DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.15 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 2.15€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
DROPS 86-10
DROPS 86-10
HEADBAND:
Size: One size

Materials: 1 skein DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio

DROPS 4.5 mm needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Accessories Headbandsrib
DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.15 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 2.15€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 18 sts x 23 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm

Headband:
Start at center back. Cast on 19 sts.
Work in rib as follows:
Row 1 (right side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * K 2, P 1 * repeat a total of 5 times – finish row with K 2 and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Row 2 (wrong side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * P 2, K 1 * repeat a total of 5 times – finish row with P 2 and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Make all incs on right side rows, inc by P 2 sts into 1 P stitch.
When the piece measures 8 cm all P 1 to P 2 = 24 sts.
When the piece measures 14 cm all P 2 to P 3 = 29 sts.
When the piece measures 18 cm all P 3 to P 4 = 34 sts.
When the piece measures 21 cm inc all P 4 to P 5 = 39 sts.
When the piece measures 24 cm place a marker = this is the center of headband.
Now reverse shaping – measure from marker.
Make all decs on right side rows, dec by P2 tog.
When the piece measures 3 cm dec all P 5 to P 4 = 34 sts.
When the piece measures 6 cm dec all P 4 to P 3 = 29 sts.
When the piece measures 10 cm dec all P 3 to P 2 = 24 sts.
When the piece measures 16 cm dec all P 2 to P 1 = 19 sts.
When the piece measures a total of 48 cm bind off and sew to cast on edge.
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SHAWL :

Measurements:
Length: 100 cm
Width: 205 cm

Materials: VIENNA from Garnstudio
200 gr nr 43, light brown

DROPS 15 mm needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 5 sts x 9 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm (this is loosely knit)

Shawl:
Cast on 4 sts and knit garter st, increasing 1 st at one side every other row. Inc by knitting 2 sts in 1 st. Continue incs until there are 50 sts, the piece measures approx. 102 cm.
Now dec on the same side as incs – dec every other row by K 2 tog the 2 outermost sts. Continue dec until 4 sts remain, the piece measures approx. 205 cm, bind off.

Fringe: Fasten fringe tufts along both sides approx. 4-5 cm apart – start at point at lower edge. Cut 6 strands 35 cm long, fold in half, pull folded end through outermost st and pull ends through loop.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (115)

Lynn wrote:

I don't see a yarn size on this pattern. Is it worsted weight?

21.08.2018 - 14:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lynn, the yarn used for this pattern is Alaska, which is aran worsted. You can always check in the yarn section the characteristics of each yarn or group of yarns.

26.08.2018 - 16:30

country flag Lindsay wrote:

This is a beautiful headband, but I really feel like it could have been written way more clearly. I’ve been knitting for years and consider myself to be fairly advanced. I rarely find a pattern anymore that is so convoluted as this one, especially for something so simple in theory. Way to go.

17.08.2018 - 19:50

country flag Denise wrote:

Hi, I am new to knitting. What does "K 1 (edge st knit in garter st)" mean? Do you mean just knit the first stitch? Same question at the end. What does "K 2 and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st)" mean? Do you knit the last 3 stitches? Thank you.

05.08.2018 - 23:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Denise it means that the first and last row on each row is knitter with a garter stitch. In other words, the frirst and the last stitch is always KNITTED from the right and from the wrong side as well. I hope this helped. Happy Knitting.

06.08.2018 - 00:35

Beth wrote:

Thank you for design . It knitted up nicely and hugs the contour of the head.

27.06.2018 - 08:05

country flag Annie wrote:

Make all incs on right side rows, inc by P 2 sts into 1 P stitch. Does that mean increasing by two purl stitches anywhere, where there is a purl stitch across the row? Thanks

12.01.2018 - 22:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Annie, it basically means that you should do the increases on rows you are knitting from the right side. Also, in the rows you do the increases, they are done in every purled segment. The pattern does not specify where, so you can do them anywhere in the purled segment, however I would suggest you do them alternately at the beginning and at the end of each segment with purls. Happy Knitting!

13.01.2018 - 10:01

country flag Andrea wrote:

So once we get to the inc on RS, just to clarify, are we then going k2 p2/3/4/5 on RS to p2 k2/3/4/5 on WS?

15.11.2017 - 06:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Andrea, that's correct, the increase are done in the P-sections seen from RS, so that the number of P sts from RS and K sts from wS will inc (and then decrease on the 2nd half of headband). Happy knitting!

15.11.2017 - 08:55

Katharina Splettstößer wrote:

Diese Anleitung ist nicht gut übersetzt! Anleitung: "Wenn die Arb. 8 cm mißt, alle 1 li. auf 2 li aufnehmen." Hä? Eine völlig unübliche Ausdrucksweise und irreführend. Gemeint ist wohl: Re M re str, aus jeder li M 2 M herausstricken (englisch pfb) 24 M. Wenn die Arb. 14 cm mißt, 1. M re, dann *aus der 1. li M 2 M herausstricken (pfb), 1 M li, 1 M re * 29 M Vielen Dank für die vielen kostenlosen Drops Anleitungen! Katharina

07.10.2017 - 22:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Splettstößer, danke für Ihre Rückmeldung, Anleitung wurde überarbeitet. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.10.2017 - 10:29

country flag Mollie wrote:

My daughter wants a headband like this, but wants ties at the end (maybe cord?). Do you have a pattern like that, or any idea how I could make that?? Thanks!!

02.06.2017 - 14:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mollie! Thank you for your comment, this pattern is a favorite of ours to. If I would want to make this with ties, insted of sewing up at the ends, I would just turn about 0,5 -1 cm the casting on and casting off edges toward the wrong side, sew the edge down with a few stitches. Then make a tie and bull it through the casing I just seved, and tie with the two and two tie-ends held together. I hope this helps. Happy knitting!

08.06.2017 - 07:00

country flag Iris wrote:

Hallo, leider komme ich mit den Abnahmen für die 2. Hälfte des Stirnbandes nicht zurecht. Muss ich linke oder rechte Maschen für die Abnahmen zusammenstricken? LG Iris

14.10.2016 - 08:25

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Iris, Sie müssen die linke Maschen abenehmen, und dies wird spiegelverkehrt gemacht, dh: 1. Abnahme 3 cm nach der Markierung, 2. Abnahme 6 cm nach der Markierung, 3. Abnahme 10 cm nach der Markierung und letzte Abnahme 16 cm nach der Markierung = es bleiben 19 M (2 M re, 1 M li).

14.10.2016 - 09:30

country flag Christina wrote:

Ich habe ein Stirnband mit Brushed Alpaca Silk gemacht - wunderschön und federleicht! Leichter wäre es allerdings geworden, wäre in der Beschreibung angegeben, wie die Rückreihen zu stricken sind. So musste ich es mir aus den Kommentaren raussuchen. Aber das Ergebnis ist super.

18.07.2016 - 11:13