DROPS Soft Tweed
DROPS Soft Tweed
50% Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose
from 4.00 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Rising Blue Tide

Knitted jumper with 1 strand DROPS Soft Tweed and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down, with raglan and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 239-20
DROPS Design: Pattern st-034
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS SOFT TWEED from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B
300-350-350-400-450-500 g colour 02, marzipan
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 11, aquamarine
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-125-125-150 g colour 01, off white
25-25-25-25-25-25 g colour 08, light jeans blue

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Soft Tweed
DROPS Soft Tweed
50% Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose
from 4.00 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch before/after 2 stitches in each transition between body and sleeves; the marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over which is worked twisted on the next round to avoid a hole. The new stitches are worked in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Start 3 stitches before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 88-88-88-104-104-104 stitches with 1 strand DROPS Soft Tweed colour marzipan and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk colour off white, using circular needles size 5.5 and 4.5 mm held together. Remove the needle size 5.5 mm keeping the stitches on the needle size 4.5 mm (this gives you an elastic cast-on edge). Knit 1 round then work rib as follows: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2, knit 1.
When the rib measures 12 cm, fold the neck double to the inside and work 1 more round of rib, working every 4th stitch together with its corresponding stitch on the cast-on edge. You now have a double neck. The yoke is measured from here.
Insert 4 marker-threads as described below, without working the stitches and inserted between 2 stitches. These are used when increasing for raglan.

Count 12-12-12-16-16-16 stitches (half back piece), insert 1 marker-thread, count 20 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker-thread, count 24-24-24-32-32-32 stitches (front piece), insert 1 marker-thread, count 20 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker-thread, there are 12-12-12-16-16-16 stitches left (half back piece).

NECK-LINE:
Now work a neckline with short rows as follows. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and begin mid-back:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit and increase for RAGLAN – read description above, on each side of the first 2 marker-threads (4 stitches increased), turn when you have worked 3 stitches past marker-thread-2.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl and increase for raglan on each side of all 4 marker-threads (8 increased stitches), turn when you have worked 3 stitches past the last marker-thread.
ROW 3: Knit and increase for raglan on each side of all marker threads (8 increased stitches) turn when you have worked 2 stitches past the previous turn.
ROW 4: Purl and increase for raglan on each side of all marker threads (8 increased stitches) turn when you have worked 2 stitches past the previous turn.
ROW 5: Knit and increase for raglan on each side of all marker threads (8 increased stitches) turn when you have worked 2 stitches past the previous turn.
ROW 6: Purl and increase for raglan on each side of all marker threads (8 increased stitches) turn when you have worked 2 stitches past the previous turn.
ROW 7: Knit and increase for raglan on each side of the first 2 marker-threads (4 stitches increased), work back to mid-back.

The short rows are finished and you have increased 6 times for raglan at each marker-thread = 136-136-136-152-152-152 stitches. Continue in the round over all stitches and from mid back.

YOKE:
Continue with stocking stitch and increase to raglan every 2nd round, but every second increase is only on the body; i.e. every 2nd round on the body and every 4th round on the sleeves, alternately 4 and 8 stitches increased. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Increase like this 14-16-20-22-24-24 times on the body (7-8-10-11-12-12 times on the sleeves).
There are 220-232-256-284-296-296 stitches.

Sizes S, M, L, XXL and XXXL (the increases in size XL are finished):
Continue working but now only increasing for raglan on the body (the increases for the sleeves are finished). Increase every 2nd row 3-3-2-1-5 times.

ALL SIZES:
You have increased a total of 23-25-28-28-31-35 times on the body and 13-14-16-17-18-18 times on the sleeves (including the increases on the short rows).

After the last increase there are 232-244-264-284-300-316 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch without further increases until the yoke measures 21-24-26-26-30-34 cm, measure on mid front after neck edge.

