DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Winter Star

DROPS jacket with Norwegian pattern, trousers, hat and mittens in “BabyMerino”.

DROPS Baby 3-11
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 - 3 years)
Size in cm: 56 – 62/68 – 74/80 (86/92 – 98/104)

Materials: DROPS Baby Merino, from Garnstudio
The whole set:
100-150-150 (150-150) g colour no 30, blue
250-300-300 (300-350) g colour no 02, off-white
Jacket only:
100-100-100 (150-150) g colour no 30, blue
100-100-100 (150-150) g colour no 02, off-white

DROPS circular needle, pointed needles and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and 3 mm.
DROPS button, 5-5-5 (6-6) pcs

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET:
Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm in pattern and stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Edge: 2.5 cm stocking st with blue, change to off-white, 2 rows stocking st, next row as follows: *K2 tog, 1 yo*, repeat from *-* (= folding edge, measure piece from here), 2 rows stocking st, change to blue and knit 2.5 cm stocking st.

Pattern: See diagram. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS and is knitted in stocking st.

Front and back piece:
Knitted in the round on circular needles after the Rib and cut for armholes and mid front afterwards. Cast on 120-134-148 (154-160) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with blue and knit Edge.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm and continue in the round in stocking st, at the same time inc 5-6-5 (14-21) sts evenly on round + 5 sts mid front (to be cut afterwards and not included in pattern, but knitted in blue) = 125-140-153 (168-181) sts (+ 5 sts). Continue in M.1. Remember the knitting tension!
When piece measures 18-19-22 (23-26) cm inc 5 sts each side for armhole (to be cut for armholes afterwards and not included in pattern, but knitted in blue) = 31-35-38 (42-45) sts on each front piece, 63-70-77 (84-91) sts on back piece.
At the same time swap the pattern colours - blue = off-white, off-white = blue, adjust to a whole or half star.
When piece measures 26-28-32 (34-38) cm cast off 16-18-20 (24-26) sts mid front + the 5 sts to be cut, for neck and complete piece back and forth on needle. Dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 1 time.
At the same time, when piece measures 28-30-34 (36-40) cm cast off the middle 23-24-27 (30-33) sts mid back for neck and dec 2 sts on neckline on next row.
Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 30-32-36 (38-42) cm.

Sleeve:
Knitted in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 38-40-40 (42-42) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with blue and knit Edge.
Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in stocking st, at the same time inc 2-4-8 (10-16) sts evenly on first round = 40-44-48 (52-58) sts. Now continue in M.1 – make sure to place a pattern repeat mid upper sleeve - at the same time, inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 9-9-10 (10-9) times as follows:
Size 3 months: on every 3rd round
Size 6/9 + 12/18 months: on every 4th and 5th * round alternately
Size 2 years: on every 6th and 7th round alternately
Size 3 years: on every 6th round
= 58-62-68 (72-76) sts – incorporate the new sts in pattern as you go along.
When piece measures 19-23-25 (27-29) cm knit 1.5 cm in reverse stocking st in blue = edge for sewing on sleeve to body piece.
Cast off and knit the other sleeve.

Assembly:
Insert a marking thread in the middle of the inc sts for armhole each side and mid front. Make 2 seams each side on your sewing machine, the first seam ½ st from the MT and the other one ½ st from the first one. Cut the piece between these for armholes and mid front.
Sew shoulder seams.
Pick up approx 70-90 sts on needle size 2.5 mm with blue along left front piece and knit edge back and forth on needle. Repeat along right front piece, but after 1 cm make 5-5-5 (6-6) buttonholes evenly distributed. 1 buttonhole = cast off 3 sts and cast on 3 new sts on return row. – remember buttonholes on both sides of folding edge. Pick up approx 74-86 sts round the neck on needle size 2.5 mm with blue and knit Edge, but 1.5 cm blue instead of 2.5 cm.
Set in sleeves from the RS as follows: sew in the last row before the edge in reverse stocking sts on sleeves to the first row after the seam in the sts for cutting on body piece. Turn the jumper inside out and sew the piece in stocking sts over the cutting edge on body piece. Fold all edges double towards WS and fasten.
Sew on buttons.

