DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
 100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
needles
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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.10£.

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DROPS 32-19

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DROPS Sweater or jacket for men in Karisma Superwash with or without ribbon. Long or short model. Socks, Hat, Head band, Mittens

DROPS 32-19
Size: Lady: Small - Medium - Large
Gent: Small/medium - Medium/large

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio

Jacket:
Alt.1/Alt 2
550-600-600 (650-650) g colour no 53, grey/ 1, off white
300-300-300 (350-350) g colour no 1 off white/ 16, grey
170 cm DROPS ribbon

Sweater:
Alt.1/ Alt.2
200-200-250 (250-250) g colour no 53, grey/ 1, off white
550-600-600 (650-650) g colour no 1, off white/ 16, grey

90 cm ribbon

DROPS circular needles size 2.5 mm and 4 mm.
DROPS claps: 3 pcs.
DROPS buttons: 6 pcs

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpers Jackets & Cardigans Women's Socks & Slippers Accessories Men's Jackets & Cardigans Men's Socks & Slippers Nordic Jackets Long Jackets Nordic Jumpersbottom up colourwork double neck nordic round neck sewn in sleeves
DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
 100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.10£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Comments (9)

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Pattern contain two items.

Knitting tension: 21 sts x 26 rows on needle size 4 mm and pattern = 10 x 10 cm
23 sts on needle size 2.5 mm and stocking sts = 10 cm in width.

Long model: If you are knitting long model inc measurements on body from casting on edge with 10 cm at armhole, M.3, neck and casting off. Inc yarn amount by approx 50 g grey and 50 g off white.

Pattern: Knit entire pattern in stocking sts. Diagrams are seen from RS.

Rib: * K1, P1 *

Edge: Knit 3.5 cm stocking sts, P1 round, 3.5 cm stocking sts.
___________________________________________________________________

Jacket body:
Knit jacket in the round on circular needles after ridges and cut up for armholes and mid front when knitting is completed. Figures in ( ) = Gent size. Cast on 194-202-210 (210-218) sts for Alt.1-grey or Alt.2 – off white on needle size 2.5 mm and knit 5 cm Rib back and forth on needle. Change to circular needle size 4 mm at the same time inc 5 sts mid front (these sts are for cutting afterwards and should not be knit into the pattern) knit 1 round stocking sts at the same time as inc 40-50-60 (42-52) sts evenly on 1st row = 234-252-270 (252-270) sts. Knit M.1, then continue with M.2. Remember knitting tension. At the same time when piece measures 32-33-34 (35-37) cm inc 5 sts on each side (these sts are for cutting later and are not knit into pattern). When piece measures 35-36-37 (38-40) cm knit M.3. When piece measures 56-57-58 (59-61) cm cast off 35-36-37 (36-37) sts (+5 sts) mid front for neck, complete piece knitting back and forth on row. Continuing cast off to shape neckline on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 2 times. At the same time when piece measures 60-61-62 (63-65) cm cast off middle 45-46-47 (46-47) sts mid back for neck and on next row cast off 2 sts on each side to shape neckline. After M.3 complete with colour from last round. Cast off when piece measures 62-63-64 (65-67) cm


Sweater body:
Knit sweater on circular needles and cut up for armhole afterwards. Figures in ( ) = Gent size. Cast on 180-188-196 (196-204) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Alt. 1 - grey or Alt.2 off white and knit 5 cm rib. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and knit 1 round stocking sts at the same time inc 54-64-74 (56-66) sts evenly on 1st row = 234-252-270 (252-270) sts. Knit M.1 continue with M.2. Remember knitting tension. At the same time when piece measures 32-33-34 (35-37) cm inc 5 sts on each side (these sts are for cutting later and are not knit into pattern).
When piece measures 35-36-37 (38-40) cm knit M.3.
At the same time when piece measures 44-45-45 (47-49) cm cast off middle 13-14-15 (14-15) sts for neck and complete back and forth.
When piece measures 57-58-59 (60-62) cm cast off to shape neckline on every other row 11-12-12 (12- 12) sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 sts 1 time. At the same time when piece measures 60-61-62 (63-65) cm cast off middle 45-46-47 (46-47) sts mid back for neck and on next row cast off 2 sts on each side. After M.3 complete with colour from last round. Cast off when piece measures 62-63-64 (65-67) cm

