DROPS Wish
DROPS Wish
50% Alpaca, 33% Cotton, 17% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 58.30€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Ivory Collage Cardigan

Knitted jacket in 1 strand DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with European/diagonal shoulders and relief-pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 239-31
DROPS Design: Pattern wi-056
Yarn group E or C + C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS WISH from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
550-600-650-700-800-850 g, colour 01, off white

Or use:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
500-550-600-650-750-800 g, colour 01, off white

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 540: 2 items in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Wish
DROPS Wish
50% Alpaca, 33% Cotton, 17% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 58.30€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE:
Increase towards the left AFTER MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop.
Increase towards the right BEFORE MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop.

INCREASE TIP FROM WRONG SIDE:
Increase towards the left AFTER MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and purl stitch in front loop.
Increase towards the right BEFORE MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and purl stitch in back loop.


DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down until the armholes are finished. Stitches are knitted up along each shoulder and increased for the neck, then the front pieces are worked back and forth with circular needle until the armholes are finished. The body is joined and finished back and forth. Stitches are knitted up for the sleeves and the sleeve worked in the round, with short circular needle/double pointed needles. The neck is worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 18-18-20-20-22-22 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm and 1 strand DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Insert 1 marker inside the first 3 stitches on each side. The markers should sit inside the 3 outermost stitches on each row onwards.
Work stocking stitch back and forth, AT THE SAME TIME increase AFTER the marker at the beginning of the row (right side) and BEFORE the marker at the end of the row – read INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE.
On the next row (wrong side) increase in the same way - read INCREASE TIP FROM WRONG SIDE.
Increase like this from both the right and wrong side a total of 18-20-20-22-22-24 times. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After the last increase there are 54-58-60-64-66-70 stitches. The piece is now measured from here!
Continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 14-15-16-16-17-18 cm, measured along the armhole. Cut the yarn, put stitches on a thread or on extra needle and work the front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Start on the left shoulder (when the garment is worn).
Cast on 9 stitches (band), then knit up 18-20-20-22-22-24 stitches inside the 1 edge stitch along the left shoulder on the back piece (i.e. knit up 1 stitch in each row) = 27-29-29-31-31-33 stitches. Work A.1 over the first 9 stitches (= band) and stocking stitch over the other stitches (seen from right side). When the piece measures 6 cm, increase for the neck at the beginning of the row from the right side. Increase after 11 stitches (A.1 + 2 stocking stitches) – remember INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE. Increase every 4th row 6 times, then every 6th row 2-2-3-3-4-4 times. When the piece measures 24-25-26-28-29-30 cm, put stitches on a thread or an extra needle – make sure that the last row is worked from the right side. Cut the yarn. Work the right shoulder as explained below.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Knit up 18-20-20-22-22-24 stitches inside the 1 edge stitch along the right back shoulder, cast on 9 stitches at the end of the row (band) = 27-29-29-31-31-33 stitches. Work stocking stitch until there are 9 stitches left, then work A.2 (seen from right side). When the piece measures 6 cm, increase for the neck at the end of the row from the right side. Increase before the last 11 stitches (2 stocking stitches + A.2) – remember INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE. Increase every 4th row 6 times, then every 6th row 2-2-3-3-4-4 times. AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 24-25-26-28-29-30 cm work as follows from the wrong side: Work the stitches from the right front piece, cast on 6-6-8-10-14-16 stitches at the end of the row, work from the wrong side over the 54-58-60-64-66-70 stitches on the back piece, cast on 6-6-8-10-14-16 stitches, work the stitches on the left front piece.

BODY:
Continue back and forth with stocking stitch and A.1/A.2. Continue to increase for the neck on the front pieces. When the increases are finished there are 136-144-152-164-176-188 stitches. The first and third time the top 6 rows in A.1/A.2 are worked, work them over all stitches on the body. NOTE! So the pattern matches the bands, start and finish with a yarn over on the body-stitches. This increased stitch will be decreased on the next row by knitting 2 together. Work stocking stitch and pattern until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 52-56-60-64-72-76 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase the bands) = 188-200-212-228-248-264 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 7 mm. Work rib as follows from the wrong side: 9 band stitches as before, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 11 stitches left, purl 2, then 9 band stitches as before. Continue this rib for 10 cm. Cast off.

