DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.10 € /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.90€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Caribbean Afternoon

Children’s knitted jacket with crochet flower in "Safran", "Alpaca" and "Cotton Viscose"

DROPS 88-5
DROPS design: Pattern no E-005-bn
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Sizes:
5/6 years - 7/8 years - 9/10 years - 11/12 years -13/14 years
110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152 - 158/164 cm

Materials: DROPS Safran from Garnstudio (S)
100-100-100-150-150 g colour no 50, light ice blue
50- 50- 50- 50- 50 g colour no 03, mint
and use: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio (A)
100-100-100-100-100 g colour no 6205, light blue
50- 50- 50- 50- 50 g colour no 7120, light greyish green
50- 50- 50- 50- 50 g colour no 7300, lime
and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio (CV)
100-100-100-100-150 g colour no 21, lavender

DROPS Needle sizes 4 and 5 mm.
DROPS Crochet hook size 4.5 mm.
DROPS Mother of Pearl Buttons, no 521: 6 items.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.10 € /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.90€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: Remember needle size is only a guide. 17 stitches x 22 rows with needle size 5 mm and 2 strands and stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
Rib: * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*.

Buttonholes: Work buttonholes on right front piece. The buttonholes are worked as follows from the right side: 3-3-4-4-4 stitches garter stitch (= band), 1 yarn over, K2 together. On the next row, purl the yarn over twisted.
Work buttonholes when piece measures: 
Size 5/6 years: 2, 8, 15, 21, 28 and 34 cm
Size 7/8 years: 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 and 37 cm
Size 9/10 years: 2, 10, 17, 25, 32 and 40 cm
Size 11/12 years: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34 and 42 cm
Size 13/14 years: 2, 10, 19, 27, 35 and 43 cm

Stripes on body:
7-7.5-8.5-8-9 cm (incl. rib): 1 strand lavender CV + 1 strand light blue A.
7-7.5-8.5-8-9 cm: 1 strand lavender CV + 1 strand light ice blue S.
7-7.5-8.5-8-9 cm: 1 strand light blue A + 1 strand light ice blue S.
4-4.5-4.5-5.5-5 cm: 1 strand light greyish green A + 1 strand light ice blue S.
4-4.5-4.5-5.5-5 cm: 1 strand light greyish green A + 1 strand mint S.
7-7.5-8.5-8-9 cm: 1 strand lime A + 1 strand mint S.
Then work with 2 strands lime A to finished length (= approx. 4-4-4-6-5 cm).

Stripes on sleeves:
8-8.5-9-10-10.5 cm (incl. rib) with 1 strand lavender CV + 1 strand light blue A.
8-8.5-9-10-10.5 cm with 1 strand lavender CV + 1 strand light ice blue S.
8-8.5-9-10-10.5 cm with 1 strand light blue A + 1 strand light ice blue S.
4-4.5-5.5-5.5-6 cm with 1 strand light greyish green A + 1 strand light ice blue S.
4-4.5-5.5-5.5-6 cm with 1 strand light greyish green A + 1 strand mint S.
Then work with 1 strand lime A + 1 strand mint S to finished length (= approx. 7-8.5-9-10-10.5 cm).
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Back piece: The whole jacket is worked in i Stripes with 2 strands - see description above.
Loosely cast on 60-64-68-72-80 stitches (incl. 1 edge stitch in each side) with needle size 4 mm and 1 strand lavender CV and 1 strand light blue A. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib with1 edge stitch and 2 knitted stitches in each side. When piece measures 4 cm, change to needle size 5 mm and continue with stocking stitch - at the same time, on the first row after the rib, adjust the number of stitches to 60-64-70-74-80 stitches.
Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 10 cm, increase 1 stitch in each side. Repeat the increase when piece measures 20 cm = 64-68-74-78-84 stitches. When piece measures 26-28-31-32-33 cm decrease for armhole in each side every 2nd row: 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 1-1-2-2-2 times and 1 stitch 1-2-2-3-5 times = 52-54-56-58-60 stitches. When piece measures 38-41-45-47-49 cm, cast off the middle 16-16-18-18-20 stitches for neck. Then decrease 1 stitch on next row towards neck = 17-18-18-19-19 stitches left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 40-43-47-49-51 cm.

