DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.10 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.40€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 2-18
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 – 24 months

Materials: DROPS Safran, from Garnstudio
100-150-150-200 g colour no 9, navy blue
50-50-50-50 g colour no 17, white
50-50-50-50 g colour no 19, red

DROPS circular needle, pointed and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and 3 mm
DROPS button, 2 red and 6 navy blue

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.10 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.40€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JUMPSUIT:
Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needle size 3 mm in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm
Moss st: first row: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*. Second row: P over K and K over P. Repeat second row.

Left leg: Cast on 60-64-70-76 sts on pointed needles size 2.5 mm with white and work moss st back and forth on needle. When piece measures 2.5 cm change to red, work 1 row stocking st, 2 rows moss st. Change to needle size 3 mm and navy blue and continue in stocking st, at the same time inc 12-14-14-18 sts evenly on row = 72-78-84-84 sts. Now inc each side inside 1 edge st: 1 st 3-3-6-6 times as follows: 3 months: on every 4h row, 6/9 months: on every 5th row, 12/18 + 24 months: on every 3rd row = 78-84-96-96 sts. Remember the knitting tension. When piece measures 7-8-9-10 cm put it aside and knit the other leg.

Body piece: Put left and right leg in on the same circular needle size 3 mm = 156-168-192-192 sts. When piece measures 29-33-36-39 cm divide piece in two and complete front and back pieces separately.

Front piece: = 78-84-96-96 sts. Inc 1 st each side for seam = 80-86-98-98 sts. When piece measures 31-35-38-41 cm cast off 4 sts each side for armhole = 72-78-90-90 sts. Put piece aside.

Back piece: = 78-84-96-96 sts. Like front piece.

Sleeve: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 40-42-42-44 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with white and work moss st. When piece measures 2.5 cm change to red, 1 round stocking st, 2 rounds moss st. Change to needle size 3 mm and navy blue and continue in stocking st, at the same time inc 8-8-8-8 sts evenly on round = 48-50-50-52 sts. Now inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 5-6-9-10 times as follows:
Size 3 months: on every and every other round alternately
Size 6/9 + 12/18 + 24 months: on every other and every 3rd round alternately
= 58-62-68-72 sts. When piece measures 7-10-12-14 cm cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve = 52-56-62-66 sts. Put piece aside when it measures 8-11-13-15 cm.

Yoke: Put sleeves and body piece in on the same circular needle size 3 mm = 248-268-304-312 sts. Continue in navy blue and stocking at. Now dec 1 st on both sides of the 2 sts in transitions between sleeves and body piece a total of 10-10-12-13 times as follows: size 3 months: on every other round, size 6/9 months: on every 3rd round, size 12/18 + 24 months: on every other and 3rd round alternately. At the same time and additionally after 2 cm dec 16-19-20-20 sts evenly across front piece, 16-19-20-20 sts across back piece and 10-12-15-14 sts on each sleeve (do not dec on sts in transitions) = 156-166-186-192 sts. Now change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and red. Work 1 round stocking st (remember dec in transitions), 2 rounds moss st, 1 round stocking st. Change to white and continue in moss st, at the same time divide piece mid front for split and continue back and forth on needle. Cast on 5 new sts at beg and end of row for front bands. When band measures 1.5 -1.5-2-2 cm and 4-5-6-7 cm make buttonholes in the centre. 1 buttonhole = cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on return row. After the last dec = 116-126-138-140 sts left on needle + 10 front band sts. Continue with 2 sts in each transitions in stocking st until moss st section measures 4.5-5.5-6.5-7.5 cm. Now change to red, work 1 round stocking st, at the same time dec 42-46-54-52 sts evenly on round = 84-90-94-98 sts. Work 2 rows moss st, cast off loosely.

Assembly: Sew under arm seams. Pick up approx 50 sts on needle size 2.5 mm with navy blue along leg’s back piece, work 5 rows moss st, cast off. Repeat along leg’s front piece, but after 0.5 cm make 6 buttonholes evenly distributed. 1 buttonhole: cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on return row. Sew on buttons.

SOCKS:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 9/12 – 24 months
Foot length: 10-11-12-14 cm.
DROPS pointed needles size 2.5 mm and 3 mm

Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Cast on 34-36-36-38 sts on needle size 2.5 mm with red and knit 1.5 cm Rib. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in stocking st. When piece measures 7-8-8-9 cm knit heel as follows: 3 cm stocking st back and forth on needle on 18 sts mid back. Decreases for heel:
Row 1: K12, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece
Row 2: slip 1 st as if to P, P4, P2 tog, P1, turn the piece
Row 3: slip 1 st as if to K, K5, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece
Row 4: slip 1 st as if to P, P6, P2 tog, P1, turn the piece
Row 5: slip 1 st as if to K, K7, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece
Row 6: slip 1 st as if to P, P8, P2 tog, P1, turn the piece
Row 7: K2 tog, K8, K2 tog into back of st
= 10 sts on needle. Now pick up 7-7-8-8 sts on both sides of heel and put all sts on needles = 40-42-44-46 sts and continue in stocking st. Dec on both sides of the upper 16-18-18-20 sts on every round: 1 st 4-4-5-5 times = 32-34-34-36 sts. When foot measures 7-8-9-11 cm insert a Marking Thread (MT) each side and dec on both sides of MT (= 4 dec per round) on every round: 1 st 4-4-5-5 times, then on every other round: 1 st twice. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Maïmouna wrote:

Hallo liebes drops Team, ich habe eine Frage zu der Aufnahme für die Beine: muß auf jeder Seite des Beins eine Masche aufgenommen werden, oder müssen auf einer einzigen Seite zwei machen aufgenommen werden? Vielen Dank im Voraus! Ich liebe Eure Designs!

04.03.2021 - 19:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Maïmouna, es wird 1 Masche beidseitig zugenommen (= 2 M bei jeder Zunahmenreihe). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.03.2021 - 07:27

country flag Fabienne Pereira wrote:

Je suis a l empiecement ,aprés les diminutions de 138 mailles +10, vous dites continuer avec 2 mailles à chaque transition...dois je diminuer tous les rangs ? si s'est le cas a la fin je n obtiendrais pas 94 mailles, comme vous l indiquez....attends votre reponse pour continuer mon ouvrage...bien cordialement

31.01.2019 - 08:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Pereira, quand il reste 148 m (138 + 10 m de bordure devant), vous continuez sans diminuer jusqu'à ce que le point de riz mesure 6,5 cm puis vous continuez en rouge en diminuant 54 m, il reste 148-54= 94 m. Bon tricot!

31.01.2019 - 09:08

country flag Maria wrote:

Vielen Dank für die Lösung meiner Probleme. Die Neuformulierung hat sich gelohnt, das Endprodukt ist sehr hübsch geworden.

01.05.2015 - 21:05

country flag Maria wrote:

Ausserdem: wie komme ich bei der Passe von 156 mit einem Mal auf 116 maschen, kurz vor der Fertigstellung?

30.04.2015 - 09:15

DROPS Design answered:

Sie arbeiten die Raglanabnahmen weiter, dadurch ergibt sich die geringe Maschenzahl. Das müsste nun auch aus der Neuformulierung erkennbar sein, wie ich hoffe. Weiterhin gutes Gelingen!

30.04.2015 - 23:56

country flag Maria wrote:

Nein, doch nicht. Jetzt brauche ich noch einmal Hilfe: was ist der Übergang zur Passe?

30.04.2015 - 09:11

country flag Maria wrote:

Nein, doch nicht. Jetzt brauche ich noch einmal Hilfe: was ist der Übergang zur Passe?

30.04.2015 - 02:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Maria, die Anleitung ist schon sehr betagt und wurde nun noch einmal überarbeitet, insbesondere der Teil zur Passe ist nun etwas anders formuliert und wird dadurch hoffentlich deutlicher. Lesen Sie die Anleitung zur Passe einfach noch einmal, wenn dann noch Fragen offen sind, fragen Sie gerne wieder. :-)

30.04.2015 - 23:54

country flag Maria wrote:

Prompte Antwort, Dankeschön! Nun kann das Werk vollendet werden :-))

27.04.2015 - 10:38

country flag Maria wrote:

Ich bin dabei, dieses Modell nachzustricken, habe aber ein Problem: Nähe ich die inneren Hosenbeine einfach zusammen oder stricke ich eine Knopflochblende für die bei" Matrial" angegebenen anderen 6 Knöpfe?

26.04.2015 - 17:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Maria, bei der Übersetzung ist leider das Ende verloren gegangen, welches die Knopflöcher an den Beinen erklärt, es wird in Kürze ergänzt - Sie müssen ganz am Ende noch Blenden an die Innenseiten der Beine von Vorder- und Rückenteil stricken und bei der Vorderseite Knopflöcher einarbeiten. Wenn Sie dann noch Fragen haben, fragen Sie einfach wieder. :-)

26.04.2015 - 20:26

country flag Elisabeth Widenqvist wrote:

Det finns ett fel i mönstret på ärmen. Det står att man ska öka 1m x 9 (strl 1år). Men när man har gjort färdigt 9 st ökningar så fattas det 9 maskor.Det ska väl vara 2 m x 9 en på varje sida mitten under ärmen.

12.03.2013 - 17:33

country flag Søs wrote:

Denne model er der også kun et diagram til. Er det muligt at få opskriften, så jeg kan strikke den ? Håber meget på hjælp.

10.11.2008 - 00:21