LEFT SLEEVE:
Use circular needle size 8 mm and knit up from the right side 26-28-30-32-32-34 stitches from the bottom of the armhole and up the front piece to the shoulder, then 16-16-18-18-20-20 stitches from the shoulder down the back piece to the bottom of the armhole = 42-44-48-50-52-54 stitches.

Insert 1 marker in the middle of the stitches picked up. Work now back and forth in stocking stitch with short rows for the sleeve cap, to gives a better shape to the sleeve.

1st row (from wrong side): work to 10 stitches after marker, turn.
2nd row (from right side): work to 10 stitches after marker, turn.
3rd row (from wrong side): work to 14 stitches after marker, turn.
4th row (from right side): work to 14 stitches after marker, turn.
5th row (from wrong side): work to the beginning of the row.

Work stocking stitch back and forth for 6-6-7-8-9-10 cm, measure from where the stitches were picked up (all length are measured mid on top of sleeve).

Join the sleeve using short circular needle/double pointed needles size 8 mm. Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round and allow it to follow your work onwards.
Start at the marker-thread and work stocking stitch in the round. When sleeve measures 8-8-9-10-11-12 cm decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 8-5½-5½-4½-4-4 cm a total of 4-5-5-5-5-5 times = 34-34-38-40-42-44 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 34-33-33-32-32-31 cm from the knitted-up edge. There is 14 cm left; try the jacket on and work to desired length before the rib. Knit 1 round and increase 14-18-14-16-14-16 stitches evenly spaced = 48-52-52-56-56-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 7 mm. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 14 cm. Cast off a little loosely. The sleeve measures approx. 48-47-47-46-46-45 cm.


RIGHT SLEEVE:
Work the same way as the left sleeve but knit up in reverse, with first 16-16-18-18-20-20 stitches from the bottom of the armhole up the back piece and 26-28-30-32-32-34 stitches from the shoulder down the front piece. Sew the bottom of the armholes – see sketch.

NECK:
Knit up 1 stitch in each of the 9 garter stitches at the top of the right band with needle size 7 mm. Work garter stitch for 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm; make sure the band reaches approx. mid-back when stretched slightly. Cast off. Work the left band in the same way. Sew the bands together mid-back and sew them to the neck-line.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the 2 buttons to the left band so they can be buttoned through a row of holes on the right front piece.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 22.09.2023
A sleeve cap has been added on top of sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side
symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over which is knitted on the next row to leave a hole
symbols = Bottom of armhole sewn together: b to B
symbols = stitches for front left shoulder (d) are knitted up along back left shoulder (D), stitches for front right shoulder (e), are knitted up along back right shoulder (E)
symbols = knitting-direction
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Marina wrote:

Non so perché ma c'era qualcosa che non capivo, in seguito l'ho terminato ed è molto bello. Seguo sempre i vostri modelli e compro la vostra lana, grazie di pubblicarli:-)

19.01.2024 - 09:35

country flag Marina wrote:

Avviare 9 maglie (bordo), poi riprendere 18-20-20-22-22-24 maglie all’interno di 1 maglia di vivagno lungo la spalla sinistra sul dietro (cioè riprendere 1 maglia in ogni ferro) = 27-29-29-31-31-33 maglie. Lavorare A.1 sulle prime 9 maglie (= bordo) e a maglia rasata sulle altre maglie (visto dal diritto del lavoro), Io a questo punto mi ritrovo il lavoro con il rovescio davanti se inizio dalle prime 9 maglie, cosa devo fare?

22.11.2023 - 10:45

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Marina, può ripartire con un nuovo gomitolo lavorando sul davanti. Buon lavoro!

30.12.2023 - 11:22

country flag Marina wrote:

In effetti ho posto confusamente la domanda. "La 1° e la 3° volta che vengono lavorati i primi 6 ferri di A.1/A.2, lavorarlo su tutte le maglie del corpo. " volevo sapere come lavorare a1 e a2 durante questo ferro

25.09.2023 - 23:27

country flag Marina Venturi wrote:

Salve, sto lavorando il ferro con il lavoro tutto intorno, ho aumentato 2 maglie (prima o dopo le maglie aggiunte per unire il dietro con il davanti?), ho una taglia S quindi ora mi ritrovo 138 maglie. Inizio dal davanti destro con A2, devo lavorare sempre lo schema con 9 maglie o solo 8? A1 lo lavoro solo alla fine sul bordo sinistro? Quante maglie devo avere una volta finito il ferro?