Sweater and Jacket Sleeve: Cast on 48-48-50 (50-52) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with same colour as body and knit 5 cm Rib (if ribbons are to be sewn on later knit Edge in stead of Rib so ribbon is sewn on Edge). Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit M.1. (place one pattern repeat mid sleeve) at the same time inc 12-14-12 (12-10) sts evenly on 1st row = 60-62-62 (62-62) sts. At the same time inc mid under arm on each side of middle sts 1 sts 32-32-32 (32-32) sts on Lady: every 3rd row. Gent: alternating every * 3rd and 4th row * = 124-126-126 (126-126). After M.1 continuing knit M.2. When piece measures 39-38-37 (43-43) cm – adjust to pattern, knit M.3 until piece measures 50-49-48 (54-54) cm, now knit 2 cm stocking sts with WS out for edge over cutting edge on body. Cast off.

Sweater + Jacket Assembly:
Sew in a marking thread down in middle of inc sts on each side (+ mid front on jacket). Sew two seams on sewing machine around marking threads, 1st seam = 1/2 sts from 1st st from thread, 2nd seam = 1/2 sts from 1st seam at armhole. Cut up for armhole (+ mid front at jacket). Sew shoulder seams. Jacket: Pick up approx 120 sts along left front band on needle size 2.5 mm and knit Edge (knit al edges in same colour as Rib), cast off, fold edge towards WS and sew. Repeat along right but after 1 cm cast off 6 buttonhole evenly on row - 1 buttonhole = cast off 2 sts, cast on 2 new sts on next row.

Neckline Jacket:
Pick up approx 114 sts around neckline on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and knit Edge, cast off and fold edge towards WS and sew. Sew on Ribbons on front bands and along neck if desired.

Sweater with split neck:
Pick up approx 32 sts along left side of split on front piece on needle size 2.5 mm and knit Edge (knit all Edges in same colour as Rib), cast off. Repeat along right side. Fold edges towards WS and sew on. Pick up approx 114 sts around neckline on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and knit Edge, cast off and fold edge towards WS and sew. Sew on Ribbon around neck and split and at bottom of sleeve if desired. Sew sleeves onto body from RS as follows: Sew alternating 1 sts in last garter st round of sleeve before folding edge and 1 sts on body after machine seam. Turn WS out on sweater and sew folding edge from sleeves over cutting edge onto body by hand. Sew 6 buttons onto Jacket or 3 claps on split neck.
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Hat:

Materials:
Alt.1/ Alt.2
350-350-350 (350-350) g colour no 53, grey/ 1, off white
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 1, off white/ 16, grey

DROPS circular needles size 2.5 mm and 4 mm and double pointed needles size 4 mm.

Hat: Cast on 150 (158) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with grey (knit hat in colours of Alt.1) and knit 6 cm rib, change to circular needle size 4 mm and knit M.5 at the same time dec to 102 (108) sts evenly on 1st round. After M.5 complete with grey at the same time insert a stitch marker after every 6th sts. Now knit two sts after stitch marker tog. Repeat this on every 6th row until 17 sts are left. Change to double pointed needles 4 mm when needed.
Pull a double thread through these sts and sew.

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Sock:

Size: Length: 58 (65) cm. - Foot: 23 (26) cm.

