DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
DROPS Super Sale

Squared Rainbow

Crocheted sweater in DROPS Paris. The piece is worked from the middle outwards with squares, stripes and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 240-18
DROPS Design: Pattern w-891
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 100-108-124-128-140-156 cm = 39 3/8"-42 1/2"-48 3/4"-50 3/8"-55"-61 3/8"
Full length: 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm = 23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-150-150-200-200 g color 70, cherry blossom
150-150-150-150-200-200 g color 02, light turquoise
150-150-150-150-200-200 g color 21, mint green
100-100-150-150-150-150 g color 100, light wash
100-100-100-150-150-150 g color 08, dark purple
100-100-100-100-150-150 g color 71, tangerine
100-100-100-100-150-150 g color 11, opal green
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color 12, red
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color 57, baby pink
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color 31, purple
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color 17, off white
50-50-50-100-100-100 g color 06, cerise

For a sweater worked with only one color, you will need approx. 800-900-1000-1100-
1200-1300 g

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 MM = US H/8.

CROCHET GAUGE:
4 repeats of A.2b in width and 8 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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STRIPES BODY:
Work 1 row/round of each color:
Color 100, light wash
Color 31, purple
Color 12, red
Color 70, cherry blossom
Color 71, tangerine
Color 21, mint green
Color 70, cherry blossom
Color 06, cerise
Color 21, mint green
Color 57, baby pink
Color 17, off white
Color 02, light turquoise
Color 100, light wash
Color 31, purple
Color 08, dark purple
Color 100, light wash
Color 21, mint green
Color 11, opal green
Color 71, tangerine
Color 70, cherry blossom
Color 12, red
Color 31, purple

When these stripes are finished work as follows:
Color 08, dark purple
Color 100, light wash
Color 21, mint green
Color 11, opal green
Color 71, tangerine
Color 70, cherry blossom
Color 12, red
Color 31, purple
Repeat these stripes to finished length. The stripes will end with a different color depending on the size.

STRIPES SLEEVES:
Work 1 round of each color:
Color 21, mint green
Color 70, cherry blossom
Color 06, cerise
Color 21, mint green
Color 57, baby pink
Color 17, off white
Color 02, light turquoise
Color 100, light wash
Color 31, purple
Color 08, dark purple
Color 100, light wash
Color 21, mint green
Color 11, opal green
Color 71, tangerine
Repeat these stripes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

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START PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front and back pieces are worked separately, in the round from the middle outwards in a square. The shoulders are worked back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round, top down. The neck is worked to finish.

FRONT PIECE:
Square:
Start with hook size 5 MM = US H/8 and DROPS Paris in color light wash. Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 and STRIPES BODY – read description above. When A.1 is finished, continue working and increasing as shown in A.1 until the square measures 50-54-56-58-60-62 cm x 50-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 19 3/4"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8" x 19 3/4"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8". REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Now continue as described below - remember STRIPES BODY:

Sizes S-M:
Work back and forth along the bottom edge of the front piece as follows: Fasten the strand with 1 single crochet around the chain-space in the corner and work from the wrong side: A.2a, A.2b as far as the next corner, A.2d around the chain-space in the corner. Turn and work back and forth for 4-2 rows. Cut and fasten the strand.
Now work the shoulders and neck on the opposite side of the square: Insert 1 marker-thread on each side of the middle 6 or 7 double-crochet groups (neck). If there are an even number of double-crochet groups on the row, insert the marker-threads around the chain stitch on each side of the middle 6 double-crochet groups, if there are an odd number of double-crochet groups insert the marker-threads around the chain stitch on each side of the middle 7 double-crochet groups.
Start from the wrong side and work the right shoulder as follows: A.2a around the chain-space in the corner, A.2b as far as the chain stitch with the first marker-thread, work A.2c around this chain-stitch. Work back and forth like this for 4 rows (the piece measures approx. 5 cm = 2" from the square). Cut and fasten the strand.
Skip the 6 or 7 double-crochet groups and work the left shoulder from the wrong side:
A.2e around the chain stitch with the marker-thread, work A.2b as far as the corner, A.2d around the chain-space in the corner. Continue like this for 4 rows (the piece measures approx. 5 cm = 2" from the square) – match to the right shoulder.

