DROPS Baby / 14 / 4

Little Miss Berry by DROPS Design

Crochet dress and summer hat in DROPS Alpaca. Knitted and felted bag in DROPS Alaska. Sizes for baby and children, 1 month to 4 years.

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 – 3/4 years)
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 (86/92 – 98/104)

Materials: Alpaca
Dress:
150-200-200 (250-250) g colour 3720, old rose + a remainder of 7300 lime and 3140 light rose (for the flower)
Hat:
50-50 (100) g colour no. 3720 old rose + a remainder of 7300 lime and 3140 light rose (for the flower)
Bag:
50 g colour no. 02, off white Alaska + a remainder of colour no. 21 off white Vienna and colour no. 36 rose Vienna + a remainder of colour no. 3140 light rose Alpaca.

DROPS crochet hook no. 3
DROPS crochet hook no. 6 (for the heart on the bag)
DROPS pointed needle size 5.5 mm (for the bag)
DROPS light wooden button no. 503: 2 pcs. (for the dress)

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

100% Wool
from 1.80 £ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet tension: 24 sts (= tr) x 13 rows in Alpaca on hook no. 3 = 10 x 10 cm

Knitting tension: 16 sts x 20 rows on needles size 5.5 mm with Alaska in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm

Binding off tips-1:
Bind off 1 tr as follows: Crochet 2 tr tog. This means crochet 1 tr but wait with the last yrh and pull through (= 2 sts on hook), crochet 1 tr in the next tr and pull the last yrh through all 3 sts on hook.

Binding off tips-2:
Bind off as follows at beginning of row: Replace 1 dc/tr with a sl st.
Bind off as follows at the end of row: Turn the piece when number of dc/tr left on row = number of st to bind off and crochet back.
Crochet info: At the beginning of each row with tr replace 1st tr with 3 ch and at the end of row crochet the last tr in the 3rd ch from beginning of previous row. Crochet in to each tr (not in between).

DRESS:
Front piece: Read Crochet info! Crochet 106-116-126 (135-145) ch loosely (inclusive of 3 ch to turn with) on hook no. 3 and old rose Alpaca.
Crochet first row as follows: 1 tr in the 4th ch from hook, *skip 1 ch, 1 tr in the next 3 ch* , repeat from *-* until end of row –NB: In size 1/3 month + 12/18 month finish with a tr in each of the last 5 ch (instead of the last 3 ch) in Size 2 years finish with a tr in each of the last 6 ch (instead of the last 3 ch) ) and in Size 3/4 years finish with a tr in each of the last 4 ch = 79-86-94 (101-108) tr, turn the piece.
Continue to crochet 1 tr in to each tr at the same time bind off 1 tr each side a total of 12 times – see bind off tips – 1: on Size 1/3 month: alternate between every and every other row, Size 6/9+ 12/18 month: On every other row and Size 2 + 3 /4 years: On every 3rd row = 55-62-70 (77-84) tr. When the piece measures approx. 17-22-27 (32-35) cm bind off for armhole each side on every row – see bind off tips-2: 5 tr 1 time, 2 tr 1 time and 1 tr 3 times = 35-42-50 (57-64) tr. When the piece measures 23-29-35 (40-44) cm insert a marking thread in the middle of the piece (For size 1/3 month and 2 years insert a marking thread in the middle st). Then bind off for the neck as follows: Crochet from the shoulder and in towards the neck until 2-3-5 (5-6) tr left before the marking thread (for size 1/3 month and 2 years the number of tr is before the tr with the marking thread) turn the piece. Continue to bind off for the neck on every row –read bind off tips-2: 2 tr 2 times and 1 tr 3 times = 8-11-13-(16-19) tr left for shoulder. Cut and sew the thread when the piece measures approx. 27-33-39 (45-49) cm and repeat for the other side of the neck.

Back piece: Crochet as front piece - insert a marking thread in the middle of the piece (For size 1/3 month and 2 years insert a marking thread in the middle st). Bind off for armholes as for the front but when the piece measures 19-25-31 (37-41) cm split the piece mid back to a slit and continue to crochet each part separately (For size 1/3 month and 2 years do not crochet the middle tr with the marking thread). When the piece measures approx. 25-31-37 (43-47) cm bind off for the neck as follows: crochet 9-12-14 (17-20) tr from the shoulder in towards the neck, turn the piece and bind off 1 tr on the next row – read Bind off tips -2. Crochet until end of row and cut and sew the thread when the piece measures approx. 27-33-39 (45-49) cm. Repeat for the other side.

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the side seams edge against edge, with small neat sts.

