DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.55$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 86-14
PURSE WITH FLAP AND BALL

Measurements:
Before felting: 34 cm wide at lower edge x 48 cm high [13?3/8" x 18?7/8"]
After felting: 28 cm wide at lower edge x 25 cm high [11" x 9-7/8"]

Materials: DROPS SNOW
350 gr nr 6, olive

DROPS 8 mm [US 11] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.
DROPS 7 mm [US K] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.55$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge:
Before felting: 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.
After felting: 13.5 sts x 28 rows (25 rows on strap).

Felting: The purse is felted in the washing machine on regular cycle with warm water and a small amount of detergent.

Front (side without flap): Cast on 38 sts and knit stockinette st. When the piece measures 8 cm dec 1 st at each side. Continue to dec 1 st at each side every 8 cm until 30 sts remain. When the piece measures 48 cm bind off all sts.
Back (side with flap): Cast on and knit the same as the front. When the piece measures 48 cm dec 1 st at each side = 28 sts. Measure the flap from here. When the flap measures 15 cm bind off 2 sts at each side every other row a total of 4 times, bind off the remaining 12 sts.

Assembly: Sew the front and back together at bottom and sides.
Shoulder strap: Cast on 8 sts and knit stockinette st. When strap measures 140 cm bind off all sts. Fold in half lengthwise and sew edges together to form a long tube. Sew ends of strap at each side of the purse.
Crochet 1 sc in the 5th st from one side of the bound-off edge on flap. Make a ch 50 cm long, then 1 sc in 8th st from same side of the bound-off edge = loop. Make a pompom approx. 10 cm in diameter – see instructions on page 29, and tie pompom to center of loop. Now felt the purse – see instructions above.


STRIPED PURSE
Measurements:
Before felting:
29 cm wide x 60 cm high [11?3/8" x 23?5/8"]
After felting:
24 cm wide x 32 cm high [9.5" x 12?5/8"]

Materials: SNOW
100 gr nr 3, brown
100 gr nr 5, turquoise
100 gr nr 6, olive
100 gr nr 25, green

DROPS 8 mm [US 11] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge:
Before felting: 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.
After felting: 13.5 sts x 28 rows (25 rows on strap).


Felting: The purse is felted in the washing machine on regular cycle with warm water and a small amount of detergent.

Purse: The bag is worked from bottom upwards with side seam on right-hand side and seam at the bottom. Cast on 65 sts with green and knit stockinette st. When the piece measures 20 cm change to turquoise. When the piece measures 39 cm change to olive. When the piece measures 58 cm change to brown and knit 2 rows garter st and then bind off all sts.
Shoulder strap: Cast on 8 sts with brown and knit stockinette st until strap measures 120 cm, bind off all sts.

Assembly: Fold the purse in half and sew side seams. Sew bottom seam. Sew strap ends at each side on the inside of the purse – sew halfway down on the olive stripe.
Fringe: Fasten 8 fringe tufts around the brown stripe at top as follows: cut 4 strands 35 cm long in brown, fold in half and pull folded end through the bound-off edge, pull ends through loop.
Now felt the purse as explained above. After felting – when the purse is still wet – fold half the olive stripe to right side.

AFTER FELTING:
If the piece is not felted enough and is too big: Wash the piece one more time in the washing machine while it is still wet add a terry towel that measures approx. 50 x 70 cm = 19 3/4" x 27 1/2" - NOTE: Do not use a short program.
If the piece has been felted too much and is too small: While the piece is still wet stretch it to the correct measurements, if the piece is dry, make sure to soak it first.
Remember: All subsequent washes are as a normal wool garment.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 02.11.2021
Correction under assembly.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (29)

country flag Sigrid wrote:

Hallo, ich möchte diese Tasche ein wenig in der Größe verändern-sie soll nach dem Filzen ca. 40x40x7 cm haben! Die Maschenprobe stimmt überein…aber mit wievielen Maschen und Reihen muss ich nun arbeiten??? Herzliche Grüße Sigrid

20.01.2023 - 12:08

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sigrid, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage umrechnen - gerne kann Ihnen aber Ihr DROPS Händler damit - auch per Telefon oder per E-Mail - weiterhelfen. Danke im voraus für Ihr Verständnis. Viel Spaß beim stricken und filzen!

20.01.2023 - 16:36

country flag Anki wrote:

Hej! Hur långt blir locket och hur lång blir remmen efter tovning? efter tovning?

27.01.2022 - 18:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anki, det kommer helt an på filteprocessen og den er forskellig fra farve til farve og fra maskine til maskine, men du kan altid prøve at forme og trække i arbejdet når det er vådt :)

28.01.2022 - 10:50

country flag Corine Hakkesteegt wrote:

De vraag is eerder gesteld maar ik blijf het niet snappen. Als ik volgens de instructies brei heb ik 1 lap van 63 cm breed en 66 cm lang. Hoe moet ik dan vouwen zodat ik alleen een zijnaaad naai en niet een bodem naad?

