DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 2-11
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 - 3 years)
(pants not in size 3 years)

Materials: DROPS Alpaca, from Garnstudio
The whole set:
200-3250-250 (300-300) g color no 506, dark gray
150-150-200 (200-250) g color no 3620, red
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 0100, off-white
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 2922, coral
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 2916, green
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 2923, yellow
Jacket only:
100-150-150 (200-250) g color no 506, dark gray
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 0100, off-white
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 2922, coral
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 2916, green
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 2923, yellow
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 3620, red

DROPS circular needle and double pointed needles size 2.5 and 3 mm / US 1.5 and 2.5

DROPS buttons, 5 pcs

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
JACKET:
Knitting gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 in stockinette sts = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Pattern: See diagram. The diagrams are showing all rows seen from the RS.

Front and back piece:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 120-132-144 (158-162) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with gray and work 3-3-3 (4-4) cm / 1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1 1/8'' (1½''-1½'') Rib.
Change to needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and continue in M.1 (with 1 edge st each side of all patterns), at the same time inc 3-3-3 (13-21) sts evenly on first round = 123-135-147 (171-183) sts.
After M.1 continue in M.2. At the same time when piece measures 16-18-21 (22-21) cm / 6 1/4"-7"-8 1/4" (8 3/4"-8 1/4") divide piece as follows: 31-34-37 (43-46) sts = front piece and 61-67-73 (85-91) st = back piece and complete front and back pieces separately.

Back piece:
= 61-67-73 (85-91) sts.
When piece measures 16-19-23 (25-28) cm/6 1/4"-7½"-8 1/4" (9 3/4"-11") (adjust to M.2, finish with row 8) work M.3, beg by arrow B.
When piece measures 26-29-33 (35-38) cm/ 10 1/4"-11½"-13" (13 3/4"-15") bind off the middle 21-23-27 (29-37) sts for neck and dec 2 sts on neckline on next row.
Bind off remaining sts after M.3, piece measures approx 28-31-35 (37-40) cm/ 11"-12 1/4"-13 3/4" (14½"-15 3/4").

Left front piece:
= 31-34-37 (43-46) sts.
When piece measures 16-19-23 (25-28) cm/6 1/4"-7½"-8 1/4" (9 3/4"-11") (adjust to M.2, finish with row 8) work M.3, beg by arrow C.
When piece measures 24-28-32 (34-37) cm/ 9½"-11"-12½" (13½"-14½") bind off to shape the neckline on every other row: 7-8-10 (11-15) sts 1 time, 2 sts twice, 1 st twice.
Bind off remaining sts after M.3, piece measures approx 28-31-35 (37-40) cm/ 11"-12 1/4"-13 3/4" (14½"-15 3/4").

Right front piece:
Like left front piece, but mirrored and beg M.3 by arrow A.

Sleeve:
Cast on 38-40-40 (42-42) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with gray and work 2-2-3 (3-4) cm/3/4"-3/4"-1" (1"-1½") Rib.
Change to needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and continue in M.1, at the same time inc 2-4-6 (10-16) sts evenly on first round = 40-44-48 (52-58) sts.
At the same time inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 9-9-10 (10-16) times as follows:
Size 3 months: on every 4th round
Size 6/9 months: on every 5th and 6th round alternately
Size 12/18 months + 2 years: on every 5th and 6th round alternately
Size 3 years: on every 3rd and 4th round alternately
= 58-62-68 (72-90) sts.
After M.1 continue in M.2.
When piece measures 13-17-19 (20-23) cm/ 5"-6 3/4"-7½" (8"-9") (adjust to M.2) continue in M.5, and then M.6.
Bind off, sleeve measures approx 16-20-22 (23-26) cm.

Assembly:
Sew shoulder seams. Pick up 70-90 sts along left front piece on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with gray and work 3 cm / 1'' Rib.
Repeat along right front piece but after 1 cm / ½'' make 5 buttonholes evenly distributed on row. 1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on return row.
Pick up 85-95 sts round the neck on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with gery and work 2 cm / 3/4'' Rib, bind off.
Set in sleeves and sew on buttons.
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PANTS:
Size 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 - 24 months

DROPS circular needle and double pointed needles size 2.5 and 3 mm / US 1.5 and 2.5

Knitting gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 in stockinette sts = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Hem: 3 cm / 1'' stockinette st, P 1 round (= folding edge, measure piece from here), 3 cm / 1'' stockinette st.

