DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.85 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.10CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 74-7
Sizes: S - M - L - XL
Finished measurements: 88-98-108-118 cm [34-5/8" - 38-5/8" - 42.5" - 43.25"]
On account of the rib pattern the pullover will initially be somewhat smaller than indicated on the diagram.

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN, from Garnstudio
300-350-400-400 gr nr 22, brown.

DROPS 3 mm [US 3] straight and double-pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.85 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.10CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows = 10 x 10 cm in stockinette st.

Pattern: See charts. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Rib-1: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from * - *.
Rib-2: * K 2, P 4 * , repeat from * - *.

Knitting tips for decreasing (for raglan shaping on Body): Dec 1 st for raglan shaping inside 5 sts knit as follows from edge: K 1 (edge st), P 1, K 2 and P 1.
On right side rows:
After 5 sts: P 2 tog.
Before 5 sts: Slip 2, return to left needle 1 by 1, twisting each st, P 2 tog.
On wrong side rows: After 5 sts: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso.
Before 5 sts: K 2 tog.

Tucked Ridges on sleeves:
Knit first row as follows (right side row): * K 1, yo *, repeat from * - *, finish with K 1. Knit 4 rows stockinette st, letting yo loops drop on 1st row (long sts).
Knit the next row (wrong side row) as follows: * pull up the top of sts from rows with long sts. Put loop on right needle, P 1, pull loop over purled st so that the loop binds the st off *, repeat from * - *.
____________________________________________________________________


Front: Cast on 108-120-132-144 sts. Establish pattern on the first row as follows:
Rib-1 over 24-30-36-42 sts:
Sizes S and L: start with P 2
Sizes M and XL: start with K 2
then (all sizes): Pattern 1 (30 sts), Pattern 2 (30 sts), and Rib-1 over 24-30-36-42 sts (starting with K 2). Continue in pattern as established until all the rows of Pattern 1 and Pattern 2 are complete – these sts are now in Rib-2. Continue until the piece measures 33-34-35-36 cm, then bind off 6 sts at each side for armhole = 96-108-120-132 sts.
Read the entire next section before knitting:
Raglan shaping: Dec for raglan inside 5 sts at each side - see knitting tips. Dec 1 st every other row 30-28-25-22 times and then 1 st every row until the neck shaping overlaps raglan shaping - NOTE: for size S the neck shaping will overlap the raglan while still decreasing every other row, so that you will not need to dec every row.

Neck shaping: When the piece measures 38-39-41-42 cm purl and bind off the 2 center sts for the neck. Put left side on a st holder.

Right side: Dec 1 st for the neck every other row until all sts are bound off - the neck shaping will overlap the raglan shaping. when all sts are bound off the piece measures approx. 51-53-55-57 cm.

Left side: Put sts on st holder back on needles and knit the same as the right side, reversing all shaping - knit the 1st row from center front on wrong side row - start by picking up 1 st in the first bound-off st and knit together with 1st st on needles.

Back: Cast on and knit the same as the front, but instead of yo in the pattern, inc by pulling up a st from the previous row (see «Pattern» symbol description). Shape raglan as on front as follows: dec 1 st every other row 30-28-25-22 times and then 1 st every row 0-8-17-26 times. Put the remaining 36 sts on a st holder, the piece measures approx. 51-53-55-57 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on loosely 62-62-72-72 sts. Knit 1 row (wrong side row), on the next row begin Pattern 3, keeping 1 st at each edge in garter st throughout. Repeat pattern 3 times total. The piece measures approx. 13 cm. Knit 2 rows stockinette st. Then knit 1 tucked ridge - see instructions above, then 2 rows stockinette st, then knit 1 tucked ridge. The piece measures approx. 15 cm, continue with stockinette st to finished measurements.
At the same time (after tucked ridges) inc 1 st at each side 16-18-15-18 times every 7-6-7-6 rows = 94-98-102-108 sts.
When the piece measures 50 cm bind off 3 sts at each side for sleeve cap = 88-92-96-102 sts. Then dec 1 st at each edge every other row 25-26-27-27 times and then every row 7-8-9-12 times.
Now dec 1 st every row at the side which will be seamed to the back 4 times and at the same time bind off 8 sts every other row 2 times at the side which will be seamed to the front, bind off remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx. 69-70-71-72 cm.

