DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Sherwood Smiles

Knitted jumper with short sleeves in DROPS Safran. Piece is knitted top down with double neck edge, saddle shoulder increase, stocking stitch and short puffed sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 239-16
DROPS design: Pattern e-351
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-350-400-400-450 g colour 58, amethyst

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

INCREASE TIP-1 (from right side):
INCREASE TOWARDS THE RIGHT BEFORE MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from round below, pick up yarn from the back and knit stitch in front loop of stitch.
INCREASE TOWARDS THE LEFT AFTER MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from round below, pick up yarn from the front and knit stitch in back loop of stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (from wrong side):
INCREASE TOWARDS THE RIGHT BEFORE MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from round below, pick up yarn from the front and purl stitch in back loop of stitch.
INCREASE TOWARDS THE LEFT AFTER MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from round below, pick up yarn from the back and purl stitch in front loop of stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work double neck edge in the round on circular needle top down. Then work neck line with short rows, this is worked back and forth on circular needle. Work the rest of the yoke in the round on circular needle. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work the body in the round on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

DOUBLE NECK EDGE:
Cast on 116-120-124-134-140-148 stitches with DROPS Safran over a short circular needle size 2.5 and a short circular needle size 3.5 mm held together. Pull out short circular needle 3.5 mm and keep stitches on the short circular needle size 2.5 mm (cast is done like this to get an elastic cast-on edge).
Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) for 7 cm.
Now fold the rib in towards the wrong side to form a double edge - then work next round in rib as before while at the same time working every approx. 4th stitch together with equivalent approx. every 4th stitch from cast-on edge. You now have a double neck edge.
Knit 1 round while increasing 26-26-30-32-34-38 stitches evenly = 142-146-154-166-174-186 stitches. Then work A.1 in the round over all stitches.
When A.1 has been worked, insert 1 marker in the middle of round (mid front). Work yoke as explained below – measure yoke from this marker.

YOKE WITH SADDLE SHOULDER INCREASE:
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Insert 4 markers in the piece as explained below - this is done without working the stitches, and each marker is inserted between 2 stitches. Use these markers when increasing for saddle shoulder. They should be in a different colour than the marker at the front.
1st marker: Count 28-29-31-32-34-37 stitches (half back piece), insert 1st marker before next stitch.
2nd marker: Count 15-15-15-19-19-19 stitches from 1st marker (shoulder stitches), insert 2nd marker before next stitch.
3rd marker: Count 56-58-62-64-68-74 stitches (front piece), insert 3rd marker before next stitch.
4th marker: Count 15-15-15-19-19-19 stitches (shoulder stitches), insert 4th marker before next stitch.
28-29-31-32-34-37 stitches remain on round after 4th marker (half back piece).
Move these 4 markers upwards when working, increase at each of these markers later.
Now work a neck line with short rows as explained below to make the garment hight at the back of neck. This is done while at the same time increasing for saddle shoulders.

Beginning from right side mid back, and work as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work in stocking stitch and increase for saddle shoulders BEFORE 1st marker and AFTER 2nd marker - read INCREASE TIP-1 (2 stitches increased), turn when 2 stitches have been worked past 2nd marker.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work in stocking stitch and increase for saddle shoulders BEFORE 2nd and 4th marker and AFTER 1st and 3rd marker - read INCREASE TIP-2 (4 stitches increased), turn when 2 stitches have been worked past 3rd marker.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work in stocking stitch and increase for saddle shoulders BEFORE 3rd and 1st marker and AFTER 4th and 2nd marker (4 stitches increased), turn when 2 stitches more have been since last turn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work in stocking stitch and increase for saddle shoulders BEFORE 2nd and 4th marker and AFTER 1st and 3rd marker (4 stitches increased), turn when 2 stitches more have been worked since last turn.
ROW 5 (= right side): Work in stocking stitch and increase for saddle shoulders BEFORE 3rd and 1st marker and AFTER 4th and 2nd marker (4 stitches increased), turn when 2 stitches more have been since last turn.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Work in stocking stitch and increase for saddle shoulders BEFORE 2nd and 4th marker and AFTER 1st and 3rd marker (4 stitches increased), turn when 2 stitches more have been worked since last turn.
ROW 7 (= right side): Work in stocking stitch and increase for saddle shoulder BEFORE 3rd marker and AFTER 4th marker (2 stitches increased), work in stocking stitch until mid back.