Sizes L, XL, XXL and XXXL.
Now work each side as follows:
Fasten the strand with 1 single crochet around 1 corner of the square and work from the wrong side: A.2a, A.2b as far as the next corner, A.2d around the chain-space in the corner. Work 2-2-4-6 rows like this. Cut and fasten the strand and work the other side of the square in the same way.
Now work along the bottom of the front piece as follows:
Fasten the strand with 1 single crochet around the last row at the bottom corner and work from the wrong side: A.2e in the corner (NOTE: work around the last row in the corner), work 1-1-2-3 repeats of A.2b around the 2-2-4-6 rows worked along the side, A.2b as far as the other side, work 1-1-2-3 repeats of A.2b around the 2-2-4-6 rows worked on the other side and A.2c around the corner (NOTE: work around the last row in the corner). Work 2 rows like this. Cut and fasten the strand. Now work the shoulders and neck on the opposite side of the square:
Insert 1 marker-thread on each side of the middle 7 or 8 double-crochet groups (neck). If there are an even number of double-crochet groups on the row, insert the marker-threads around the chain stitch on each side of the middle 8 double-crochet groups, if there are an odd number of double-crochet groups insert the marker-threads around the chain stitch on each side of the middle 7 double-crochet groups.
Start from the wrong side and work the right shoulder as follows: A.2e in the corner (NOTE: work around the last row in the corner), work 1-2-3 repeats of A.2b around the 2-4-6 rows worked on the side, A.2b as far as the chain stitch with the first marker-thread, work A.2c around this chain stitch. Work 4 rows like this (the piece measures approx. 5 cm = 2" from the square). Cut and fasten the strand.
Skip the 7 or 8 double-crochet groups and work the left shoulder from the wrong side:
A.2e around the chain stitch with the marker-thread, work A.2b as far as the corner, work 1-2-3 repeats of A.2b around the 2-4-6 rows worked on the side, A.2c in the corner (NOTE: work around the last row). Continue like this for 4 rows (the piece measures approx. 5 cm = 2" from the square) – match to the right shoulder.

BACK PIECE:
Work in the same way as the front piece, but when working the shoulders and neck work the first 2 rows along the top side of the square + over the rows in each side (applies to sizes L, XL, XXL and XXXL) as follows in the different sizes – remember STRIPES BODY:

SIZES S, M:
Start in the corner from the wrong side and work A.2a around the chain-space in the corner, A.2b as far as the next corner, work A.2d around the corner. Work 1 row back from the right side (= 2 rows).
Insert 1 marker-thread on each side of the middle 6 or 7 double-crochet groups and work the shoulders and neck in the same way as the front piece, but finishing after you have worked 2 rows for the shoulder (a total of 4 rows from the square). Cut and fasten the strand.

SIZES L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Start in the corner from the wrong side and work A.2e in the corner, work 1-1-2-3 repeats of A.2b around the 2-2-4-6 rows worked on the side, A.2b as far as the corner of the square, work 1-1-2-3 repeats of A.2b around the 2-2-4-6 rows on the side, A.2c in the corner (NOTE: work around the last row). Work back from the right side (= 2 rows). Insert 1 marker-thread on each side of the middle 7 or 8 double-crochet groups and work the shoulders and neck in the same way as the front piece, but finishing after you have worked 2 rows for the shoulder (a total of 4 rows from the square). Cut and fasten the strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams – sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch from the wrong side. Insert a marker-thread around the chain stitch after 7-7-8-8-9-9 double-crochet groups down from the shoulder seam on each side of both armholes = approx. 18-18-20-20-23-23 cm = 7"-7"-8"-8"-9"-9" from the shoulder seams (armholes). Crochet together the side seams working through both layers from the wrong side as follows: Start at one marker-thread and work 1 single crochet around the chain stitch, * 4 chain stitches, skip 3 double crochets, 1 single crochet around the next chain stitch *, work from *-* until there is 15 cm = 6" left = split.

