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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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All measurements in charts are in cm.
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS | |
= 1 yo + slip 1 st as if to K | |
= From WS: P tog yo and slipped st | |
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle | |
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle | |
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle | |
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front pf piece, K3, K3 from cable needle |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
DROPS 83-16 |
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DROPS Pullover and hat in Karisma Superwash and Vivaldi
DROPS 83-16 |
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PULLOVER: Gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows with 1 strand of each yarn (2 strands) in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm. Pattern: See charts. The pattern is seen from the right side. Increasing tips (for darts on Body): Inc 1 st at either side of the center front cable, inside of the sts marked with arrows on the chart, by pulling up a st from the previous row and P the pulled up st. All incs are made on right side rows. Decreasing tips (for darts on Body): Dec at either side of the center front cable, inside of the sts marked with arrows on the chart for Pattern 1 (M.1). All decs are made on right side rows. Dec 1 st as follows: After the st with arrow: P 2 tog, twisting sts Before the st with arrow: P 2 tog Front: Cast on 76-82-88-96-106 sts with 1 strand Karisma Superwash + 1 strand Vivaldi (= 2 strands). K 2 rows (1st row = right side), then establish pattern on the next row as follows: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), 6-8-10-14-18 sts reverse stockinette st, Pattern 1A (= 12 sts), 8-9-10-10-11 sts reverse stockinette st («dart panel»), Pattern 1B (= 22 sts), 8-9-10-10-11 sts reverse stockinette st («dart panel»), Pattern 1C (= 12 sts), 6-8-10-14-18 sts reverse stockinette st, and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st). When the piece measures 4-4-4-6-6 cm dec 1 st in each «dart panel» inside of the sts marked with arrows on the chart – see decreasing tips above. Dec every 4 rows 6 times = 64-70-76-84-94 sts. Continue in pattern as established. Read the entire next section before knitting: Incs: When the piece measures 18-19-20-21-22 cm inc inside of the sts marked with arrows in chart – see increasing tips above. Inc every 6 rows 10 times (the incs continue during armhole shaping). Armhole: When the piece measures 37-38-39-40-41 cm – you should have increased 7 sts in each dart panel – bind off for armhole at each side every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-2-2-4 times and 1 st 1-3-3-4-4 times. Continue in pattern as established, keeping 1 edge st at each side in garter st as before. After all shaping is complete, 72-74-76-76-78 sts remain. Neck: When the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55 cm – adjust so that you end after approx. 3 to 5 rows after a cable at center front – dec 4 sts over the center cable 12 sts as follows: * K 1, K 2 tog * , repeat * - * a total of 4 times = 68-70-72-72-74 sts. On the next row put the center 12-12-14-14-14 sts on a st holder for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 3 times = 21-22-22-22-23 sts remain on each shoulder. Right shoulder: When the piece measures 55-57-59-61-63 cm dec 1 st over cable = 20-21-21-21-22 sts remain on shoulder. P 2 rows (1st row wrong side) then bind off. Left shoulder: Knit the same as the right shoulder, but start binding off 1 cm sooner, when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm (for zipper opening). Back: Cast on and knit the same as the front. Bind off for armhole as on front. When the piece measures 53-55-57-59-61 cm – adjust so that you end 3 to 5 rows after a cable. Dec sts over the center cable as on front = 68-70-72-72-74 sts. On the next row bind off the center 24-24-26-26-26 sts for the neck. On the next row dec 1 st at each neck edge = 21-22-22-22-23 sts remain on each shoulder. When the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm – match front – dec 1 st over cable on left shoulder = 20-21-21-21-22 sts remain. P 2 rows (1st row wrong side) and bind off. Repeat on right shoulder to match measurements on the front. Sleeve: Cast on 53-53-53-61-61 sts with 1 strand Karisma Superwash + 1 strand Vivaldi (= 2 strands). K 2 rows (1st row = right side), then knit 1st row of Pattern 2 keeping 1 st at each edge in stockinette st – but on the 1st row of pattern, P 3 instead of P 2 between each yo, slip 1. On the 3rd row dec all P 3 to P 2 = 41-41-41-47-47 sts, continue with Pattern 2 as shown in chart. When the piece measures 22 cm - adjust so that the next row is worked from wrong side - P 3 rows, and then continue with Pattern 3 over the center 19 sts until finished measurements - remaining sts works in reverse stockinette. At the same time when the piece measures 24 cm inc 1 st at each side every 3-2,5-2nd-2nd-1,5 cm a total of 8-10-11-10-12 times = 57-61-63-67-71 sts - purl the increased sts. When the piece measures 50-49-48-47-44 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 2-2-2-1-1 times, 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2 times and 1 st 0-1-1-3-6 times, then 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 54-54-54-55-55 cm, then bind off 3 sts 1 time at each side. Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 55-55-55-56-56 cm. Assembly: Sew right shoulder. Collar: Pick up approx. 72-81 sts (incl. sts on st holder, divisible by 3) around the neck with 1 strand Karisma Superwash + 1 strand Vivaldi. Knit 3 rows garter st (row 1 = wrong side), then knit Pattern 2 keeping 1 st at each edge in garter st – see that the pattern starts and ends alike at each side. When the collar measures 7-7-8-8-8 cm knit 2 rows stockinette st then bind off. Zipper: Sew zipper in left shoulder collar – start at the top on the collar and down along shoulder. If the zipper does not reach the armhole/shoulder seam, sew the shoulder together at armhole. Sew in sleeves using edge sts as seam allowance. Sew sleeve and side seams using edge sts as a seam allowance. HAT: Sizes: S/M - M/L Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio 100 gr nr 62, brown and use: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio 50 gr nr 02, brown + leftover black Snow nr 02, for crocheted edge DROPS 5 mm [US 8] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge. DROPS 7 mm [US K] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge. Gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm. Reverse crochet: Crochet sc from right side of work, from left to right. Hat: Cast on 79-86 sts with 1 strand Karisma Superwash + 1 strand Vivaldi (= 2 strands) and knit garter st. When the piece measures 18-20 cm put 7 markers in work as follows: 2 sts, * 1 marker, 11-12 sts *, repeat * - * a total of 7 times – after last marker there are 11-12 sts. Change to stockinette st, decreasing on the left side of each marker by K 2 tog. Dec in the same manner every other row until 9 sts remain on needles. Pull a strand of yarn through the remaining sts, pull tight and fasten neatly. Assembly: Sew hat at center back inside of 1 edge st. The 8-9 cm of garter st folds out to right side, so the seam for those 8-9 cm should be on the other side so it isn’t seen when folded out. Hat measures approx. 20-22 cm when edge is folded out. Crocheted edge: Crochet 1 row reverse crochet with black Snow along folding edge – see instructions above. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (7)
Evelyn wrote:
Hallo, ich finde das Modell sehr schön und überlege es zu stricken, aber die Übersetzung finde ich sehr schwer zu lesen. Sonst kann ich Strickanleitungen sehr gut lesen. Vielleicht nochmal überarbeiten. Liebe Grüße Evelyn
07.10.2021 - 18:06Bloem wrote:
Goedemiddag, ik heb 3 vragen: Kan deze trui ook alleen met Karisma gebreid worden, dus zónder Vivaldi, of gaat er dan een bepaald effect verloren? En hoe zit het dan met de stekenverhouding? En is het per se nodig om er een rits in te maken?
13.01.2020 - 12:39DROPS Design answered:
Dag Bloem,
De rits lijkt me inderdaad niet perse nodig, dus dan zou je de linker schouder net als de rechter schouder kunnen maken. Vivaldi geeft wat een extra 'dimensie' aan het breiwerk door het harige karakter, met alleen Karisma wordt het zeg maar wat platter/vlakker. Je zou ook met 2 draden Karisma kunnen breien en evt. de naalddikte aanpassen zodat de stekenverhouding klopt.
17.01.2020 - 18:16Tineke Van Rijn-Smits wrote:
Dank voor uw snelle reactie. Ik denk dat het slim is om de trui op mijn heupen/zitvlak wat wijder te maken. Vraag is alleen hoe ik dat dan aanpak. Opzetten en beginnen voor maat XL tot ik die drie herhalingen heb gedaan? Kom ik dan weer makkelijk in mijn 'eigen' maat M? Het lijkt mij een lastige puzzel! Heeft u een suggestie?
22.11.2017 - 23:19DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Tineke, Je kan het beste uitgaan van maat M en dan in de averechte delen meer steken verwerken ter hoogte van de heupen. Deze minder je vervolgens richting de taille.
13.12.2017 - 18:31Tineke Van Rijn-Smits wrote:
Ik wil dit patroon graag gaan breien, maar dan 30 cm langer zodat de trui makkelijk op een legging kan worden gedragen. Brei ik dan eerst 30 cm voordat ik de overige aanwijzingen in het patroon ga toepassen of krijg ik dan een heel raar model?
22.11.2017 - 11:07DROPS Design answered:
Hallo Tineke, Het mooiste is om de kabel naar beneden door te laten lopen en dus gelijk met de kabel te beginnen. Met ongeveer 3 herhalingen van A.1 heb je ongeveer 25 cm erbij. Maar misschien wil je hem ook iets wijder hebben. Daarvoor moet je meer steken opzetten en deze in de averechte delen verwerken.
22.11.2017 - 19:38Achoth wrote:
Thank you! That helps.
18.02.2008 - 04:43DROPS Design wrote:
The translations for the Diagrams for all Garnstudio patterns are included within the text of the Pattern itself. If you look you will find lines starting with an = sign. These are the translations, and they are given in the same vertical order as the chart symbols within the diagram.
18.02.2008 - 04:01Achoth wrote:
The pattern was translated, but the stitch diagram was not. Could someone translate this, or let me know where I could find something similar in English? Thanks.
18.02.2008 - 03:52