DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 13-3
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 –3/4 years)
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 (86/92 – 98/104)

Materials: Alpaca
Jacket:
150-150-200 (200-250) g colour no 0100, off-white

DROPS circular needle size 3mm
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5
DROPS wooden button, no 501, 1 pc + 1 flat button (to hold jacket in place from the wrong side)

Socks:
50 g for all sizes colour no 0100, off-white

Drops pointed needle size 2.5mm

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET:
Knitting tension: 24 sts x 48 rows on needle size 3mm in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter sts(back and forth on needle): Knit all rows

Decreasing tips (applies to sloping edge): Dec 1 st as follows: K2 tog.

All pieces are knitted back and forth on circular needle. Begin with left front piece, inc for sleeves and knit to shoulder. Knit right front piece in the same way and put both front pieces on the same needle. Now knit back from top down.

Left front piece: Loosely cast on 31-34-38 (41-44) sts with Alpaca on circular needle size 3mm and knit garter sts. At the same time inc 1 st towards mid front on 2nd and 3rd row alternately a total of 18-20-24 (28-30) times = 49-54-62 (69-72) sts. After the last inc knit 4 rows garter sts. On next row make buttonhole from the wrong side as follows: Knit 3 sts, K2 tog, yo, knit remaining sts. Knit yo on next row. Knit another 4 rows garter sts = 10 rows of garter sts after the last inc. Piece measures approx 11-12-15 (17-18) cm.
Read all of the following section before knitting it!
On next row, dec 1 st towards mid front by knitting tog the first 2 sts (to ensure the edge doesn’t become too loose). Now dec for sloping front edge towards mid front as follows – see Decreasing tips: 1 st on every row a total of 0-0-7 (19-12) times and then 1 st on every other row a total of 27-30-28 (20-21) times. At the same time when piece measures 17-18-20 (21-23) cm cast on new sts on every other row for sleeve: 7-6-4 (8-4) sts 1-2-2- (1-4) times, 8-8-6 (6-6) sts 3-3-5 (7-7) times and 24 sts 1 times. After all dec and inc are complete there are 76-83-88 (103-112) sts on shoulder/sleeve. When piece measures 26-28-31 (33-36) cm (= measure up till shoulder) cast on 2 new sts towards the neck. Knit 2 rows garter sts and cast on another 2 new sts towards the neck = 80-87-92 (107-116) sts. Put all sts on a thread.

Right front piece: Cast on and knit as left front, but mirrored.

Back piece: Put both front pieces in on the same circular needle as follows: 80-97-92 (107-116) sts from one front piece, loosely cast on 12-12-16 (16-20) sts for neck, 80-87-92 (107-116) sts from the other front piece = 172-186-200 (230-252) sts on row. Insert a marking thread and measure piece from here from now on. Knit garter sts. When piece measures 6-7-7 (7.5-7.5) cm cast off sts each side on every other row – i.e. at the beginning of each row – as follows: 24 sts 1 time, 8-8-6 (6-6) sts 3-3-5 (7-7) times and 7-6-4 (8-4) sts 1-2-2 (1-4) times = 62-66-76 (82-88) sts. Continue until piece measures 25-27-30 (32-35) cm from marking thread and cast off loosely.

Assembly: Sew side and sleeve seams in the outer loops of sts. Sew the last 6 cm towards sleeve edge very neatly, and fold approx 5 cm against the right side. Sew on button to fit buttonhole and sew on flat button on the wrong.
Crochet border: Crochet a border round all edges using Alpaca and crochet hook size 2.5 as follows: 1 dc in 1st st, *3 ch, 1 tr in the 1st of the 3 ch just crochet, 1 dc in the each of the next 3 sts*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc from beginning of round.



SOCKS:
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 years)
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14) cm

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 52 rows on needle size 2.5mm in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm

Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*

The sock is knitted back and forth from mid back. Cast on 48-52-56 (56) sts with 2 strands of Alpaca and needles size 2.5mm. Remove 1 strand and knit 5-6-6- (7) cm Rib – adjust so that next row is from the wrong side. Knit 1 row from the wrong side, at the same time dec 14-14-18 (14) sts evenly on row = 34-38-38 (42) sts.
With row of holes: Knit next row from the right side as follows: K1, *K2 tog, yo*, repeat from *-* and finish with K1. Knit 1 row from wrong side.
Without row of holes: Knit 1 row from right side and 1 row from wrong side.
Now put the outermost 12-13-13 (15) sts each side on a thread. Knit 4-4.5-5.5 (6.5) cm garter sts over the middle 10-12-12 (12) sts. Put sts from thread back on needle and pick up 10-11-13 (16) sts on each side of middle piece = 54-60-64 (74) sts. Knit 3-4-5 (5) cm garter sts over all sts, at the same time after 1.5-2-2.5 (3) dec on every other row until finished measurements as follows: Dec 1 st at the beginning and at the end of row and K2 tog on each side of the 2 middle sts. Cast off when foot measures 10-11-12 (14) cm and sew seam under foot and mid back. Pull a silk ribbon or similar through holes.

SOFT TOY: see pattern 13-28
BLANKET: see pattern 13-20









Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (43)

country flag Doris wrote:

Ich habe das linke Vorderteil fast fertig, bin jetzt aber verwirrt über diesen Schritt: ....Wenn die Arb. 26-28-31 (33-36) cm misst (= bis zur Schulter messen) ? "2 neue M gegen den Hals aufnehmen"?.

