DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 94-6
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-106-116-124 cm / 34½"-37 3/4"-41 3/4"-45 3/4"-48 3/4"
Full length: 66-68-70-73-76 cm / 26"-26 3/4"-27½"-28 3/4"-30"

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
200-250-250-300-300 g color no. 0100, off-white
and use: DROPS Vivaldi from Garnstudio
150-150-200-200-200 g, color no 06, off-white

DROPS straight needles and circular needle size 7 mm / US 10 ½
DROPS crochet hook size 5 mm / H/8 (for button cover)

Accessory: 3 buttons, diam approx 2 cm / 3/4''


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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 13 sts x 19 rows with 1 strand of each yarn quality on needle size 7 mm / US 10 ½ = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''

Garter stitch: Knit all rows

Rib: *K3, P3*, repeat from *-*

Pattern: See diagrams M.1 to M.4. The diagrams show the pattern from the right side.

Decreasing tips (applies to armhole):
Decrease within 1 edge st from the right side.
Dec as follows after 1 edge st: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
Dec as follows before 1 edge st: K2 tog.


Back piece:
Loosely cast on 59-65-71-77-83 sts (includes 1 edge st each side, edge sts are knitted in garter st throughout) on needle size 7 mm /US10½ with 1 strand of each yarn quality (= double strand). Knit 4 rows garter st (1st row = right side)
Read all of the following section before continuing:

Work diagram M.1 as follows: 1 edge st, M.1A over the first 54-60-66-72-78 sts, M.1B (= 3 sts), and 1 edge st.
Continue like this in pattern until piece measures 11 cm / 4½'' (stop after 1 full repeat of M.1).
Knit 4 rows garter st. Then work M.2 as follows: 1 edge st, M.2A (= 4 sts), M.2B over 48-54-60-66-72 sts, M.2C (= 5 sts), 1 edge st.
After 1 repeat of M.2 work 1 row of stockinette sts and continue with M3 as follows: 1 edge st, 4-1-4-1-4 sts in stockinette st, M.3 over 48-60-60-72-72 sts, 5-2-5-2-5 sts in stockinette st, 1 edge st.
Work 4-4-4-5-5 repeats of M.3.
After M.3 the piece measures approx 41-41-41-46-46 cm / 16"-16"-16"-18"-18".
Now purl 1 row from the wrong side and then knit 4 rows in garter st.
Continue in M.1, at the same time when piece measures 47-48-49-51-53 cm / 18½"-19"-19 1/4"-20"-21" bind off for armholes each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-1-3-4 times and 1 st 3-4-4-3-4 times = 47-47-53-53-53 sts – work sts not fitting into pattern in stockinette sts.
When piece measures 52-54-54-56-60 cm / 20½"-21 1/4"-21 1/4"-22"-23½" (stop after 1 full repeat of M.1), work M.4 and then 4 rows in garter st.
Then work M.2 as follows: 1 edge st, M.2A (= 4 sts), M.2B over 36-35-42-42-42 sts, M.2C (= 5 sts), 1 edge st.
After M.2, finish the piece in stockinette st.
Neckline: At the same time when piece measures 64-66-68-71-74 cm / 25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-28"-29 1/8", bind off the middle 11-11-13-13-13 sts for neck and work each side separately.
Continuing dec 1 st at neckline on next row = 17-17-19-19-19 sts left on shoulder.
Bind off when piece measures 66-68-70-73-76 cm / 26"-26 3/4"-27½"-28 3/4"-30".

Right Front:
Loosely cast on 32-32-38-38-44 sts (includes 1edge st at side) on needle size 7 mm/US10½ with 1 strand of each yarn quality (= double strand). Knit 4 rows garter st (1st row = right side).

