DROPS 88-20 by DROPS Design

Crochet top in "Safran" for both women and girls.

  • DROPS 88-20 - Crochet top in Safran for both women and girls.
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DROPS design: Pattern no E-019+E-006-bn
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Women:
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Materials: DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300 g colour no 50, light ice blue

DROPS Crochet hook size 4 mm.

Girls:
Sizes:
5/6 years- 7/8 years - 9/10 years -11/12 years -13/14 years
110/116-122/128-134/140-146/152-158/164 cm
Materials: DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200-200 g colour no 50, light ice blue

DROPS Crochet hook size 4 mm.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton
from 0.80 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 0.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Women:
Crochet tension: Remember hook size is only a guide.
18 treble crochets in width and approx. 11 rows in height with hook size 4 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Because of our different crochet techniques, the crochet tension can vary from person to person; you can increase or decrease a hook size if necessary to get the right tension.

Decrease tip (for armholes and neck):
Decrease as follows at beginning of row:
Replace 1 treble crochet with 1 slip stitch.
Decrease as follows at end of row:
Turn piece when you have the number of decreases to be made left on row and work back.

Pattern: See Diag.1

Crochet info: The first treble crochet on each row is replaced by 3 chain stitches and each row finishes with 1 treble crochet in the 3rd chain stitch from the previous row.

Crochet tip (3 treble crochets together):
Work 1 treble crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 2 stitches on hook), work 1 new treble crochet in the same stitch/space, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 3 stitches on hook), work 1 new treble crochet in same stitch/space but now pull the last yarn over through all 4 loops on the hook.
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Back piece: Work 97-109-121-136-151 chain stitches (incl. 3 chain stitches to turn) with hook size 4 mm and Safran.
The first row is worked as follows: 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* to end of row = 64-72-80-90-100 treble crochets, turn piece. Read Crochet info! Then work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet (work in each treble crochet, not between). Remember the crochet tension. When piece measures 8 cm increase in each side by working 1 extra treble crochet in the next outermost treble crochet in each side. Repeat the increase every 6-6-9-9-10 cm 3-3-2-2-2 more times = 72-80-86-96-106 treble crochets. Insert 1 marker thread mid back and allow it to follow your work upwards. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37 cm decrease for armholes in each side every row - read Decrease tip: 3 treble crochets 1-1-1-2-2 times, 2 treble crochets 1-2-3-3-4 times and 1 treble crochet 4-5-5-6-8 times = 54-56-58-60-62 treble crochets. When piece measures 48-50-52-54-56 cm decrease for neck as follows (you have just 2 rows left): Work treble crochets until there are 13-14-14-14-15 treble crochets left before the marker thread, turn and work back at the same time as you decrease 1 treble crochet towards neck - see Decrease tip = 13-13-14-15-15 treble crochets left on shoulder. Cut the strand and repeat on the other side of neck, piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58 cm.

Front piece: Work 94-106-118-136-148 chain stitches (incl. 3 chain stitches to turn) with hook size 4 mm and Safran.
The first row is worked as follows: 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* a total of 11-13-15-18-20 times = 24-28-32-38-42 treble crochets. Then work as follows - read Crochet tip: 1 chain stitch, skip 3 chain stitches, in next chain stitch work 3 treble crochets together, 4 chain stitches and 3 treble crochets together, 1 chain stitch, skip 3 chain stitches, * 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2 chain stitches, skip 1 chain stitch *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 1 chain stitch, skip 2 chain stitches, in next chain stitch work 3 treble crochets together, 4 chain stitches and 3 treble crochets together, 1 chain stitch, skip 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2 chain stitches,*, repeat from *-* a total of 11-13-15-18-20 times = 24-28-32-38-42 treble crochets, turn piece. Continue in this way upwards with treble crochets in each side and Diag.1 over the middle stitches. When piece measures 8 cm increase in each side as for back piece = 28-32-35-41-45 treble crochets in each side.
Read the whole of the next section before continuing!
Armhole: When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37 cm decrease for armholes in each side as for back piece.
Neckline: At the same time, when piece measures 41-43-44-46-47 cm decrease for neck according to Diag.3. Then decrease towards neck every row - see Decrease tip: 1 treble crochet 4-5-5-6-6 times.
After all decreases for armholes and neck there are 13-13-14-15-15 treble crochets left on shoulder. Continue working until piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm, cut strand. Repeat on the other side of neck.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams edge to edge with small neat stitches. Sew side seams in the same way.
Crochet edge: Work 1 round of chain-spaces around the neck and both armholes with hook size 4mm and Safran as follows: 1 double crochet in first stitch, * 5 chain stitches, skip 1 row (approx. 1 cm), 1 double crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet at beginning of round.