02.10.2023 - 20:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Doris, das Rückenteil wird danach von oben nach unten über die Maschen von beiden Vorderteile gestrickt, diese 2 Mal 2 neuen Maschen sind die Maschen für den Halsausschnitt am Vorderteil. Zwischen beiden schlagen Sie am Ende rechten Vorderteil die neuen Maschen für den Halsausschnitt (12 , 16 oder 20 Maschen je nach der Größe). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.10.2023 - 07:55

country flag Marianne wrote:

Beim linken Vorderteil werden 24 x 1 Masche für die Ärmel aufgenommen. Geschieht dies auch wie bei den Abnahmen jede 2. Reihe? Also Ab/Zunahmerreihe, 1 Reihe stricken und dann wieder Ab/Zunahmereihe. Merci.

07.07.2021 - 22:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Marianne, die Zunahmen 24 x 1 Masche vom Anfang beim linken Vorderteil werden gegen die Mitte sein, dh nicht für die Ärmel sondern für die Ausschnitt vom Vorderteil, die enstehen entweder am Ende einer Hinreihe oder am Anfang einer Rückreihe, die Abnahmen werden dann am Ende von den Rückreihen (in jede 2. R) gestrickt (= auf der linken Seite, von der Vorderseite gesehen). Für die Ärmel schlagen Sie dann die neuen Maschen am Ende jeder Rückreihe (auf der linken Seite, von der Vorderseite gesehen) an. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.07.2021 - 09:16

country flag Julie wrote:

What does increase mid front mean? Where does the increase stitch appear on one edge,? Or up the middle?

01.12.2020 - 21:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Julie, the mid front of the jacket is the side towards the opening/neck of the front piece. This means on left front piece when increasing/decreasing towards mid front you will increase/increase at the end of a row from RS and/or at the beg of a row from WS. Happy knitting!

02.12.2020 - 07:49

country flag Maryse SIKSOU wrote:

Bonjour je ne comprends pas le dos pour la taille 1/3mois reprise des mailles 80+12+80 = 172 et non 176 dimminution (1x24m + 3x8 m + 1x7m) X 2= 86 m 172- 86 = 86 et non 62 .... merci de me dire où je me trompe .

01.11.2020 - 10:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Siksou, il y avait effectivement une faute de frappe, il fallait lire 172 et non 176, mais ensuite vous rabattez de chaque côté : 24 m + 3x8 m + 1x7m = 55 m de chaque côté (= au début de chaque rang de chaque côté = sur l'endroit et sur l'envers) = 172 - (55x2)= 62 m. Bon tricot!

02.11.2020 - 08:18

country flag Sep wrote:

For the phrase: "At the same time inc 1 st towards mid front on 2nd and 3rd row alternately a total of 18-20-24 (28-30) times = 49-54-62 (69-72) sts. " Please can you let me know which rows require increases. Is this rows: 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 9 etc.. or is it every even row. Thanks so much, Sep

13.01.2020 - 13:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sep, increasing alternately every 2nd and 3rd row will be worked as follows: *work 1 row, increase on next row, work 2 rows, increase on next row* repeat from *-* 9-10-12 (14-15) times in total (= 18-20-24 (28-30) sts increased. Happy knitting!

13.01.2020 - 15:58

country flag Christiane wrote:

Im Text steht: " mit Alaska xxxMaschen mit N..." ? Sollte es nicht das Garn Alpaca sein? Wurden die Anpassungen der Zunahmen bereits eingearbeitet? Danke

29.03.2018 - 13:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Christiane, stimmt, Anleitung wird korrigiert, es sollte hier Alpaca sein. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.04.2018 - 08:56

country flag Gitte wrote:

Er lidt forvirret over begyndelsen med 2. og 3. pind! Vil det det være i samme side at udtagningerne er? Og er det i begyndelsen eller slutningen af pinden man tager ud?

23.03.2018 - 11:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gitte, ja det stemmer det er mod midt foran, det vil sige at du tager både ud på retsiden og på vrangen. Du tager ud på 1,3,6,8,11,13,16 pind og så videre. God fornøjelse!

26.04.2018 - 11:40

country flag Iben wrote:

Laver man også knaphul i højre forstykke og syr en lille knap i på bagsiden af venstre forstykke. Eller hvordan sørger man for at højre forstykke ikke kommer til at hænge og “blafre”? Pft for svar

17.02.2018 - 15:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Iben, ja du lavet et lille knaphul i begge forstykker og syr knapperne i så de passer med spidsen. God fornøjelse!

21.02.2018 - 14:56

country flag Maria Knigge wrote:

Beskriv dessa rader mer exakt: " sticka räta m på varje varv samtidigt som det läggs upp 1 maska ytterst på stickorna mot mitt fram VÄXELVIS på vartannat och vart tredje varv" När jag följer detta hamnar ökningarna på båda sidor av stickningen!!! HJÄLP! Med vänliga hälsningar Maria

27.12.2017 - 13:11

DROPS Design answered:

Du ska göra alla ökningar i samma sida, dvs mot mitt fram. Detta betyder att ibland görs ökn i slutet på varvet och ibland i början på varvet.

02.01.2018 - 14:23

country flag MaryBeth Billington wrote:

The titling of this pattern states "jacket, socks, blanket, and toy", however only the patterns for the jacket and sock are actually given. How do I find the remaining patterns? I submitted a name request for this set of patterns based upon the understanding that all four of them were included.

30.05.2017 - 19:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Billington, you will find the pattern of the toy here and the blanket there. Happy crocheting!

31.05.2017 - 08:28