TROUSERS:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 – 3) years
Length: lest foot 38-42-47 (52-55) cm. Leg length: lest foot 18-20-23 (27-29) cm.
DROPS circular needle and double pointed needle size 2.5 mm and 3 mm

Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Knitted from waist down. Cast on 120-120-132 (132-144) sts on double pointed needle size 2.5 mm with off-white and knit 3 cm stocking st, P 1 round (= folding edge, measure piece from here), 3 cm stocking st. Change to needle size 3 mm and knit Rib, at the same time inc evenly to 128-128-136 (144-156) sts on round.
When piece measures 16-18-20 (21-22) cm inc mid back on both sides of the middle 2 sts on every 3rd round: 1 st 4 times, at the same time dec mid front on every 3rd round on both sides of the middle 2 sts: 1 st 4 times as follows: K2 tog into back of st, K 2 middle sts, K2 tog. When piece measures 20-22-24 (25-26) cm divide the piece in 2 and complete each leg separately.

Right leg:
= 64-64-68 (72-78) sts. Measure piece from here! When leg measures 2-4-2 (1-2) cm dec on the inside of leg on every 3-3-4 (5-5) cm: 2 sts 5 times = 54-54-58 (62-68) sts.
When leg measures 16-20-23 (27-29) cm dec evenly to 38-40-42 (42-44) sts and now complete the piece in stocking st. After 2 rounds knit 3 cm stocking st on 18 sts mid back (= heel) and now dec as follows:
Row 1: K10, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece
Row 2: slip 1 st as if to knit, P4, P2 tog, P1, turn the piece
Row 3: slip 1 st as if to knit, K5, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece
Row 4: slip 1 st as if to knit, P6, P2 tog, P1, turn the piece
Row 5: slip 1 st as if to knit, K7, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece
Row 6: slip 1 st as if to knit, P8, P2 tog, P1, turn the piece
Row 7: K2 tog, K8, K2 tog into back of st
= 10 sts on needle. Now pick up 7 sts on both sides of heel and put all sts on needles = 44-46-48 (48-50) sts. Now dec 1 st on every round on both sides of the upper 16-18-18 (20-22) sts a total of 6-6-7 (6-6) times = 32-34-34 (36-38) sts.
When foot measures 7-8-9 (11-12) cm knit 1 round stocking st, insert a MT each side and dec on both sides of MT (= 4 dec per round) on every round: 1 st 8-8-9 (9-9) times.
Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.

HAT:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 -3 years)
To fit head circumference: 35-41-46 (46-52) cm.
DROPS double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and 3 mm

Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter st back and forth on needle: Knit all rows.

Edge: knit 1 cm stocking st in blue, change to off-white, 2 rounds stocking st, next round as follows: *1 yo, K2 tog*, repeat from *-* ( = folding edge – measure piece from here), 2 rounds stocking st, change to blue, 1 cm stocking st.

Cast on 84-98-112 (112-126) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with blue and knit Edge. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in M.1, knit 1 vertical repeat and complete piece in blue. Remember the knitting tension.
When piece measures 14-16-18 (18-20) cm continue as follows: 1 round knitting tog st 2 by 2, 1 round in stocking st. Repeat this dec 4 times = 6-6-7 (7-8) sts. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.

Earflap: Cast on 9 sts on needle size 2.5 mm with off-white and knit 20 cm garter st (= tie string). Now inc 1 st each side on every and every other row alternately until there are 23-23-25 (27-27) sts on needle. Continue until earflap measures 8-8-9 (9-9) cm and cast off. Knit another one.
Fasten earflaps in the last row in garter st with 8-10 cm between them at the back.

MITTENS:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 -3 years)
Hand length: 9-10-11 (12-12) cm.
DROPS double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and 3 mm

Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Knitted in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 38-40-40 (42-44) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with blue and knit 6 cm Rib. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in stocking st, at the same time dec 4-2-2 (2-4) sts evenly on first round = 34-38-38 (40-40) sts. When piece measures 7-8-8.5 (9-9) cm put 5-5-6 (6-6) sts on thread for thumb. On next round cast on 5-5-6 (6-6) new sts over sts on thread and continue in stocking st.
When piece measures 12-12-13 (14-14) cm insert a MT each side and dec on both sides of MT on every and every other round alternately as follows: before MT, K2 tog, after MT, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso. Repeat this dec 7-8-8 (8-=8) times = 6-6-6 (8-8) sts. Cut thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.