Materials: Double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and 3 mm

Knitting tension: 22 sts x 32 rows on needle size 3 mm and stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm Rib: * K1, P1 *

Decrease: * slip next sts loosely off, K1 (WS = P1) psso *

Heel:
1st row: (RS) Knit until 6 (7) sts re-appear on needle. Turn piece.
2nd row: (WS) Knit until 6 (7) sts re-appear on needle. Turn piece.
3rd row: Knit until 8 sts return to row, knit ankle (see explanation!). Turn piece.
4th row: Knit until 8 sts re-appear to row, knit ankle, turn piece.
Then continue knitting so 1 st less on each side before ankle. Continue until 12 (14) sts re-appear.

SOCK
Cast on 72 (80) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with grey (knit sock on colour of Alt.1) and knit 14 (16) cm rib.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit 2 rounds stocking sts at the same time inc 0 (4) sts evenly on 1st row = 72 (84) sts. Knit M.1. Then continuing knit M.2. When piece measures 30 (32) cm begin dec for leg. Dec each side of middle sts back: Knit 2 sts before middle sts tog, (see explanation of dec above) and K2 sts tog after middle sts – repeat on every 5th row (4th row) 12 (16) times in total = 48 (52) sts.
When piece measures 50 (56) cm slip middle 24 (26) sts to front on a stitch holder and complete with grey. Then knit 5 (6) cm stocking sts (heel) over the 24 (26) middle sts back, and then knit heel (see explanation above). Then pick up 12 (13) sts on each side of heel and slip all sts on same needle = 60 (66) sts.
Dec continuing as follows: K2 first of uppermost 24 (26) sts tog and K2 last sts of uppermost 24 (26) sts tog on every other row 6 times in total = 48 (54) sts.
Knit until foot measures approx 19 (21.5) cm.
Insert a stitch marker on each side of foot and dec for toe on each side of marker as follows: K2 sts before marker tog and K2 sts after tog, repeat 3 times on every other row = 36 (42) sts. Then 7 (9) times on every row = 8 (6) sts. Pull sts tog and sow away thread well.
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Head band
Materials:
Alt.1/ Alt.2
150-150-150 (150-150) g colour no 53, grey/ 1, off white
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 1, off white/ 16, grey

Head band:
Cast on 120 (126) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with same colour as rib on sweater and knit 16 rounds stocking sts, P1 round, M.4, P1 round, 2 rounds stocking sts, cast off. Sew edges and cast off edge tog with mattress sts in outermost sts to avoid a thick seam. Mitten:

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Mittens:

Materials: DROPS Double poined needles size 3 mm.

Knitting tension: 22 sts x 32 rows on needle size 3 mm and stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm Rib: * K1, P1 *

Hand:
Figures in ( ) = Gent size. Cast on 48 (56) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with grey (knit mittens in Alt.1) and knit 2 cm stocking sts, P1 round, M.5. Then knit 3 cm Rib – cast off 4 (4) sts evenly on row = 44 (52) sts. Measures piece from here! Next row as follows: M.7, 17 (21) of M.8, M.7, 17 (21) sts of M.8. (insert a marking thread or stitch marker in transition from M.8 to M.7 for thumb). When piece measures 1 cm inc on each side of 1 sts with marking thread or stitch marker for thumb as follows: 1 sts 6 (6) times on every 3rd row = 56 (64) sts – knit inc sts into M.8 after each. When piece measures 6.5 (7) cm slip middle 13 (13) sts over thumb on a thread or stitch holder and on next row cast on 1 sts over these = 44 (52) sts. Continue until piece measures 17 (18) cm. Insert one marking thread or stitch marker in middle of each M.7. Now cast off on each side of marking thread on every row 1 sts (minus 4 sts per round)- repeat 10 (11) times. Pull thread through last sts and sew on.

Thumb: Pick up 16 (20) sts around thumb and knit 6.5 cm M.8, then knit sts tog two by two, pull double thread through sts.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 15.02.2024
Pattern has been reviewed and updated. Tension with smaller needles has been fixed.

