DROPS / 74 / 11

Ruffle Rose by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS top in "Cotton Viscose" with crochet flower on front.

DROPS design: Pattern no N-025
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL
Materials: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio 
Viscose sags, think about this when measuring the garment! Uneven stitches will generally even out after washing.
200-250-250-300 g colour no 03, old pink

DROPS Circular needle sizes 2.5 and 3 mm
DROPS Crochet hook size 3 mm
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 24 stitches x 32 rows = 10 x 10 cm with needle size 3 mm and stocking stitch. Remember needle size is only a guide!

Ridge/Garter stitch (back and forth on needle): 1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
Rib: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Body shaping: Decrease and increase to shape front and back pieces according to diagrams - M.1 and M.2. The pattern in the diagram is seen from the right side.

Decrease tip (for armholes and neck): All decreases are worked from the right side. Decrease on inside of: 
Armhole: 7 edge stitches which are worked as follows from the edge (seen from the right side): 1 stitch in garter stitch, then * K1, P1 * a total of 3 times.
Neck: 3 edge stitches which are worked as follows from the edge (seen from the right side): 1 stitch in garter stitch, K1, P1.
Decrease as follows after the edge stitches: Slip 1 as if to knit, K1, pass slipped stitch over. Decrease as follows before the edge stitches: K2 together.
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Body: Cast on 200-220-240-260 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Cotton Viscose, change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib for 2 cm. Change back to circular needle size 3 mm, insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round and work the next round as follows: 10 stitches rib (start with K1), 79-89-99-109 stitches stocking stitch, 21 stitches rib (start with P1), 79-89-99-109 stitches stocking stitch, 11 stitches rib (start with P1). Continue with stocking stitch upwards and rib in the sides. Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 6-7-8-9 cm insert marker threads for the shaping on front and back pieces as follows: 10 stitches rib, 17-21-25-29 stitches stocking stitch, insert 1 marker thread, 45-47-49-51 stitches stocking stitch, insert 1 marker thread, 17-21-25-29 stitches stocking stitch, 21 stitches rib, 17-21-25-29 stitches stocking stitch, insert 1 marker thread, 45-47-49-51 stitches stocking stitch, insert 1 marker thread, 17-21-25-29 stitches stocking stitch, 11 stitches rib. Then work M.1 over the marker threads in front and back (= shaping) - see arrow in diagram for marker thread. Repeat M.1 a total of 4 times = 168-188-208-228 stitches. After M.1 continue with stocking stitch and rib in the sides until piece measures 16-17-18-19 cm. Now work M.2 in the same way over the marker threads in front and back. Repeat M.2 a total of 4 times = 200-220-240-260 stitches.

Read the whole of the next section before continuing!
When piece measures 33-34-35-36 cm decrease to armholes and V-neck as follows: Cast off 3 stitches for armhole, 7 stitches rib, 36-41-46-51 stitches stocking stitch, P1, K1, 1 stitch garter stitch, slip next stitch, K1, pass slipped stitch over, K1, P1, 36-41-46-51 stitches stocking stitch, 7 stitches rib, cast off 7 stitches for armhole, 7 stitches rib, 79-89-99-109 stitches stocking stitch, 7 stitches rib, cast off 4 stitches for armhole. Each part is finished separately.

Front piece: Place stitches on left side (when garment is worn) on a thread.
Right side: = 46-51-56-61 stitches.
Read the whole of the next section before continuing! Continue to decrease for armholes and V-neck - see Decrease tip!
V-neck: 1 stitch every 2nd row a total of 25-26-28-29 times. 
Armhole: 1 stitch every 2nd row a total of 10-14-17-21 times = 11 stitches rib left for shoulder strap. Work until piece measures 54-56-58-60 cm, then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Left side: Place stitches on thread back on needle = 46-51-56-61 stitches and work as for right side - First row is worked from mid front, i.e. from the wrong side - start by picking up 1 stitch in the middle stitch that was cast off and work it together with the first stitch on the needle (this is done so that there will not be a “jump” in the transition at bottom of V-neck).

Back piece: = 93-103-113-123 stitches. Continue to decrease for armhole in the side as for front piece = 73-75-79-81 stitches. When piece measures 48-50-52-54 cm work rib over all stitches. When piece measures 50-52-54-56 cm cast off all stitches.

Assembly: Sew the straps on each side of the back piece so that the stitches match. 

Crochet edge in neck: Work on inside of the 1 edge stitch around the neck with hook size 3 mm and Cotton Viscose.
Row 1: 1 double crochet, * 5 chain stitches, skip 1 row/stitch (in the neck, skip 3 stitches), 1 double crochet in next row/stitch *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet.
Row 2: Work slip stitches to middle of first chain-space, * 5 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in next chain-space, 5 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in same chain-space *, repeat from *-*, finish with 5 chain stitches and 1 double crochet in first chain-space.