Right front piece: Cast on 32-32-37-41-41 stitches (incl. 1 edge stitch in the side and 3-3-4-4-4 band stitches towards mid front) with needle size 4 mm and 1 strand lavender CV and 1 strand light blue A. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work the next row as follows from the right side: 3-3-4-4-4 band stitches in garter stitch, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge stitch. Continue in this way - remember buttonholes on band - see description above. When piece measures 4 cm change to needle size 5 mm and continue with stocking stitch - NOTE: the band is worked in garter stitch to finished length - at the same time, on row 1 after the rib adjust the number of stitches to 33-35-39-41-44 stitches. When piece measures 10 cm, increase 1 stitch in the side. Repeat the increase when piece measures 20 cm = 35-37-41-43-46 stitches. When piece measures 26-28-31-32-33 cm, decrease for armhole in the side as for back piece = 29-30-32-33-34 stitches on needle. When piece measures 35-38-41-43-44 cm, place the outermost 9-9-11-11-12 stitches towards mid front on 1 thread for neck. Then decrease towards neck every 2nd row: 1 stitch 3 times = 17-18-18-19-19 stitches left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 40-43-47-49-51 cm.

Left front piece: Cast on and work as for right, but in reverse. NOTE: Do not work buttonholes on left front piece.

Sleeve: The sleeves are worked in Stripes with 2 strands - see description above.
Cast on 30-30-30-34-34 stitches (incl. 1 edge stitch in each side) with needle size 4 mm and 1 strand lavender CV and 1 strand light blue A. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib with 1 edge stitch in each side. When piece measures 4 cm, change to needle size 5 mm and continue with stocking stitch at the same time as the number of stitches is adjusted to 28-30-30-32-34 stitches. When piece measures 7 cm, increase 1 stitch in each side every 3.5-3.5-3-3-3 cm a total of 8-9-11-12-13 times = 44-48-52-56-60 stitches. When sleeve measures 34-37-41-44-46 cm, decrease for sleeve cap in each side every 2nd row: 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 1-1-2-2-2 times and 1 stitch 0-2-1-2-3 times, then 2 stitches in each side until piece measures 38-42-46-50-53 cm, finally 3 stitches 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining stitches, piece measures approx. 39-43-47-51-54 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.
Neck: Knit up approx. 55 to 71 stitches around the neck (incl. stitches from the threads) with needle size 4 mm and 2 strands lime A. Purl 1 row from the wrong side and knit 1 row from the right side, then loosely cast off. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams in one go inside the 1 edge stitch. Sew on buttons.


Crochet flower: Spiral flower with 2 leaves and 1 spiral.
Spiral: Work 16 loose chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm and 1 strand light blue Alpaca and 1 strand lavender Viscose. Turn piece and work back.
Work 3 double crochets in each of chain stitches 2 and 3.
Work 3 half treble crochets in each of chain stitches 4-6.
Work 3 treble crochets in each of chain stitches 7-13.
Work 3 double treble crochets in each of chain stitches 14+15.
Work 5 double treble crochets in chain stitch 16.
Cut and fasten strand.

Spiral Rose: Work 16 loose chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm and 1 strand light blue Alpaca and 1 strand lavender Viscose. Turn piece and work back.
Work 3 double crochets in each of chain stitches 2-4.
Work 3 half treble crochets in each of chain stitches 5-7.
Work 3 treble crochets in each of chain stitches 8-10.
Work 3 double treble crochets in each of chain stitches11-15.
Work 5 double treble crochets in chain stitch 16.
Cut strand. Twist the spiral into a rose and fasten with a stitch. Fasten strands. Fasten the other spiral to the back of the rose.

Leaf: Work 12 loose chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm and 1 strand lime Alpaca and 1 strand light ice blue Safran. Turn piece and work back.
Work 1 double crochet in each of chain stitches 2-4. 1 chain stitch.
Work 1 half treble crochet in chain stitch 5. 1 chain stitch.
Work 1 treble crochet in each of chain stitches 6-8. 1 chain stitch.
Work 1 half treble crochet in chain stitch 9. 1 chain stitch.
Work 1 double crochet in each of chain stitches 10-12.
Cut and fasten strands. Work 1 more leaf with 2 strands lime Alpaca.