Crochet edge: At last crochet an edge along the neck opening (and the slit at the back) and around both armholes with hook no. 3 and old rose Alpaca as follows: 1 dc in the first st, *6 ch, skip approx. 1 to 1.5 cm, 1 dc in the next st*, repeat from *-* and finish with 6 ch and 1 sl st in the first dc from beginning of round.
Sew 2 buttons along the right slit at the back (approx. 0.5 cm from the slit edge) –the top button should be placed 0.5 – 1 cm from the top edge, and use the ch loops at the opposite slit edge as button holes).

Lace Border: Crochet a lace border along the bottom edge of the dress with hook no. 3 and old rose Alpaca as follows:
Crochet tips: When crocheting more dtr tog. do as follows: Crochet 1 dtr but wait with the last yrh and pull through (= 2 sts on hook), crochet the next dtr but wait with the last yrh and pull through (= 3 sts on hook) , continue this way until crochet the no. of dtr which need to be crochet tog. and pull the last yrh through all sts on hook.
1st round: Begin at the side. 1 dc in the 1st tr, 4 ch (= 1 dtr), crochet 2 dtr tog. in the same tr, 3 ch and 3 dtr tog. still in the same tr, *skip approx. 2 – 2.5 cm, crochet 3 dtr tog. in the next tr, 3 ch and 3 dtr tog.*, repeat from *-* until end of round and finish with a sl st in the 4th ch crochet at beginning of round.
2nd round: Crochet sl st until first ch-loop, 4 ch (=1 dtr), crochet 3 dtr tog. around the same ch-loop, 4 ch, 4 dtr tog. around the same ch-loop, *in the next ch-loop crochet 4 dtr tog., 4 ch and 4 dtr tog.*, repeat from *-* until end of round and finish with a sl st in the 4th ch crochet at beginning of round.
3rd round: Crochet as 2nd round.
4th round: Crochet as 2nd round but crochet 5 ch in each ch-loop (instead of 4 ch).
5th round: Crochet 1 dc in the top of the first dtr group, *6 ch, 1 dc in the next dtr group*, repeat from *-* until end of round and finish with 6 ch and 1 sl st in 1. dc at beginning of round.

Crochet flower: Crochet 3 ch with hook no. 3 and light rose and make a loop with a sl st.
1st round: Crochet 5 dc around the loop and finish with a sl st in the dc from beginning of round.
2nd round: *4 ch, 1 tr in the 1st of the 4 ch, 1 dc in the next st*, repeat from *-* = 5 leaves, cut the thread.
Crochet 3 ch with hook size 3 and lime and make a loop with a sl st.
1st round: Crochet 5 dc around the loop and finish with a sl st in the dc from beginning of round.
2nd round: *4 ch, 3 tr in the 1st of the 4 ch, 1 dc in the next st*, repeat from *-* = 5 leaves, cut the thread.
Sew the light rose flower on to the lime flower and sew the flower to the dress at mid front.



HAT:
Size: 1/3 -6/18 month (2/4) years
To fit head circumference: approx 40/42 –44/46 (48/50) cm
Crochet info: At the beginning of each round with tr, replace the 1. tr with 3 ch and finish the round with a sl st in the 3. ch from beginning of round. Crochet in each tr (not in between)

Hat: Crochet 4 ch with hook no. 3 and old rose and make a loop with a sl st.
1st round: Crochet 12 tr around the loop –read Crochet info!
2nd round: Crochet 2 tr in each tr = 24 tr
3rd round: Crochet 1 tr in each tr = 24 tr
4th round: *1 tr in each of the 2 first tr, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 32 tr.
5th round: *1 tr in each of the 3 first tr, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 40 tr.
6th round: *1 tr in each of the 4 first tr, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 48 tr.
7th round: *1 tr in each of the 5 first tr, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 56 tr.
8th round: *1 tr in each of the 6 first tr, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 64 tr.
9th round: *1 tr in each of the 7 first tr, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 72 tr.
10th round: *1 tr in each of the 8 first tr, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 80 tr.
Finish the increases here for size 1/3 month
11th round: *1 tr in each of the 9 first tr, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until finish round = 88 tr.
Finish the increases here for size 6/18 month
12th round: *1 tr in each of the 10 first tr, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until finish round = 96 tr.
All sizes: Continue round with tr without any increases until the piece measures 13-14 (16) cm from the top. Crochet 1 round as follows: 2 tr in every 8th tr = 90-99 (108) tr on round. Crochet 1 round of tr without any increases and continue to crochet 1 round of tr with 2 tr in every 6th tr ( for the middle size 3 tr left on round after the last increase instead of 6) = 105-115 (126) tr on round.
Lace border:
1st round: Crochet 4 ch (= 1 dtr), crochet 2 dtr tog. –see crochet tips under dress, 3 ch and 3 dtr tog in the first tr, *skip approx. 2 – 2.5 cm, crochet 3 dtr tog. in the next tr, 3 ch and 3 dtr tog.*, repeat from *-* until end of round and finish with a sl st in the 4th ch crochet at beginning of round.
2nd round: Crochet 1 dc in the top of the first dtr group, *6 ch, 1 dc in the next dtr group*, repeat from *-* until end of round and finish with 6 ch and 1 sl st in the 1st dc at beginning of round. Cut and sew the thread, the hat measures approx. 18-19 (21) cm from the top.
Crochet flower: Crochet 2 flowers as explained under the dress and sew the flowers to the hat.



