DROPS / 52 / 27

Endless Winter by DROPS Design

DROPS Sweater for men in Karisma Superwash

Sizes:
Women’s Small - Medium - Large
Finished measurements: 112 - 120 - 128 cm
[44" - 47.25" - 50-3/8"]
Men’s Small/Medium - Medium/Large
Finished measurements: 120 -128 cm [47-.25" - 50-3/8"]
Numbers in ( ) are men’s sizes.

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
Alternative 1:
250-250-300 (300-350) g col. 48, wine red
500-550-600 (650-700) g col. 01, natural white
Alternative 2:
250-250-300 (300-350) g col. 01, natural white
500-550-600 (650-700) g col. 56, brown


For sweater with neck split: 3 pairs DROPS clasps

DROPS 2.5 mm [US 1] and 3.5 mm [US 4] circular needles and double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 22 sts and 30 rows on larger needle in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"]

Pattern: See chart (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is shown from the right side and is knit entirely in stockinette stitch. Charts have arrows indicating the starting points for different sizes («dame» = women’s; «herre» = men’s). .

Rib: * knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from * - *.

Body: Numbers in () = men's sizes. Color alternative 2 is in [ ] and italics. Knit the sweater in the round and cut steeks for armholes and neck split.
Cast on 188-200-212 (204-216) sts with natural white [brown] on smaller needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib until work measures 6 cm [2-3/8"] as follows: 1 row with natural white [brown], then change to wine red [natural white]. Change to larger circular needles and knit Pattern 1, increasing 60-64-68 (60-64) sts evenly distributed on the first row = 248-264-280 (264-280) sts. Attach a marker at the other side; front and back = 124-132-140 (132-140) sts. Start at the appropriate arrow on the chart and knit Pattern across the front, start at the arrow again and knit Pattern across the back. After Pattern 1 repeat Pattern 2. When the work measures 33-35-36 (39-41) cm [13" - 13.75" - 14-1/8" (15.25 - 16-1/8")], inc 5 sts at each side (these sts are for the steeks and are not knitted into the pattern). At the same time, when the work measures 33-35-37 (40-43) cm [13" - 13.75" - 14.5" (15.75" - 16-7/8")] - adjust for complete pattern 2 - repeat Pattern 3 to finished dimensions.

Sweater with round neck: When approximately 18 rows of Pattern 3 remain - the work measures approximately 54-56-58 (61-64) cm [21.25" -22" - 22-7/8" (24" -25.25")] - bind off the center front 30-32-32 (32-34) sts for the neck and knit the rest back and forth on needles. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time. At the same time, when the work measures 58-60-62 (65-68) cm [22-7/8" - 23-5/8" - 24-3/8" (25-5/8" - 26.75")], bind off the center back 38-40-40 (40-42) sts for the neck. Then bind off 2 sts at each back neck edge on the next row. Bind off after Pattern 3 - the work measures approximately 60-62-64 (67-70) cm [23-5/8" - 24-3/8" -25.25" (26-3/8" - 27-5/8")].

Sweater with split: When the work measures 40-42-44 (47-50) cm [15.75" - 16.5" - 17.25" (18.5" - 19.75")], bind off the center front 12 sts for a split. On the next row cast on 5 sts over the bound-off sts - these sts are for the steek and are not knitted into the pattern. When the work measures 54-56-58 (61-64) cm [21.25" - 22" - 22-7/8" (24" - 25.25")], bind off the center front 18-20-20 (20-22) sts + 5 steek sts for the neck. Now knit the rest back and forth on needles. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time. At the same time, when the work measures 58-60-62 (65-68) cm [22-7/8" - 23-5/8" - 24-3/8" (25-5/8" - 26.75")], bind off the center back 38-40-40 (40-42) sts for the neck. Then bind off 2 sts at each back neck edge on the next row. Bind off after Pattern 3 - the work measures approximately 60-62-64 (67-70) cm [23-5/8" - 24-3/8" - 25.25" (26-3/8" - 27-5/8")].

Sleeves: Cast on 50-50-54 (54-58) sts on smaller double pointed needles with natural white [brown]; join and knit rib for 5 cm as follows: 1 row natural white [brown] and then wine red [natural white]. Change to larger double pointed needles and Pattern 1, increasing 6-8-4 (4-2) sts evenly distributed on the first row = 56-58-58 (58-60) sts. After the rib, inc 1 st each side of marker 31-30-33 (33-34) times:
Women's S + M and Men's S/M + M/L: every 4th row
Women's L: alternately every 3rd and 4th row
= 118-118-124 (124-128) sts. After Pattern 1 repeat Pattern 2 until the work measures approximately 35-34-33 (39-39) cm [13.75" - 13-3/8" - 13" (15.25" - 15.25")] - adjust for complete pattern. Knit Pattern 4 once, and then Pattern 5 once. The work measures approximately 50-49-48 (54-54) cm [19.75" - 19.25" - 18-7/8" (21.25" - 21.25")]. Then knit 2 cm [0.75"] reverse stockinette stitch for a seam allowance over the cut edge on the body. Bind off.

