DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.05£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS Crochet jacket in Paris, Brushed Alpaca Silk and Safran. Size: XS - XXL

DROPS 95-35
DROPS design model no W-334
Yarn group C
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Size: XS-S – M – L – XL – XXL

Materials: DROPS Paris from Garnstudio
550-600-650-750-800-900 g colour no. 25, moss green
and use:
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 16, moss green (for borders)
and use:
DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
Remnants of colours in for example light blue, orange, light purple, apple green and blue-purple

Drops Crochet Hook size 5 mm
Drops Crochet Hook size 3 mm (for buttons)
3 buttons (diam 2 cm) for crochet covers

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.05£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet Gauge: width of 12 dc/dtr and length of 4 rows of pattern (i.e. 1 row of dc + 1 row dtr x 4) using crochet hook size 5 = 10 x 10 cm.

Crochet info: At the beginning of each row of dc replace the 1st dc with ch 1, and at the beginning of each row of dtr replace the first dtr with ch 4. Finish each row of dc with 1 dc in 4th ch from beginning of previous row. Finish each row of dtr with 1 dtr in 1st ch from previous row.

Pattern: *1 row of dc, 1 row of dtr*, repeat from *-* until finished measurements. Note! Crochet in each st and not in between.

Decreasing tips: Only dec in rows of dtr. Decreasing several dtr:
Dec as follows at beginning of row: replace 1 dtr with a sl st.
Dec as follows at end of row: Turn the piece when number of dtr to be dec are left on row.
Decreasing 1 dtr:
Dec 1 dtr by crocheting 2 dtr together as follows: crochet 1 dtr but wait with last yo and pull through (= 2 st on hook), crochet 1 dtr and pull thread through all sts on hook.

Increasing tips: Increase 1 dc/dtr by crocheting 2 dc/dtr in last st from previous row. Increase several dc/dtr as follows: At the end of the row of dc before increases are to be made, crochet ch corresponding number of dtr to be increased + 4 ch to turn with – i.e. if you are to increase 4 dtr crochet 7 ch, turn the piece, crochet 1 dtr in 5th ch from the hook and then 1 dtr in each of the next 2 ch, continue on row.

Measuring tips: Because of the weight of the yarn, all measurements should be made while the garment is hanging.
-----------------------------------------


Back piece: Crochet loosely 55-63-71-80-87-98 ch (inclusive of 4 ch to turn with) using hook size 5 and Paris.
Crochet the 1st row as follows: 1 dtr in the 5th. ch from the hook, 1dtr in the next ch *skip 1ch, 1 dtr in the next 3 ch* repeat from *-* and finish with 1 dtr in the last ch (for size L finish with 1 dtr in each of the last 2 ch)= 40-46-52-59-64-72 dtr, turn the piece. Continue in pattern – see explanation above. When the piece measures approx 12 cm inc a dtr each side on every 8-8-9-12-12-12 cm a total of 3-3-3-2-2-2 times – see Increasing tips above = 46-52-58-63-68-76 dc/dtr. When the piece measures approx 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm dec off for armhole each side on every dtr row –see Decreasing tips - as follows: 4 dtr 0-0-0-1-1-1 times, 3 dtr 0-1-1-0-0-1 times, 2 dtr 1-0-1-1-2-2 times and 1 dtr 0-1-1-2-2-2 times = 42-44-46-47-48-50 dtr left. Cut the thread when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm. Insert a marking thread on each side of the middle 12-12-12-13-14-14 sts (= neck).

