DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 3.60 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Peach Blossom Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca Bouclé and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked bottom up with cables, stocking stitch and split in sides. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 241-34
DROPS Design: Pattern ab-143
Yarn group C + A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

YARN:
DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-350-400-450-450 g colour 0100, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-125-150-150 g colour 49, electric orange

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 522: 4-4-4-4-5-5 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
13 stitches in width and 15 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 3.60 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes (2 stitches increased). Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit together the 3rd and 4th stitch from the edge, make 1 yarn over. On the next row, knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Work buttonholes when the piece measures:
XS: 6, 14, 22 and 30 cm.
S: 6, 14, 22 and 30 cm.
M: 6, 14, 23 and 32 cm.
L: 7, 16, 25 and 34 cm.
XL: 7, 14, 21, 28 and 35 cm.
XXL: 7, 14, 21, 28 and 35 cm.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back and front pieces are worked separately, back and forth and bottom up. The sleeves are worked in the round, bottom up, with double pointed needles/short circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 96-100-108-116-128-140 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm, 1 strand DROPS Alpaca Bouclé and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Work the next row as follows from the right side: 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, knit 1, work A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 garter stitch. When A.1 is finished in height, work with stocking stitch and decrease 28-28-30-32-36-40 stitches evenly on the first row = 68-72-78-84-92-100 stitches. The piece measures approx. 9 cm.
Change to circular needle size 7 mm. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm, cast off 1 stitch on each side for the armholes = 66-70-76-82-90-98 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm.

Now you cast off for the neck and work the diagonal shoulders, working the next row from the right side as follows:
Knit 27-29-31-33-37-40 and place these stitches on a thread for the shoulder, cast off the next 12-12-14-16-16-18 stitches for the neck = 27-29-31-33-37-40 stitches left on the needle. Work as follows:
Row 1 (right side): Cast off 1 stitch for the neck = 26-28-30-32-36-39 stitches. Knit until there are 6-7-7-8-9-9 stitches left, turn.
Row 2 (wrong side): Purl.
Row 3 (right side): Knit until there are 12-14-14-16-18-18 stitches left, turn.
Row 4 (wrong side): Purl.
Row 5 (right side): Knit until there are 18-21-21-24-27-27 stitches left, turn.
Row 6 (wrong side): Purl.

Loosely cast off the remaining stitches with knit from the right side. The back piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Place the stitches from the thread back onto circular needle size 7 mm and work in the same way as the first shoulder, but start with the first row from the wrong side.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 60-64-68-72-76-80 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
Work the next row as follows from the right side: 7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.2, work A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1, 1 garter stitch.
Continue this pattern – AT THE SAME TIME work the buttonholes – read description above. When A.1 and A.2 are finished in height, there are 2 increased stitches in A.2 = 62-66-70-74-78-82 stitches. The piece measures approx. 9 cm.
Change to circular needle size 7 mm. Work pattern as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.3 over A.2, work 37-41-45-49-53-57 stitches in stocking stitch and decrease 17-19-20-21-21-21 stitches evenly over these stitches, 1 garter stitch = 45-47-50-53-57-61 stitches. Continue this pattern.
When the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm, cast off 1 stitch from the side for the armhole = 44-46-49-52-56-60 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm.

Now you work the diagonal shoulder, starting from the right side as follows:
Row 1 (right side): Work pattern as before until there are 6-7-7-8-9-9 stitches left, turn.
Row 2 (wrong side): Work pattern as before.
Row 3 (right side): Work pattern as before until there are 12-14-14-16-18-18 stitches left, turn.
Row 4 (wrong side): Work pattern as before.
Row 5 (right side): Work pattern as before until there are 18-21-21-24-27-27 stitches left, turn.
Row 6 (wrong side): Work pattern as before until there are 18-18-19-20-20-21 stitches left by the neck, place these stitches on a thread for the collar = 26-28-30-32-36-39 stitches on the needle. Loosely cast off these stitches with knit from the right side.

COLLAR:
Place the 18-18-19-20-20-21 stitches from the thread on circular needle size 7 mm. Work as follows from the wrong side: 0-0-0-1-1-2 garter stitches, knit over knit and purl over purl until there are 7 stitches left, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue like this (i.e.no more cables) and work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Work the first 14-14-15-15-15-16 stitches, turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work the first 14-14-15-15-15-16 stitches, turn.
ROW 3: Work all stitches, tighten the strand, turn.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Work all stitches.
Repeat rows 1 to 4 until the collar measures 7-8-8-9-9-9 cm at its shortest point – the collar should reach mid-back when stretched slightly. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 60-64-68-72-76-80 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). Work 7 band stitches in garter stitch, purl to the end of the row.
Work the next row as follows from the right side: 1 garter stitch, knit 1, work A.1 until there are 18 stitches left, work A.4 and 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
When A.1 and A.4 are finished in height, 2 stitches have been increased in A.4 = 62-66-70-74-78-82 stitches. The piece now measures approx. 9 cm.
Change to circular needle size 7 mm. Work pattern as follows: 1 garter stitch, work 36-40-44-48-52-56 stitches in stocking stitch and decrease 17-19-20-21-21-21 stitches evenly over these stitches, work A.5 over A.4, 7 band stitches in garter stitch = 45-47-50-53-57-61 stitches. Continue this pattern.
When the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm, cast off 1 stitch from the side for the armhole = 45-47-50-53-57-61 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm.
Now you work the diagonal shoulder, starting from the wrong side as follows:
Row 1 (wrong side): Work pattern as before until there are 6-7-7-8-9-9 stitches left, turn.
Row 2 (right side): Work pattern as before.
Row 3 (wrong side): Work pattern as before until there are 12-14-14-16-18-18 stitches left, turn.
Row 4 (right side): Work pattern as before.
Row 5 (wrong side): Work pattern as before until there are 18-21-21-24-27-27 stitches left, turn.
Row 6 (right side): Work pattern as before until there are 18-18-19-20-20-21 stitches left by the neck, place these stitches on a thread for the collar = 26-28-30-32-36-39 stitches on the needle. Loosely cast off these stitches with knit from the right side.
COLLAR:
Place the 18-18-19-20-20-21 stitches from the thread on circular needle size 7 mm. Work as follows from the right side: 0-0-0-1-1-2 garter stitches, knit over knit and purl over purl until there are 7 stitches left, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue like this (i.e.no more cables) and work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Work the first 14-14-15-15-15-16 stitches, turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (right side): Work the 14-14-15-15-15-16 stitches.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Work all stitches, turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 4 (right side): Work all stitches.
Repeat rows 1 to 4 until the collar measures 7-8-8-9-9-9 cm at its shortest point – matching it to the collar on the right front piece. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Cast off.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 56-56-60-60-64-64 stitches with double pointed needles size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). Knit 1 round, then work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 10 cm. Knit 1 round and decrease 21-20-22-21-24-22 stitches evenly spaced = 35-36-38-39-40-42 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 7 mm. Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round (mid-under sleeve). Work stocking stitch. When the sleeve measures 14-13-13-12-11-13 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 5½-4½-4½-4-3½-3 cm a total of 6-7-7-8-9-9 times = 47-50-52-55-58-60 stitches. Cast off when the sleeve measures 44-44-44-43-41-39 cm. Work 1 more sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside 1 stitch. Sew the collar together mid-back and sew the collar to the neck-line. Sew in the sleeves. Sew the side seams inside 1 edge stitch down to the rib, leaving a split in the sides.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is purled twisted on next row
symbols = place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = place 4 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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