Divide for the body and sleeves:
Work the first 35-37-40-44-47-51 stitches (half back piece), place the next 46-48-52-54-56-56 stitches on a thread (sleeve), cast on 10-12-12-14-16-18 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 70-74-80-88-94-102 stitches (front piece), place the next 46-48-52-54-56-56 stitches on a thread (sleeve), cast on 10-12-12-14-16-18 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last 35-37-40-44-47-51 stitches (half back piece).

BODY:
= 160-172-184-204-220-240 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round for a further 17-16-16-18-16-14 cm. Knit 1 round and increase 40-40-44-48-52-56 stitches evenly spaced = 200-212-228-252-272-296 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 8 cm. Cast off. The jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Place the 46-48-52-54-56-56 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 56-60-64-68-72-74 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Work stocking stitch in the round for 3 cm. Now decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-3-2½-1½-1½-1 cm a total of 6-8-9-11-10-10 times = 44-44-46-46-52-54 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 28-26-25-23-20-17 cm. Knit 1 round and increase 4-4-6-6-4-6 stitches evenly spaced = 48-48-52-52-56-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2). In addition work stripes as follows: 1 strand Soft Tweed colour marzipan + 1 strand Kid-Silk colour off white for 7 cm, 1 strand Soft Tweed colour marzipan + 1 strand Kid-Silk colour light jeans blue for 7 cm, 1 strand Soft Tweed colour aquamarine + 1 strand Kid-Silk colour light jeans blue for 4 cm (18 cm of rib). Cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 46-44-43-41-38-35 cm from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Christine Pujol wrote:

Bonjour, je suis désolée de revenir vers vous mais je ne comprends toujours pas l'explication du rang 1 et rang 7: "tricoter et augmenter de chaque côté des 2 premiers fils marqueurs (on augmente 4 mailles)" ? Merci pour votre patience.

06.01.2024 - 14:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Pujol, dans cette vidéo; nous montrons comment augmenter sur l'endroit à chacun des 4 marqueurs (comme ici aux rangs 1, 3, 5, et 7). Sur l'envers, augmentez de la même façon de chaque côté des fils marqueurs (dans la vidéo on n'augmente que sur l'endroit). Bon tricot!

08.01.2024 - 10:08

country flag Christine Pujol wrote:

Bonsoir, concernant le modèle 239-20 et des rangs raccourcis, au rang 2 (sur l'envers), faut-il augmenter dès le fil marqueur 2 ou faut-il tricoter jusqu'au fil marqueur 1 puis commencer les augmentations au fil marqueur 4 puis 3 puis 2 puis 1?

03.01.2024 - 18:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Pujol, sur l'envers vous n'augmentez que pour le devant et le dos, pas pour les manches, autrement dit, vous augmentez avant le 2ème marqueur, après le 3ème marqueur et avant le 4ème marqueur puis après le 1er marqueur. Bon tricot!

04.01.2024 - 08:06

country flag Sylvie Lachance wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai beaucoup de difficulté à porter ces laines, ça pique énormément. Est-ce que je peux utiliser un produit quelconque ou faire quelque chose pour que ça pique moins, à part porter un chandail dessous? Merci beaucoup.

18.07.2023 - 17:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, est ce que vous avez utilise nos laines merinos? Je vous conseille d'essayer DROPS Baby Merino, Big Merino ou Merino Extra Fine. Le coton ne pique pas non plus. Bon tricot!

18.07.2023 - 23:00

country flag Manuela wrote:

Hallo, ich verstehe die Raglanzunahme beim Halsausschnitt leider nicht. Wenn man bei den ersten 2 Markierungen die verkürzten Reihen arbeiten soll dann ist die Erhöhung doch nur zwischen der linken Seite der Rückenteils und des Ärmels. Oder meinen sie mit der 1. Markierung die vor dem Rundenbeginn? Vielen Dank

05.07.2023 - 21:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Manuela, die 1. verkürzte Reihe beginnt an der hinteren Mitte, bei der 1. Reihe (Hin-Reihe) nehmen Sie nur bei den 2 ersten Markierungen (rechte Seite, wenn man den Pullover trägt), bei der 2. Reihe (Rückreihe) nehmen Sie bei den 4 Markierungen), so stricken Sie weiter mit jeweils 8 Zunahmen. Bei der letzten Reihe (= 7. Reihe, Hinreihe, nehmen Sie nur bei 2 Markierungen (linke Seite, wenn man den Pullover trägt), so hat man genau die selbe Maschenanzahl beidseitig zugenommen. Siehe auch diese Technik im Video hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.07.2023 - 10:24

country flag Bettina wrote:

