DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS 91-2
Jacket
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Measurements: See sketch

The measurements shown on the sketch may seem small, howe ver, the garment will be quite elastic due to the nature of the pattern stitch so we recommend kritting the garment size you would regularly choose.

Materials: Snow
800-850-950-1050-1150 g colour no. 32, dark purple 5 Drops buttons [No. 538].

Knitting needles: DROPS 12 mm or size needed to obtain correct gauge. 9 mm for sleeves. Circular 9 mm ndls for the bands.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge:
14 sts and 11 rows Pattern with 12 mm ndls = 10 x 10 cm
10 sts and 14 rows st st with 9 mm ndls = 10 x 10 cm

Rib: *K 4, p 3*, repeat *to*

Garter stitch worked back and forth: K both right side rows and wrong side rows.

Blackberry Pattern: See diagram M.1. 1 repeat = 4 sts. First row is a wrong side row. The diagram is shown from the right side of the garment.

Measuring tips: Due to the nature of the pattern, take all measurements when the garment is held up, rather than lying flat. Otherwise the jacket will be too tong.

Back: With Snow and 12 mm ndls cast on 70-74-78-86-90 sts [incl. 1 edge st at each side]. K 1 row [= right side row]. Then work pattern M.1 from the diagram inside 1 edge st at each side. When the back meas 20 cm [see measuring tips] bind off 4 sts [= 1 repeat] at the lett side. When the back meas 40 cm bind off 4 sts at the right side = 62-66-70-78-82 sts rem.
When the back meas 54-56-58-59-61 cm bind off for armholes 4-6-6-10-12 sts at each side = 54-54-58-58-58 sts rem.
The sts which do not fit into the patterns repeat now are worked P on right side rows and K on wrong side rows. When the back meas 71-74-77-79-82 cm bind off for neckline the middle 16 sts = 19-19-21-21-21 shoulder sts rem on each shoulder.
The sts which do not fit into the patterns repeat now are worked P on right side rows and K on wrong side rows Bind off when the back meas 73-76-79-81-84 cm.

Left front: With Snow and 12 mm ndls cast on 34-38-42-46-50 sts [incl. 1 edge st at each side]. K 1 row [= right side row]. Then work pattern M.1 inside 1 edge st at each side. When the front meas 40 cm [see measuring tips] bind off 4 sts [= 1 repeat] at the side [= beg of right side row] = 30-34-38-42-46 sts rem. When the front meas 54-56-58-59-61 cm bind off for armhole 4-6-6-10-12 sts at the side = 26-28-32-30-30 sts rem. T
The sts which do not fit into the patterns repeat now are worked P on right side rows and K on wrong side rows. When the front meas 58-61-63-65-68 cm shape neckline: Bind off the outer 1 st mid front on every row 7-9-11-11-13 times = 19-19-21-21-21 shoulder sts rem. T
The sts which do not fit into the patterns repeat now are worked P on right side rows and K on wrong side rows. Bind off when the front meas 73-76-79-81-84 cm.

Right front: Cast on and work as a mirror image of the lett front. Note! Pattern M.1 is now worked from lett to right in order for the pattern to look the same each side of mid front. Bind off the 4 sts at the side when the front meas 40 cm instead of 20 cm [= beg of wrong side row].

Sleeve: With Snow and 9 mm ndls cast on 30-30-30-37-37 sts [incl. 1 edge st at each side]. P 1 row [= wrong side row]. Then work ribbing with 1 edge st at each side. When the sleeve meas 2 cm dec all k 4 sections to k 3 = 26-26-26-32-32 sts rem. When the sleeve meas 14 cm, ending with a wrong side row, change to 12 mm ndls. K 3 rows garter st and on the first row inc 8-8-8-6-6 sts evenly spaced to 34-34-38-38-38 sts. Work pattern M.1 inside 1 edge st at each side. When the sleeve meas 25-19-19-18-18 cm cast on 4 new sts at the left side [= 1 pattern repeat]. When the sleeve meas 30-25-25-23-22 cm cast on 4 new sts at the right side. Repeat those inc as follows:
Size S: at the lett side when the meas is 36 and 48 cm and at the right side when the meas is 41 cm.
Size M: at the lett side when the meas is 30 and 41 cm and at the right side when the meas is 36 and 48 cm. Size L: at the left side when the meas is 30 and 41 cm and at the right side when the meas is 36 and 48 cm. Size XL: at the lett side when the meas is 29 and 40 cm and at the right side when the meas is 34 and 45 cm.
Size XXL: at the lett side when the meas is 27, 36 and 45 cm and at the right side when the meas is 31, and 40 cm.
The sleeve now has 54-58-58-62-66 sts. When the sleeve meas 53-53-52-50-49 cm, insert a thread marker at each side. Work further as established until the sleeve meas 56-57-56-57-58 cm. Bind off. Work the other sleeve the same.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.

