DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 93-37
Mesurements: width top: approx 200 cm, Length mid back: approx 70 cm

Materials:Alpaca
300g colour no 0618, beige

DROPS circular needle size 4.5mm

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 20 sts x 26 rows on needles size 4.5mm in stocking stitch = 10x10cm,
Pattern: See diagram M.1 and M.2, the diagram shows the pattern from the right side. 1st row in M.1A and M.1B = 20 sts. Begin at arrow in bottom right hand corner after 1 edge st and finish at arrow in bottom left hand corner before 1 edge st.


Read the entire pattern before knitting it!

Shawl: Due to number of sts, knit shawl back and forth on a circular needle. Start at the top and knit down and out. Cast on 6 sts on needle size 4.5mm and knit 1 row – NB: knit first and last st (edge sts) on each row in garter stitch and the middle 2 sts on needle in stocking sts until finished measurements. Continue as follows:
1st row (= right side): 1 edge st, increase 1 st by picking up thread between sts and knit this into back of st, knit 1, yarn over needle, knit 2 (middle 2 sts), yarn over needle, knit 1, increase 1 st by picking up thread between sts and knit this into back of st, 1 edge st.
2nd row (= wrong side): Knit, but purl the middle 2 sts (stocking stitch)
3rd row: 1 edge st, increase1 st as described under 1st row, knit and make a yo just before the middle 2 sts, knit these, yo, knit until 1 edge st left on needle, increase 1 st as before, knit edge st.
4th row: as 2nd row
Repeat row 3 and 4 until there are 38 sts on needle. NB: When there’re 38 sts on needle, purl the row from the wrong side. Now purl 1 row from the right side, knit 1 row from wrong side, knit 1 row from right side, at the same time knitting edge sts and middle 2 sts as before and making increases as before = 46 sts.
Now knit M.1 (berry pattern) as follows:
1st row (= wrong side): 1 edge st, M.1A over the next 20 sts, purl 4, M.1B over the next 20 sts, 1 edge st.
Continue like this following M.1A and M.1B, at the same time increasing on each side of the middle 2 sts as before (the increases at edges are incorporated into M.1).
NB: purl the increased sts on each side of the middle 2 sts from the right side and knit them from the wrong side until the sts fit into the pattern, i.e. increase 5 sts on each side before incorporating these into the pattern.

Continue in pattern until shawl measures approx 48 cm mid back. Now knit M.2 once (first row = wrong side), at the same time knitting edge sts as before and increasing each side of the 2 middle sts as before. Additionally, increase 1 st eiach side within the edge sts on every other row by picking up thread between sts and knit this into back of st. After M.2, continue in leaf pattern as follows (knit edge sts as before and make increases each side of the 2 middle sts as before):
1st row (= wrong side): (remember edge st), *K9, P5*, repeat from *-* until the middle 2 sts as long as number of sts are dividable by 14 (when, due to increased sts, there isn’t room for a whole report, K the remaining sts), P the 2 middle sts, and knit leaf pattern mirrored, i.e. equal amount of knitted sts on each side of the 2 middle sts before purling 5. Finish pattern with K9 before edge st.
2nd row (= right side): (remember edge st and increases): Purl until 5 sts before the first 5 sts in stocking stitch, now *yon, K1, yo, P4, K5, P4*, repeat from *-* towards the middle but finish the report with yo, K1, yo after the last P4, and purl until the middle 2 sts (remember increases). After the 2 middle sts, knit pattern mirrored.
3rd row: K over K and P over P (purl yo’s in leaf pattern)
4th row: P until first leaf (leaf = 3 K sts), then *K1, yo, K1, yo, K1, P4, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, K1, K2 tog, P4*, repeat from *-* towards the middle and finish with K1, yo, K1, yo, K1. Now purl after the last leaf to middle sts. After the 2 middle sts, knit pattern mirrored.
5th row: As 3rd row
6th row: P until first leaf (leaf = 5 K sts), then *K2, yo, K1, yo, K2, P4, slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso, P4*, repeat from *-* towards the middle and finish with K2, yo, K1, yo, K2. Nnow purl after the last leaf to middle sts. After the 2 middle sts, knit pattern mirrored.
7th row: K until first leaf, then *P7, K9*, *, repeat from *-* towards the middle. After the 2 middle sts, knit pattern mirrored.
8th row: K over K, P over P
9th row: As 3rd row
10th row: Purl until 5 sts before the outer most leaf (leaf is in stocking sts), *yo, K1, yo, P4, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, K3, K2 tog, P4*, repeat from *-* towards the middle and finish with yo, K1, yo. Now purl to middle sts. After the 2 middle sts, knit pattern mirrored.
11th row: As 3rd row