Assembly:
Sweater with round neck: Sew a marker thread in the center of the steek sts on either side. Sew two machine seams around the marker thread, 1st seam = 1/2 stitch from the marker thread, 2nd seam = 1/2 stitch from first seam. Cut steeks for armholes. Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approximately 104-110 sts around the neck on smaller double pointed needles with wine red [brown] and knit 1 row stockinette stitch, then rib for 6 cm [2-3/8"], bind off. Fold the rib over against the wrong side and sew. Sew the sleeves to the body from the right side as follows: Sew alternately a stitch in the last row on the sleeve before the seam allowance and a stitch on the body after the machine seam. Turn the sweater inside out and sew the seam allowance from the sleeve over the cut edge on the body by hand.

Sweater with neck split: Sew a marker thread in the center of the steek sts on either side and at the center front. Sew two machine seams around the marker thread, 1st seam = 1/2 stitch from the marker thread, 2nd seam = 1/2 stitch from first seam. Cut steeks for armholes and split. Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approximately 24-34 sts along the left side of the split on smaller needles with wine red [brown] and knit border. Repeat along the right side of the split. Fold the edges over against the wrong side and sew. Sew the split together at the bottom from the right side. Pick up approximately 106-116 sts around the neck on smaller needles with wine red [brown] and knit border back and forth on the needles. Fold the edge over against the wrong side and sew. Sew the sleeves to the body from the right side as follows: Sew alternately a stitch in the last row on the sleeve before the seam allowance and a stitch on the body after the machine seam. Turn the sweater inside out and sew the seam allowance from the sleeve over the cut edge on the body by hand. Sew on the hooks.





HAT:

Size: Women's (Men's)
Circumference of the hat: 52 (55) cm [20.5" (21-5/8")]

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
100 (100) g col. 01, natural white [or col. 56, brown]

DROPS 2.5 mm [US 1] and 3.5 mm [US 4] double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 22 sts and 30 rows on larger needle in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"]

Rib: *knit 2, purl 2 *. Repeat from * - *.

Hat: Cast on 156 (160) sts on smaller double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 8 cm [3-1/8"] rib, change to larger double pointed needles and stockinette stitch, decreasing 42 (40) sts evenly distributed on the first row = 114 (120) sts. Knit 10 (12) cm [4" (4.75")] stockinette stitch. On the next row, attach a marker after every 6th stitch. On the next row, K 2 tog after each marker. Repeat this decrease every 6th row until 19 (20) sts remain. On the next row, * K 2 tog * across row. Then pull a doubled strand of yarn through remaining sts and sew it in. Make a small pompon and sew it onto the top.

Socks: See pattern under Model No. 52-23.

Scarf: See pattern under Model No. 52-23.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= off white (brown)
= wine red (off white)


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 52-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

Åsa Tilly 22.04.2016 - 12:39:

Vad olika det är för olika personer. Jag har inte hittat något fel i mönstret men i antalet nystan. Jag beställde 250 gr vinrött och 550 gr naturvitt men när jag har lite kvar på ena axeln fram och hela bakstycket från ärmhålen så fattas det ett nystan vinrött och jag har ett nystan naturvitt för mycket.

Tissa Van De Wege 12.11.2015 - 10:59:

Hoe kom ik bij de teltekening van dit patroon? Zowel via mijn laptop als via de iPhone en iPad zie ik geen teltekening.

DROPS Design 12.11.2015 kl. 15:58:

Hoi Tissa. Het is toegevoegd.

Frida 16.02.2014 - 16:27:

Mönstret är ju inte helt symmetriskt utan olika över och under den stora rutan!

Ilse Irene Grønbæk 16.02.2014 - 11:46:

Jeg er ved at strikke denne trøje og har opdaget en fejl i mønsteret. M3 p37 burde være lig p21 men det er den ikke. Jeg har selv korrigeret på min trøje, men jeg håber da i rette fejlen til fremtidige strikkere. Med venlig hilsen Ilse Grønbæk

Raydene 28.12.2013 - 21:17:

After binding off the neck and finishing the row to the beginning of the round I am confused. 1. Do I cut the yarn and start again at the beginning of the bound off stitches and continue the pattern knitting back and forth and making that the new starting point? 2. Or can I hold the stitches to be bound off as live stitches and do a steek and knit in the round making a steek at the back of the neck as well

DROPS Design 30.12.2013 kl. 15:29:

Dear Mrs Raydene, after binding off sts for neckline on front piece, continue back and forth on all sts, then cast off sts for neckline back piece and cast off remaining sts after Pattern 3. You may slip sts for neckline on a st holder if you rather work that way. You will then pick up sts around neckline for collar. Happy knitting!

Annelie Zingmark 29.07.2011 - 17:05:

Hej! När man kommer till första märktråden ska man fortsätta sticka mönstret enligt diagrammet och inte börja om från pilen, som det står i beskrivningen.Jag gör en medium/large till min man och gjorde som det står men då blir det alltså fel i båda sidorna. Mvh Annelie

DROPS Design NL 24.01.2011 - 10:05:

Vergelijk ik de trui op de foto met de teltekeningen, dan is het volgens mij correct. De hoekvorm boven de bloem is anders dan onder. Gr. Tine

Jolanda 21.01.2011 - 14:39:

Helaas zit er een foutje in het patroon (althans, zo lijkt me wel) Ik heb het over de 4 driehoekjes. Bovenin zitten ze tegen de bloem aan en onderin 1 regel lager (ik kan eventueel via mail het aangeven op een foto)Op de voorbeelden zit het dan ook blijkbaar "fout" Met vriendelijke groet, Jolanda

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