc in the ch.
Bind off for button hole when the piece measures:
Size 1/3 months: 5, 11, 16, 22 and 27 cm / 2",4 3/8",6 1/4",8 3/4" and 10 5/8"
Size 6/9 months: 6, 12, 18, 24 and 29 cm / 2 3/8",4 3/4",7",9½" and 11 3/8"
Size 12/18 months: 7, 13, 20, 26 and 33 cm / 2 3/4",5 1/8",8",10 1/4" and 13"
Size 2 years: 9, 16, 23, 30 and 37 cm / 3½",6 1/4",9",11 3/4" and 14½"
Size 3/4 years: 10, 17, 25, 32 and 40 cm / 4",6 3/4",9 3/4",12½" and 15 3/4"

Sleeve:
Ch 46-49-50 (52-53) loosely (includes 3 ch to turn with) with old rose Alpaca.
Crochet first row as follows: 1 dc in the 4th ch from hook, *skip ch 1, 1 dc in the next 3 ch* , repeat from *-* until end of row but in size 1/3 month and 12/18 month finish with a dc in each of the last 5 ch (instead of the last 3 ch) in Size 6/9 month + 3 /4 year finish with a dc in each of the last 4 ch = 34-36-37 (38-39) dc, turn the piece.
Continue to crochet 1 dc in each dc.
When the piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' insert a marker (= folding edge) - measure from here from now on!
When the piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' inc. at each side as follows: crochet 1 extra dc in the next-to-last dc each side on every 1.5 cm / ½'' ( = approx every other row) a total of 6-7-9 (11-13) times = 46-50-55 (60-65) dc.
When the piece measures approx. 15-16-18 (23-27) cm / 6"-6 1/4"-7" (9"-10 5/8") from the marker bind off 5-5-6 (6-7)dc each side – read bind off tips-2 = 36-40-43 (48-51) dc.
Put the sleeve aside and make another one.

Crochet the pieces together from the right side as follows:
Crochet 1 dc in each dc at the right front piece, crochet 1 dc in each dc at the right sleeve, 1 dc for each dc at the back piece, 1 dc in each dc at the left sleeve, and 1 dc in each dc at the left front piece = 176-199-214 (239-254) dc.
Crochet 2 rows with a dc in each dc.
Continue with dc at the same time dec 10-10-10 (11-11) dc evenly distributed on the next 10-12-13 (14-15) rows (do not dec in the outermost 4 dc each side) see Dec tips-1.
After the last dec, crochet 1 row of dc at the same time dec 16-17-20 (19-21) dc evenly distributed (not on the outermost 4 dc each side) = 60-62-64 (66-68) dc

Assembly: Sew the sleeve seam edge against edge with small neat stitches. Sew the side seams the same way and the opening underneath the sleeves.

Collar:
Crochet with old rose Alpaca as follows –start and finish in the 3 dc from mid front:
1st row: Crochet a sc in each dc from previous row = 56-58-60 (62-64) sc, turn the piece
2nd row: Ch 7 ( = 1 tr + 3 ch),* skip approx 2 – 2.5 cm / 3/4"-7/8'', and crochet 3 tr tog. in the next sc – read the crochet tips above, ch 3 and 3 tr tog. in the same sc*, repeat from *-* around the neck and finish with 3 ch and 1 tr in the last sc, turn the piece.
3rd row: Ch 7,*crochet 4 tr tog. in the sc loop in the tr group, 4 ch 4 tr tog. and 4 ch*, repeat from *-* around the neck and finish with 1 tr in the 4th ch from beginning of previous row, turn the piece.

Finishing edge:
Crochet 1 row of ch spaces along the opening of the cardigan with old rose Alpaca as follows: 1 sc in the first st, *6 ch, skip 0.5 – 1 cm / 1/4"-½'', 1 sc in the next ch* repeat from *-* and finish with 6 ch and 1 sl st in the first sc from beginning of round –Note: Around the collar crochet ch spaces so there will be 1 sc at the top of each tr group with 6 ch in between.

