DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.55$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 93-12
Hat: one-size

Scarf: approx. 20 x 90 cm [7-7/8" x 35-3/8"]

Materials:
Garnstudio ALPACA
100 gr nr 100, natural
small amount (approx. 7 gr) nr 618, beige multicolor
small amount (approx. 5 gr) nr 3720, dusty pink
small amount (approx. 10 gr) nr 3800, raspberry
small amount (approx. 14 gr) nr 601, dark brown
and use:
Garnstudio SNOW
small amount (approx. 5 gr) each nr 30 light pink and nr 32 dark purple heather

Accessories: 2 small safety pins for blossoms.

DROPS 3.5 mm [US 4] straight and double-pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.55$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
DROPS 7 mm [US K] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 28 sts x 30 rows in Pattern = 10x10 cm

Pattern: See the charts for Model No. 12 on page 21 of Drops No. 93. The pattern is seen from the right side.



Hat: Loosely cast on 140 sts on double-pointed needles with dark brown Alpaca; join and place a marker at the join. K 1 row, P 1 row, then knit Pattern 1, following stripes in Pattern 4.
When Pattern 1 is complete (20 rows), continue with natural white and Pattern 2 until the piece measures approx. 12 cm from bottom points.
Then knit Pattern 3, decreasing as shown in chart. After Pattern 3, 40 sts remain on needles, cut yarn, pull through the remaining sts and fasten neatly. Hat measures approx. 22 cm from bottom points.

Crocheted blossoms: Ch 4 with light pink Snow and join into a ring with 1 sl st.
Next row: * ch 6, 1 sc in ring *, repeat * - * a total of 5 times, cut yarn and fasten.
Sew a small safety pin on back side of blossom. Crochet a second blossom in dark purple and fasten blossoms on hat.


Scarf: Loosely cast on 87 sts on straight needles with dark brown Alpaca. K 2 rows garter st (row 1 = right side) and the next row as follows from right side: K 3 (edge sts knit in garter st), Pattern 5 over the following 80 sts, then knit the 1st st at start of Pattern 5 (so that the pattern starts and ends identically at each side) and finish with K 3 (edge sts knit in garter st). Continue the pattern as established in stripes following Pattern 4 – row 1 of Pattern 4 has already been knit.
When Pattern 5 is complete there are 63 sts. Continue with natural white and Pattern 2, keeping 3 edge sts in garter st at each side. Make the pattern start and end identically at each side as before.
When the piece measures approx. 80 cm knit Pattern 5 again, in stripes following Pattern 4, but start at the top of both charts so that the ends of the scarf will be the same. You will be increasing sts in Pattern 5 by knitting 2 sts in 1 st instead of decreasing.
When Pattern 5 and Pattern 4 are complete there are 87 sts. K 1 row (from wrong side), then knit the 1st row of Pattern 5 at the same time as you bind off so that the bound-off edge «waves» in the pattern.


GLOVES:

Sizes: (XS/S) M/L

Materials:
Garnstudio ALPACA
50 gr nr 100, natural
small amount (approx. 10 gr) nr 601, dark brown
small amount (approx. 7 gr) nr 618, beige heather
small amount (approx. 5 gr) nr 3720, rose
small amount (approx. 5 gr) nr 3800, raspberry

DROPS 2.5 mm [US 1] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 32 sts x 34 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm
25 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm


Pattern: See the charts for Model No. 12 on page 21 of Drops No. 93. The pattern is seen from the right side.

= dark brown
= beige heather
= raspberry
= natural
= dusty pink

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= yo
= slip 1 as if to K, K 1, psso
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 as if to K, K 2 tog, psso.


Measuring tips: All measurements include points.


Right glove: Cast on (80) 96 sts on 2 needles with dark brown. Pull out one needle and divide sts on 4 double-pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. K 1 row and P 1 row.
Then knit Pattern 6 in stripes following Pattern 4. After Pattern 6 is complete there are (50) 60 sts. Continue with natural in Pattern 7 (the last 4 rows of Pattern 6) to finished measurements.
When the piece measures (11) 12 cm – see Measuring tips – knit Pattern 8, decreasing 2 sts evenly distributed on last row of Pattern 8 for size M/L (do not dec for size XS/S) = (50) 58 sts.
After Pattern 8 knit the next row as follows: (25) 29 sts stockinette st (= palm), place a marker (= side), (3) 5 sts stockinette st, Pattern 9 (= 19 sts/back of hand), (3) 5 sts stockinette st, place a marker (= side). Continue in pattern as established.

Thumb: On the 2nd row of Pattern 9 (the piece measures approx. (13) 14 cm), inc for thumb at each side of the 2nd st on row. Inc every other row (5) 6 times = (11) 13 thumb sts – inc 1 st by pulling up and knitting a st from previous row.When the piece measures (18) 20 cm put the (11) 13 thumb sts on a st holder. Cast on 1 new st in back of st holder = (50) 58 sts, continue the pattern as before.
When the piece measures approx. (22) 24 cm – adjust to end after a K row – knit 2 rows stockinette st, decreasing evenly distributed to (46) 54 sts on the last row.
Put the first and last (19) 22 sts on row on st holders and knit little finger over the (8) 10 sts remaining.