Assembly: Sew raglan seams using edge sts as seam allowance (there will be 2 stockinette st sts at the raglan transition). Sew sleeve and side seams using edge sts as a seam allowance.
Neckband: The neckband is knit in the round from center front. Pick up from center front, approx. 116-132 sts (divisible by 4) around the neck. K 1 row on wrong side row. Then knit rib-1 keeping 1 st in garter st + K 2 at each side at the center front. When neckband measures 2 cm bind off all sts in rib. Lay one side over the other at center front and stitch down.

Diagram

symbols = stockinette st/knit (as seen from the right side)
symbols = reverse stockinette st/purl (as seen from the right side)
symbols = P 2 tog
symbols = Slip 2 sts, return to left hand needle 1 by 1, twisting each, then P 2 tog
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = Slip 1 as if to knit, K 1, psso.
symbols = Slip 1 as if to knit, K 2 tog, psso.
symbols = on front and sleeves: yo
on back: inc 1 st by pulling up a st from previous row and purl
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (34)

country flag Hahnwald wrote:

Ich verstehe den Tipp nicht. Heißt das auf der Vorderseite 2 Maschen zusammen stricken dann 1 randmasche, 1 li, 2 Re, 1 li, 2 Maschen zusamenstricken dannMuster weiter stricken dann 2 Maschen zusammen, 1 randmasche, 1 li, 2 Re,1 li,2 Maschen zusammen stricken. Das macht aber kein Sinn

15.01.2023 - 20:35

country flag Mieke Baras wrote:

In vervolg op je antwoord op 3 september: mijn probleem zit in wat je precies moet doen na dat je 24 st overhoudt. Kant af aan de mouw die bij het rugpand zit, 1 st 4 keer op elke nld. Tegelijk aan de kant van de mouw die bij het voorpand zit, 8 st 2 keer op elke nld. Wil dat zeggen dat je ineens 8st afkant en dit tweemaal? Dan heb je 4 st over en dus zie ik niet hoe die mouw dan met 4st gaat passen tussen voorpand en rug. Ik snap het echt niet hoor

13.09.2021 - 13:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mieke,

Klopt je kant 2 keer 8 steken af aan de kant van het voorpand en 1 keer 4 steken aan de kant van het achterpand. (Dit zorgt ervoor dat de ronding van de hals doorloopt in de mouw.) Tot slot kant je de laatste steken van de mouw af.

17.09.2021 - 10:09

country flag Mieke Baras wrote:

Hoeveel steken blijven er over op de mouw als alle afkantingen zijn gebeurd?

01.09.2021 - 14:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mieke,

Je begint met 88-92-96-102 steken. Je kant 25-26-27-27 steken aan weerszijden af = 38-40-42-48 steken. Dan nog een keer 7-8-9-12 keer 1 steek = 24-24-24-24 steken over.

03.09.2021 - 09:28

country flag Mieke Baras wrote:

Uw antwoord op 27/8 gaat over M3, terwijl ik het heb over de decoratiekant nadat M3 is gebreid.

28.08.2021 - 15:02

country flag Mieke Baras wrote:

Ik wil een suggestie doen om de uitleg van de decoratiekant te verduidelijken. Maak bvb duidelijk dat de eerste nld waar je de omslagen breit niet bij de 4 tricotnld horen. Zo krijg je inderdaad na de nld met de omslagen 4 tricotnlden, en pas daarna moet je de koppen van de langgerekte steken ophalen! Er zijn dus in totaal 6 naalden nodig voor deze ribbel.