Diagram

symbols = off white (alt1), grey (alt 2)
symbols = grey (alt1), off white (alt2)
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Judith Gowdy wrote:

In regard to the jacket assembly, I understand the left front Edge gets folded towards the WS and sewn (which will cover the raw edge). Instructions say to repeat on right but to make buttonholes after 3/8". If you repeat the same Edge as on the left and fold edge towards towards wrong side the buttonholes will be covered up but if you simply bind off after 1 3/8' how does the raw edge get covered? Thanks for answering all my questions....this. is a first time for me knitting a Drops design.

10.04.2024 - 20:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Gowdy, buttonholes should be worked on both sides of edge, ie also on the 2nd section after the row worked in reversed stocking stitch so that they are facing when edge is folded double. Happy knitting!

11.04.2024 - 07:11

country flag Judith Gowdy wrote:

I am just about to start the steeking for the armholes and front of jacket. There are instructions on how to finish the front but nothing on attaching sleeves to armholes. Help, thanks.

04.04.2024 - 22:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Judit, you should sew in the sleeves beside the the point where you started knitting the last 2 cm-s with reverse stockinett, then fold that stockinett over the cut edge on the body, and sew down, this that edge will cover the cut up edge. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

05.04.2024 - 02:04

country flag Judy Gowdy wrote:

On the jacket body I have reached the point where you start binding off for the neck. Instructions say to complete piece by knitting back and forth on the row. Does this mean that I will be no longer knitting in the round but knitting and then purling back in the pattern until the the final bind off for neck back? Thx for clearing this up for me.

07.03.2024 - 14:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Gowdy, correct you will now first work back and forth from mid front (knitting from RS and purling from WS) casting off stitches at the beg of every row on each side for neckline; at the same time, you will cast off the middle stitches on back piece and finish each shoulder separately, back and forth on needle casting off 2 sts at the beg of next row from neck /back piece. Happy knitting!

07.03.2024 - 15:41

country flag Judith Gowdy wrote:

Am getting started on Drops jacket 32-19 It calls for US 6 needles for the pattern and US 1.5 for the ribbing. I have 2 questions: I can get gauge for the larger size needle but way off on the smaller needle. I don't understand why you would use such a small (1.5 )needle with this yarn. I look forward to your reply. Thx

15.02.2024 - 15:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Gowdy, tension was wrong and has now been fixed, you should have 23 sts with smaller needles. Read more about tension here. Happy knitting!

15.02.2024 - 15:40

country flag Judy Gowdy wrote:

Want to knit DROPS 32-19 jacket but decided to practice with the mittens. I cast on 56 sts, knit 3/4" in stockinette sts, P1 round, but do not understand, M5. followed by 1" of rib. When I look at the pictures of the mittens at the cuff, one shows the rib with no proceeding pattern and the other shows no rib at all, just pattern. Thx for helping me to understand.

31.01.2024 - 17:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Gowdy, for these mittens you will have a folded edge at the bottom/on cuff, after the folding round (purled round) you work the pattern M.5 all the round, then ca 1" rib, then work the different patterns/diagrams for the hand; Happy knitting!

01.02.2024 - 08:12

country flag Annbjørg Mabel Sjøthun wrote:

Hvor mange masker er det på forpartene og hvor mange masker er det i ryggen? På denne modellen 32-19

13.12.2023 - 16:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, hvilken størrelse strikker du?

14.12.2023 - 08:17

country flag Helene FAYARD wrote:

Avec quelle laine, plus fine (mon gendre a toujours chaud) pourrais-je confectionner ce gilet norvégien si magnifique ? merci

03.10.2023 - 21:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Fayard, si vous choisissez une laine plus fine, votre échantillon sera aussi différent et vous devrez tout recalculer les explications - vous pouvez choisir une autre alternative du groupe B - essayez notre convertisseur pour voir la liste et les nouvelles quantités; votre magasin saura vous conseiller la qualité la plus adaptée (même par mail ou téléphone). Bon tricot!

