Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS | |
= inc 1 st by working 2 sts in 1 st | |
= no st (skip this square) | |
= Bobble: Work from RS: K1, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K1 in the same st (= 5 sts). Work 4 rows stocking st on these 5 sts. Now pass 2nd st on right needle over first st, 3rd st over first st, 4th st over first st and 5th st over first st (= 1 st left). | |
= Bobble: Work from RS: K1, 1 YO, K1, 1 YO, K1 in the same st (= 5 sts). Work 4 rows stocking st on these 5 sts. Now pass 2nd st on right needle over first st, 3rd st over first st, 4th st over first st and 5th st over first st (= 1 st left). | |
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P1, K3 from cable needle. | |
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle. | |
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle. |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
DROPS 92-3 |
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Pullover in Snow
DROPS 92-3 |
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Gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm. Pattern: See the charts. The pattern is seen from the right side. Rib (for neck): * K 1, P 3 *, repeat from * - *. Body: Cast on 84-92-100-116-124 sts on smaller circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. K 1 row, then establish rib on the next row as follows: Size S: * K 3, P 1, K 3, P 4, K 3, P 3, K 4, P 3, K 4, P 3, K 3, P 4, K 3, P 1 *, repeat from * - * one time more. Size M: * K 3, P 3, K 3, P 4, K 3, P 3, K 4, P 3, K 4, P 3, K 3, P 4, K 3, P 3 *, repeat from * - * one time more. Size L: * K 3, P 5, K 3, P 4, K 3, P 3, K 4, P 3, K 4, P 3, K 3, P 4, K 3, P 5 *, repeat from * - * one time more. Size XL: * K 3, P 3, K 3, P 3, K 3, P 4, K 3, P 3, K 4, P 3, K 4, P 3, K 3, P 4, K 3, P 3, K 3, P 3 *, repeat from * - * one time more. Size XL: * K 3, P 4, K 3, P 4, K 3, P 4, K 3, P 3, K 4, P 3, K 4, P 3, K 3, P 4, K 3, P 4, K 3, P 4 *, repeat from * - * one time more. Continue the rib as established until piece measures 8 cm. Change to larger circular needles and Pattern 1 as follows: * K 3 (place a marker in the center of these sts = side), P 1-3-5-9-11, Pattern 1 (= 37 sts which become 45 sts on row 1 because of incs), P 1-3-5-9-11 *, repeat from * - * one time more = 100-108-116-132-140 sts. When Pattern 1 has been knit once, continue with Pattern 2 over the center 45 sts in front and back (the remaining sts knit the same as before). When the piece measures 15 and 30 cm inc 1 st at each side of the 3 knit sts at each side = 108-116-124-140-148 sts on needles – P the increased sts. When the piece measures 42-43-44-45-46 cm bind off 5-5-7-7-7 sts at each side for armhole (= sts with marker + 2-2-3-3-3 sts each side of these). Front: = 49-53-55-63-67 sts. Continue to bind off for armhole at each side every other row: 2 sts 0-1-1-2-2 times and 1 st 1-1-1-3-4 times = 47-47-49-49-51 sts. When the piece measures approx. 51 cm – adjust to end after a complete repeat (in height) of Pattern 2 – knit Pattern 3 over the center 45 sts to finished measurements (the remaining sts knit the same as before). When the piece measures approx. 52-53-54-56-58 cm – adjust so that you have knit at least 2-4 rows after a cable at center front – bind off the center 3 sts for the neck. Then dec 1 st at each neck edge every row 11-11-12-12-12 times = 11-11-11-11-12 sts remain on each shoulder. Continue the pattern until piece measures 61-63-65-67-69 cm. Now dec 1 st over the 3 sts in stockinette st on each shoulder = 10-10-10-10-11 sts, then bind off all sts. The piece measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70 cm. Back: = 49-53-55-63-67 sts. Bind off for armhole as on front and continue as on front. When the piece measures approx. 51 cm – adjust to end after a complete repeat (in height) of Pattern 2 – knit Pattern 3 over the center 45 sts to finished measurements (the remaining sts knit the same as before). When the piece measures approx. 59-61-63-65-67 cm – adjust so that you have knit at least 2-4 rows after a cable at center back – dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the center 15 sts (this is so the neckband will not stretch out). On the next row bind off the center 17-17-19-19-19 sts for the neck. On the next row dec 1 st at each neck edge. At the same time when the piece measures 61-63-65-67-69 cm dec 1 st over the 3 sts in stockinette st on each shoulder = 10-10-10-10-11 sts, then bind off all sts, the piece measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70 cm. Right Sleeve: Cast on 28-28-28-30-30 sts on smaller double-pointed needles; join and K 1 row. Then knit rib as follows: Sizes S + M + L: K 3 (place a marker in the center of these sts), * P 4, K 3 *, repeat from * - * and finish with P 4. Size XL + XXL: K 3 (place a marker in the center of these sts), P 5, K 3, P 4, K 3, P 5, K 3, P 4. Continue the rib as established until piece measures 11 cm, then knit 1 row rib, increasing the K 3 with the marker to K 4 = 29-29-29-31-31 sts. Change to larger double-pointed needles and continue as follows: P 9-9-9-10-10, Pattern 4 (= 9 sts) and P 11-11-11-12-12. When the piece measures 12 cm inc 1 st at each side of the 4 knit sts with marker every 11-8-5-4.5-4 cm a total of 4-5-7-7-8 times = 37-39-43-45-47 sts – P the increased sts. When sleeve measures 47-46-46-43-43 cm bind off 5-5-7-7-7 sts at marker (2-2-3-3-3 sts each side of marker + st with marker in it) and knit the rest back and forth on needles. Bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1-3-3-4-4 times. Then bind off 2 sts at each side until piece measures 54-55-55-56-56 cm, then bind off 3 sts 1 time at each side. Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 55-56-56-57-57 cm. Left sleeve: Knit as right sleeve but reversed so that the placement of the cable pattern will be correct when sleeve is sewn into body. Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Collar: Pick up approx. 56-64 sts (divisible by 4) around the neck on smaller double-pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. P 1 row and K 1 row. Then knit rib – see instructions above. Be sure that you get a P 3 precisely at center front of neck so that the 3 purl sts on front continue up in the collar. At the same time on 1st row with rib knit 1 bobble in the center of each of the 3 purl sts around the neck (knit the bobbles in the same manner as in Pattern). When the piece measures 8 cm bind off the 3 P sts at center front and knit collar back and forth on needles, keeping 1 st in garter st at each side. When the collar measures 12-12-12-14-14 cm bind off all sts in rib. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (12)
Anita wrote:
Ach so, auch mit dem cm zum Schluss ist es komisch…bei 65 cm soll ich noch Maschen abketten und bei 64 cm beenden? Sie haben bestimmt eine Erklärung dafür 😊Dankeschön
28.07.2022 - 19:30DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Anita, hier gibt es ein Typo, in die 2. Größe nehmen Sie nach 63 cm ab (die 1. Größe fehlt hier), und 1 cm danach ketten Sie alle Maschen ab. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
01.08.2022 - 11:47Anita wrote:
Hallo ich verstehe beim Rückenteil die Rechnung nicht…wenn ich die mittleren 3 M. Abgenommen habe, befinden sich noch je 22 M. Rechts und 22 M. Auf der Nadel. Wenn ich dann rechts und links je 6 M. Für den Hals abnehme, habe ich noch 18 M. Alles was danach geschrieben steht, kommt nicht mehr hin. Können Sie mir bitte noch einmal weiterhelfen? Vielen Dank!!!
28.07.2022 - 18:15DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Anita, beim Hals soll man 6 Maschen über die 15 mittleren Maschen abnehmen, und dann bei der nächsten Reihe ketten Sie die mittleren 17-17-19-19-19 M. für den Hals ab. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
01.08.2022 - 11:45Anita wrote:
Hallo, ich habe es herausgefunden 😄👍🏻👋🏻
17.07.2022 - 17:41Anita wrote:
Hallo, ich habe es herausgefunden. 😄👍🏻👋🏻
17.07.2022 - 17:40Anita wrote:
Hallo, ich komme mit der ersten Reihe nach dem Bündchen nicht zurecht, denn wenn ich bei dem leeren Kästchen mit dem kleinen Punkt 2 Maschen zusammen stricke, dann habe ich zu wenig Maschen. Können Sie mir bitte helfen! Vielen Dank und herzliche Grüße Anita
17.07.2022 - 16:42DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Anita, Sie stricken bei Symbol "leeres Kästchen mit kleinem Punkt" nicht 2 Maschen zusammen, sondern stricken 2 Maschen aus 1 Masche heraus, d.h. Sie stechen 2x in dieselbe Masche ein und haben dann 1 Masche zugenommen. Dann passt es auch mit der Maschenzahl. Die Beschreibung des Symbols wurde nun etwas verdeutlicht. Gutes Gelingen weiterhin!
18.07.2022 - 09:49Stella wrote:
Est il possible d'avoir des tutos videos en entier pas à pas pour les débutants ? is it possible to have step by step videos of this sweater (and others patterns) for beginners ? thanks a lot
23.04.2020 - 11:59DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Stella, il n'est malheureusement pas possible d'avoir une vidéo pour chacun de nos modèles, toutefois, vous trouverez en bas de page des leçons et des vidéos expliquant les différentes techniques qui pourront vous aider. N'hésitez pas à poser votre question ici et si besoin, contactez votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone, pour toute assistance individualisée. Bon tricot!
23.04.2020 - 14:58Sophie wrote:
Bonjour et tout d\'abord merci pour votre site merveilleux.\r\nJ\'ai l\'habitude de tricoter sur des aiguilles droites et à la manière anglaise, j\'ai donc un peu de mal à comprendre toutes les explications de ce modèle. Pour les manches, combien faut-il d\'aiguilles double pointe,2 ou 5?\r\nMerci d\'avance pour votre réponse même si ma question est un peu bête.
13.10.2018 - 21:21DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Sophie, n'hésitez à vous aider de nos différentes vidéos qui montrent comment tricoter sur aiguille circulaire (c'est la même façon de faire avec le fil dans la main droite). Pour les manches, on va monter les mailles sur 4 aiguilles doubles-pointes et tricoter avec la 5ème ainsi. Bon tricot!
15.10.2018 - 09:15Joëlle LAGRANGE wrote:
Bonjour T. M emmanchures. On a 53 m devant. Il faut rab 0x2 donc 0 et 1x1 chaque côté = 2 m. 53 - 2 = 51. Comment trouvez vous 47 svp ? Merci
02.01.2018 - 12:46DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Lagrange, en taille M, on va diminuer 1 x 2 m et 1 x 1 m, la correction a été faite, merci. Bon tricot!
03.01.2018 - 13:47Charade wrote:
Bonjour dans le model DROPS 92-3 , la grille des explications commence la première ligne sur l'envers puisque après il y a les torsades. Merci de me confirmer
30.12.2014 - 13:25DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Charade, le dos et le devant se tricotent en rond jusqu'aux emmanchures, le 1er rang de M1 sera donc tricoté sur l'endroit (comme les autres rangs) - quand vous rabattez les mailles des emmanchures, vérifiez bien que les rangs des torsades seront bien des rangs sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!
30.12.2014 - 14:36DROPS Deutsch wrote:
Die Erklärung zum daigramm steht am Ende der Anleitung.
14.02.2010 - 19:58