10.10.2021 - 16:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Corine,

Volgens mij klopt het inderdaad niet en moet je de onderkant en één zijkant dichtnaaien. Ik stuur je vraag door naar de ontwerpafdeling om hier naar te kijken zodat de beschrijving aangepast kan worden.

22.10.2021 - 18:03

country flag Beatrix Kastrun wrote:

Hallo - ich stricke gerade die Tasche mit den Streifen und mir ist leider unklar, was der Satzteil "auf der rechten Seite hat sie eine Seitennaht" bedeutet. Ebenso verstehe ich nicht was mit ""Tasche doppelt falten" gemeint ist....die beiden Aussagen hängen wohl zusammen und begründen mein "Nichtverstehen". Hat die Tasche wirklich nur EINE Seitennaht? Was ist damit gemeint? Danke im voraus für die Antwort. Herzlichen Gruß

13.08.2021 - 07:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Kastrun, die Tasche wird in einem Teil gestrickt (= von oben nach unten ("Boden" der Tasche) und dann wieder von unten nach oben. Die Tasche falten Sie dann doppelt um die Seiten (also 1 Naht bei jeder Seite) zusammenzunähen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.08.2021 - 07:38

country flag Joelle Duchemin wrote:

Hello. I think the measurements for the striped bag are wrong. You say to cast off after 58cm plus 2 rows but that means that before felting, the bag will only be 30cm tall. But 30cm is the measurement after felting so how long should the bag be before I cast off?

24.05.2021 - 23:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Duchemin measurements are correct, the felted striped bag is 60 cm high before felting (= 58 cm + 2 rows + 1 cast off row = approx. 60 cm) and after sewing and felting, bag wil be approx 32 cm high. Happy knitting!

25.05.2021 - 09:16

country flag Caroline Ludwig wrote:

Muss ich die Abnahme innerhalb der 15cm für Klappe machen oder weiterstricken und dann in jeder 2.Reihe 2 Maschen abketteln und das dann 4 mal? Das geht nicht so genau aus der Anleitung hervor.

21.03.2021 - 14:20

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ludwig, ketten Sie 2 Maschen am Anfang der nächsten 8 Reihen (= 2 Maschen beidseitig 4 Mal), dann bleiben 12 Maschen; die aufeinmal abgekettet werden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.03.2021 - 08:15

country flag Zabe wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas bien comment coudre le sac. Si je comprends bien, je le plie en deux dans le sens de la largeur, donc, il n’y aura qu’une couture sur un côté et dans le fond du sac. D’autre part, pour feutrer, quelle doit être la température de l’eau et je prends une lessive ordinaire ? Merci beaucoup de votre aide.

21.11.2019 - 22:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Zabe, le sac rayé se tricote en un long rectangle que l'on plie en double et on fait les coutures des côtés (jusqu'à la rayure olive). Le sac uni se compose de 2 rectangles que l'on coud en bas (= fond du sac) et sur les côtés. Vous trouverez ici plein d'infos utiles sur le feutrage. Bon tricot!

22.11.2019 - 08:12

country flag Susan Vegsund wrote:

For the striped purse, which direction is the fabric folded? The instructions to sew the side seams indicates it is folded lengthwise. Folding side to side would mean sewing one side seam and the bottom seam. Which is correct?

09.05.2019 - 17:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Vesund, when you have worked the long rectangle for the bag (= 120 cm), fold it double so that the cast on edge and the cast off edge will be both at the top of the bag (opening of the bag) = bag is now 60 cm hight and sew each side (from cast on/cast off edge to the middle of rectangle (beg/end of rows) on each side. Happy knitting!

10.05.2019 - 08:49

country flag Maryxmas wrote:

Bonjour, Je veux tricoter le premier sac en Big Delight. J'ai fait mon échantillon, et j'obtiens 8 cm de large et 10 cm de haut. Est-il préférable d'augmenter le nombre de mailles ou d'augmenter la taille des aiguilles ? Merci pour votre réponse.

08.02.2019 - 22:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Maryxmas, ces deux sacs se tricotent en DROPS Eskimo (= groupe de fils E) alors que Big Delight appartient au groupe de fils C, vous pouvez utiliser Big Delight en alternative à Eskimo en utilisant 2 fils Big Delight ou bien plus simplement consulter nos modèles de sacs feutrés du groupe C. Bon tricot!

11.02.2019 - 08:09

country flag Brigitte wrote:

Hallo, bei der gestreiften Tasche sind die angeschlagenen 65 Maschen ausreichend?

09.01.2019 - 20:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Brigitte, sollte Ihre Maschenprobe stimmen, dann genügen die 65 Maschen für die Tasche. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.01.2019 - 09:17