04.10.2023 - 08:02

country flag Kathie wrote:

What are the main differences between the "jacket" and the "sweater?" Thanks!!

03.05.2023 - 23:05

country flag Tina Brønnum wrote:

Hvordan eller hvor får jeg fat i DROPS bånd??

29.03.2018 - 12:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tina, Vi fører desværre ikke bånd mere, men du kan helt sikkert finde dem på nettet. God fornøjelse!

04.04.2018 - 12:12

DROPS 32-19



DROPS Sweater or jacket for men in Karisma Superwash with or without ribbon. Long or short model. Socks, Hat, Head band, Mittens

DROPS 32-19
Size: Lady: Small - Medium - Large
Gent: Small/medium - Medium/large

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio

Jacket:
Alt.1/Alt 2
550-600-600 (650-650) g colour no 53, grey/ 1, off white
300-300-300 (350-350) g colour no 1 off white/ 16, grey
170 cm DROPS ribbon

Sweater:
Alt.1/ Alt.2
200-200-250 (250-250) g colour no 53, grey/ 1, off white
550-600-600 (650-650) g colour no 1, off white/ 16, grey

90 cm ribbon

DROPS circular needles size 2.5 mm and 4 mm.
DROPS claps: 3 pcs.
DROPS buttons: 6 pcs

Pattern contain two items.

Knitting tension: 21 sts x 26 rows on needle size 4 mm and pattern = 10 x 10 cm
23 sts on needle size 2.5 mm and stocking sts = 10 cm in width.

Long model: If you are knitting long model inc measurements on body from casting on edge with 10 cm at armhole, M.3, neck and casting off. Inc yarn amount by approx 50 g grey and 50 g off white.

Pattern: Knit entire pattern in stocking sts. Diagrams are seen from RS.

Rib: * K1, P1 *

Edge: Knit 3.5 cm stocking sts, P1 round, 3.5 cm stocking sts.
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Jacket body:
Knit jacket in the round on circular needles after ridges and cut up for armholes and mid front when knitting is completed. Figures in ( ) = Gent size. Cast on 194-202-210 (210-218) sts for Alt.1-grey or Alt.2 – off white on needle size 2.5 mm and knit 5 cm Rib back and forth on needle. Change to circular needle size 4 mm at the same time inc 5 sts mid front (these sts are for cutting afterwards and should not be knit into the pattern) knit 1 round stocking sts at the same time as inc 40-50-60 (42-52) sts evenly on 1st row = 234-252-270 (252-270) sts. Knit M.1, then continue with M.2. Remember knitting tension. At the same time when piece measures 32-33-34 (35-37) cm inc 5 sts on each side (these sts are for cutting later and are not knit into pattern). When piece measures 35-36-37 (38-40) cm knit M.3. When piece measures 56-57-58 (59-61) cm cast off 35-36-37 (36-37) sts (+5 sts) mid front for neck, complete piece knitting back and forth on row. Continuing cast off to shape neckline on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 2 times. At the same time when piece measures 60-61-62 (63-65) cm cast off middle 45-46-47 (46-47) sts mid back for neck and on next row cast off 2 sts on each side to shape neckline. After M.3 complete with colour from last round. Cast off when piece measures 62-63-64 (65-67) cm


Sweater body:
Knit sweater on circular needles and cut up for armhole afterwards. Figures in ( ) = Gent size. Cast on 180-188-196 (196-204) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Alt. 1 - grey or Alt.2 off white and knit 5 cm rib. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and knit 1 round stocking sts at the same time inc 54-64-74 (56-66) sts evenly on 1st row = 234-252-270 (252-270) sts. Knit M.1 continue with M.2. Remember knitting tension. At the same time when piece measures 32-33-34 (35-37) cm inc 5 sts on each side (these sts are for cutting later and are not knit into pattern).
When piece measures 35-36-37 (38-40) cm knit M.3.
At the same time when piece measures 44-45-45 (47-49) cm cast off middle 13-14-15 (14-15) sts for neck and complete back and forth.
When piece measures 57-58-59 (60-62) cm cast off to shape neckline on every other row 11-12-12 (12- 12) sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 sts 1 time. At the same time when piece measures 60-61-62 (63-65) cm cast off middle 45-46-47 (46-47) sts mid back for neck and on next row cast off 2 sts on each side. After M.3 complete with colour from last round. Cast off when piece measures 62-63-64 (65-67) cm