BAG:
Measures:
Before felting: Approx. 16 cm wide and 24 cm long
After feltning: Approx. 12 cm wide and 15 cm long.
Felting: Felt the bag in the washing machine on a normal cycle 40 deg + spin with a tbsp of washing powder without enzymes – read more about felting on our homepage www.garnstudio.com
Bag: Cast on loosely 27 sts (inclusive of an edge st each side) on needles size 5.5 mm and off white Vienna. Knit 2 rows of garter sts and change to Alaska and knit in stocking sts until the piece measures approx. 47 cm –Adjust so that the next row is knitted from the wrong side. Change back to off white Vienna, and knit 2 rows of garter sts. Bind off loosely.
Strap: Cast on 5 sts on needle size 5.5 with Alaska and knit in stocking sts until the strap measures approx. 25 cm, bind off. Fold the strap double – lengthwise and purl side against purl side and sew it tog. in the most outer part of the outer st.
Assembly: Fold the bag double and sew the side seams inside the edge st. Sew the strap to the bag each side. Felt the bag in the washing machine – see explanation above.
Crochet Heart: Crochet 2 ch on hook size 6 with rose Vienna and crochet 1 dc in the first of the 2 ch, turn the piece. Crochet 1 ch, crochet 3 dc in dc from previous row, turn the piece. Crochet 1 ch, 2 dc in the first dc, 1 dc in the next dc and 2 dc in the last dc = 5 dc, turn the 1 ch, 2 dc in the first dc, 1 dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the following dc, 1 dc in the next dc and 2 dc in the last dc = 8 dc, turn the piece. *Crochet 1 ch, skip a dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, turn the piece. Crochet 1 ch skip 1 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, turn the piece. Crochet 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the 2 dc, turn the piece. Crochet 1 ch and 1 sl st in the ch from beginning of previous row, cut and sew the thread*. Repeat from *-* for the other side of the heart and sew the heart to the bag.
Crochet flower: Crochet 3 ch with hook no. 3 and light rose Alpaca and make a loop with a sl st.
1st round: Crochet 5 dc around the loop and finish with a sl st in the dc from beginning of round.
2nd round: *4 ch, 1 tr in the 1st of the 4 ch, 1 dc in the next st*, repeat from *-* = 5 leaves, cut the thread. Sew the flower to the heart.


Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 14-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (158)

Ida 20.01.2014 - 14:47:

Eccomi di nuovo qui :-) cosa vuol dire per fare gli scalfi del davanti che bisogna fare 5 m.a 1 volta, 2 m.a 1 volta e 1 m.a 3 volte = 35-42-50 (57-64) m.a?

DROPS Design 20.01.2014 kl. 16:32:

Buongiorno Ida, per le diminuzioni degli scalfi deve lavorare 1 giro diminuendo 5 m.a a ogni lato, sul giro successivo diminuire 2 m.a a ogni lato e sui 3 giri successivi diminuire 1 m.a a ogni lato. Ci riscriva se non è chiaro. Buon lavoro!!

Ida 20.01.2014 - 14:47:

Eccomi di nuovo qui :-) cosa vuol dire per fare gli scalfi del davanti che bisogna fare 5 m.a 1 volta, 2 m.a 1 volta e 1 m.a 3 volte = 35-42-50 (57-64) m.a?

DROPS Design 20.01.2014 kl. 16:32:

Buongiorno Ida, per le diminuzioni degli scalfi deve lavorare 1 giro diminuendo 5 m.a a ogni lato, sul giro successivo diminuire 2 m.a a ogni lato e sui 3 giri successivi diminuire 1 m.a a ogni lato. Ci riscriva se non è chiaro. Buon lavoro!!

Jone Elida 19.01.2014 - 11:52:

Jeg hekler. Denne kjolen i str 2 år. Nå har jeg begynt på bakstykket og skal felle 1st på beg og slutten av omgangen. Jeg er på den første raden jeg skal felle. Når jeg er ferdig å felle skal det bli 97st, men til meg blir det 99! Skjønner ikke hvordan jeg feller feil fordi jeg heklet riktig på forstykket!

