DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 2.20 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.40CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 94-1
Size: XS - S – M – L – XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 82-92-102-110-120-130 cm / 32 1/4"-36 1/4"-40"-43½"-47 1/4"-51½"
Full length: 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm / 24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''

Materials: DROPS Paris from Garnstudio
550-600-650-700-800-900 g color no. 50, lilac-mix
and use: 50 g color no 17, off white for all sizes (for crochet border)

DROPS pointed needle size 5 mm / US 8.
DROPS pointed and circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 (for Rib)
DROPS crochet hook size 5mm / H/8

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 2.20 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.40CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows on needle size 5 mm/ US 8 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''

Pattern: See diagram M.1. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side


Back piece: Cast on 84-92-100-108-116-124 sts (includes 1edge st each side, edge sts are knitted in garter st throughout) on needle size 5 mm/ US 8 with lilac-mix Paris. Knit stockinette stitch with 1 edge st each side in garter st.
Read all of the following section before continuing:

Decreases at side:
When piece measures 5 cm / 2'' dec 1 st each side and repeat on every 4.-4.5 -4.5-5.-5.-5.5 cm / 1½"-1 3/4"-1 3/4"-2"-2"-2 1/4" a total of 6 times = 72-80-88-96-104-112 sts.
At the same time, when piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'' knit pattern as follows: 1 edge st, 6-4-5-6-4-5 sts in stockinette st, chart M.1 over the next 66-78-84-90-102-108 sts, 6-4-5-6-4-5 sts in stockinette st, 1 edge st.
Knit pattern until piece measures 30 cm / 11 3/4'' and then continue in stockinette st over all sts.
When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm / 13''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½''-15'' , bind off for armhole each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-2-3-4-6 times and 1 st 2-3-4-5-6-5 times = 62-64-66-68-70-72 sts remaining.
When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm / 19 3/4''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8'' bind off the middle 16-16-16-18-18-18 sts for neck and work each side separately. Continuing dec 1 st at neck line on next row = 22-23-24-24-25-26 sts left on each shoulder.
Bind off when piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''.

Right Front:
Cast on 18-20-22-24-26-28 sts (includes 1 edge st at side) on needle size 5 mm/US 8 with lilac-mix Paris. Read all of the following section before continuing:

Work stockinette stitch with 1 edge st at side in garter st and increase towards mid front on every other row as follows (insert a marking thread where the increases start and where they finish – important as you need these markings when knitting the edge): 3 sts 0-0-1-2-3-4 times, 2 sts 3-4-4-3-3-3 times and 1 st 9-9-8-8-7-6 times.

Decreases at side:
At the same time, when piece measures 5 cm / 2'', dec as described for back piece.
At the same time, when piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'' (all inc at mid front have now been done) knit pattern as follows: 1 edge st, 1 stockinette st, chart M.1 over the next 21-27-30-33-36-39 sts, remaining sts in stockinette st. Continue the pattern like this until piece measures 30 cm / 11 3/4'' and finish the piece in stockinette st.
After all inc and dec are complete, there are 27-31-35-38-42-46 sts remaining.
When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm / 13''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½''-15'' from cast-on row, bind off for armhole as described for back piece = 22-23-24-24-25-26 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''.

Left front piece:
As right front piece, but mirrored.

Sleeve:
Cast on 51-51-58-58-58-58 sts (includes1 edge st each side) using pointed needle size 4 mm / US 6 and lilac-mix Paris. Work 2 rows stockinette st and work next row as follows from the right side: 1 edge st, *K3, P4*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st.
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec all P-sections from P4 to P3 = 44-44-50-50-50-50 sts. Continue in Rib until piece measures 15 cm / 6''.
Change to needle size 5 mm / US 8 and continue in stockinette st.
At the same time start inc 1 st each side on 5.-3.5-4.-2.5-2.-1.5 cm / 2"-1 1/4"-1½"-7/8"-3/4"-½" a total of 7-9-8-11-13-15 times = 58-62-66-72-76-80 sts.
When piece measures 50-48-46-45-43-42 cm / 19 3/4"-19"-18"-17 3/4"-17"-16½" bind off for sleeve cap each side on every other row as follows: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 0-2-4-5-7-9 times, and 2 sts each side until piece measures 55 cm / 21½'', now bind off 3 sts each side and bind off rem sts on next row.
Sleeve measures approx 56 cm / 22''

Assembly: Sew shoulder and side seams.

Edge: Pick up approx 330-348-366-384-402-420 sts (dividable by 6) from the right side using circular needle 4mm/US 6 and lilac-mix Paris.
Begin at the bottom mid back and pick up sts all round the opening. Purl 1 round, knit 1 round and continue in Rib: K3, P3.
When Rib measures 4 cm / 1½'', inc all P3 to P4 between the marking threads on front pieces. When Rib measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', inc all P4 to P5 between the marking threads (to ensure the border fits the rounded front pieces). Bind off when Rib measures 12 cm / 4¾''.

Crochet border: With off-white Paris crochet round the knitted rib as follows: 1 sc in first knitted st, *4 ch, 1 dc in 1st ch, skip 3 knitted sts, 1 sc in next st*, repeat from *-*.
Also crochet border round sleeve edges.