Sweater and Jacket Sleeve: Cast on 48-48-50 (50-52) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with same colour as body and knit 5 cm Rib (if ribbons are to be sewn on later knit Edge in stead of Rib so ribbon is sewn on Edge). Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit M.1. (place one pattern repeat mid sleeve) at the same time inc 12-14-12 (12-10) sts evenly on 1st row = 60-62-62 (62-62) sts. At the same time inc mid under arm on each side of middle sts 1 sts 32-32-32 (32-32) sts on Lady: every 3rd row. Gent: alternating every * 3rd and 4th row * = 124-126-126 (126-126). After M.1 continuing knit M.2. When piece measures 39-38-37 (43-43) cm – adjust to pattern, knit M.3 until piece measures 50-49-48 (54-54) cm, now knit 2 cm stocking sts with WS out for edge over cutting edge on body. Cast off.

Sweater + Jacket Assembly:
Sew in a marking thread down in middle of inc sts on each side (+ mid front on jacket). Sew two seams on sewing machine around marking threads, 1st seam = 1/2 sts from 1st st from thread, 2nd seam = 1/2 sts from 1st seam at armhole. Cut up for armhole (+ mid front at jacket). Sew shoulder seams. Jacket: Pick up approx 120 sts along left front band on needle size 2.5 mm and knit Edge (knit al edges in same colour as Rib), cast off, fold edge towards WS and sew. Repeat along right but after 1 cm cast off 6 buttonhole evenly on row - 1 buttonhole = cast off 2 sts, cast on 2 new sts on next row.

Neckline Jacket:
Pick up approx 114 sts around neckline on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and knit Edge, cast off and fold edge towards WS and sew. Sew on Ribbons on front bands and along neck if desired.

Sweater with split neck:
Pick up approx 32 sts along left side of split on front piece on needle size 2.5 mm and knit Edge (knit all Edges in same colour as Rib), cast off. Repeat along right side. Fold edges towards WS and sew on. Pick up approx 114 sts around neckline on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and knit Edge, cast off and fold edge towards WS and sew. Sew on Ribbon around neck and split and at bottom of sleeve if desired. Sew sleeves onto body from RS as follows: Sew alternating 1 sts in last garter st round of sleeve before folding edge and 1 sts on body after machine seam. Turn WS out on sweater and sew folding edge from sleeves over cutting edge onto body by hand. Sew 6 buttons onto Jacket or 3 claps on split neck.
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Hat:

Materials:
Alt.1/ Alt.2
350-350-350 (350-350) g colour no 53, grey/ 1, off white
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 1, off white/ 16, grey

DROPS circular needles size 2.5 mm and 4 mm and double pointed needles size 4 mm.

Hat: Cast on 150 (158) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with grey (knit hat in colours of Alt.1) and knit 6 cm rib, change to circular needle size 4 mm and knit M.5 at the same time dec to 102 (108) sts evenly on 1st round. After M.5 complete with grey at the same time insert a stitch marker after every 6th sts. Now knit two sts after stitch marker tog. Repeat this on every 6th row until 17 sts are left. Change to double pointed needles 4 mm when needed.
Pull a double thread through these sts and sew.

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Sock:

Size: Length: 58 (65) cm. - Foot: 23 (26) cm.