GIRLS:

Crochet tension: Remember hook size is only a guide
18 treble crochets in width and approx. 11 rows in height with hook size 4 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Because of our different crochet techniques, the crochet tension can vary from person to person; you can increase or decrease a hook size if necessary to get the right tension.

Decrease tip (for armholes and neck):
Decrease as follows at beginning of row:
Replace 1 treble crochet with 1 slip stitch.
Decrease as follows at end of row:
Turn piece when you have left the number of decreases to be made and work back.

Pattern: See Diag.2

Crochet info: The first treble crochet on each row is replaced by 3 chain stitches and each row finishes with 1 treble crochet in the 3rd chain stitch from the previous row.

Crochet tip (3 treble crochets together):
Work 1 treble crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 2 stitches on hook), work 1 new treble crochet in the same stitch/space, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 3 stitches on hook), work 1 new treble crochet in same stitch/space but now pull the last yarn over through all 4 loops on the hook.
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Back piece: Work 73-82-88-91-97 chain stitches (incl. 3 chain stitches to turn) with hook size 4 mm and Safran.
The first row is worked as follows: 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* to end of row = 48-54-58-60-64 treble crochets, turn piece. Read Crochet info! Then work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet (work in each treble crochet, not between). Remember the crochet tension. When piece measures 8 cm increase in each side by working 1 extra treble crochet in the next outermost treble crochet in each side. Repeat the increase every 8 cm 1-1-2-2-2 more times = 52-58-64-66-70 treble crochets. Insert 1 marker thread mid back and allow it to follow your work upwards. When piece measures 26-28-30-31-32 cm decrease for armholes in each side every row - read Decrease tip: 3 treble crochets 1 time, 2 treble crochets 0-1-1-1-1 time and 1 treble crochet 1-1-3-3-4 times = 44-46-48-50-52 treble crochets. When piece measures 36-39-42-44-46 cm decrease for neck as follows (there are just 2 rows left): Work treble crochets until there are 9-10-10-11-12 treble crochets left before the marker thread, turn piece and work back at the same time as you decrease 1 treble crochet towards neck - see Decrease tip = 12-12-13-13-13 treble crochets left on shoulder. Cut strand and repeat on other side of neck, piece measures approx. 38-41-44-46-48 cm.

Front piece: Work 69-77-83-85-93 chain stitches (incl. 3 chain stitches to turn) with hook size 4 mm and Safran.
The first row is worked as follows: 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* a total of 7-8-9-9-11 times, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 1-2-2-3-1 chain stitches = 17-20-22-23-25 treble crochets. Then work as follows - read Crochet tip: 1 chain stitch, skip 3 chain stitches, in next chain stitch work 3 treble crochets together, 4 chain stitches and 3 treble crochets together, 1 chain stitch, skip 3 chain stitches, * 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2 chain stitches, skip 1 chain stitch *, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times, 1 chain stitch, skip 2 chain stitches, in next chain stitches work 3 treble crochets together, 4 chain stitches and 3 treble crochets together, 1 chain stitch, skip 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3-4-4-5-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2 chain stitches,*, repeat from *-* a total of 7-8-9-9-11 times = 17-20-22-23-25 treble crochets, turn piece. Continue in this way upwards with treble crochets in each side and Diag.2 over the middle stitches. When piece measures 8 cm increase in each side as for back piece = 19-22-25-26-28 treble crochets in each side.
Read the whole of the next section before continuing!
Armholes: When piece measures 26-28-30-31-32 cm decrease for armholes in each side as for back piece.
Neckline: At the same time, when piece measures 33-35-38-39-41 cm decrease for neck according to Diag.3. Then decrease towards neck every row - see Decrease tip: 1 treble crochet 1-2-2-3-4 times.
After all decreases to armholes and neck there are 12-12-13-13-13 treble crochets left on shoulder. Continue working until piece measures 38-41-44-46-48 cm and cut strand. Repeat on the other side of neck.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams edge to edge with small neat stitches. Sew side seams in the same way.
Crochet edge: Work 1 round of chain-spaces around the neck and both armholes with hook size 4mm and Safran as follows: 1 double crochet in first stitch, * 5 chain stitches, skip 1 row (approx. 1 cm), 1 double crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet at beginning of round.