The short rows are now done, and you have increased 6 times in total for saddle shoulders at every marker = 166-170-178-190-198-210 stitches on row. I.e. it has only been increased on front piece and back piece and number of shoulder stitches is the same.
Continue working in stocking stitch in the round over all stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME continue increase for saddle shoulder the same way as before on EVERY round until increase has been done 20-22-26-28-28-28 times in total including the 6 times in neck line = 222-234-258-278-286-298 stitches.
After last increase piece measures approx. 6-7-8-9-9-9 cm from marker at the front by the neck.

Work next round as follows: Work as before until 1st marker, cast off the 15-15-15-19-19-19 shoulder stitches, work in stocking stitch until 3rd marker, cast off the 15-15-15-19-19-19 saddle shoulder, work as before the rest of round = 192-204-228-240-248-260 stitches. Keep the markers in the piece - use the markers when increasing for sleeves.
Work 48-51-57-60-62-65 stitches in stocking stitch (half back piece), cast on 52-52-52-66-66-66 new stitches on needle for sleeve, work 96-102-114-120-124-130 stitches in stocking stitch (front piece), cast on 52-52-52-66-66-66 new stitches on needle for sleeve, work 48-51-57-60-62-65 stitches in stocking stitch (half back piece) = 296-308-332-372-380-392 stitches. Then increase for sleeves as explained below.

SLEEVE INCREASE:
Work in stocking stitch in the round. AT THE SAME TIME on next round increase 4 stitches for sleeves as follows:
Increase AFTER 1st and 3rd marker and increase BEFORE 2nd and 4th marker – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
Increase now only on sleeves and number of stitches on front pieces and back piece is the same. Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.
Increase like this every other round 23-24-25-21-27-25 times in total, then increase on every round 0-0-5-9-0-0 times in total = 388-404-452-492-488-492 stitches.
Piece measures approx. 20-22-25-25-26-25 cm from marker by the neck. Then increase for yoke as explained below.

YOKE INCREASE:
Move the 4 marker so that they are in each side on sleeves (markers are now in a stitches and there are 96-98-110-124-118-114 stitches between stitches with marker).
Continue in stocking stitch. AT THE SAME TIME on first round increase 8 stitches for yoke as follows:
Increase BEFORE and AFTER each of the 4 markers - remember INCREASE TIP-1.
Increase stitches on both on front piece, back piece and sleeves. Increase like this EVERY round 6-6-4-7-11-15 times in total.
After last increase there are 436-452-484-548-576-612 stitches on row and piece measures approx. 22-24-26-27-29-29 cm from marker mid front.
On next round divide yoke for body and sleeves as follows: Work 54-57-61-67-73-80 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 110-112-120-140-142-146 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (in the side under sleeve), work 108-114-122-134-146-160 stitches (front piece), slip the next 110-112-120-140-142-146 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (in the side under sleeve), work the last 54-57-61-67-73-80 stitches (= half back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. Now measure piece from here!

BODY:
= 232-248-268-292-320-352 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round until piece measures 20-20-20-20-20-22 cm from division. Knit 1 round while increasing 63-73-77-83-93-97 stitches evenly = 296-320-344-376-412-450 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) for 5 cm. Cast off. Jumper measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 110-112-120-140-142-146 stitches from thread in one side of piece a short circular needle size 3.5 mm – pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 118-122-132-152-156-162 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve – in the middle of the 8-10-12-12-14-16 stitches. Move the marker thread upwards when working - it should be used for decrease.
Begin round at the marker thread, and work stocking stitch in the round. AT THE SAME TIME on first round decrease 12-14-16-18-20-22 stitches evenly = 106-108-116-134-136-140 stitches.
When piece measures 1 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every cm 9-8-6-6-5-5 times in total = 88-92-104-122-126-130 stitches. After last decrease knit 1 round while decreasing 10-12-22-36-36-38 stitches evenly = 78-80-82-86-90-92 stitches.
Work A.1 in the round over all stitches. When A.1 has been worked, switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) for 3 cm. Cast off. Sleeve measures approx. 13-12-10-10-9-9 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Baste a strand up and down through cast-on edge at the top on sleeve . Wrinkle the sleeve cap so that it fits in the opening where stitches were cast off on shoulder. Sew sleeve cap to shoulder stitches that were cast off. Repeat in the other side.

Diagram

symbols = shoulder increase
symbols = sleeve increase
symbols = yoke increase
symbols = knitting direction
symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over to make a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Vibeke wrote:

Ang bærestykkeøkning. Jeg skjønner ikke helt hvordan jeg skal finne riktig maske å sette merkene i. Skal jeg telle meg ut fra midt bak?