SLEEVES:
Read STRIPES SLEEVES.
Start mid-under the armhole at the marker-thread and work the round marked with an arrow as follows: A.3a, work 7-7-8-8-9-9 repeats of A.3b as far as the shoulder seam, work the first double crochet in A.3b in the seam, work 7-7-8-8-9-9 repeats of A.3b from the seam and finish with A.3C. Work A.3, three times in height, then continue as follows: A.2a, A.2b until there is 1 stitch left, A.2c. Continue this pattern until the sleeve measures 47-46-43-43-41-38 cm = 18 1/2"-18"-17"-17"-16 1/8"-15", Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

NECK:
Work with hook size 5 MM = US H/8 and the same color as the last row on the shoulders. Fasten the strand with 1 single crochet in the shoulder seam, working first along the front piece, then the back piece:
ROUND 1: Skip the first row, work (3 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around the next row) down to the first corner (= 4 chain-spaces), work (3 chain stitches, 1 single crochet) around each chain stitch along the last round of the square, work (3 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around the next row) as far as the next shoulder seam, skip the first row on the shoulder/neck on the back piece, work (3 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around the next row) down to the first corner, work (3 chain stitches, 1 single crochet) around each chain stitch along the last round on the square, work (3 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around the next row) as far as the shoulder seam (= 3 chain-spaces).

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 17.04.2023
BACK PIECE:...SIZES L, XL, XXL and XXXL: Start in the corner from the wrong side and work A.2e in the corner, work 1-1-2-3 repeats of A.2b around the 2-2-4-6 rows worked on the side... + SLEEVES: ...work 7-7-8-8-9-9 repeats of A.3b from the seam ...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = work 5 chain stitches and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Black dot is start of round.
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = double crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
symbols = at beginning of row work 3 chain stitches
symbols = at beginning of round work 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
symbols = start on this round/row, previous round/row already worked
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (42)

country flag Anne D wrote:

Bonjour, Je découvre votre site et j\'aime beaucoup !Comment faites vous la couture des épaules ? Quel point utilisez vous? Je vous remercie.

14.03.2024 - 06:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Anne D et merci; vous pouvez assembler les épaules comme les carrés de cette vidéo ou bien les crocheter ensemble comme dans cette vidéo. Bon crochet!

14.03.2024 - 08:49

country flag Irene wrote:

Ik snap niet precies hoe de randen aan de onderkant van het vierkant gemaakt worden. Waarom aan de verkeerde kant beginnen? Klopt het dat het eruit ziet als 4 stokjes aan ieder van de buitenkant (A2a, en A2e) in elke 2e toer? Wat betekent het dat er staat "haak heen en weer voor 4-2 toeren"? 4 voor maat S en 2 voor de andere maten? Of heeft het een andere betekenis? Is het mogelijk om een foto te plaatsen van de zijkant van de onderkant?

10.03.2024 - 17:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Irene,

Omdat je heen en weer haakt, haak je ook aan de verkeerde kant. Je zou ook aan de goede kant kunnen beginnen, maar ik denk dat het de bedoeling is dat je de laatste toer aan de goede kant haakt, vandaar. Begin op de toer met de pijl. Je begint met 3 lossen in de hoek (lossenlus) van het vierkant en je eindigt met een stokje in de hoek (lossenlus) aan de andere kant. Daartussen haak je steeds 1 losse en 3 stokjes in de lossenlus van de vorige toer.

11.03.2024 - 21:15

country flag Sylvia wrote:

Bonjour, les deux carrés sont terminés. Mais j'ai un peu de peine à comprendre pour les deux rangs de côté. On commence sur l'envers A2a = 3 mailles en l'air à la fin du rang A2d = 1 bride dans l'arceau. Ensuite sur l'endroit? 3mailles en l'air et et 4 brides dans le dernier arceau? Merci beaucoup et bonne journée. Une photo détaillée des coins serait utile.