Klopt het dat de verkeerde toeren op de voorkant van de trui komen te vallen? Ik heb Duitse verkorte toeren gebreid, maar toch zie je het goed. Is het niet mooier om deze op de achterkant te werken? De garens breien wel heerlijk!

24.05.2023 - 09:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Bettina,

Wanneer je verkorte toeren breit, brei je recht aan de goede kant en averecht aan de verkeerde kant, waardoor je dit niet zou horen te zien. Het blijft dus tricotsteek.

24.05.2023 - 21:13

country flag Petra wrote:

Nochmal eine Frage zu den 2 Fäden : wäre es alternativ vielleicht auch möglich, einfach eine Nummer größer zu stricken? Ich möchte nur das Tweedgarn nutzen.

18.04.2023 - 10:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, wenn Sie nur Soft Tweed stricken möchten, dann wird die Maschenprobe in der Breite sowie in der Höhe nicht stimmen, wenn Sie dann grössere Nadeln für die Maschenprobe benutzen und dann diese richtige Maschenprobe bekommen würden, dann würde aber die Texture verschieden sein (viel locker als hier). Hier finden Sie Anleitungen für Garngruppe B mit 22-20 Maschen = 1 Faden Garngruppe B. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.04.2023 - 10:54

country flag Petra wrote:

Muss ich doppelte Fäden nehmen? Muss ich andere Maschenzahlen nehmen, wenn ich nur das Tweedgarn nutzen möchte?

15.04.2023 - 21:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, dieses Modell wird mit 2 Fäden gestrickt, dh mit 1 Faden Soft-Tweed + 1 Faden Kid-Silk, wenn Sie mit nur 1 Faden Soft Tweed stricken möchten, wird Ihre Maschenprobe nicht hier stimmen, am besten suchen Sie ein anders Modell mit nur 1 Faden der Garngruppe B aus. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.04.2023 - 09:08

country flag Gallais wrote:

Ah oui, désolée, c'est 232 et 256 mailles, à ce moment de l'explication (pour la taille M): " EMPIÈCEMENT: (...) On a 220-232-256-284-296-296 mailles.( ...) Quand toutes les augmentations sont faites, on a 244-256-276-296-312-328 mailles. " Merci

04.04.2023 - 08:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gallais, il y a une phrase de trop: "Quand toutes les augmentations sont faites, on a 244-256-276-296-312-328 mailles. Continuer en jersey jusqu'à ce que l'empiècement mesure 21-24-26-26-30-34 cm après les côtes, au milieu du devant", mais je ne peux pas la supprimer (on va faire cela apres les Paques). Commencez a partir de la phrase suivante et tous les calculs sont corrects. Bon tricot!

04.04.2023 - 09:42

country flag Gallais wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprend pas, dans l'empiècement, en taille M, après les premières augmentations on a 132 mailles, puis on augmenta 3 X 4 mailles, ce qui devrait faire 144. Or vous dites que l'on a 156 mailles après toutes les augmentations. Merci

02.04.2023 - 22:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gallais, est-ce que vous avez donne de bons chiffres? Dites-moi ou vous etes exactement dane le modele.

04.04.2023 - 07:55

country flag Susi wrote:

Dann nehme ich im Bereich des verkürzten Randes doppelt so schnell zu wie später bei den darauf folgenden Raglanzunahmen in jeder 2.Reihe?

13.03.2023 - 12:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Susi, es sind aber nur 7 Reihen und nur 5 mit 8 Zunahmen + 2 mit je 4 Zunahmen (für symmetrische Zunahmen ). Dann nimmt man 14 bis 24 Mal (siehe Größe) = 28 bis 48 Runden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.03.2023 - 13:31