DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 60.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 95-5
JACKET
Size: S – M – L – XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 86-96-104-114-126 cm / 34"-37 3/4"-41"-45"-49½"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64 cm / 22"-22 3/4"-23½"-24½"-25 1/4"


Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
200-200-200-250-250 g color no 2921, raspberry
200-200-200-250-250 g color no 3770, dark rose
200-200-200-250-250 g color no 3620, red 22
and use:
DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes, color no 08, red

DROPS straight needles size 7 mm / US 10½
DROPS crochet hook size 7mm/K/10.5 (for borders)
DROPS wooden button, no. 537, 2 pcs

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 60.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 13 sts x 16 rows with 3 strands Alpaca in stockinette stitch on needle size 7 mm / US 10½ = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''

Decreasing tips (applies to armhole): Decrease inside 4 sts from the right side.
Dec as follows after 4 sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
Dec as follows before 4 sts: K2 tog.

Back piece:
Cast on 52-58-64-70-79 sts (includes 1 edge st each side, edge sts are knitted in garter st throughout) on needle size 7 mm/US 10½ with 1 strand of each color (= 3 strands).
Work in stockinette sts.
When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'' inc 1 st each side on every 9 cm / 3½'' a total of 3 times = 58-64-70-76-84 sts.
When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41 cm / 14½"-15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8" bind off 3-4-5-6-7 sts each side for armhole, and then continue to dec 1 st each side – see Decreasing tips above – on every 4th row a total of 3-4-5-6-8 times = 46-48-50-52-54 sts.
When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'' bind off the middle 16-16-16-18-18 sts for neck = 15-16-17-17-18 sts left on each shoulder. Work each shoulder separately.
Bind off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64 cm / 22"-22 3/4"-23½"-24½"-25 1/4".

Right Front:
Cast on 6-9-12-15-19 sts (includes 1 edge st at side) with 1 strand of each color.
Read all of the following section before continuing:

Continue in stockinette st and inc towards mid front on every other row as follows:
4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 7 times.
Then inc on every 4th row: 1 st 3 times.
At the same time when piece measures 10 cm / 4'' inc at side as described for back piece. After all inc have been made there are 32-35-38-41-45 sts on row and piece measures approx 30 cm / 11 3/4''.
Collar: When piece measures 35 cm / 13 3/4'' inc 1 st for collar mid front, repeat on every 4th row a total of 4 times.
Armhole: At the same time when piece measures 37-38-39-40-41 cm / 14½"-15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8" dec for armhole as described for back piece.
After all decreases and increases have been made for armhole and collar there are 30-31-32-33-34 sts on needle.
When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64 cm / 22"-22 3/4"-23½"-24½"-25 1/4" bind off 15-16-17-17-18 sts for shoulder = 15-15-15-16-16 sts left for collar.
Continue over these sts as follows, starting from front edge: *4 rows over all sts, 2 rows over only the 10 sts towards mid front*, repeat from *-* until collar measures 6-6-6-7-7 cm / 2½"-2½"-2½"-2 3/4"-2 3/4". Put sts on a holder.

Left front piece:
As right front piece, but mirrored.

Sleeve:
Cast 30-32-34-36-38 sts (includes 1 seam st each side) on needle size 7 mm/US 10½ with 1 strand in each color (= 3 strands).
K1 row (= RS), P1 row (= WS), K2 rows, and then continue in stockinette sts.
When sleeve measures 10 cm / 4'', inc 1 st each side, repeat on every 5-4-4-3.5-3 cm / 2"-1½"-1½"-1 1/4"-1 1/8" a total of 8-9-9-10-11 times = 46-50-52-56-60 sts.
When piece measures 48-47-46-44-43 cm / 19"-18½"-18"-17 1/4"-17" bind off for sleeve cap in beg of every row, each side as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 0-1-2-3-4 times, and then 2 sts each side until piece measures 54 cm / 21 1/4'', now bind off 3 sts each side and bind off remaining sts when sleeve measures approx 56 cm / 22''.

Assembly:
Sew shoulder seams. Sew collar together mid back by joining sts from holders and sew collar to back piece.