Materials: Double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and 3 mm

Knitting tension: 22 sts x 32 rows on needle size 3 mm and stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm Rib: * K1, P1 *

Decrease: * slip next sts loosely off, K1 (WS = P1) psso *

Heel:
1st row: (RS) Knit until 6 (7) sts re-appear on needle. Turn piece.
2nd row: (WS) Knit until 6 (7) sts re-appear on needle. Turn piece.
3rd row: Knit until 8 sts return to row, knit ankle (see explanation!). Turn piece.
4th row: Knit until 8 sts re-appear to row, knit ankle, turn piece.
Then continue knitting so 1 st less on each side before ankle. Continue until 12 (14) sts re-appear.

SOCK
Cast on 72 (80) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with grey (knit sock on colour of Alt.1) and knit 14 (16) cm rib.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit 2 rounds stocking sts at the same time inc 0 (4) sts evenly on 1st row = 72 (84) sts. Knit M.1. Then continuing knit M.2. When piece measures 30 (32) cm begin dec for leg. Dec each side of middle sts back: Knit 2 sts before middle sts tog, (see explanation of dec above) and K2 sts tog after middle sts – repeat on every 5th row (4th row) 12 (16) times in total = 48 (52) sts.
When piece measures 50 (56) cm slip middle 24 (26) sts to front on a stitch holder and complete with grey. Then knit 5 (6) cm stocking sts (heel) over the 24 (26) middle sts back, and then knit heel (see explanation above). Then pick up 12 (13) sts on each side of heel and slip all sts on same needle = 60 (66) sts.
Dec continuing as follows: K2 first of uppermost 24 (26) sts tog and K2 last sts of uppermost 24 (26) sts tog on every other row 6 times in total = 48 (54) sts.
Knit until foot measures approx 19 (21.5) cm.
Insert a stitch marker on each side of foot and dec for toe on each side of marker as follows: K2 sts before marker tog and K2 sts after tog, repeat 3 times on every other row = 36 (42) sts. Then 7 (9) times on every row = 8 (6) sts. Pull sts tog and sow away thread well.
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Head band
Materials:
Alt.1/ Alt.2
150-150-150 (150-150) g colour no 53, grey/ 1, off white
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 1, off white/ 16, grey

Head band:
Cast on 120 (126) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with same colour as rib on sweater and knit 16 rounds stocking sts, P1 round, M.4, P1 round, 2 rounds stocking sts, cast off. Sew edges and cast off edge tog with mattress sts in outermost sts to avoid a thick seam. Mitten:

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Mittens:

Materials: DROPS Double poined needles size 3 mm.

Knitting tension: 22 sts x 32 rows on needle size 3 mm and stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm Rib: * K1, P1 *

Hand:
Figures in ( ) = Gent size. Cast on 48 (56) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with grey (knit mittens in Alt.1) and knit 2 cm stocking sts, P1 round, M.5. Then knit 3 cm Rib – cast off 4 (4) sts evenly on row = 44 (52) sts. Measures piece from here! Next row as follows: M.7, 17 (21) of M.8, M.7, 17 (21) sts of M.8. (insert a marking thread or stitch marker in transition from M.8 to M.7 for thumb). When piece measures 1 cm inc on each side of 1 sts with marking thread or stitch marker for thumb as follows: 1 sts 6 (6) times on every 3rd row = 56 (64) sts – knit inc sts into M.8 after each. When piece measures 6.5 (7) cm slip middle 13 (13) sts over thumb on a thread or stitch holder and on next row cast on 1 sts over these = 44 (52) sts. Continue until piece measures 17 (18) cm. Insert one marking thread or stitch marker in middle of each M.7. Now cast off on each side of marking thread on every row 1 sts (minus 4 sts per round)- repeat 10 (11) times. Pull thread through last sts and sew on.

Thumb: Pick up 16 (20) sts around thumb and knit 6.5 cm M.8, then knit sts tog two by two, pull double thread through sts.

Diagram explanations
symbol = off white (alt1), grey (alt 2)
symbol = grey (alt1), off white (alt2)

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