Right leg:
Cast on 52-56-62-68 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with red and work 6 cm / 2½'' Rib.
Change to needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and stockinette st, at the same time inc 20-22-22-22 sts evenly on first round = 72-78-84-90 sts.
When piece measures 19-21-24-28 cm/7½"-8 1/4"-9½"-11" divide piece at inside leg (= split) and complete piece back and forth on needle. Inc 1 st each side for seam.
When piece measures 21-23-26-30 cm/ 8 1/4"-9"-10 1/4"-11 3/4" bind off 3 sts each side, bind off in beg of next 2 rows = 68-74-80-86 sts.
Put piece aside and knit the other leg.

Left leg:
Like right leg.

Pants:
Put left and right leg in on the same circular needle and inc 1 st each side on both legs = 138-150-162-174 sts.
Now inc mid back on both sides of the middle 2 sts on every 4th round: 1 st 4 times,
at the same time dec mid front on every other round on both sides of the middle 2 sts: 1 st 5 times as follows: K2 tog into back of st, K2 middle sts, K2 tog = 136-148-160-172 sts.
When piece measures 38-42-47-52 cm/15"-16½"-18½"-20½" change to needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5, at the same time dec 2-8-10-12 sts evenly on round = 134-140-150-160 sts. Work Hem. Bind off, piece measures 41-45-50-55 cm/ 16"-17 3/4"-19 3/4"-21½".
Fold hem double towards WS and fasten. Insert an elastic.
Sew tog split on inside of legs.
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HAT:
Head circumference: 45-45-45 (50-50) cm / 17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 3/4" (19 3/4"-19 3/4")

DROPS double pointed needles size 2.5 and 3 mm / US 1.5 and 2.5

Knitting gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Cast on 102-108-108 (120-120) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with gray and work 2 cm / 3/4'' Rib.
Change to needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work M.7, M.4 and then complete piece in M.2.
When piece measures 14-16-19 (18-20) cm/ 5½"-6 1/4"-7½" (7"-8") continue as follows: *K 2 tog around, K1 round *, repeat *-* 4 times (i.e 8 rounds) = 7-7-7 (8-8) sts.
Cut thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.
Earflap x 2: cast on 9 sts on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with navy blue and work 2 cm / 3/4'' Rib. Now inc 1 st each side on every and every other row alternately until there are 23-25-25 (27-27) sts on needle.
Continue until piece measures 8-8-9 (9-9) cm/3"-3"-3½" (3½"-3½"), bind off.
Sew earflaps to hat from WS in the first stockinette st row with approx 8 cm / 3'' between earflaps at the back.
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SOCKS:
Foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15) cm / 4"-4½"-4 3/4" (5½"-6")

DROPS double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5

Knitting gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 in stockinette sts = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

The sock is worked in the round. Cast on 38-40-42 (42-44) sts on needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with gray and work Rib as follows: 1 round gray, 1 round off-white, 2 rounds gray, 1 round off-white, 2 rounds gray, 1 round off-white, and now complete piece in gray.
When Rib measures 10-11-11 (11-12) cm/4"-4½"-4½" (4½"-4 3/4") work heel as follows: work 3 cm / 1'' stockinette st back and forth on 18 sts mid back.
Then work heel decreases:
Row 1 (= RS): K12, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece,
Row 2: slip 1 st as if to P, P4, P2 tog, P1, turn the piece,
Row 3: slip 1 st as if to K, K5, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece,
Row 4: slip 1 st as if to P, P6, P2 tog, P1, turn the piece,
Row 5: slip 1 st as if to K, K7, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece,
Row 6: slip 1 st as if to P, P8, P2 tog, P1, turn the piece,
Row 7: K2 tog, K8, K2 tog into back of st
= 10 sts left on heel.
Pick up 7 sts on each side of heel = 44-46-48 (48-50) sts. Now dec 1 st on every round on both sides of the upper 16-18-18 (20-22) sts a total of 4-4-5 (5-5) times = 32-34-34 (36-38) sts.
When foot measures 7-8-9 (11-12) cm/ 2 3/4"-3"-3½" (4½"-4 3/4") knit 1 round and then change to off-white. Insert a marker each side. Continue in stockinette and now dec 1 st on each side of marker (4 dec per round) on every round a total of 8-8-9 (9-9) times.
Cut the thread and pull though remaining sts. Fasten off.

