DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 92-5
PULLOVER:

Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-104-120-128 cm
[34-5/8" - 37.75" - 41" - 47.25" - 50-3/8"]
Hem: 80-88-96-112-120 cm
[31.5" - 34-5/8" - 37.75" - 44" - 47.25"]

Materials:
Garnstudio SNOW
150-150-150-200-200 gr nr 11, grey green
150-150-150-200-200 gr nr 13, beige
100-100-150-150-150 gr nr 31, light blue
100-100-100-100-100 gr nr 01, natural
100-100-100-100-100 gr nr 09, dusty pink
100-100-100-100-100 gr nr 16, pink/beige varieg.
100-100-100-100-100 gr nr 30, light pink
50 - 50 - 50 - 50 - 50 gr nr 35, lime

DROPS 8 mm [US 11] and 9 mm [US 13] needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.
DROPS 7 mm [US K] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: * K 4, P 4 *, repeat from * - *.

Stripes: See the charts for Model No. 5 on page 18 of Drops No. 92. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Front: Cast on 42-46-50-58-62 sts on smaller needles with beige. Knit stripes following Pattern 1 (M.1 chart), and knit he first 4 cm in rib as follows: Sizes S, L and XL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * K 4, P 4 *, repeat from * - * and finish with K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Sizes M and XXL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * K 4, P 4 *, repeat from * - * and finish with K 4 and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
After the rib change to larger needles and reverse stockinette st. After Pattern 1 knit Pattern 2 (M.2 chart), then continue with dusty pink to finished measurements.
When the piece measures 15 and 25 cm inc 1 st at each side = 46-50-54-62-66 sts.
When the piece measures 34-35-36-37-38 cm bind off for armhole at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-0-1-3-3 times and 1 st 1-3-2-2-3 times = 38-38-40-40-42 sts.
When the piece measures 47-49-50-52-54 cm bind off the center 8 sts for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2-2-3-3-3 times = 11-11-11-11-12 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm.

Back: Cast on the same as front. Follow stripes in Pattern 1 and knit rib for 4 cm as follows:
Sizes S, L and XL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * K 4, P 4 *, repeat from * - * and finish with K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Sizes M and XXL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * P 4, K 4 *, repeat * - *, finish with P 4 and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
After the rib continue as on front. Bind off for armhole as on front and continue until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60 cm. Now bind off the center 14-14-16-16-16 sts for the neck. On the next row dec 1 st at each neck edge = 11-11-11-11-12 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 34 sts for all sizes on smaller needles with beige. Knit stripes following Pattern 1 and knit the first 10 cm in rib, keeping 1 edge st at each side in garter st.
After the rib change to larger needles and reverse stockinette st, decreasing 4 sts evenly distributed on the first row = 30 sts.
At the same time when the piece measures 12 cm inc 1 st at each side every 11-8-6.5-4.5-3.5 cm a total of 4-5-6-8-9 times = 38-40-42-46-48 sts.
When Pattern 1 is complete, knit Pattern 2, then continue with pink/beige variegated to finished measurements. When sleeve measures 49-49-48-46-45 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-2-2-2-2 times and 1 st 2-1-2-3-4 times, then bind off 2 sts at each side until piece measures 56-57-57-57-57 cm, then bind off 3 sts 1 time at each side. The piece measures approx. 57-58-58-58-58 cm, bind off the remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew right shoulder.
Neckband: Pick up approx. 39-48 sts (divisible by 3) around the neck on smaller needles with beige. K 1 row (wrong side row), then bind off all sts with knit sts. Sew left shoulder.
Crochet around the neck with beige as follows:
Round 1: 1 sc in first st, * ch 2, skip over 2 sts, 1 sc in the next st *, repeat from * - * and finish with ch 2 and 1 sl st in first sc at start of row.
Round 2: 1 sl st in first ch-loop, ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in ch-loop, ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-loop, * skip over 1 ch-loop, in the next sc crochet 1 sc, skip over 1 ch-loop, in the next ch-loop crochet 2 dc, ch 1 and 2 dc *, repeat * - *.
Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams using edge sts as a seam allowance.