Crochet border round the opening:
Start mid back. With Snow crochet as follows: 1 sc in first st, *3 ch, 1 dc in first ch, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st*, repeat from *-* round the whole jacket and finish with 1 sl st in first st from beginning of round. Crochet a similar border round sleeve edges.
Note! The border should be even and not wavy.

Sew sleeve and side seams within 1 edge st. Set in sleeves. Sew on buttons – the top one should be 1 cm / 3/8'' below the start of increases for collar and the 2nd one 8-10 cm / 3"-4" below the 1st. Use crochet border as buttonholes.


BELT:
Measurements: approx 8 x 90 cm / 3" x 35½"

Materials: DROPS Paris from Garnstudio
100g color no 44, brown
and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
50 g color no 23, brown

DROPS crochet hook size 6 mm / J/10
DROPS wooden button, no. 536, 2 pcs

BELT:
With hook size 6 mm/ J/10 and 1 strand of Paris and 1 strand of Cotton Viscose chain 4 and form a ring with a sl st in 1st ch.
1st row: 4 ch (equals 1 dc + 1 ch), 1 dc in ring, *1 dc, 1 ch and 1 dc (= 1 dc-group) in ring*, repeat from *-* one more time, turn the piece
2nd row: 3 ch (equals 1 dc), 1 dc, 1 ch and 1 dc (= 1 dc-group) in ch in first dc-group, *1 dc, 1 ch and 1 dc (= 1 dc-group) in next dc-group*, repeat from *-* one more time and finish with 1 dc in 3rd ch from beginning of previous row, turn the piece.
Insert a marker and measure piece from this point from now on!
3rd row: 4 ch (equals 1 dc + 1 ch), 1 dc, 1 ch and 1 dc in ch in first dc-group, *1 dc, 1 ch and 1 dc in ch in next dc-group*, repeat from *-* one more time and finish with 1 dc, 1 ch and 1 dc in 3rd ch from beginning of previous row = 4 dc-groups + 1 dc, turn the piece.
4th row: ch 4, 1 dc, 1 ch and 1 dc in ch in first dc-group, *1 dc, 1 ch and 1 dc in ch in next dc-group*, repeat from *-* two more times, turn the piece.
Repeat 4th row until piece measures approx 90 cm / 35½'', or desired length.
Now crochet as follows:
1st row: ch 3, *1 dc in ch in first dc-group, but don’t make last yo and pull through (= 2 sts on hook), crochet 1 dc in gap before next dc-group, and now pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook*, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, but the 4th time, crochet dc in 3rd ch from beginning of previous row, turn the piece
2nd row: ch 3, crochet 1 dc between the first 2 dc but don’t make last yo and pull through (= 2 sts on hook), crochet 1 dc between the next 2 dc and now pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook, 1 dc in next gap but don’t make last yo and pull through (= 2 sts on hook), 1 dc between the next 2 dc and now pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook, finish with 1 dc in 3rd ch from beginning of previous row, turn the piece
3rd row: ch 3, 1 dc between the 2 middle dc, 1 dc in 3rd ch from beginning of previous row, turn the piece
Crochet 3 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beginning of previous row. Fasten off.

Sew 2 buttons on one side of belt, try on the belt and see photo for positioning. Use gap between dc’s as buttonholes.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Afrodite wrote:

What does it mean "put sts on thread"? in the collar section.

26.03.2020 - 08:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Afrodite, this means you will put them aside and don't work them anymore until it will be asked to, you can slip them on a thread(see video below) or on a stitch holder. Happy knitting!

26.03.2020 - 10:26

country flag Stefania wrote:

Buongiorno, Non riesco a capire il seguente passaggio: Continuare su queste m. come segue: *4 f. su tutte le m., 2 f. solo sulle 10 m. verso il centro davanti *, ripetere *-* fino a quando il colletto misura 6-6-6-7-7 cm. Mettere le m. su un filo di scarto. ho 15 maglie sul ferro, lavoro 4 ferri poi dice di lavorare 2 ferri su 10 maglie e le 5 che avanzano? Grazie mille Stefania

13.12.2018 - 11:42

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Stefania. Deve lavorare le 10 maglie e poi girare il lavoro (senza quindi lavorare le altre 5) e lavorare il ferro di ritorno sulle 10 m lavorate. E' la tecnica dei ferri accorciati. Le alleghiamo un video che può aiutarla. Buon lavoro!