Crochet edge around the sleeves: crochet 1st and 2nd round as explained above under the collar and then a finishing edge as for the cardigan.

Crochet flower: Ch 3 with light rose and make a ring with a sl st in 1st ch.
1st round: Crochet 5 sc around the ring and finish with a sl st in the sc from beginning of round.
2nd round: *4 ch, 1 dc in the 1st of the ch 4, 1 sc in the next st*, repeat from *-* = 5 leaves, cut the yarn.
Crochet 3 ch with lime and make a ring with a sl st in 1st ch.
1st round: Crochet 5 sc around the ring and finish with a sl st in the sc from beginning of round.
2nd round: *4 ch, 3 dc in the 1st of the ch 4, 1 sc in the next st*, repeat from *-* = 5 leaves, cut the yarn.
Sew the light rose flower on to the lime flower.
Make another flower and sew them on to the right front piece.
Sew in the buttons.



HAT:
Size: 1/3 -6/18 month (2/4) years
To fit head circumference: approx 40/42 –44/46 (48/50) cm / 16" - 17½" (19½")

Crochet info: On the beginning of each round with dc, replace the 1st dc with 3 ch and finish the round with a sl st in the 3rd ch from beginning of round. Crochet in each dc (not in between)

Hat:
Ch 4 with old rose and make a ring with a sl st in 1st ch.
1st round: Crochet 12 dc around the ring –read Crochet info!
2nd round: Crochet 2 dc in each dc = 24 dc
3rd round: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 24 dc
4th round: *1 dc in each of the 2 first dc, 2 dc in the next dc*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 32 dc.
5th round: *1 dc in each of the 3 first dc, 2 dc in the next dc*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 40 dc.
6th round: *1 dc in each of the 4 first dc, 2 dc in the next dc*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 48 dc.
7th round: *1 dc in each of the 5 first dc, 2 dc in the next dc*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 56 dc.
8th round: *1 dc in each of the 6 first dc, 2 dc in the next dc*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 64 dc.
9th round: *1 dc in each of the 7 first dc, 2 dc in the next dc*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 72 dc.
10th round: *1 dc in each of the 8 first dc, 2 dc in the next dc*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 80 dc.
Finish the increases here for size 1/3 month
11th round: *1 dc in each of the 9 first dc, 2 dc in the next dc*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 88 dc.
Finish the increases here for size 6/18 months
12th round: *1 dc in each of the 10 first dc, 2 dc in the next dc*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 96 dc.
All sizes:
Continue round with dc without any increases until the piece measures 13-14 (16) cm / 5"-5½" (6 1/4") from the top.
Crochet 1 round as follows: 2 dc in every 8th dc = 90-99 (108) dc on round.
Crochet 1 round of dc without any increases and continue to crochet 1 round with 2 dc in every 6th dc ( for the middle size 3 dc left on round after the last increase instead of 6) = 105-115 (126) dc on round.

Lace border:
1st round: Ch 4 (= 1 tr), crochet 2 tr tog. – see crochet tips under dress, 3 ch and 3 tr tog in the first dc, *skip approx. 2 – 2.5 cm / 7/8'', crochet 3 tr tog. in the next dc, 3 ch and 3 tr tog.*, repeat from *-* until end of round and finish with a sl st in the 4th ch crochet at beginning of round.
2nd round: Crochet 1 sc in the top of the first tr group, *6 ch, 1 sc in the next tr group*, repeat from *-* until end of round and finish with 6 ch and 1 sl st in the 1st sc from beginning of round.
Fasten off, the hat measures approx. 18-19 (21) cm / 7"-7½" (8 1/4") from the top.

Crochet flower:
Crochet 2 flowers as explained under the cardigan and sew the flowers to the hat.


