DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.20 € /50g
DROPS Vienna
DROPS Vienna
91% Mohair, 9% Polyester
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 92-1
Size: S – M – L – XL - XXL

Materials: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
350 – 400-450-450-500 g colour no. 16, rose-beige
350 – 400-450-450-500 g colour no. 30 pastel-rose
and: DROPS Vienna from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300 g colour no. 43, light beige

DROPS pointed needles size 20 mm or size needed to obtain the correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.20 € /50g
DROPS Vienna
DROPS Vienna
91% Mohair, 9% Polyester
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

Knitting Gauge: 5 sts x 6 rows with 2 threads of Snow + 1 thread of Vienna on needle size 20 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

The garment is knitted from mid front and up to the sleeve, until the neck is finished, after which the back part is knitted. Then, put the stitches from the front and the back on the same needle and knit towards the sleeve.

Right front:
Cast on 31-33-34-36-37 sts on needles size 20 mm, using 1 thread of each colour Snow and 1 thread of Vienna (a total of 3 threads). Knit 6 rows of garter sts, (1st row = the right side).
Insert a marking thread and measure the piece from here. Now knit in stocking sts, except for the first and last 3 sts on each side which are knitted in garter sts.
When piece measures 7 cm measured from the marking thread, bind off 4-5-5-6-6 sts at the beginning of the row
(seen from the right side) for the collar and put the remaining 27-28-29-30-31 sts on a thread.

Right back:
Cast on 31-33-34-36-37 sts on needles size 20 mm, using 1 thread of each colour Snow and 1 thread of Vienna (a total of 3 threads). Knit 2 rows of garter sts, (1st row = the right side). Now knit in stocking sts, except for the first and last 3 sts on each side which are knitted in garter sts.
When the piece measures 7 cm measured from the “cast on” row, bind off 4-5-5-6-6 sts on the end of the row(seen from the right side) for the collar.

Right front and back:
Keep the 27-28-29-30-31 sts from the right back piece on the needle and put the 27-28-29-30-31 sts from the thread for the right front piece onto the same needle = 54-56-58-60-62 sts.
Continue in stocking sts. (1st row = wrong side) except for the first and last 3 sts on each side which are knitted in garter sts. (= lower edge at the front and back piece).
When piece measures 20-22-24-26-28 cm from the marking thread on the front piece, bind off as follows either side(now knit only stocking sts): 15-16-16-17-17 sts one time, on every other row 1 st 4-4-4-4-5 times, on every 4th row 1 st 2 times = 12-12-14-14-14 sts left on needle for the sleeve. Knit stocking sts until the piece measures 68-69-70-71-72 cm from the marking thread. Knit 4 rows garter sts. Bind off.

Left front: Knit as right front but reversed.
Left back: Knit as right back but reversed
Left front and back: Knit as right front and back

Assembly:
Sew right and left back pieces + collar together.
Sew seams inside of 1st edge sts. Sew the collar seam in each side in the outermost sts. so there will be only a small seam.
Sew the sleeves and the side seams together the same way.
The cardigan can be held together with either a pin, a kilt pin, a brooch or a belt.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Melina wrote:

Jeg har strikket høyre forstk og bakstk, nå står det i oppskriften: strikk venstre som høyre men motsatt. Hva er det som strikkes motsatt? Kan dere forklare det?

01.03.2024 - 14:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Melina, Istedenfor å felle på begynnelsen av pinnen fra retten (til krage), feller man på slutten av pinnen. God fornøyelse!

04.03.2024 - 11:16

country flag Emanuela Maurizi wrote:

Vorrei sapere gentilmente,come fare il collo,se bisogna riprendere le maglie o farlo staccato grazie

08.03.2023 - 14:32

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Emanuela, il collo si lavora sulle maglie messe in sospeso e poi viene affrancato al lavoro con dei piccoli puntI. Buon lavoro!

08.03.2023 - 16:45

country flag Photini wrote:

What does the back of this look like? I would love to see this properly front and back!