27.08.2021 - 20:36

country flag Mieke Baras wrote:

Hoeveel naalden gaan er in 1 decoratiekant die ik brei in de mouw van 74-7? 4 of 5 ? De beschrijving zegt 4 naalden. Klopt het dat die beginnen nadat je de eerste naald met omslagen hebt gebreid? Brei je op de teruggaande naalden averecht of recht? Als ik tricot brei dan ziet het resultaat er bij mij heel anders uit dan op de foto. Graag je hulp aub

26.08.2021 - 09:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mieke,

Je breit eerst een naald aan de verkeerde kant. Dan begin je met telpatroon M.3 heen en weer gebreid. Het telpatroon herhaal je 3 keer in de hoogte. (In de breedte 6 of 7 keer, afhankelijk van je maat.) Dus als je alle naalden van het telpatroon hebt gebreid, doe je dit daarna nog 2 keer.

27.08.2021 - 10:27

country flag Mieke Baras wrote:

Ik brei 74-7 en ben nu met de decoratiekant van de mouwen bezig. Hoeveel naalden bevat dit? Je begint aan de goede kant met de omslagen. Die laat je vallen op de averechte kant. Wat doe je dan op de 3de naald, de goede kant? Op de 4de naald sluit je al deze lange steken, maar hoe doe je dat als je niet weet wat je op de 3de naald moet doen?

25.08.2021 - 18:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mieke,

De omslagen laat je niet vallen op de mouw, maar brei je averecht op de verkeerde kant, zodat er een gaatje ontstaat.

27.08.2021 - 10:30

country flag Mieke Baras wrote:

De diagrammen tonen dus zowel teruggaande als heengaande naalden, maar hoe kan ik de 30st boord 2/2 ook minderen nadat de telpatronen 1x in de hoogte zijn gebreid? Kan je mij uitleggen hoe ik dan het motief opnieuw kan breien? Ik zie het echt niet.

30.07.2021 - 16:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mieke,

Je breit door in het motief, totdat de diagonale lijn helemaal weg is in de zijnaden en je alleen nog maar 2 recht, 2 averecht hebt. Dus de plek war je moet minderen en waar je een omslag moet maken verschuift steeds 1 steek, dit zet je gewoon voort, totdat je alleen boordsteek hebt.

19.08.2021 - 13:23

country flag Mieke Baras wrote:

Ik heb de naalden op de beide diagrammen M1 en M2 genummerd van 1 tot en met 53, zijnde de heengaande nlden. Nlden 2 tot en met 54 zijn de teruggaande of de nld aan de verkeerde kant. Dan brei ik de steken zoals ze zich voordoen. Is dat fout? Op de eerste pg vd werkbeschrijving staat immers: de diagrammen tonen het motief vd heengaande nld! Hoeveel naalden bevatten deze diagrammen dus? 27 of 53? Met andere woorden, na hoeveel naalden zijn deze motieven klaar? Met veel dank

30.07.2021 - 10:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mieke,

Alle naalden zijn in het telpatroon weergegeven, dus zowel de heengaande als de teruggaande naalden. Naald 1 is aan de goede kant, naald 2 aan de verkeerde kant, enzovoort. De teruggaande naalden brei je inderdaad de steken zoals ze zich voordoen.

02.08.2021 - 21:09

country flag Antonia wrote:

Hallo, mir ist nicht ganz klar wieviel Maschen beim Vorderteil noch auf der Nadel sind , wenn die Abnahmen von V-Ausschnitt und Ärmel komplett abgeschlossen sind?

23.06.2021 - 19:12

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Antonia, es sind keine Maschen mehr am Ende von den beiden Seiten beim Vorderteil, dh es wird für den Raglan und dann gleichzeitig für den V-Ausschnitt abgenommen, bis keine Maschen übrig sind. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.06.2021 - 08:25