Repeat from 4th (inclusive) to 11th (inclusive) row another 3 times. Then knit from 4th (inclusive) to 9th (inclusive) row 1 time. Now finish leaf pattern as follows (from the right side):

1st row: P until outer most leaf, then *slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, K3, K2 tog, P9*, repeat from *-* towards the middle. Purl after the decreases in the last leaf towards the middle. After the 2 middle sts, knit pattern mirrored.
2nd row: K over K and P over P, but inc. as follows in the 9 knitted sts between each leaf: K2, inc. 1 st, K5, inc. 1 st, K2.
3rd row: Knit over all sts, but cast off at each side in each leaf as done for the 4th row in pattern.
4th row: P the 3 leaf sts, K all other sts, but inc. between each leaf as follows: K2, inc. 1 st, K7, inc. 1 st, K2.
5th row: Knit all sts and cast of the 3 leaf sts as done for the 6th row.

Knit 1 row from the wrong side (knit 2 middle sts as before). Knit 1 row from the right side with inc. at sides and in middle as before and then K 1 row form the wrong side (P 2 middle sts). Cast off loosely. To ensure the edge doesn’t become too tight, make a yo after approx every 5th st whilst casting off (cast off yo’s as well).



Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = in this st work: K1, P1, K1, P1
symbols = P4 tog, tighten thread
symbols = cast on 5 new sts at the end of this row
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Birte Schulz wrote:

Hallo, Ich scheitere an dem Blattmuster, gibt es ein Diagramm oder ein Videotutorial? Ich habe versucht, mit anderer Wolle das Blattmuster auszuprobieren, aber ich bekomme das nicht hin! Ich scheitere bereits an Reihe 2.... Vielen Dank für Ihre Mühe und Geduld mit mir.

15.08.2023 - 20:20

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schultz, wir haben dafür nur die schriftliche Anleitung. Versuchen Sie mal mit Markierungen (je eine Markierung vor/nach den 14 Maschen bei der 1. Reihe einsetzen) und unbedingt am Anfang vom Blattmuster (nach den Zunahmen) und am Ende vom Blattmuster (von den Zunahmen), es kann Ihnen helfen; Die Maschenanzahl wird beim Blattmuster zuerst zunehmen dann abnehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.08.2023 - 09:07

country flag Fouillade wrote:

J'en suis au Motif feuilles. R1 : pourquoi les mailles sont elle inversées après les 2 mailles centrales, 9 mailles env deviennent end et pareil pour les 5 mailes suivantes ? R2 : 5 m env avant les 5 premières m jersey : je ne comprends pas ce que cela veut dire. Merci de votre aide.

22.08.2019 - 15:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Fouillade, au 1er rang sur l'envers, le motif doit être symétrique, en fonction de votre nombre de mailles, vous tricotez à l'endroit (après les 5 m end) jusqu'aux 2 mailles centrales, et tricotez l'autre côté en sens inverse. Le rang 2 a été corrigé: on tricote à l'envers jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 5 m avant les 5 premières m jersey, puis on répète de *-*. Bon tricot!

23.08.2019 - 08:55

country flag Dorthe Nielsen wrote:

Tak - ja det kan jeg se da jeg fortsatte med mønsteret. Men tak.

07.12.2008 - 17:46

country flag Lotta wrote:

Hej Dorthe! Sjalen stickas från nacken (under hennes hår) och nedåt-utåt. Så även om du börjar men brombär kommer de att hamna överst som på bilden. Mvh, Lotta

06.12.2008 - 08:40

country flag Dorthe Nielsen wrote:

Er lige begyndt på dette sjal men når jeg følger opskriften kommer brombær mønster til at være i bunden og blade i top - men sådan er den jo ikke på billedet. Jeg er helt forvirret.

05.12.2008 - 18:37

country flag Merethe Bering wrote:

Jeg har strikket 3 sjal med brombær og bladmønster. Jeg synes, det er synd at der kommer sådan en bule, der hvor man starter sjalet. Altså sådan et stykke, som man er nød til at bøje ned, når man har det på. Kan I udtænke en anden måde at starte på?

03.02.2008 - 13:30

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

If you look immediately above the diagram, you will find lines starting with an = sign. These are the translations, and they are given in the same vertical order as the chart symbols within the diagram.

15.06.2007 - 16:25

country flag Elaine Bowman wrote:

The diagram for this pattern is in Norwegian. How to I get it in English?

15.06.2007 - 16:13