MITTENS:

Sizes: one-size

Materials:
Garnstudio SNOW
150 gr nr 09, dusty pink

Yarn information and alternatives – see last page.

Accessories: 1 safety pin for blossom.

DROPS 7 mm [US K] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Crochet gauge: 14 sl st = approx. 10 cm in width

Crochet tips: Crochet sl st in the round without joining at end of row.


Mitten: Ch 28 loosely (the chain should measure approx. 26 cm, or ch to desired length, your mitten will be approx. 5-6 cm smaller than chain) and join into a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch.
Crochet 3 rows with sl st in the back loop of each ch/sl st = 28 sl st.
Continue to crochet sl st but now through both loops. When the piece measures 13 cm make an opening for the thumb. Ch 5 loosely at the start of row, skip over the next 5 sl st and continue with sl st as before (the opening for thumb should be approx. 4 cm, if yours does not measure that, inc or dec the number of sts and skip over the same number of sts that you ch). On the next row sl st in each of the ch 5 = 28 sl st. Continue until piece measures 24 cm, or to desired length (approx. 2 cm remain to finished measurements). Now dec by skipping over every other sl st around row = 14 sl st. Crochet 1 row without decs, then on the next row dec by skipping over every other sl st around row = 7 sl st. Crochet another row with decs = 3 or 4 sl st remain. Pull yarn through the remaining sts and pull tight, fasten neatly.

Blossom: Ch 4 and join into a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch.
Round 1: * 1 sc in ring, ch 3 ,* repeat from * - * a total of 3 times and finish with 1 sl st in first sc at start of row = 3 ch-loops.
Round 2: Crochet as follows in each ch-loop: 1 sl st, 5 dc and 1 sl st = 3 petals. Turn piece and crochet the next row from blossoms back side.
Round 3: ch 1, crochet 1 sc around first sc from round 1, ch 3, crochet 1 sc in lower edge of 4th dc in first petal on row 2, then ch 3, crochet 1 sc in lower edge of the 1st dc on 2nd petal from row 2, then ch 3, 1 sc in lower edge of the 5th dc in the other petal from row 2, then ch 3, 1 sc in lower edge of the 2nd dc on 3rd petal from row 2, then ch 3 and finish with 1 sl st in first ch at start of row = 5 ch-loops. Turn piece and crochet the next row from blossom’s front side.
Round 4: Crochet as follows in each ch-loop: 1 sl st, 6 dc and 1 sl st = 5 petals. Cut yarn and fasten, and sew a safety pin on back side of blossom. Fasten blossom to one mitten.






Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = beige
symbols = grey green
symbols = light blue
symbols = natural
symbols = light pink
symbols = dusty pink
symbols = pink/beige variegated
symbols = lime
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (2)

country flag Vivi-Anne Jernberg wrote:

Jag kan inte hitta färg nr 11 och färg nr 16 någonstans har försökt i alla webbutiker jag kan finna. de finns inte med på er sida heller

06.10.2017 - 15:32

DROPS Design answered:

Tyvärr har dessa färger utått från vårt sortiment, men du kan självklart välja någon av våra andra fina färger istället.

10.10.2017 - 14:25

country flag GRUNENWALD wrote:

Le nombre de maille à monter est faux dans le descriptif. Je ne retrouve pas l'explication du dessin au niveau de la poitrine dans les shémas M1 ET M2.

03.12.2013 - 10:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Grunewald, le nombre de mailles a été corrigé, merci. Les motifs que vous voyez différents au niveau des diagrammes sont les rayures réalisés en couleur n°16 rose-beige. Cette couleur n'est malheureusement plus disponible mais votre magasin saura vous orienter vers une autre si nécessaire. Bon tricot!

03.12.2013 - 20:43