DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.90 € /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 87-18
DROPS design: Model no W-315
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Measurements might seem a bit small, but garment is quite elastic so work the size you usually use.
Materials: DROPS Paris from Garnstudio
400-400-450-500-550 g colour no 26, dark beige
and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350 g colour no 21, light purple
+ a left over colour no 17, light beige for crochet flowers

DROPS Circular needle and double pointed needles size 8 mm.
DROPS Crochet hook size 3 mm.

Knitting tension: Remember needle size is only a guide 12 sts x 15 rows with needle size 8 mm and 1 strand of each quality and stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.90 € /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

Rib: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*.

Decrease tip (for raglan and side dec): After marker thread: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, lift slip st over. Before marker thread: K 2 tog.

Knitting tip: If the knitting tension is not right in height and the work is too tight, the raglan decreases will be too short and armhole too small. This can be adjusted by working an extra round without dec with even spaces between decreases.

Body: Cast on 88-96-104-120-136 sts with circular needle size 8 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Work 1 round K and then 3 rounds rib. Continue with stocking st while at same time no. of sts adjusted to 92-100-108-124-136 sts on 1st round after rib. Insert a marker thread in each side. Remember knitting tension! When piece measures 8 cm dec 2 sts in each side (i.e. 1 st in each side of both marker threads) every 2-2-2-1.5-1.5 cm – see Decrease tip: in total 4-4-4-5-5 times = 76-84-92-104-116 sts. When piece measures 17 cm inc 2 sts in each side (i.e. 1 st in each side of marker threads) every 3 cm in total 5-5-6-6-6 times = 96-104-116-128-140 sts. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37 cm cast off 6 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. 3sts on each side of marker threads) = 42-46-52-58-64 sts remain on front and back pieces. Lay piece to one side and work sleeves.

Sleeves: Cast on 32-32-36-36-36 sts with double pointed needles size 8 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands) and work 1 row K. Then work 3 rounds rib. Continue with stocking st while at same time no. of sts adjusted to 32-34-34-36-36 sts on 1st row after rib. When piece measures 8 cm dec 3 sts evenly on round. Repeat dec when piece measures 10 cm. When piece measures 12 cm dec 2 sts evenly on round = 24-26-26-28-28 sts. When piece measures 15 cm inc 2 sts mid under arm every 4-4-3-2.5-2.5 cm in total 7-7-9-9-10 times = 38-40-44-46-48 sts. When sleeve measures 42-41-41-40-40 cm cast off 6 sts mid under arm = 32-34-38-40-42 sts. Lay piece to one side and work 1 more sleeve.

Carrying piece: Place sleeves on same circular needle as body where sts are cast off for armholes = 148-160-180-196-212 sts. Insert 1 marker thread in all transitions between body and sleeves (= 4 marker threads).

Raglan decrease: Read knitting tip and Decrease tip! Dec in each side of front and back pieces: Every 2nd round: 6-6-5-5-4 times and then every round: 3-4-8-9-13 times. Dec in each side of sleeves: Sizes S - XL - XXL work 1 round before starting dec on sleeves. Dec every 4th round: 4-4-3-2-2 times and every 2nd round: 0-1-4-6-7 times. After decreases to raglan there are 96-100-100-108-108 sts remaining on needle. Cast off when piece measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60 cm up to shoulder.

Assembly: Sew opening under sleeves. Neck: Knit up 96-100-100-108-108 sts around neck with circular needle size 8 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands) – Knit up 1 st in each dec st. Work stocking st. When neck measures 5 cm inc 16-16-20-20-24 sts evenly on round = 112-116-120-128-132 sts. When neck measures 10 cm inc 16-18-22-22-26 sts evenly on round = 128-134-142-150-158 sts. When neck measures 15 cm inc 16-18-22-22-26 sts evenly on round = 144-152-164-172-184 sts. When neck measures 20 cm cast off – so that the cast-off edge is not tight, work 1 YO after every 5th st while casting off (YO cast off as st).

Twisted cord: Cut 1 strand Paris + 1 strand Cotton Viscose of 5 m. Twist strands tog until they resist and fold them double so that they twist again. Make a knot in each end, cord measures approx. 2 m. Tack cord into cast off edge between body and neck so that it can be used to regulate neck opening.
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Crochet flowers: Work 4 ch with hook size 3 mm and light beige Cotton Viscose and form them to a ring with 1 sl st.

1st round: 1 dc around ring, * 2 ch, 1 dc around ring *, repeat from *-* in total 6 times and finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in 1st dc from beg of round = 7 ch-spaces.

2nd round: 1 ch, continue working in each ch-space as follows: 1 dc, 3 tr and 1 dc, finish with 1 dc in 1st dc from beg of round. Turn piece – now finish working flower from back.

3rd round: 1 ch, * work 1 dc around dc from 1st round (i.e. work at back of petals around st from previous round, tighten strand), 4 ch *, repeat from *-* in total 7 times and finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc from beg of round.

4th round: 1 ch, continue working as follows in each ch-space: 1 dc, 1 ch, 5 tr, 1 ch and 1 dc, finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc from beg of round. Cut and fasten strand. Change to dark beige Paris.

5th round: * Work 1 dc around dc from 3rd round (i.e. work on back of 2 petals around st from previous round, tighten strand), 5 ch *, repeat from *-* in total 7 times and finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc from beg of round.

6th round: 1 ch, continue working as follows in each ch-space: 1 dc, 1 ch, 7 tr, 1 ch and 1 dc, finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc from beg of round. Cut and fasten strand.

Work 2 flowers and fasten them to neck.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (3)

country flag Nathalie Porcher wrote:

Bonjour meilleurs voeux voila j aimerais faire le pull de la photo ci dessus mais faut il obligatoirement le faire en 1 seul morceau ou peut on le faire avec deux aiguilles normal c 'est pour une commande en taille 2xxl merci beaucoup bonne journée nathalie

09.01.2020 - 11:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, vous trouverez ici quelques informations sur les tricots sur aiguilles circulaires. Bon tricot!

09.01.2020 - 14:03

country flag Esther wrote:

Bonjour, je souhaiterais réaliser ce modèle mais j'aurais voulu savoir s'il se travaille sur aiguilles circulaires en rond ou en aller-retour. En effet, je pensais que c'était en rond mais au niveau des manches raglan, lorsque je vais voir votre vidéo tuto, je vois que vous travaillez en aller-retour... je m'interroge donc...

03.05.2016 - 11:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Esther, ce pull se tricote en rond du bas jusqu'aux emmanchures, puis on tricote les manches en rond également, et on continue l'empiècement en rond également. Le col se fera ensuite également en rond, en relevant les mailles rabattues à la fin de l'empiècement. Le raglan de la vidéo est montré en allers et retours mais elle vous montre la technique, suivez bien les indications du modèle. Bon tricot!

03.05.2016 - 13:48

country flag Scherer wrote:

Hallo, leider komme ich mit den Maßangaben nicht ganz klar. Wird das Vorder und Rückenteil in einem gestrickt (gibt es nur auf einer Seite unterm Arm eine Naht)? Würde mich sehr über eine schnelle Antwort freuen. Viele Grüße Katja Scherer

01.02.2014 - 20:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Frau Scherer, bis zum Ärmel wird der Rumpfteil in einem Teil rund gestrickt, dann die Ärmel und dann die Passe über alle Teile.

03.02.2014 - 08:54