Left front band & collar: With Snow and 9 mm ndls pick up and knit from the right side 80-83-86-89-91 evenly spaced from the middle of the back's neckline edge, along rem lett neck edge and down the length of left front to the cast-on edge. K 1 row [= wrong side] while at the same time inc 5-8-5-3-6 sts evenly spaced along the first 8 sts mid back = 85-91-91-91-97 sts. K 1 row [= right side]. Next row: K 1 edge st, *p 3, k 3*, repeat *to* and finish the row with p 3, k 2, k 1 edge st. Work k above k and p above p, but k 1 edge st at each side on all rows. When the band meas 6 cm bind off the front band's 52-55-55-55-61 sts, binding off evenly rib-wise. There are 33-36-36-36-36 sts rem for collar.
Add an extra strand Snow and work ribbing as established with double yarn, but work the outer 3 sts at each side [toward mid front]
in garter st the whole time. When the collar [from the picked-up row] meas 20-20-21-21-22 cm, bind off evenly loose rib-wise.

Right front band & collar: Pick up and work as a mirror image of the left side, but when the band meas 2 cm work 5 buttonholes evenly spaced. Place the lower buttonhole 20 cm from the lower edge, the upper buttonhole approx. 16-16-17-17-17 cm below the shoulder.

Buttonhole: K 2 tog, yarn over ndl. On the following row k info the back of the yarn over ndl [preventing the buttonhole from getting too loose].
Sew the collar tog mid back and place the seam on the right side of the garment [the collar will be folded down]. Sew side seams inside edge sts. Sew sleeve seams inside edge sts, but sew only to the marker threads. Sew sleeves on inside edge sts and match the thread markers to the side seams on back and front.
Sew buttons on.


SCARF:

Measurement: Approx. 17 x 80 cm
Materials: Snow
100 g colour no. 27, warm brown mix

Knitting needles: DROPS 12 mm or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 8 sts worked Seed stitch on 12 mm ndls = 10 cm

Seed stitch:
Row 1: `K 1, P 1*, repeat `to`.
Row 2 and all following rows: P above k, k above p.

With 2 ndls [12 mm] cast on 14 sts. The 2 ndls assure a loose cast-on. Pull out one of the ndls and work Seed stitch. Work until the scarf meas approx. 80 cm [or desired length]. Bind off loosely in Seed stitch.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS
symbols = P from RS
symbols = work 3 sts in this st as follows: K1, P1, K1
symbols = P3 tog, tighten thread
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Lynda wrote:

The pattern is confusing for the back, on decreasing at 20cm and 40cm and the explanation given does not make sense. Please explain what bind off 4 sts =1 repeat means and why does it say on the left side then on the right side Thank you

10.06.2015 - 17:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lynda, to avoid that dec on the sides are too visible, they will not be done at the same height, they will then look smoother when sewing sides tog to front pieces. Happy knitting!

10.06.2015 - 18:36

country flag Marie Barker wrote:

I can not sort the shaping for the back at 20 and 40cm because you don't do it both sides at the same time wont the shaping be uneven to do it at different sides at different measurments

19.08.2014 - 08:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Barker, dec are done on different places on the sides to get smoother dec and shaping on the sides. Happy knitting!

20.08.2014 - 12:05

country flag Marie Barker wrote:

How do you cast off evenly each side for the shaping when you get to 20cm and 40cm on the instructions for the back thank you

19.08.2014 - 08:55

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

The translations for the Diagrams for all Garnstudio patterns are included within the text of the Pattern itself. If you look immediately after the pattern text for the cardigan you will find lines starting with an = sign. These are the translations, and they are given in the same vertical order as the chart symbols within the diagram.

13.03.2008 - 18:49

country flag Anna wrote:

The diagram for Drops Design #91 - 2 is not in English. Do you have it in English. I would appreciate any help. Thank you

13.03.2008 - 18:46

country flag DROPS / Lena wrote:

The translations for the Diagrams for ALL Garnstudio patterns are included within the text of the Pattern itself. If you look in the pattern text, you will find lines starting with an = sign. These are the translations, and they are given in the same vertical order as the chart symbols within the diagram.

09.11.2007 - 21:40

country flag Chris Sullivan wrote:

The diagram is not in english, do you have it in english?

09.11.2007 - 21:10