Read all of the following section before continuing:

Work M.1A with 1 edge st each side.
After M.1 knit 4 rows in garter st. and continue in M.2 as follows: 1 edge st, 3 sts in stockinette st, M.2A (= 4 sts), M.2B over 18-18-24-24-30 sts, M.2C (= 5 sts), 1 edge st.
After 1 repeat of M.2 work 1 row of stockinette sts and then continue with M.3 as follows: 1 edge st, 3-3-0-0-3 sts in stockinette st, M.3 over 24-24-36-36-36 sts, 3-3-0-0-3 sts in stockinette st, 1 edge st.
Work 4-4-4-5-5 repeats of M.3.
Then purl 1 row from the wrong side and knit 4 rows in garter st.
Continue in M.1A, at the same time when piece measures 47-48-49-51-53 cm / 18½"-19"-19 1/4"-20"-21" bind off for armhole as described for back piece – work sts not fitting into pattern in stockinette sts.
When piece measures approx 52-54-54-56-60 cm / 20½"-21 1/4"-21 1/4"-22"-23½" (stop after 1 full repeat of M.1), work M.4 (make sure P is over P), then 4 rows in garter st, then M.2 and then stockinette st until finished measurements
Neckline: At the same time, when piece measures 43-44-45-46-47 cm / 17"-17 1/4"-17 3/4"-18"-18½", dec 1 st towards mid front – see Decreasing tips – 9-6-10-7-10 times as follows: Size S – L – XXL on every 4th row, size M and XL on every 6th row.
Work sts not fitting into pattern in stockinette sts.
After all decreases are complete for armhole and neckline there are 17-17-19-19-19 sts left on shoulder.
Bind off when piece measures 66-68-70-73-76 cm / 26"-26 3/4"-27½"-28 3/4"-30".

Left front piece:
As right front piece, but mirrored.

Sleeve:
Loosely cast on 32-32-38-38-38 sts (inclusive of 1 edge st each side) on needle size 7 with 1 strand of each yarn quality (= double strand). Knit 4 rows garter st (1st row = right side).

Read all of the following section before continuing:
Work M.1 as follows: 1 edge st, M1.A over 30-30-36-36-36 sts, 1 edge st.
Continue in pattern like this until sleeve measures 14 cm / 5½'' (stop after 1 full repeat of M.1).
After M.1 work M.4 and then 5 rows in garter st.
Then work M.3 as follows: 1 edge st, 3-3-0-0-0 sts in stockinette st, M.3 over 24-24-36-36-36 sts, 3-3-0-0-0 sts in stockinette st , 1 edge st.
After 3 repeats of M.3, purl 1 row from the wrong side and knit 4 rows in garter st, and work M.2 - work sts not fitting into pattern in stockinette sts.
After M.2, work 1 row of stockinette sts and then work 1 repeat of M.3 and finish the sleeve in stockinette st.
Increases: At the same time, when sleeve measures 18 cm / 7'' inc 1 st each side and repeat on every 4.5-3.5-4-3-2.5 cm / 1 3/4"-1 1/4"-1½"-1 1/8"-7/8" a total of 7-8-7-9-10 times = 46-48-52-56-58 sts – work the new sts in stockinette sts until they fit into pattern.
Sleeve cap: when piece measures 49-47-47-45-44 cm / 19 1/4"-18½"-18½"-17 3/4"-17 1/4" bind off for sleeve cap each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-1-1-1-1 times, 1 st 2-6-5-6-7 times, and then 2 sts each side until piece measures 56 cm / 22'', now bind off 3 sts each side and then bind off when sleeve measures approx 57 cm / 22½''

Assembly:
Sew shoulder seams.
Border: Pick up approx 189 to 219 sts (dividable by 6 + 3) along right front piece, along neckline at back piece and along left front piece using circular needle size 7 mm / US 10 ½ and 1 strand of each yarn quality (= double strand).
K1 row from wrong side and K1 row from the right side.
Continue in Rib with 3 sts in garter st and 3 K sts each side (seen from the right side). When border measures 1.5 cm / ½", make 3 buttonholes on right front band by K 2 tog, yo (make buttonholes in a purled report), the top buttonhole approx 1 cm / 3/8'' from neckline, the lower approx 20 cm / 8'' from bottom edge.
When border measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'', bind off sts on both front pieces up til just above top buttonhole (make sure to bind off a full P or K report).
Continue the Rib over the remaining sts for collar, at the same time putting the outermost 3 sts each side on a holder on every other row a total of 6-6-7-7-7 times.
The Rib now measures 9-9-10-10-10 cm / 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4" where widest.
Put sts from holders on both sides back on needle and bind off in rib.