19.09.2020 - 04:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Photin, since this is a fairly old pattern, we are sorry, but we cannot provide you with other / different pictures. There is two project that used this pattern on Ravelry, and they have several pictures. I suggest you look those up. Happy Knitting!

20.09.2020 - 02:38

country flag Ineke Kaptein wrote:

L.S. Klopt het patroon van het vest 92-1 wel? Ik zit met een vraag over de kraag van het vest. Deze zou 12cm hoog moeten zijn. Maar er staat niets vermeld hoe de kraag te breien. Wel dat er afgekant moet worden voor de kraag. Nu de kraag nog! Vriendelijke groet, Ineke Kaptein.

31.03.2019 - 23:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ineke,

De voorpanden worden overdwars gebreid, waarbij je eerst een paar naalden in ribbelsteek breit en daarna verder gaat in tricosteek, maar de eerste 3 steken aan beide kanten worden dan in ribbelsteek gebreid, en dit is de kraag.

09.04.2019 - 21:20

country flag Sylvie Dubois wrote:

Dans le modèle devant droit il est dit d'arrêter à 7 cm du marqueur et dans le dos droit à 7 cm de hauteur totale, n''y a t\'il pas une erreur.D\'autre part vous dites à Céline ceci :" on tricote le devant et le dos à partir du milieu devant (bordure devant = les 6 rangs point mousse) pendant 31-37 cm,\" Je ne vois nulle part qu\'il faut tricoter pendant 31-37 cm puisqu\'il faut arrêter à 7 cm de hauteur ? Merci de votre réponse. Sylvie

21.01.2019 - 10:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dubois, la veste se tricote dans le sens de la longueur: on tricote d'abord la bordure devant et en jersey pendant 7 cm, puis on rabat les mailles du début du rang pour le col et on met en attente (= 27-31 m). On tricote ensuite le dos à partir du milieu pendant 7 cm (= 31-37 m (et non cm)) et on reprend toutes les mailles (54-62 m), on va ensuite rabattre les mailles des côtés jusqu'à ce qu'il reste celles de la manche. Bon tricot!

21.01.2019 - 12:40

country flag Sylvie Dubois wrote:

Dans le modèle devant droit il est dit d\'arrêter à 7 cm du marqueur et dans le dos droit à 7 cm de hauteur totale, n\'y a t\'il pas une erreur.\r\n\r\nD\'autre part vous dites à Céline ceci :\" on tricote le devant et le dos à partir du milieu devant (bordure devant = les 6 rangs point mousse) pendant 31-37 cm,\" Je ne vois nulle part qu\'il faut tricoter pendant 31-37 cm puisqu\'il faut arrêter à 7 cm de hauteur ? Merci de votre réponse. Sylvie

19.01.2019 - 13:03

country flag Celine wrote:

Désolée, si ma question est bête mais vous dites continuer sur 31/37cm et de rabattre, mais sur le modèle est noté 7cm.Ce qui me gêne aussi c'est de mettre les mailles en attente du devant droit à la suite des 27 mailles restantes du dos droit...

24.09.2018 - 14:23

Celine answered:

Ok, j'ai compris;)

24.09.2018 - 14:36

country flag Celine wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends vraiment pas les explications... Les mailles rabattues sur le devant et les dos sont les mailles du col? Et les mailles lisieres sont les coutures du col? Merci pour votre aide

23.09.2018 - 23:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Céline, on tricote le devant et le dos à partir du milieu devant (bordure devant = les 6 rangs point mousse) pendant 31-37 cm, puis on rabat les 4-5-6 m (cf taille) pour le col et on continue chaque pièce comme indiqué. À la fin, on assemble ces 4-5-6 m rabattues entre elles sur le côté, elles vont ainsi former le col. Bon tricot!

24.09.2018 - 10:03

Luisa wrote:

Buongiorno, è possibile avere la traduzione in italiano? Grazie

05.02.2018 - 13:38

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Luisa. Tradurremo il modello in italiano appena possibile. Buon lavoro!

05.02.2018 - 14:15

Luisa wrote:

Grazie mille della vostra disponibilità =)

13.12.2017 - 22:29