Crochet flower: Work 4 chain stitches and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch.
Round 1: 6 double crochets in ring, finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet.
Round 2: * 1 double crochet in double crochet, 3 chain stitches *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet.
Round 3: 1 chain stitch, then work as follows in chain-space: * 1 double crochet, 1 chain stitch, 3 treble crochets, 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet *, repeat from *-* in all spaces, finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet.
Round 4: Turn piece, * work 1 double crochet in double crochet from round 2 (work around stitch from previous round, tighten strand), 5 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times, finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet.
Round 5: 1 chain stitch, then work as follows in chain-space: * 1 double crochet, 1 chain stitch, 5 treble crochets, 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet *, repeat from *-* in all spaces. Finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet.
Round 6: Turn piece, * work 1 double crochet in double crochet from round 2 (work around the stitch from the previous round, tighten strand), 7 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times, finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet.
Round 7: 1 chain stitch, then work as follows in chain-space: * 1 double crochet, 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet, 5 double treble crochets, 1 treble crochet, 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet *, repeat from *-* in all spaces. Finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet. Cut strand and sew flower to mid front of top.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= 1 yarn over
= Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, K1, pass slipped stitch over.
= K2 together

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 74-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

Cluzeaud 13.02.2019 - 15:11:

Merci pour votre réponse, et j\' avais bien compris qu'il me fallait diviser le nombre de maille par 2, par contre, à quel moment je vais faire les diagrammes 1 et 2(pinces)

DROPS Design 14.02.2019 kl. 09:40:

Bonjour Mme Cluzeaud, nous ne sommes pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chaque modèle à chaque demande, il vous faudra alors lire les explications pour adapter à votre façon de faire. Dans ce cas, on commence par 10 m en côtes et on termine par 11 m de côtes, au milieu du rang, on a 21 m en côtes = côtés, le début du tour commence par un côté (10 m), on a 21 m en côtes de l'autre côté et on termine par 11 m (= soit 21 m en côtes de chaque côté). Ajustez ainsi en fonction de votre taille le nombre de mailles. Votre magasin pourra vous aider si besoin, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

Cluzeaud 13.02.2019 - 14:46:

Bonjour\r\nVos modèles sont jolis mais, je ne sais pas tricoter en rond, comment adapter le modèle avec des aiguilles normales.\r\nCordialement\r\nM. Cluzeaud

DROPS Design 13.02.2019 kl. 14:56:

Bonjour Mme Cluzeaud, vous trouverez ici, comment adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!

Blottiere Véronique 03.03.2018 - 10:25:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas les explications concernant les pinces. Les mailles en côtes sont elles situées aux côtés du top ? la jonction des mailles est elle le milieu du dos ? Merci pour votre réponse Cordialement VB

DROPS Design 05.03.2018 kl. 08:26:

Bonjour Mme Blottiere, les tours commencent sur le côté = on commence par 10 m en côtes et on termine par 11 m de côtes et au milieu du tour, on aura 21 m en côtes (= 2ème côté). Bon tricot!

Eleonore Peensgen 06.02.2015 - 18:08:

Hallo, ich verstehe das Muster nicht. Soll denn vier Mal je weils abgenommen werden (M.1) und danach später vier Mal (Muster2)durch Umschläge zugenommen werden???? Oder habe ich das falsch verstanden? Freundliche Grüße an alle Strickerinnen Nora

DROPS Design 08.02.2015 kl. 16:06:

Sie haben das richtig verstanden. Sie müssen ja die Formgebung wie in der Schnittzeichnung erreichen, das erfolgt bei diesem Modell durch M.1 und M.2. Durch die Abnahmen in M.1 ergibt sich die Taillierung, dann mit den Zunahmen in M.2 erreichen Sie die Brustweite.

DROPS Design NL 14.03.2010 - 19:49:

Hoi. Je moet 4 markeerringen plaatsen zoals beschreven. Brei M.1. Door de omslagen minder je 2 st per markeerdraad = 8 st per herhaling van M.1. Herhaal M.1 vier keer = 32 st minder. 260-32 st = 228 st. Ik hoop dat je nu verder kan. Succes ;o). Gr. Tine

Alice 06.03.2010 - 14:00:

Hallo, ik ben een leek in het breien en probeer patroon drops 74-11. Volgens de teltekening (denk ik) moet men boven elke merkdraad bij voor en achterpand 4 steken minderen, en dit 4 x herhalen, maar dan kom ik niet aan 228 steken of zie ik dit verkeerd. Of moet ik alleen minderen aan het voorpand?

DROPS Design NL 29.12.2009 - 21:33:

Hoi Mita. De Nederlandse verklaring voor de teltekening staat onderaan het patroon in dezelfde verticale volgorde als op de teltekening. Kijk onder "VERTALING SYMBOLEN". Wij hebben dit ook vermeld in het patroon zelf. Veel plezier verder. Gr. Tine

Mita 25.12.2009 - 17:27:

Ook hier ontbreken de verklaringssymbolen voor het = teken.Graag hulp. grts,Mita

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