Crochet button covers:
Use crochet hook size 5 mm/ H/8 and 1 strand of each yarn quality.
1st round: ch 2, 6 sc in the first of the 2 ch just crochet, finish with 1 sl st in the first sc =
2nd round: 2 sc in each sc and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beginning of round
3rd and 4th round: 1 sc in each sc and finish with 1 sl st in first sc form beginning of round
5th round: 1 sc in every other sc and finish with 1 sl st in first sc form beginning of round
Put button in cover, sew round the opening and pull tight.

Set in sleeves.
Sew sleeve and side seams within 1 edge st and sew on buttons.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
symbols = 1 bobble: Work 5 sts in the same st, into front and back of st alternately. Work 4 rows stockinette st on these 5 sts. Now lift 2nd st on right needle over 1st st, 3rd st over 1st st, 4th st over 1 st and 5th st over 1st st = 1 st left
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Sue wrote:

I am confused by Row 5 (bottom up) on M2. M2A (4 st) and M2C (5 st) are included only as a border on each row with M2B (6 st) to be repeated numerous times between M2A and M2C. Yet on Row 5 in the diagram, the two stitch combinations on the diagram include stitches from the two borders - A & C.

08.07.2020 - 00:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sue, on row 5 you work k3, YO (= 4 sts for M.2A), then work the last st of M.2 tog with the first stitch on M.2B (= first st in M.2B) and finish M.2B with a YO, the last stitch in M.2B will be worked tog with the first stitch next M.2B and then M.2C. Happy knitting!

08.07.2020 - 08:19

country flag Maria Rieg wrote:

Das Modell finde ich wunderschön. ich weiß nur nicht, wann ich welche Wolle verarbeiten soll.

17.06.2020 - 18:29

country flag Maria Rieg wrote:

Woran erkenne ich wenn ich das Garn wechseln soll- von Alpaka zu Brushed Alpaka Slk? Vielen Dank

17.06.2020 - 18:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rieg, die ganze Jacke wird mit 1 Faden Alpaca + 1 Faden Brushed Alpaca Silk gestrickt, dh 2 Fädig. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.06.2020 - 09:33

country flag Lucia wrote:

Buongiorno, potrei realizzare questo modello con 2 capi di Fabel o di Delight con ferri 7, naturalmente previa verifica del campione? Grazie❣

15.05.2020 - 16:22

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Lucia, può sostituire il filato verificando che il suo campione corrisponda a quello indicato nel modello. Buon lavoro!

15.05.2020 - 16:44

country flag Lynette Coqui wrote:

If use a double knit yarn how many sts for XL

04.08.2019 - 19:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Coqui, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request. For any further individual assistance please contact the store where you bought the yarn. Thanks for your comprehension. Happy knitting!

07.08.2019 - 10:01

country flag Margo wrote:

The knitting gauge for this cardigan does not correspond with the gauge recommended for this yarn. Just wanted to make sure that this is correct. Would this just be a very loose knit?

25.04.2019 - 09:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Margo, you will work here with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Vivaldi or Brushed Alpaca Silk = 2 strands together with a quite loose tension to give you 13 sts x 19 rows = 10 x 10 cm - make sure to get the correct tension, change needle size if required. Happy knitting!

25.04.2019 - 09:56

country flag Caroline Desterbecq wrote:

Ik doe de M3 anders, want het lukt mij niet, ik doe 1KT, 3 tricotsteek, 24 M3, 3 tricotsteek, 1 KT. want ik krijg geen mooie rechte lijn aan de zijkant.

22.05.2012 - 20:35

country flag Caroline Desterbecq wrote:

Moet ik nu tot 11cm breien met mijn M1 bij mijn voorpand?

22.05.2012 - 16:41

DROPS Design answered:

Ja - net zoals op het achterpand

23.05.2012 - 13:10

country flag DROPS Design NL wrote:

Dus de laatste keer brei je 1 omslag en de st 5 en 6 r: haal 1 r st van de nld, 1 r en haal de afgeh st daarover.

22.05.2012 - 16:34

country flag Caroline Desterbecq wrote:

1 kantst, 3-3-0-0-3 tricotst, M.3 over de volgende 30-30-30-30-40 st, 3-3-0-0-3 tricotst, 1 kantst: klopt niet, M3 24 steken!

22.05.2012 - 16:05

DROPS Design answered:

Het klopt! M.3 = 12 st per herhaling, 30 st = 2,5 keer herhalen. 2 x volledig en laatste keer de eerste 6 st van het motief.

22.05.2012 - 16:32