Sew sleeve seams and set in sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 16.01.2018
New diagram M.1.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, 1 YO
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (53)

country flag Lisbeth wrote:

Hej. På højre forstykke str. M skal jeg tage ud 3 masker 1 gang , 2 masker 4 gange, 1 maske 8 gange, midt foran. Hvordan tager jeg 3 masker ud, og hvor efter 10 eller 11 maske. Mvh Lisbeth

13.01.2024 - 20:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisbeth, du slår 3 nye masker op sidst på pinden og så 2 masker næste gang osv :)

16.01.2024 - 12:17

country flag Lisbeth wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke, mønstrede rigtigt. Jeg kan ikke får det til at gå op, efter jeg har lukket masker i hvert side, kan jeg ikke strikke 1, kantm, 5 glatstrik og 84 m.1. Mønster, da jeg mangler masker. Skal jeg stadig strikke 1 kantm og 5 glatstrik i hvert side, hele vejen til 30 cm, eller skal jeg fratrække lukkemaskerne fra glatstrik fra 5 til fx 4 osv. Og bevare 84 masker i mønster

23.12.2023 - 20:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisbeth, du fortsætter med mønster, men efterhånden som du tager ind bliver der flere eller færre antal masker i glatstrik (når der ikke er nok masker til mønster, strikkes de øvrige i glatstrik) :)

02.01.2024 - 09:38

country flag Régine wrote:

Bonjour. Si j'ai bien compris pour les premières augmentations dans chaque section de mailles envers (pour les milieux devants) se font seulement sur les coins arrondis et pas sur tout le reste des sections envers ...? Merci . Cordialement à toute l'équipe

09.08.2023 - 17:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Régine, tout à fait, on augmente dans les sections envers des arrondis des devants pour qu'ils gardent une jolie forme arrondie, mais les autres sections envers des côtes se tricotent comme avant en côtes 3 m end/3 m env. Bon tricot!

10.08.2023 - 09:14

country flag Jan Jones wrote:

Hallo Garn Studio, Please can you tell me if it would work to use 2 strands of Drops Loves You 9 (shade grey) instead of Paris yarn. I love your patterns and yarn. I am on my 5th project now and soon to start another. Thank you very much for your help. Best wishes - Jan

04.01.2022 - 08:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Jones, correct, you can replace 1 strand Paris (yarn group C) with 2 strands DROPS Loves you 9 (yarn group A). Read how to calculate the new amount here. Happy knitting!

04.01.2022 - 12:20

country flag Marijke Van Santvoort wrote:

Hallo, Ik ben begonnen met het rugpand, maar heb de indruk dat de maat niet overeenkomt. Mijn confectiemaat is 46. Het achterpand zou ik 124 steken moeten opzetten, maar dat is veel te breed. Zijn hier meer opmerkingen over binnengekomen ? Groeten Marijke

03.05.2021 - 13:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marijke,

Bij de juiste stekenverhouding (17 steken in de breedte = 10 cm) zou je op een breedte van 72 cm moeten komen, wanneer je 124 steken opzet. Controleer even of de stekenverhouding klopt en pas eventueel de naalddikte aan om tot een juiste stekenverhouding te komen.

05.05.2021 - 14:01

country flag Dörge Manuela wrote:

Hallo, wie ist die Zunahme am Vorderteil gemeint? In der Mitte der Maschen oder rechts und links. Vielen Dank

30.04.2021 - 16:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Dörge, die Zunahmen in der Mitte vorne wird am Anfang einer Hin-Reihe beim rechten Vorderteil/am Ende einer Rückreihe beim linken Vorderteil gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.05.2021 - 07:22

country flag Anne Chitwood wrote:

Love your patterns but not easy to follow., the way you write it I have to go back and rewrite. I am older so its a little more confusing to me. Not use to this type of english writing.

02.03.2021 - 20:17

country flag Patricia Rayner wrote:

I cannot understand the fairisle diagram. Where do I read it from - top or bottom? Right or left. In the picture the design is clearly ridges but according to diagram it is knit one side and purl the other side i.e. sticking stitch. The pattern is extremely confusing. I have printed out all the instructions but to no avail.

05.01.2021 - 20:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Patricia, The diagram is read from the bottom up, from right to left on the right side and from left to right on the wrong side. Happy knitting!

06.01.2021 - 06:56

country flag Dea wrote:

Buongiorno, volevo dire che dopo tutte le diminuzioni indicate per la manica , "Quando il lavoro misura 50-48-46-45-43-42 cm intrecciare per l’arrotondamento della manica a ogni lato a f. alterni come segue: 4 m. 1 volta, 3 m. 1 volta, 2 m. 2 volte, 1 m. 0-2-4-5-7-9 volte, e 2 m. a ogni lato fino a quando il lavoro misura 55 cm, ora diminuire 3 m. a ogni lato e intrecciare sul f. successivo. La manica misura circa 56 cm." rimangono 26 m per la taglia M . ^_^

22.10.2019 - 12:10

country flag Dea wrote:

Grazie. Secondo voi dovrei aumentare facendo delle maglie a nuovo? Mi sembra molto strano. Proverò a vedere come viene.

03.09.2019 - 17:28

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Dea. Sono le maglie che verranno poi riprese quando lavorerà il bordo tutto intorno all’apertura. In questo modo eventuali irregolarità o scalini che si creano dove vengono avviate le maglie, si regolarizzeranno. Buon lavoro!

04.09.2019 - 12:50