23.01.2024 - 22:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Vibeke, Du teller fra begynnelsen av omgangen, riktig antall masker og setter merket før neste masken, tell igjen riktig antall masker og setter merket før neste masken, osv. God fornøyelse!

24.01.2024 - 06:39

country flag Nettan wrote:

Hej! Stickar denna i strl S och ska snart börja göra resåren i slutet. Funderar över varför jag ska öka med hela 63maskor innan resår? Låter väldigt mycket?! På den ritande bilden ser det ut som det är väldigt rakt från ärmhålan ner till resåren!! Hur ser tröjan ut på? Bilderna visar inte riktigt detta Mvh

17.11.2023 - 15:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Nettan. Jo, det skal økes før man strikker vrangborden. Dette gjøres for å få en pen overgang mellom fram-og baskstykket. Når man bytter til mindre pinne str. og øker masker masker før vrangbord vil man få samme mål det er under ermhullet og vrangborden (rakt från ärmhålan ner till resåre). Om man ønsker en trangere/smalere vrangbord, man kan la være å øke masker før vrangbord, bare husk å ha et maskeantallet vrangborden går opp i. mvh DROPS Design

20.11.2023 - 09:12

country flag Margaretha wrote:

Hej! Jag stickar tröjan 239-16 på rundsticka. När jag lagt upp maskor för ärmen har jag svårt för att fortsätta sticka vidare, jag når inte fram med stickorna så jag kan fortsätta. Hur ska jag göra för att fortsätta?

16.09.2023 - 21:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Margaretha Kan være litt stramt men bruk en settpinne til hjelp. Strikk noen masker med en settpinne før du setter maskene på rundpinnen igjen. Vil bli lettere etter noen omganger. mvh DROPS Design

18.09.2023 - 14:22

country flag Katharine wrote:

Thank you so much for your quick answer. This is very helpful. Now I can go on knitting :)

14.09.2023 - 09:44

country flag Katharine wrote:

Hello I have again a question concerning the short rows it says in the first row - turn when 2 stitches have been worked past 2nd marker- does the increase stitch count as one and do I knit another additional stitch and then turn? And do I always repeat this the same way till row 7? Thank you once more for your help.

13.09.2023 - 23:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Katharine, The 2 stitches which are worked after the marker do not include the increase, and the same applies to all the short rows (so work the increase after the marker, then work 2 more stitches before turning). Happy knitting!

14.09.2023 - 06:43

country flag Katharine wrote:

Thank you very much for your quick answer. I did make a new gauge with the size 4 needles and had 24 stitches. So I decided to work with the size 4 and 3 needles as I prefer to have the pullover bigger then the size M. I'll see how it goes and hope it works out well. I've noticed that the models are different and I'm learning to look at the measurements more acurately that I then choose the correct size :)

04.09.2023 - 12:39

country flag Katharine wrote:

Hello I have a question concerning the swatch. I knitted 10 cm with the needle size 3.5 and had 26 stitches for the whidth, that means 2 stitches more then the mentioned 24 stitches. I would prefere the size M but a little bit bigger (but not the size L). What would you advise me to do? Thank you for your help.

02.09.2023 - 11:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Katharine, you could try using a 4mm needle, for the swatch. On another hand, with your gauge, if you work the stitches for the M size you will obtain the measurements of the L size. You can use the stitch count for the S size and you will obtain the measurements for the M size. Take into account that often, when starting to work, the gauge may vary from the initial one and will become looser. Happy knitting!

03.09.2023 - 22:57

country flag Bea wrote:

Ciao, È il mio primo progetto grande e volevo capire come seguire lo schema descritto come A. 1. Sto lavorando con i ferri circolari 2.5 e ho appena finito il bordo del collo doppio. Grazie in anticipo per l'aiuto.

30.06.2023 - 07:35

country flag Melissa wrote:

Is there a video tutorial on attaching the sleeve to the saddle shoulder? Or could you give me a bit more of a detailed instruction on how to do so? Thank you!

25.05.2023 - 19:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Melissa, in this video we show (for another pattern) how to work such a saddle shoulder and, from time code 4:43 how to sew the cast on stitches for sleeve onto the cast off stitches. Happy knitting!

26.05.2023 - 10:01

country flag Lina wrote:

Tips: I stedet for å felle av de 15 skuldermaskene, brukte jeg de to neste omgangene til å øke de 15 maskene til 52 masker (str M) og fulgte deretter oppskriften videre. Ble kjempefin puff, jevn og uten å måtte sy i tråd og feste til slutt.

20.04.2023 - 00:20