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DROPS Baby 2-8
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 - 3 years)
Size in cm: 56 – 62/68 – 74/80 (86/92 – 98/104)

Materials: DROPS Camelia, from Garnstudio
Camelia has been discontinued, but all yarn from Yarn Group A will work for this pattern; DROPS Baby Merino, DROPS Alpaca, DROPS Safran and more.

The whole set:
200-200-250 (250-300) g colour no 25, blue
50-50-100 (100-100) g colour no 7, white
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 26, navy blue
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 21, red

Jumper only:
100-150-150 (200-250) g colour no 25, blue
50-50-100 (100-100) g colour no 7, white
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 26, navy blue
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 21, red

DROPS circular needle and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and 3 mm.

DROPS buttons, 3 pcs

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JUMPER:
Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.
Pattern: See diagram. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS side.

Front and back piece: Cast on 120-132-144 (156-160) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with blue and work 3-3-3 (4-4) cm Rib in the round. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in M.1 and stocking st, at the same time inc 0-0-0 (0-20) sts evenly on first round = 120-132-144(156-180) sts.
After M.1 complete piece in M.2. Remember knitting tension.
When piece measures 14-15-17 (19-18) cm cast off 4-6-6 (6-6) sts each side for armhole and complete front and back pieces separately.
Place a pattern repeat mid front.

Front piece: = 56-60-66 (72-84) sts.
Dec to shape the armhole each side on every other row: 1 st twice = 52-56-62 (68-80) sts. When piece measures 22-24-27 (30-33) cm cast off the middle 10-12-16 (18-20) sts for neck. Right shoulder: dec on every other row to shape the neckline: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 3 times. Cast off remaining sts on shoulder when piece measures 26-28-31 (34-37) cm. Left shoulder: dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1 time. When piece measures 25-27-30 (33-36) cm change to needle size 2.5 mm and work 2 cm Rib, but after 2 rows make 2 buttonholes evenly distributed. 1 buttonhole = cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on return row. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 27-29-32 (35-38) cm.

Back piece: = 56-60-66 (72-84) sts. Dec for armhole as described for front piece = 52-56-62 (68-80) sts. When piece measures 25-27-30 (33-36) cm cast off the middle 22-24-28 (30-32) sts for neck. Right shoulder: dec 2 sts on neckline on next row and cast off remaining sts when piece measures 26-28-31 (34-37) cm. Left shoulder: when piece measures 25-27-30 (33-36) cm change to needle size 2.5 mm and knit 2 cm Rib. Cast of remaining sts when piece measures 27-29-32 (35-38) cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 38-40-40 (42-42) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with blue and work 3-3-3 (3-4) cm Rib. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in M.3 and stocking st – make sure to place a pattern repeat mid upper sleeve – at the same time inc 2-4-8 (10-16) sts evenly on round = 40-44-48 (52-58) sts. After M.3 continue in blue. At the same time after the Rib inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 9-9-10 (10-16) times as follows:
Size 3 months: on every 3rd and 4th round alternately
Size 6/9 months + 12/18 months: on every 5th round
Size 2 years: on every 6th round
Size 3/4 years: on every 3rd and 4th round alternately
= 58-62-68 (72-90) sts. When piece measures 15-18-20 (22-24) cm continue in M.4 and then complete piece in blue. When piece measures 16-20-22 (23-26) cm cast off 6 sts mid under arm and complete sleeve back and forth on needle. Dec to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 5 sts 2-2-2 (3-3) times. Cast off when piece measures 18-22-24 (26-29) cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx 80-90 sts on needle size 2.5 mm with blue and work 2 cm Rib, at the same time make a buttonhole after 2 rounds in line with the others on body piece, change to white, K 1 round, cast off. Set in sleeves and sew on buttons.

SOCKS:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 -3 years)
Foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15) cm
DROPS double pointed needles size 3 mm

Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Cast on 38-40-42 (42-44) sts on double pointed needle size 3 mm with red and work 6-7-7 (8-8) cm Rib. Now knit heel as follows: 3 cm stocking st back and forth on needle on 18 sts mid back. Decreases for heel:
Row 1: K10, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece
Row 2: slip 1 st as if to P, P4, P2 tog, P1, turn the piece
Row 3: slip 1 st as if to K, K5, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece
Row 4: slip 1 st as if to P, P6, P2 tog, P1, turn the piece
Row 5: slip 1 st as if to K, K7, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece
Row 6: slip 1 st as if to P, P8, P2 tog, P1, turn the piece
Row 7: K2 tog, K8, K2 tog into back of st
= 10 sts on needle. Now pick up 7 sts on both sides of heel and put all sts on needles = 44-46-48 (48-50) sts. Continue in Rib on the middle 20-22-24 (24-26) sts and knit remaining sts in stocking st. At the same time, dec 1 st 3 times on both sides of the Rib section = 38-40-42 (42-44) sts. Continue until foot measures 8-8.5-9.5 (11.5-12.5) cm, and insert a Marking Thread (MT) either side of the Rib. Dec on both sides of MT (= 4 dec per round) on every round: 1 st 7-8-8 (8-9) times = 10-8-10 (10-8) sts. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.