Sew the leaves to the back of the rose.
Sew the flower to the right front piece.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Katharina H wrote:

Der Farbverlauf gefällt meiner Tochter sehr gut. Leider sind viele der Garne nicht mehr erhältlich. Könnten Sie bitte Alternativen vorschlagen? Ohne die einzelnen originalen Farben zu sehen, ist das am Monitor sehr schwierig, ähnliches zusammen zu stellen. Vielen Dank!!!

20.09.2022 - 19:08

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Katharina, gerne wird Ihnen Ihr DROPS Händler damit helfen, die besten passenden Farben zu wählen (auch per Telefon oder per E-Mail). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.09.2022 - 09:09

country flag Jorand wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai regardé les différentes qualités de fils utilises pour ce modèle ( safran, alpaca et coton viscose ) mais je n'y retrouve pas les noms des couleurs utilisés et il est difficile de les interpréter pour avoir le même rendu de dégradé. Pourriez vous s'il vous plaît me donner l'équivalence de couleurs avec les noms actualisés. Merci Cordialement

22.01.2020 - 18:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Jorand, les nuanciers ont effectivement été modifiés depuis la publication de ce modèle, contactez votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone, il saura vous conseiller les couleurs idéales correspondant à vos envies. Bon tricot!

23.01.2020 - 09:26

country flag Cipriana wrote:

Je voudrais savoir si le nombre de points á monter est le même pour le dos que pour les deux moitiès du devant?.faut-til garder des points pour la frange du boutonnage? Merçi beaucoup par votre réponse

07.07.2019 - 20:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Cipriana, pour le dos, on monte 60-64-68-72-80 m et on tricote avec 1 m lis au point mousse de chaque côté. Pour chaque devant, on monte 32-32-37-41-41 m et on tricote avec 3-3-4-4-4 m de bordure devant et 1 m lis au point mousse. Bon tricot!

08.07.2019 - 11:10

country flag Jasmin Braun wrote:

Das stricken mit 2 Fäden...finde dazu keine Erklärung. Heißt dass das man immer mit beiden Fäden alle Maschen strickt....also aus 2 Faden (pro Knäul 1 Faden) 1 Faden macht; somit auch den Anschlag mit 2 Fäden?

26.04.2019 - 20:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Braun, ja genau, es wird je mit 1 Faden Cotton Viscose (= CV) + 1 Fadel Alpaca (= A) - siehe Streifen am Körper/an den Ärmeln = mit 2 Fäden gestrickt. Die Umschläge bein den Knopflöchern werden auch mit 2 Fäden gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.04.2019 - 08:06

Mouna wrote:

Bonjour,est ce que vous pouvez m'expliquer:"rabat 0-2-1-2-3 fois 1 m puis 2 m de chaque côté jusqu’à 38m", est ce que je ne rabats pas les mailles à ce niveau?Sachant que je réalise la première taille.

03.02.2013 - 15:13

DROPS Design answered:

Pour la 1ère taille, vous rabattez de chaque côté tous les 2 rangs : 1 fois 3 m, 1 fois 2 m puis 2 m (de chaque côté tous les 2 rangs) jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 38 cm, puis 1 fois 3 m (de chaque côté tous les 2 rangs) et enfin toutes les mailles restantes. Bon tricot !

04.02.2013 - 09:58

Mouna wrote:

Bonjour,est ce que vous pouvez m'expliquer:rabat 0-2-1-2-3 fois 1 m puis 2 m de chaque côté jusqu’à 38m est ce que je ne rabats pas les mailles à ce niveau sachant que je réalise la première taille.aider moi s'il vous plait..Bien cordialement

03.02.2013 - 14:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mouna, pour l'arrondi de la manche vous rabattez 0-2-1-2-3 fois (cf taille) 1 m de chaque côté tous les 2 rangs puis 2 m de chaque côté tous les 2 rangs jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 38 cm de hauteur totale, puis vous rabattez 1 fois 3 m de chaque côté, et vous rabattez ensuite toutes les mailles. Bon tricot !

04.02.2013 - 09:55

country flag Marie Danneels wrote:

Hoe kan je op 40 cm hoogte nog een laatste knoopsgat moeten maken (7-8j) als je reeds op 38 cm 9 steken moet afkanten voor de hals ? Het knoopsgat zit evenmin in de halsbies. Ik begrijp dit niet goed ? Groetjes.

29.06.2012 - 11:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi. Het was fout met het afkanten van de knoopsgaten. Wij hebben het nu aangepast.

26.07.2012 - 21:21