Diagram

symbols = off-white
symbols = grey
symbols = green
symbols = yellow
symbols = red
symbols = coral
symbols = C - 3 months
symbols = C - 6/9 months - 3 years
symbols = C - 12/18 months - 2 years
symbols = B - 12/18 months
symbols = B - 6/9 months - 3 years
symbols = B - 3 months - 2 years
symbols = A
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Portocala wrote:

Bonjour, Il n’y a que deux différences de tour de tête et de même pour le nombre de mailles pour le bonnet, du coup, 108 mailles pour 12/18 mois semble peu.

23.11.2020 - 14:50

country flag Fiona Murphy wrote:

What is meant by the jacket front and back pieces instructions in brackets (with 1 edge st each side of all patterns) ? It doesn't mean after every pattern repeat, does it? Or does it refer to the edges after it is divided up into 3 separate pieces at the armhole? Or is there another explanation?

24.10.2019 - 17:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Murphy, you should work 1 edge stitch on each side from after the rib to the end, ie when working M.1, then when working M.2 as follows: 1 edge st, repeat diagram until 1 st remains, 1 edge st. Happy knitting!

24.10.2019 - 17:21

country flag Bernadette Corriveau wrote:

Pour le bonnet on ne parle pas de la façon de procéder pour les cordons sous le menton.

16.10.2019 - 14:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Bernadette! Je vous propose cette technique ICI>. Bon tricot!

16.10.2019 - 18:18

country flag Gerda Boersma wrote:

Ik zie het telpatroon niet

08.11.2018 - 09:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Gerda,

Het telpatroon is nu toegevoegd. Veel breiplezier!

09.11.2018 - 19:26

country flag Marieke wrote:

Goedemorgen, ik zie het telpatroon niet staan. Het lijkt te zijn weggevallen? groeten, Marieke

16.05.2018 - 09:56

country flag Wendy M wrote:

After knitting about 6 cm of the sleeve it seemed like the cuff was very small for a 12-18 month old. I restarted casting on 42 stitches on 3mm needles then increasing 6 stitches to 48. Seems much better. You might want to reconsider the cuff size for the larger sizes.

27.01.2018 - 22:06

country flag Wendy M wrote:

I’m sorry....I meant I’m making the 12-18 month size...so is the increase 6 or 8 stitche? I think there’s a typo because is says increase 6 then in parentheses is says you will have 48 stitches

23.01.2018 - 13:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Wendy, thank you, this typo has been forwarded to our design team, I would increase 8 sts to get the 48 sts required. Happy knitting!

23.01.2018 - 13:41

country flag Wendy M wrote:

1: Is the sleeve knit in the round? You don't say anywear to join but you write for rounds not rows. 2: For the sleeve you state "Change to needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and continue in M.1, at the same time inc 2-4-6 (10-16) sts evenly on first round = 40-44-48" I'm making the 6-9 month size, do I increase 6 stitches and end up with 46? (It states 48) or do I increase 8 stitches...I'm not sure which is correct.

22.01.2018 - 21:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Wendy, sleeves are worked in the round. When switching with dpn size 3 mm, work 1st round in diagram while at the same time increase evenly 4 sts in size 6/9 months (2nd size) = 44 sts. Happy knitting!

23.01.2018 - 08:28

Frances Ordway wrote:

Pattern M1 is a 12 pattern repeat. Size 6-9 mo has 135 stitches. This is not divisible by 12. If you don't count the 2 edge stitches that makes 133. That is also not divisible by 12. I am a long time knitter but this one has me baffled. Can you help?

23.01.2017 - 17:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ordway, work the 135 sts as follows: 1 ege st, 11 x M1 (= 11x12=132 sts), work now the first st in M.1 and finish with 1 edge st. Happy knitting!

24.01.2017 - 09:15

country flag Ulla Carlsson wrote:

Mönstret visar att det ska vara mönster på en mössa men det finns inte med i mönstret

03.11.2009 - 20:32