Diagram

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet
symbols = 1 treble crochet
symbols = 3 treble crochets together
symbols = 1 slip stitch
diagram
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 88-20) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Heleni wrote:

I do not understand when you say*skip over a ch,1dc in each of the following*you mean that the total st will be the same n as the dc?or yoy mean ch 1 skip 1 and so on?thanks for your time

13.04.2022 - 15:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Heleni, the initial chain is longer than the back size, to ensure that the edge is not tight. In the first row, we adjust the amount of stitches to the garment size. So you need to start with a dc in the 4th ch, then skip (not work) the next chain and work 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch, skip the next chain, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch, e.t.c. Happy crochetting!

14.04.2022 kl. 18:55

country flag Karina Zand wrote:

Hallo ich habe das Top für meine Enkeltochter gearbeitet. Sie ist 7 Jahre, es ist länger geworden aber ist nicht schlimm und es lag nicht an der Anleitung diese ist leicht verständlich

09.08.2021 - 23:57

country flag Lenore wrote:

Sorry still don’t understand pattern. It looks like you should be decrease dc at armpit. Do you have a video on stitches in armpit row. I don’t understand 3 dc x1, 2dc x1, 1dcx1

12.07.2021 - 20:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lenore, that is what we say, however, not decrease, but bind off (or cast off) 3 dc once, then 2 dc once, etc. Happy Stitching!

13.07.2021 kl. 01:45

country flag Lenore wrote:

I don’t understand this instruction. When the piece measures 26-28-30-31-32 cm bind off for armhole at each side every row: 3 dc 1 time, 2 dc 0-1-1-1-1 time and 1 dc 1-1-3-3-4 times = 44-46-48-50-52 dc.

11.07.2021 - 22:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lenore, you will shape the armhole as explained under Crochet tips (for armhole and neck): at the beg of the pattern, differently in each size, eg in 1st size cast off on each side: 3 dc 1 time, and 1 dc 1 time; in 2nd size: 3 dc 1 time, 2 dc 1 time and 1 dc 1 time. Hope it will help, happy crocheting!

12.07.2021 kl. 08:03

country flag Chrismic wrote:

Je vais essayer de faire ce modèle.

12.05.2021 - 14:36

country flag Corinne Serre wrote:

Pouvez-vous me dire ce que signifie : "Travaillez en brides rabats ens" Comme c'est indiqué pour former l'encolure. Je ne comprends pas du tout de quoi il retourne quand vous dites B rabats ens !! Merci d'avance.

09.05.2021 - 17:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Corinne, il y a une erreur, elle sera corrigee. La version correcte est: 'travailler en B jusqu’à ce qu’il reste 13-14-14-14-15 B avant le marqueur...'. Bon travail!

09.05.2021 kl. 22:03

country flag GABRIELLA wrote:

E' possibile avere la traduzione in italiano? Richiesta già inviata in passato. Grazie

17.12.2020 - 11:18

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Gabriella, non troviamo la richiesta precedente, ma lo tradurremo in italiano nei prossimi giorni, tenga d'occhio il sito. Buon lavoro!

17.12.2020 kl. 11:57

country flag Sandy O wrote:

Made this for a friend”s daughter using DROPS ❤️ You 9. She really loves it.

14.08.2020 - 21:30

country flag Masson Nicole wrote:

Je suis en train de faire le débardeur en 5 et 6ans je ne comprends pas pour l'encolure diminuer à 36cm travailler en B rabat ens jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 9B avant le marqueur merci de m'expliquer B rabat ens.

21.07.2020 - 14:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Masson, en 5/6 ans, vous formez l'encolure à 33 cm en suivant le Diag. 3, autrement dit, vous crochetez maintenant les épaules séparément, et diminuez le point fantaisie du diag. 2 jusqu'à ce qu'il ne reste que les brides, et diminuez ensuite 1 bride côté encolure = il va vous rester 12 brides pour l'épaule. Bon crochet!

29.07.2020 kl. 08:39

country flag Brenda Taylor wrote:

Hello, Can you tell me how many stitches Diagram 2 is worked over? I am making the girls pattern 7/8 years & finding the first rows of both front and back confusing. I make the total stitches = 66 and you state it should be 72 in an earlier query? Thanks for your assistance.

16.05.2020 - 10:04

Brenda answered:

Hello there I can now see where I was going wrong, it's a lovely pattern. It will be the first garment I've crocheted! Regards,

16.05.2020 kl. 13:58

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