Right front: Crochet loosely 19-22-25-29-31-34 ch (inclusive of 4 ch to turn with) using hook size 5 and Paris.
Crochet 1st row as follows: 1 dtr in the 5th ch from the hook, *skip 1ch, 1 dtr in the next 3 ch* repeat from *-* but for size XS + XL finish with a dtr in the last 5 ch (instead of the last 3 ch) and for size S + XXL finish with a dtr in the last 4 ch = 13-15-17-20-22-24 dtr, turn the piece.
Read all of the following before continuing:
Front edges: Continue in pattern, at the same time inc towards mid front on every row of dtr – see Increasing tips above - as follows: 4 dtr 1 time, 3 dtr 1 time and 1 dtr 4-5-6-6-7-9 times. After the last inc insert a marking thread within the 4 outermost sts towards mid front – let the thread follow the piece as you progress.
Increases at side: At the same time, when piece measures 12 cm inc as described for back piece.
Collar: At the same time when piece measures approx 30-32-34-36-38-40 cm inc for collar mid front: 1 dtr on every row of dtr a total of 6 times.
Armhole: At the same time when piece measures approx 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm dec for armhole as described for back piece.
When the inc for collar are complete (piece measures approx 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm), dec 13-13-13-13-14-14 dtr towards mid front for neck and dec for neckline on every row of dtr as follows: 2 dtr 1 time and 1 dtr 1 time = 15-16-17-17-17-18 dc/dtr left on shoulder. Continue until piece measures approx 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm (make sure it’s the same as back piece) and cut the thread.

Left front piece, Crochet as right front piece, but mirrored.

Sleeve: Crochet 36-38-39-40-42-42 ch (incl 1 ch to turn with) using hook size 5 and Paris.
Crochet the 1st row as follows: 1 dc in the 2nd ch from the hook, *skip 1ch, 1 dc in the next 3 ch* repeat from *-* but for size XS + L finish with 1 dc in the last 5 ch (instead of the last 3 ch), and size M finish with 1 dc in the last 4 ch = 28-29-30-31-32-32 dc, turn the piece. Crochet 1 dc in each dc from previous row. When piece measures 7 cm insert a marking thread in piece (marks folding edge) and measure piece from this point from now on. When piece measures 7 cm continue in pattern as on back and front pieces. When piece measures approx 14-16-16-17-17-19 cm inc 1 dc/dtr each side on every 7-6-5-4-3.5-2.5 cm a total of 6-6-7-8-9-10 times – see Increasing tips = 40-41-44-47-50-52 dc/dtr. When piece measures 51-49-49-47-48-45 cm dec for sleeve cap each side on every row of dtr as follows: 3 dtr 1 time, 2 dtr 1 time and 1 dtr each side until piece measures approx 56-57-57-57-58-58 cm. Cut the thread.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams – the shoulder on back piece ends by the marking thread. Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams – leave approx 4 cm at sleeve edges for slit.

Collar: Crochet approx 28 to 36 dc round the neck using crochet hook size 5 and Paris – crochet from the right side and start by marking thread on right front piece, crochet round neck and finish by marking thread on left front piece. Crochet pattern. When collar measures 3 cm inc 5 dc/dtr evenly along neck edge on back piece (inc 1 dc/dtr by crocheting 2 dc/dtr in same st). Repeat the increase when collar measures 8 cm. When collar measures approx 9-10 cm cut the thread.

Crochet border: Crochet a border round all edges including the sleeve edges on crochet hook size 5 and Brushed ALpaca Silk as follows: 1dc in the first st, *1 ch, skip approx 1 cm (the edge should be nice and straight not wavy), 1 dc in the next st.* repeat from *-* and finish with 1 ch in first dc from beginning of round.

Crochet buttons: Crochet button covers using crochet hook size 3.5 and remnants of Safran (change colour for each round).

Colour suggestion 1: 1st round: light blue, 2nd round: light purple, 3rd round: orange, 5th round: Apple green
Colour suggestion 2: 1st round: orange, 2nd round: light purple, 3rd round: apple green, 4th round: blue-purple, 5th round: orange
Colour suggestion 3: 1st round: Apple green, 2nd round: orange, 3rd round: blue-purple, 4th and 5th round: light blue

1 button: 2 ch, 8 dc in the first of the ch, 1 sl st in 1st dc (= 1st round)
2nd round: 2 dc in each dc and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beginning of round (= 16 dc)
3rd + 4th round: 1 dc in each dc and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beginning of round (= 16 dc)
5th round: 1 dc in every other dc and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beginning of round (= 8 dc)
Put buttons in cover, sew round the opening and fasten thread. Place buttons on left front piece, the top one approx 1 cm under the collar and the lower one approx 20 to 26 cm from the bottom edge.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 31.05.2018
DROPS Vienna has been replaced by DROPS Alpaca Silk, and amount adjusted accordingly. The section regarding colour suggestions for the button covers has been added

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Annetta wrote:

Deze katoen 'paris' splijt erg met haken. Wat voor soort haaknaald kan ik het beste gebruiken om dit te voorkomen of andere suggesties?