13.12.2018 - 14:19

country flag Dagmar wrote:

Ich möchte die Jacke mit einer dünneren Wolle stricken und habe aufgrund der Maschenprobe errechnet, dass ich dann die Maschenzahlen der Größe XL machen müsste um ein S zu bekommen. Ist das einfach so umzusetzen oder muss ich dabei noch was beachten?

18.10.2018 - 06:32

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Dagmar, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen, nehmen Sie bitte Kontakt mit dem Laden auf, wo Sie Ihre Wolle gekauft haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.10.2018 - 09:41

country flag Gloria Sanders wrote:

I would like to make this jacket,but not with triple the yarn. What yarn is suitable as a single strand for this sweater? Would it be a worsted weight or dk weight? So many patterns call for 2 and 3 strands of yarns and I prefer only working with one strand. It would be nice to also print out the yarn option for using one yarn variety also,for all of those patterns. It also becomes too costly! Thank you for taking the time to answer this question. It is very much appreciated!

30.08.2015 - 00:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Sanders, please click here for alternatives between groups, and remember your DROPS store will always help you with tips & advices, you can contact either per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

31.08.2015 - 10:59

country flag Barbara wrote:

Hallo, na welke steek moet ik meerderen bij het rechtervoorpand? Het meerderen start direct in de 2e nld maar als ik na de eerste steek meerder begint het werk lelijk te trekken ( ben nu op ca. 6 cm hoogte). Graag uw advies..dank!

17.06.2015 - 22:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Barbara. Je kan meerderen zoals je het zelf het mooiste vindt. Je kan bijvoorbeeld meerderen met een omslag tussen de 1e en 2e st middenvoor en deze verdraait breien in de volgende nld - of je kan de meerdering doen door nieuwe st op te zetten langs het middenvoor.

18.06.2015 - 15:26

country flag Josefine wrote:

Liebes DROPS-Team, die Jacke ist sehr schön geworden. Nur die Häkellange bereitet mir Probleme. Sie wellt sich tatsächlich sehr (so wie die Strickstücke vorher auch bereits schon). Wie kann ich das verhindern?

09.01.2015 - 14:53

DROPS Design answered:

Sie können die Jacke anfeuchten und auf einer geeigneten Unterlage mit Stecknadeln feststecken und trocknen lassen, dann sollte sich das Einrollen geben. Wenn sich der Häkelrand nach oben und unten wellt, haben Sie ihn vielleicht zu dicht gehäkelt, d.h. dann müssten Sie ggf ab und zu eine M mehr überspringen, oder, falls er sich sehr wellt, eine kleinere Nadel verwenden.

11.01.2015 - 16:05

country flag Dagmar wrote:

Hallo,in der Anleitung für das rechte Vorderteil steht :"danach alle 4.Ndl"...und für den Kragen steht auch "alle 4.Ndl"..sind dort die Reihen gemeint ?Nicht die Nadeln ?Müßte die Abkürzung Ndl. eigentlich R für Reihe heißen ?Viele Grüße,vennlige hilser fra tyskland

27.01.2013 - 21:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Dagmar, das stimmt genau, es müsste R (Reihe) heissen. Leider sind unsere älteren Anleitungen noch so übersetzt.

29.01.2013 - 08:16

country flag Heidi wrote:

Hva skal man gjøre med kragen? Den skal jo bare felles av på en tråd, men så ser jeg ikke hva man skal gjøre ved montering? Noen som skal hjelpe her

03.12.2012 - 22:03

DROPS Design answered:

Du syr m fra kragen sammen. Se under montering: "sy kragen sammen midt bak med maskesting og sy kragen fast til bakstk med sømmen ut mot retten."

04.12.2012 - 15:04

country flag Susanne wrote:

Vilken härlig kofta! Den skulle kunna bli en sommarfavorit.

19.02.2006 - 09:37

country flag annemarie wrote:

Jeg elsker at hækle! Denne smukke jakke må jeg lave!

05.01.2006 - 12:52