DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 88-23
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-100-110-120 cm [33" - 36.25" - 39-3/8" - 43.25" - 47.25"]
Hem: 76-84-90-102-110 cm [29-7/8" - 33" - 35-3/8" - 40-1/8" - 43.25"]

Materials: DROPS VIVALDI
100-100-150-150-150 gr nr 19, lime

DROPS 7 mm [US 10½] circular and double-pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Accessories: Narrow ribbon (for the neck edge).

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 13 sts x 18 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Knitting tips (for raglan shaping):
Dec 1 st in each transition between sleeve, front and back (start 3 sts before the marker) as follows: K 2 tog, K 2 (the marker sits between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso.

Rib: * K 4, P 4 *, repeat * - *.

Body: Loosely cast on 98-108-118-132-144 sts on circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit stockinette st.
When the piece measures 5-5-6-6-6 cm knit the next row as follows: * K 2 tog, yo*, repeat * - * around the entire row (= folding edge), then continue in stockinette st.
When the piece measures 5-5-6-6-6 cm from folding edge (both sides of stockinette st should be the same length), fold the bottom 5-5-6-6-6 cm to wrong side. On the next row, knit through both layers, that is, K the 1st st on needle together with the 1st st of cast-on edge, K the 2nd st on needle together with the next st of cast-on edge, etc. Then knit stockinette st as before. Put a marker at each side (49-52-59-66-72 sts on front and back).
When the piece measures 12 cm inc 1 st at each side of each marker every 8 cm a total of 3 times = 110-120-130-144-156 sts.
When the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40 cm bind off 4 sts at each side of each marker for armhole = 47-52-57-64-70 sts remain on front and back.
Lay piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve: Loosely cast on 30-30-32-34-36 sts on double-pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit stockinette st.
When the piece measures 8 cm knit the next row as follows: * K 2 tog, yo *, repeat * - * rows (= folding edge), then continue in stockinette st.
When the piece measures 8 cm from folding edge, fold the bottom 8 cm to wrong side and knit together in the same manner as on Body. Continue in stockinette st as before.
When the piece measures 10 cm inc 1 st each side of marker every 2.5-1.5-1.5-1.5-1 cm a total of 7-9-9-9-10 times = 44-48-50-52-56 sts.
When the piece measures 28-26-25-24-23 cm bind off 8 sts each side of marker = 36-40-42-44-48 sts. Lay piece aside and knit second sleeve.

Yoke: Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as Body where you bound off for armholes = 166-184-198-216-236 sts. Put a marker in each transition between front, back and the sleeve (= 4 markers). Knit 1 row before beginning shaping.

Raglan shaping: Dec 1 st at each side of each marker = 8 decs per row. Dec every other row: 5-5-6-6-7 times – see knitting tips above. After last dec 126-144-150-168-180 sts remain on needles.

Neckband: P 1 row, then K 1 row, adjusting to 24-24-32-32-32 sts over each sleeve and 32-40-40-48-56 sts over front and back = 112-128-144-160-176 sts. Continue in rib – be sure that the K 4 at each raglan transition continues up into neckband.
When the rib measures 4-5-5-6-6 cm dec all K 4 to K 3 by K 2 tog the center 2 sts = 98-112-126-140-154 sts.
When the rib measures 8-9-9-10-10 cm dec all P 4 to P 3 = 84-96-108-120-132 sts.
When the rib measures 12-13-13-14-14 cm dec all P 3 to P 2 = 70-80-90-100-110 sts.
On the next row bind off all sts in rib.

Assembly: Sew opening under the sleeve. Sew a thin ribbon at the top of neck edge so that the edge holds its shape.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 88-23

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Cindy Stocum wrote:

I am so confused how attach the sleeves. You just slide them onto the circular needles? And then what? Which working yarn do you use from - the body of sleeve? Also binding off armholes in the middle of my work is difficult to understand.

03.02.2023 - 08:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Stocum, this video shows how to work sleeves on the same circular needle as body, and how to decrease for raglan (remember to follow instructions in the pattern, video is just showing the technique). Happy knitting!

03.02.2023 - 08:41

country flag Beate Francke-Kern wrote:

Der Halsausschnitt scheint mir etwas zu groß/weit. Wie kann ich ihn ein wenig enger machen? Danke für dieses Angebot.

29.04.2022 - 11:34

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Francke-Kern, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen - am besten fragen Sie Ihr DROPS Laden (auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail), oder vielleicht können Sie auch andere Strickerinnen in unserem < a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/DROPSWorkshop/">DROPS Workshop mal fragen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.04.2022 - 13:11

country flag Rockford wrote:

The neckband directIons are very hard to understand. Do you mean p1,k1,p1,k1etc not p1 row, k1 row?What does it mean to 'adjust' over each sleeve? Decrease? How? Starting the rib not explained.

24.01.2015 - 03:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Rockford, for neckband, you first P1 row and K1 row, at the same time you will inc/dec evenly (see size) number of sts over sleeve and body to get the correct number of sts for each piece. Then work in rib with K4 at each raglan transition as before. Happy knitting!

24.01.2015 - 09:52

Barbara wrote:

I am at the part where you bind off the 1st sleeve. I am making a medium. It says when sleeve measures 10cm incorporate 1 st each side of marker a total of 9 times (48 sts total). Then when piece measures 26cm "bind off 8 sys each side of marker=40 sts". It cannot equal 40 if the total sts binding off is 16 (8 on each side). Do I bind off 4 on each side of marker or 8? And if I bind of each side of marker and leave the marker wouldn't that be weird to have 1 stitch in the middle still left?

18.01.2015 - 00:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Barbara, you have to bind off 8 sts each side (= 4 sts each side of each marker). Happy knitting!

19.01.2015 - 14:34

country flag Lyda wrote:

Bonjour. pour l'encolure il est marqué,ajuster pour les manches a 24 mailles et pour le dos et le devant a40 mailles,ajuster cela veut-il dire diminuer?je ne comprends pas.

15.11.2014 - 11:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lyda, effectivement, on répartit des diminutions à intervalles réguliers pour qu'il y ait 26 m pour chaque manche et 40 m respectivement pour le dos et le devant. Bon tricot!

17.11.2014 - 09:31

Klas wrote:

In Runden! das steht ganz deutlich!

22.11.2013 - 19:29

country flag Petra wrote:

Liebes Drops-Design-Team, und noch eine kleine Frage (da ist mein erster Pullover...): wird das Körperteil in Runden gestrickt oder Hin- und zurück? Ich gehe von Hin- und Rückreihen aus, bin aber unsicher...Vielen Dank!

22.11.2013 - 11:46

country flag Petra wrote:

Was sind Ärmelnadeln?

20.11.2013 - 08:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, das ist ein Nadelspiel (Strumpfnadeln) - ich habe es in der Anleitung nun umbenannt. Es ist eine ältere Anleitung und sie ist etwas holprig übersetzt.

21.11.2013 - 08:01

country flag Cris wrote:

Il semble pourtant y avoir une couture sur la photo ?

13.10.2012 - 17:27

country flag Christine wrote:

Est-ce possible de travailler avec des aiguilles droites (non circulaires) ?

21.02.2012 - 09:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Christine, Ce pull peut tout à fait être tricoté sur aiguilles droites, mais, en allers et retours, notez que vous aurez des coutures qui n'existent pas dans le modèle d'origine, l'effet final pourrait être différent.

21.02.2012 - 18:58