26.08.2015 - 12:19

country flag Annetta wrote:

Hoe valt dit vestje qua maat, groot of klein... Wie heeft hier ervaring mee?

31.07.2015 - 22:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Anetta. Met de correcte stekenverhouding kom je uit met de afmetingen zoals vermeld in de maatschema onderaan. Veel haakplezier.

03.08.2015 - 13:43

country flag Sharon wrote:

Why doesn't the "print pattern" option work? I keep getting a advertisement for wool when I click on it. It's not very easy trying to follow a patter on screen....

15.05.2015 - 08:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, in this new window, you will see another link "Continue to print the pattern", please click on this link to launch printing. Happy crocheting!

15.05.2015 - 09:20

country flag Mary wrote:

Hi, Would you have the crochet pattern in chart format soon ? Somehow I cannot crochet with written pattern but only with chart. Have a nice day.

31.03.2015 - 20:34

country flag Ellen wrote:

Hallo, ik heb met veel'plezier het vestje gehaakt en het ziet er prachtig uit. Ik ben het nu in elkaar aan het zetten maar vind dat lastig met die stokjes! Er onstaan bijvoorbeeld bij de mouwinzet grote gaten tussen het stokje dat je gebruikt voor de naad en dat daarnaast. Nog tips daarvoor?

14.03.2015 - 09:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Ellen. Ik heb helaas niet tips voor je omdat ik op afstand niet kan inschatten hoe het eruitziet en wat je doet. Ik zou aanraden - als je kan - om langs je verkooppunt te gaan en horen of zij kunnen helpen. Veel plezier mee.

24.03.2015 - 15:34

country flag Pauline wrote:

Ik heb het idee dat er een fout in het patroon zit. Bij de beschrijving van de mouw staat dat je moet minderen. Je hebt 28-32 steken maar dan ineens staat er zie tips meerderen = 40 - 52 steken. Lees ik dit nu verkeerd of is het inderdaad een fout?

21.11.2014 - 23:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Pauline. Je hebt gelijk. Het moet meerderen zijn. Ik heb het patroon aangepast. Bedankt voor het melden.

27.11.2014 - 16:00

country flag Larraine Preager wrote:

I am trying to map out incs and decs before I right front. Following the pattern as I understand it, I end up with 15dtrs at the end instead of 17dtrs - I am following size L. To the 20 dtrs, I am adding 4, 3, 1dtr x 6 : side inc I am adding 1dtr x 2 on one side only as it is a 'half piece': collar I am adding 1dtr x 6: armhole I am decreasing 4, 2, 1dtr x 2 : neckline I am decreasing 13, 2dtrs x 2, 1 which leaves me with 15 dtrs. somewhere I have lost 2 stitches?

08.11.2014 - 14:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Preager, number of sts in size L is correct: 17 sts + (Inc towards mid front: 13 sts) + Inc towards side (+3) + Inc for collar (+6) + dec for armhole (= 8) - dec for neck (13) - dec for neckline (3) = 17+13+3+6-8-13-3= 15sts. Happy crocheting!

10.11.2014 - 09:07

country flag Johanna wrote:

Har virkat första framstycket två gånger upp till avmaskningen för halsen eftersom det fattades 6 maskor första gången. Gör det den här gången också. Vad kan vara fel då?

24.04.2014 - 22:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Johanna. Hvilken str haekler du? Saa kan jeg regne efter og hjaelpe dig :-) ?

25.04.2014 - 13:48

country flag Malin wrote:

Jag virkar framstycke och ska öka 4 dst första gången. läser Ökningstips: - ska det inte vara 8 lm? och hur gör man sen på nästa varv med fm? man har ju som en stor båge bara och inga 4 dst.

07.04.2013 - 19:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Malin. Nej, fordi du erstatter den förste dst med 3 lm og virkar 1 dst i 5:e, 6:e og 7:e l = 4 dst

19.12.2013 - 09:55

Steinmetz Carole wrote:

Gefällt mir sehr gut . suche alle modelle grösse 46-48

29.03.2012 - 12:32