DROPS Design 22.01.2014 kl. 14:48:

Hej Jone. Du er paa rette vei. Du er startet med 101 st og har fellet 1 gang = 99 st. Du skal felle i alt 12 gange (altsaa -24 st), saa du ender paa 77 som der staar mönstret.

Ida Costagliola 16.01.2014 - 14:23:

Sto lavorando la tahlia 6/9 mesi...come procedo? due m.b insieme e poi devo fare le 3 cat e continuare a m.a?

DROPS Design 16.01.2014 kl. 16:46:

Buongiorno Ida, per la taglia 6-9 mesi sul 2° giro deve lavorare 1 m.a in ogni m.a con 1 diminuzione a ogni lato, seguire il suggerimento per le diminuzioni-1. Le diminuzioni vanno lavorate 12 volte in totale, 1 giro si e 1 no. Ci riscriva se ha ancora dubbi. Buon lavoro!!

Ida 16.01.2014 - 10:54:

Scusate l ennesimo mess vorrei essere sicura d aver capito come fare : dopo il pprimo giro.in cui alterno 3 m.a e salro 1cat si fa un giro tutto a m.a,2°giro inizio lavorando 2mb insieme e poi faccio 3 cat giusto? 3°girp m.a normale giusto? devo fare cosi la diminuzione iniziale?

DROPS Design 16.01.2014 kl. 13:42:

Buongiorno Ida, per il 1° giro è corretto, deve lavorare 1 m.a nella 4° cat, poi ripetere *saltare 1 m.a, 1 m.a in ognuna delle 3 cat seguenti°, sul 2° giro deve lavorare 1 m.a in ogni m.a ma facendo le diminuzioni, che variano in base alla taglia: che taglia sta lavorando? Ci riscriva se ha altri dubbi. Buon lavoro!!

Ida 15.01.2014 - 23:58:

Chiedo scusa x l ennesimo messaggio ma vorrei essere sicura d aver capito: 1 riga faccio 3 m.a e salto una cat; 2 riga lavoro tutte m.a; 3 riga faccio 2 mb insieme poi 3 cat e continuo a m.a fino alle ultime maglie dove faccio altra diminuzione giusto? 4 riga normale 5 riga come la 3 giusto?

DROPS Design 16.01.2014 kl. 13:43:

Buongiorno Ida, il primo giro è corretto, sul 2° giro deve iniziare con le diminuzioni, che taglia sta lavorando? I giri seguenti variano in base alla taglia. Buon lavoro!!

Ida Costagliola 15.01.2014 - 20:02:

GRAZIE PER IL PRIMO CHIARIMENTO IL SECONDO DUBBIO è QUI : Bind off 1 dc as follows: Crochet 2 dc tog. DC NON STA PER MAGLIA ALTA?

DROPS Design 15.01.2014 kl. 20:14:

Buonasera Ida, i termini dell'uncinetto sono diversi da inglese UK a inglese US: in inglese UK dc è maglia bassa. Buon lavoro!

Ida Costagliola 15.01.2014 - 15:18:

CREDO CHE CI SIANO ERRORI NELLA TRADUZIONE: NELLE INFO DICE DI CHIUDERE CON UNA M BASSISSIMA POI DIMINUZIONI 1 SONO 2 M.ALTE INSIEME E NON M. BASSE DOPO IL PRIMO GIRO DICE Size 6/9+ 12/18 month: On every other row CIOè SU OGNI RIGA NON OGNI DUE...GIUSTO?

DROPS Design 15.01.2014 kl. 15:59:

Buongiorno Ida, può scrivere in modo più chiaro qual è il suo dubbio? non ci sono errori nella traduzione, "every other row" è ogni 2 righe, cioè una riga si e una riga no. Ci riscriva se non è chiaro. Buon lavoro!!

Marie 12.01.2014 - 14:46:

Hallo, ik vergat aan te vinken dat ik een vraag heb en geen opmerking. Is dit patroon ook te maken met de merino baby wol? En is die effectief zachter? Bedankt!

DROPS Design 13.01.2014 kl. 11:20:

Hoi Marie. Je kan deze ook maken met de DROPS Baby Merino. Hij is zachter en kan natuurlijk ook in de wasmachine (Superwash behandelt) Vergeet niet een proeflapje te maken op om de stekenverhouding goed te hebben!

Marie 12.01.2014 - 14:44:

Hallo, ik wil graag vragen of je dit jurkje ook kan maken met de merino baby wol, die lijkt me zachter voor baby. Of is dit niet zo? Ik heb geen ervaring met Dropsgaren en wil online bestellen, niet makkelijk dus :)

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 14-4

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.