HAT: See Babydrops 2, pattern no 11. Hat is knitted in blue. Make 2 tassels and fasten on top of hat.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 11.05.2018
Updated diagram and sketch

Diagram

symbols = navy blue
symbols = red
symbols = white
symbols = blue
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Marita Svane wrote:

Efter opdateringen kan jeg ikke finde diagrammet. Kun målskitsen. Er det fordi jeg er på mobilen eller er det væk?

11.09.2022 - 19:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marita, jo diagrammet ligger nederst i opskriften lige ovenfor måleskitsen :)

12.09.2022 - 12:05

country flag Joelle wrote:

Bonjour , je pense a une erreur après les côtes c'est M3 pas M1 , très joli pull

31.08.2019 - 15:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Joelle, après les côtes, on tricote le diagramme M.1 - l'encadré commence en bas du diagramme (= M.3) + le bonhomme de neige. Bon tricot!

02.09.2019 - 10:01

IVV wrote:

Sleeves are way to BIG for 6/9 months! What a waste of time.....

27.12.2018 - 17:42

country flag Irene Sørensen wrote:

Jeg er igang med med Drops baby 2-8 str (6-9). Opskriften siger start med M1, men billedet viser M3 nederst på blusen. Hvad er rigtigt? Vh Irene

29.10.2018 - 19:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Irene. Det er M.1 som strikkes nederst på blusen: som du kan se går M.1 fra nederst på diagrammet og opp til toppen av snømannen. M.3 utgjør den nederste delen av M.1, og dette diagrammet strikkes på ermene - der du kan se den samme mønsterborden, men uten snømannen. God fornøyelse.

30.10.2018 - 09:07

country flag Murielle Pham wrote:

Le nombre de maille des manches (6/9 mois) n\\\\\\\'est pas bon pour faire le motif. Du coup, on enlève 2mailles ou en rajoute 4 ?

02.10.2018 - 21:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Pham, le nombre de mailles est correct ainsi, vous devez centrer un motif au milieu sur la manche - vous trouverez ici comment faire. Bon tricot!

03.10.2018 - 08:14

country flag Lelletta wrote:

Si, lo so, come ripeto sono una Vostra cliente già da tempo, ma credevo che il tutto facesse capo a Voi.Mi scuso e Vi saluto cordialmente.

18.10.2016 - 18:40

country flag Lelletta wrote:

Buonasera! Riferisco a voi un problema, anche se questo forse non è il posto giusto, ma volevo comunicarVi che nonostante la mia postepay scada il 31/10/2016 non viene accettata in quanto tale data non viene ritenuta valida! Perché??? Sono una Vostra affezionata cliente e ci sono rimasta malissimo!! Pazienza, comprerò altrove! Buon lavoro!

18.10.2016 - 00:01

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Lelletta. Dal sito DROPS non è possibile ordinare direttamente,  ma si  viene reindirizzati ai nostri distributori autorizzati. Per problemi con il pagamento può mettersi in contatto direttamente con il rivenditore per trovare la soluzione migliore. Buon lavoro!

18.10.2016 - 00:17

country flag Susanne Hansen wrote:

Kan desværre ikke se hvordan sokkerne ser ud. Findes der et billede el. lign.

01.12.2014 - 21:46

Jeanne D Arc Acaire wrote:

Dans ce modele il n y a pas d explication pour le dos du chandail spécialement pour l encolure qui ne doit pas etre la meme que le devant Merci de me répondre et de m envoyer les explications

26.11.2013 - 19:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme D'Arc Acaire, le paragraphe manquant pour le dos a été rajouté - merci. Bon tricot!

27.11.2013 - 09:33

country flag Anastasia wrote:

The number of cast on stitches for the 9-12 months and 3 years sizes are wrong. They need to be a multiple of 12 for the pattern chart to work.

26.09.2013 - 00:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anastasia, number of sts have been edited for 2nd and 3rd size. Thank you. Happy knitting!

26.09.2013 - 20:47