SHOES:
Size: 1/3 -6/9 – 12/18 month (2 -3/4) years
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15) cm / 4"-4 3/8"-4 3/4" (5½"-6")

Crochet info: At the beginning of each row with sc, replace the 1st sc with 1 ch and finish the row with a sc in the ch from beginning of previous row. At the beginning of each round with dc, replace the 1st dc with 3 ch and finish the row with a dc in the 3rd ch from beginning of previous row. Crochet in each sc/dc (not in between)

Binding off tips:
Bind off as follows at beginning of row: Replace 1 sc/dc with a sl st.
Bind off as follows at the end of row: Turn the piece when number of sc/dc left on row = number of st to bind off and crochet back.

Left shoe: Read Crochet info and start with the sole.
Ch 15-18-20 (25-27) (includes 1 ch to turn with) with old rose Alpaca.
Crochet first row as follows: 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in the following 13-16-18 (23-25) ch = 15-18-20 (25-27) sc, turn the piece.
Continue to crochet 1 sc in each sc from previous row at the same time inc 2 sc at the beginning and end of the first row as follows: crochet 3 sc in the first and last sc on row = 19-22-24 (29-31) sc.
Crochet forth and back until 1 row left before the piece measures 3-4-4 (5-5) cm / 1"-1½"-1½" (2"-2").
Bind off 2 sc each side – read bind off tips = 15-18-20 (25-27) sc on row.
The piece measures approx. 3-4-4 (5-5) cm / 1"-1½"-1½" (2"-2").
Fasten off. Insert a marker in each corner = 4 markers.
Continue to crochet dc around the sole as follows:
1st row: Begin mid back (= mid one of the short sides)- crochet 1 sc in the first st, 3 ch (= 1tr), 1 dc in each of the following 2-3-3 (4-4) dc, 2 dc in the corner, 15-18-20 (25-27) dc along the side, 2 dc in the corner, 5-7-7 (9-9) dc along the other short side (= the toes), 2 dc in the corner, 15-18-20 (25-27) dc along the side, 2 dc in the corner and 2-3-3 (4-4) dc, finish with a sl st in the 3rd ch from beginning of round = 48-58-62 (76-80) dc.
2nd row: As first row –but crochet 2 dc tog at each corner by the toes = 46-56-60 (74-78) dc
3rd row and 4th row: Crochet 2 rows with dc without any bind offs.
The piece now measures approx. 2 cm / 3/4'' in the height.

Ankle band: Crochet 2 rows of dc over the center 5-5-5 (7-7) dc mid back for ankle band, continue to ch 33-34-35 (36-37) at the end of the last row, turn the piece.
Crochet 1 dc in the 4th ch from the hook, 1 dc in the next ch and ch 1, skip a ch (= button hole), now crochet 1 dc in each of the remaining ch and 1 dc in each of the 5-5-5 (7-7) last dc. Fasten off.

The top part: Crochet 1 dc in each of the 7-9-9 (11-11) dc at mid front of the shoe.
Crochet forth and back until the top part measures 4-4-5 (5-6) cm / 1½"-1½"-2" (2"-2½"). Fasten off. Sew the top part to the shoe each side with small neat stitches.
Change to light rose and crochet lobster sts along the whole opening of the shoe and along the ankle band (lobster st = crochet scs from the left towards the right).

Center strap: Crochet 5 sc over the middle sts at the front of the shoe with light rose Alpaca (crochet the 1st row from t he wrong side in lobster sts).
Crochet forth and back until the strap measures 6 cm / 2 3/8''. Bend the strap in the middle and towards the wrong side and sew the strap at the inside of the shoe.
Sew on a button at the center back of the shoe approx. 0.5 cm / 1/4'' from the edge.

Crochet flower: Crochet 1 flower as explained under the cardigan and sew the flower to the top of the shoe.

Right shoe: Crochet as left but opposite.


DRESS: see pattern no 14-04
Bag: see pattern no 14-04

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 22.10.2014
Sleeve: ...When the piece measures approx. 15-16-18 (23-27) cm / 6\"-6 1/4\"-7\" (9\"-10 5/8\") from the marker bind off 5-5-6 (6-7)dc each side – read bind off tips-2 = 36-40-43 (48-51) dc.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (180)

Fauzan Danish wrote:

We took crochet cardigan 5 pieces photos how to send these to make others understand how to make this cardigan

19.02.2014 - 06:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Fauzan, you can add your project in Ravelry to show other user your pictures. Happy crocheting!