17.09.2023 - 08:00

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Marina, ci può spiegare meglio a quale parte del lavoro sta facendo riferimento? Buon lavoro!

25.09.2023 - 23:20

country flag Karin wrote:

Hej!\r\nPå vänster framstycke.. när jag lagt upp 9 frmkmasker o sen stickar upp resten är d ju naturligt att börja sticka på avigsidan.. fast d står ju” börja på a1.. som d är nu måste jag klippa tråden o börja från 9 framkanterna.. \r\nsen så står d när jag ska börja öka till framstycken att d ska ökas varje varv från rätsidan.. sen så står d var 4 varv.. när jag räknar i hop alla masker så stämmer d med vart 4 varv o även vart 6 varv..

18.08.2023 - 09:26

country flag Ron wrote:

Over meerderen voorpand. Meerderen iedere 4e naald 6 keer = 22 naalden Dan iedere 6e naald 4 keer = 24 naalden Totaal 46 naalden, volgens steken verhouding is dit 46/15 x 10 = 30 cm + 6 cm vanaf het begin = 36 cm. Maar je moet stoppen bij 28 cm, dus dat is te kort om alle meerderingen te kunnen maken.

02.08.2023 - 18:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ron,

Het klopt dat het meerderen nog niet klaar is als het werk die lengte heeft. Het meerderen van de hals gaat door als je bij het lijf aangekomen bent waar je dus de draad weer oppakt.

03.08.2023 - 21:00

country flag Ron wrote:

Om er zeker van te zijn dat ik het patroon juist interpreteer. Het patroon begint met het linker voorpand. De instructie video (#2) met het rechter, klopt dat? M.a.w. voor de linkerkant neem ik steken op van boven naar beneden op het achterpand en voor de rechterzijde van beneden naar boven (naar de hals). Vraag me ook af hoe ik dit moet lezen “….. aan de binnenkant van de 1 kantsteek”. 1 als in eerste of wat anders?

30.07.2023 - 19:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ron,

Het patroon begint inderdaad met het linker voorpand, zoals je het kledingstuk aan hebt. Dus stel je voor dat je het vest aan hebt, waar dan het linker voorpand zit. Het patroon is altijd leidend, de video's kunnen van een ander kledingstuk zijn of meer algemeen. Voor het linker voorpand neem je steken op langs de linker schouder van het achterpand en je breit het linker voorpand van boven naar beneden en dit doe je ook van het rechter voorpand. Hoe je steken opneemt (dus binnen 1 steek) kun je in de instructievideo zien. Die ene steek valt dus aan de binnenkant van het kledingstuk.

08.08.2023 - 11:46

country flag Jennie Hast wrote:

Hej! På bilden ser det ut som att det är ett varv med aviga maskor innan och efter hålmönstret men när jag läser A1 och A2 så ser jag inte det?

22.07.2023 - 13:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jennie. Husk at första och tredje gången de översta 6 varven i A.1/ A.2 stickas, stickas de över alla maskorna på fram- och bakstycket. Krysset i diagrammet = rätmaska från avigsidan. mvh DROPS Design

27.07.2023 - 09:36

country flag Aud Kari Jakobsen Jakobsen wrote:

Hei.Har problemer med å forstå mønsteret på A 1.Hullmønster på kanten på venstre forstykke kommer på vrangsiden (skal være på rettsiden etter beskrivelsen ? Kan dere forklare meg ?

08.07.2023 - 08:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Aud, du ser selve diagrammet fra retsiden, så det er ens på højre og venstre forstykke (bortset fra kantmasken) :)

04.08.2023 - 14:34

country flag Aniek wrote:

Hoeveel bollen drops air heb ik nodig voor maat M of maat L?

14.06.2023 - 12:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Aniek,

Bovenaan bij de materialen staat aangegeven hoeveel gram van de verschillende garens je nodig hebt. het eerste getal slaat op de kleinste maat, het volgende getal op de maat daarna, enzovoort. Voor maat M heb je dus 550 gram DROPS Air nodig en voor maat L 600 gram. 1 bol weegt 50 gram.

14.06.2023 - 18:09