Little finger: Cast on (4) 4 new sts toward sts on st holder = (12) 14 sts, divide sts onto 3 double-pointed needles; join and knit stockinette st until finger measures approx. (4.5) 6 cm. Now K 2 tog around row, cut yarn and pull through remaining sts.Put sts from st holders back on needles and pick up 2 sts toward little finger = (40) 46 sts, join and knit 3 rows stockinette st over all sts. Put sts back on st holders, that is, the (20) 23 sts from palm and (20) 23 sts from back of hand.
Ring finger: Put (7) 8 sts from each st holder back on needles and cast on 2 new sts toward middle finger = (16) 18 sts. Join and divide sts on 3 double-pointed needles and knit stockinette st until finger measures approx. (6.5) 8 cm. K 2 tog across row, cut yarn and pull through remaining sts.
Middle finger: Put (6) 7 sts from each st holder back on needles, pick up (3) 4 sts toward ring finger and cast on 3 new sts toward index finger = (18) 21 sts. Join and divide sts on 3 double-pointed needles and knit stockinette st until finger measures approx. (7) 8.5 cm. K 2 tog across row, cut yarn and pull through remaining sts.Index finger: Put remaining (14) 16 sts on needles, pick up (3) 4 sts toward middle finger = (17) 20 sts. Join and divide sts on 3 double-pointed needles and knit stockinette st until finger measures approx. (5.5) 7 cm. K 2 tog across row, cut yarn and pull through remaining sts.Thumb: Put the (11) 13 sts on st holders onto needles and pick up (7) 8 sts in back of these sts = (18) 21 sts. Join and divide sts on 3 double-pointed needles and knit stockinette st for approx. (5) 6 cm, then K 2 tog around row, cut yarn and pull through the remaining sts.Left glove: Knit the same as the right but reverse shaping. After Pattern 8 knit the next row as follows: place a marker (= side), (3) 5 sts stockinette st, Pattern 9 (= 19 sts/back of hand), (3) 5 sts stockinette st, place a marker (= side), (25) 29 sts stockinette st (= palm) and inc for thumb at each side of next to last st on row.



Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = dark brown
symbols = beige heather
symbols = raspberry
symbols = natural
symbols = dusty pink
symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Monique wrote:

Ik heb voor de handschoen 80 steken opgezet, die staan nu op 5 naalden, brei ik die nu zo verder dus met 6 naalden en brei ik dat niet in het rond?

26.05.2018 - 05:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Monique, Je zet de 80 steken op met 2 breinaalden en dan trek je er 1 naald uit. Op die manier heb je steken losjes en gelijkmatig opgezet. Daarna verdeel je die 80 steken over sokkenbreinaalden en brei je in de rondte. (je kan ipv sokkenbreinaalden ook een rondbreinaald nemen). Bij sokkenbreinaalden is het het handgist om de steken over 3 naalden te verdelen en dan met de vierde naald te breien.

27.05.2018 - 19:45

country flag Pia Møller Hansen wrote:

Det er kun huen der skal laves som den ses her men ved ikk hvor meget jeg skal bruge i natur farve bundfarven , men er 50 g nok til den største str.

13.03.2017 - 15:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia. Som jeg skrev i mit forrige svar, saa vil jeg tro at du har nok i 50 gr hvis du laver den med striberne (ogsaa i den store str).

14.03.2017 - 14:50

country flag Pia Møller Hansen wrote:

Det er kun huen der skal laves som den ses her men ved ikk hvor meget jeg skal bruge i natur farve bundfarven , men er 50 g nok til den største str.

13.03.2017 - 15:43

country flag Pia Møller Hansen wrote:

Hvor meget skal der bruges til kun huen

13.03.2017 - 15:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia. Det ved jeg desvaerre ikke. Men jeg vil skyde paa at du har nok i 1 nögle Alpaca naturel og saa rester til kanterne. Vil du strikke den i 1 farve, ville jeg nok tage 2 nögler for at vaere helt sikker.

13.03.2017 - 15:39

Corina wrote:

Is this a free pattern or not? It seems like teaser for a movie: some information but most of the plot left out. If the pattern is available for free where is the rest of it?

12.04.2016 - 04:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Corina, you will find on this page the free pattern for hat, scarf and gloves. Diagrams M.1 to M.9 are at the very bottom of the pattern (read more here about diagrams) and you will find related videos to that pattern under thumb "videos". Happy knitting!

12.04.2016 - 09:24

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

Kajsa, du har rätt. Självklart är det M.8 först, och sedan kommer M.9. Vi har rättat i mönstret. Tack ska du ha!

23.05.2008 - 16:47

country flag Kajsa wrote:

Jag tror att jag har hittat ett eventuellt fel i mönstret på vantarna, men är ej säker... Det står att när arbetet mäter (11) 12 cm - se mått-tips - stickas M.9 - samtidigt på sista v i M.8 minskas 2 m jämnt fördelat i stl M/L (minska ingen m i stl XS/S) = (50) 58 m. Där det står att man ska sticka M 9 borde det väl vara M 8 det ska vara? M 9 kommer ju senare och ska vara på handens ovansida...

21.05.2008 - 19:49

country flag Bo Må Nb Er G0 wrote:

Självklart behövs det hjälp med ma an st ro et no bb ed

09.07.2007 - 16:27

country flag milla wrote:

10.11.2006 - 23:43