Thumb: Pick up 5-5-6 (6-6) sts in the inc sts by thumb, put sts from thread on needle = 10-10-12 (12-12) sts. Knit approx 3-4 cm and now K tog all sts 2 by 2. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.

Diagram

symbols = off-white
symbols = blue
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Lucy Wright wrote:

Thank you for reply but I am still don’t quite follow. I understand you cast on 5 stitches, does that mean you have a hole there ? Normally when I cut armholes I don’t add stitches ! Many thanks - I love your patterns .

21.03.2024 - 08:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Wright, correct there will be a hole at the bottom of the new stitches but as these stitches will be cut afterwards this won't be visible, - see in this video how to work steek stitches and cut afterwards for the armholes. Happy knitting!

21.03.2024 - 09:02

country flag Lucy Wright wrote:

Can you explain how you increase 5 stitches for the armhole - does it mean you have a hole ?

20.03.2024 - 19:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Lucy, The best method is to cast on 5 stitches in each side, then work these stitches in stocking stitch onwards. As it mentions in the text, these stitches are used to when cutting an opening for the armholes later. Happy knitting!

21.03.2024 - 06:44

country flag Sarah wrote:

When I measure the piece (for example, to know when to increase for sleeves and switch colors on the chart) do I measure from the folded edge, or with the entire 6cm edge included in the length?

23.04.2022 - 23:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sarah, unless otherwise stated, you measure from the cast-on edge. In this pattern, you always measure from the cast-on edge. Happy knitting!

24.04.2022 - 22:53

country flag Gaby Barbacci wrote:

How can I make this pattern in size 4 yrs, this is one size larger than the 2/3 yrs in the instructions

22.02.2019 - 22:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Gaby, You can try increasing all the stitch numbers and rows to give the measurements you need, or you can search under Nordic patterns for children, where there are a number of similar patterns. Happy knitting!

23.02.2019 - 06:48

country flag Margareta Heed wrote:

Finns det här mönstret,eller snarlikt ,i damstorlek??Har stickat den åt barn,men tänkte den kanske finns även i vuxenstorlek,så man slipper sitta och räkna själv.

27.10.2018 - 12:43

country flag Birgitte Bjergø wrote:

Når der sættes masker af til tommelfinger skal der i følge opskriften slås en måske op, hvilket betyder at der skal være 33 masker til hånden - kan det være rigtigt?

07.10.2018 - 14:49

country flag Fran Ordway wrote:

I almost quit doing this sweater when I read that I have to cut the sweater to insert the sleeves. I would love an option to just insert the sleeves. Does this option exist.

09.08.2018 - 04:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ordway, the steek-stitches technique is often used to work in the round to the end - if you don't like to use this technique, you can simply work back and forth without casting on the new steek sts for front band and armholes - after armhole, continue each piece separately. Your DROPS store will be able to assist you if required. Happy knitting!

09.08.2018 - 08:53

country flag Janni Pyrmer wrote:

Hej Jeg kan ikke se diagrammet til denne opskrift ? Findes det stadig ? kan jeg evt. få det tilsendt ? pft /Janni

07.12.2016 - 13:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Janni. Ja, det er der stadig, men vi skal faa det tilföjet til den danske opskrift hurtigst muligt. Du kan se diagrammet i den norske opskrift.

07.12.2016 - 13:03

country flag Torild Lund wrote:

Holder på med øreklaffene men det står at jeg skal strikke 20 cm riller før jeg begynner å øke. da blir dem veldig lange. er det riktig?

08.11.2016 - 12:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Torild. Ja, du binder med de 20 cm, saa det er korrekt.

08.11.2016 - 15:10

country flag Gertrud wrote:

Jetzt habe ich noch eine Frage, ich verstehe in der Anleitung nicht, wie der Ärmel eingenäht wird. Gibt es dazu ein video?

22.04.2016 - 22:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Getrud, die etwas komplizierte Anleitung für das Einsetzen der Ärmel müssen Sie nur befolgen, wenn Sie die Jacke in der Steek-Technik Aufschneide-Technik) gestrickt haben. Ich werde Ihren Video-Wunsch weitergeben.

26.04.2016 - 09:27