19.02.2014 - 09:43

Fauzan Danish wrote:

When crocheting the pieces together should we make three rows of double crochet or two rows in the begining of yoke?2nd question,how to evenly distribute binding off dc rows.

18.02.2014 - 12:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Fauzan, you will crochet a total of 3 rows before starting dec. For dec, divide number of sts (ex 176) before dec by number of dec (ex 10), divide 176/10= 17.6, crochet approx every 16th and 17th sts together. Do not forget to not dec over front band sts. Happy crocheting!

18.02.2014 - 13:46

Fauzan Dani wrote:

Got stuck in right front piece,after how many rows first buttonhole should be made? second question ,after completing the back piece for 1 to 3 month our piece height is 16 cm what should be done?

01.02.2014 - 16:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Fauzan,you work all pieces separately until yoke (i.e. 17 cm for back and front pieces in size 1/3 months) and then take all pieces together to work yoke. Continue on 58 sts until 17 cm and put aside. Open buttonholes on right front pieces when piece measures 5, 11, 16, 22 et 27 cm. Happy crocheting!

03.02.2014 - 09:02

Fauzan Dani wrote:

In the left front piece should we decrease at both sides as we did for the back piece?

23.01.2014 - 18:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Fauzan, you dec on front pieces just on one side (side that will be sewn together with back piece + armhole). Happy crocheting!

24.01.2014 - 09:10

country flag Fauzan Dani wrote:

When it is said that 1 tr in each tr crochet at the same bind off 1 tr each side ,should we decrease in the 1st row or we make 1st row without decrease?

23.01.2014 - 16:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Fauzan, you start bind off from 1st row - follow bind off tips 1. Happy crocheting!

23.01.2014 - 16:07

Fauzan Dani wrote:

Should we cut off the yarn after binding off the back piece?

21.01.2014 - 04:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Fauzan, yes you can cut the yarn after back piece, you will join yarn again for yoke to work all pieces together. Happy crocheting!

21.01.2014 - 09:16

country flag Fauzi wrote:

When you say alternate between every and every other row ,what it means?

18.01.2014 - 15:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Fauzi, when you bind off 1 tr each side alternately every and every other row, it means you will work as follows *work 1 row with dec, 1 row without dec, 1 row with dec* and repeat until a total of 12 times, you will have dec 24 sts. Happy crocheting!

20.01.2014 - 08:40

country flag Fauzan Dani wrote:

In the cardigan after binding off the back piece how much should be its height?

18.01.2014 - 15:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Fauzan, back piece should be 17 cm in size 1/3 months and 18 cm in size 6/9 months before yoke (see measurement chart). Happy crocheting!

20.01.2014 - 10:02

country flag Thomas Huber wrote:

Auf welcher Seite der Vorderseite sind die Maschen abzunehmen? Rückenteil = beide Seiten (./. 24 Maschen) Seitenteil = ? In der Anleitung soll angeblich so wie für Rückenteil abgenommen werden, dann stimmt Maschenanzahl aber nicht.

06.01.2014 - 18:26

DROPS Design answered:

Lieber Herr Huber, am Rückenteil wird an beiden Seiten abnehmen, das ist jeweils zur Seitennaht. Dort wird auf bei den Vorderteilen abgenommen.

07.01.2014 - 22:30

country flag Wan Leung wrote:

When crochet all pieces together for 12 months, for dec 10 dc evenly distributed on the next 13 rows. Meaning that each row dec 10 dc OR dec 10 dc within the 13 row so each row about 1 dc dec. thanks

11.12.2013 - 16:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Wan Leung, for size 12 months, you will decrease evenly 10 dc in each of the 10 next rows then work 1 more dec row while you will dec 20 dc. You first start with 214 sts - (10 dec x 13 rows) - 20 dec = 64 dc. Happy crocheting!

11.12.2013 - 21:01