12.09.2023 - 14:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvia, tout à fait ou plus exactement, sur l'endroit, commencez par A.2d = 3 mailles en l'air et terminez par A.2a (= 3 brides dans l'arceau + 1 bride dans la 3ème maille en l'air du début du rang précédent). Bon crochet!

12.09.2023 - 17:18

country flag Sylvia wrote:

Bonjour, une question au sujet de l'échantillon. Il faut commencer avec une chainette de 16 m en l'air, et ensuite sauter une maille et trois brides dans les mailles suivantes une maille en l'air pour avoir 4 groupes de trois brides?

24.08.2023 - 09:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvia, montez un peu plus de mailles en l'air, l'échantillon doit être de 4 motifs de A.2b, n'hésitez pas à en crocheter 6 ou 8 pour pouvoir avoir un meilleur aperçu de la largeur, mais sinon effectivement, vous devez avoir un multiple de 4 + 1 au début + 1 à la fin (pour "encadrer" le motif de chaque côté). Bon crochet!

24.08.2023 - 09:49

country flag Minna Peltonen wrote:

Moi tulin kysymään tosta puseron A2.a-A2.e kohdasta (en ole vielä siinä kohtaa, koska oon tekemässä vasta ekaa neliötä (ajattelin ensin tehdä molemmat neliöt valmiiksi ennenkun siirryn tohon kohtaan) mutt halusin saada vähän tarkemman kuvauksen siitä ennenkun alan tekemään sen, vaikka teen sen raidotuksen sellain ett käytän jämälankoja), ett en oikeen saa selville siitä ett missä kohdassa tehdään ne olkaimet, ennenkun ommellaan kiinni.

14.07.2023 - 11:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hei! Aluksi virkataan neliö (neliöt). Tämän jälkeen virkkaat neliön kumpaankin sivuun ja alareunaan ohjeen mukaisesti. Kun neliön alareunassa on 2 kerrosta, katkaise lanka. Tässä kohtaa virkataan nyt olat: Virkkaa oikea olka seuraavasti (1.kerros = nurja puoli): Virkkaa kulmaan mallivirkkausta piirroksen A.2e mukaisesti (HUOM: Virkkaa kulman viimeiseen kerrokseen), virkkaa sivun 2-2-4-6 kerrokseen 1-1-2-3 piirroksen A.2b mallikertaa, jatka piirroksen A.2b mallivirkkausta, kunnes olet ensimmäisen merkityn ketjusilmukan kohdalla, virkkaa merkittyyn ketjusilmukkaan mallivirkkausta piirroksen A.2c mukaisesti.

18.07.2023 - 17:21

country flag Minna Peltonen wrote:

Moi kysyisin tälläistä liittyen tohon ohjeeseen niin voiko siinäkin ohjeessa käytää jämä lankoja joita on jäänyt edellisistä virkkuu töistä? Meinaan ajattelin jos tekisin ton puseron L-kokoiseksi käyttäen jämä Paris lankaa, jotka oon kerinnyt isoksi keräksi, koska tossa oleva malli kuva näyttää helpolta kuin siinä topissa (en ymmärtänyt sen ohjeen mallikuvaa), joten siksi kyselen tälläistä ett voiko ton puseron käyttäen jämä Paris lankaa.

09.07.2023 - 22:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hei! Kyllä, voit käyttää Paris-langan jäännöslankoja myös tähän puseroon. Ota kuitenkin huomioon, että kyseiseen neuleeseen tarvitaan noin 1000 grammaa lankaa.

11.07.2023 - 14:28

country flag Mette wrote:

Hei. Har dere testet ut denne oppskriften? For garnmengdene stemmer ikke. Jeg er ferdig med kroppen i xxxl og har 25g f.100 igjen, men ca 140g f.02 igjen og 100g f.11. Jeg har fulgt stripene i oppskriften, skal nå rekke opp alt unntatt hovedrutene på kroppen og bytter om på mange farger så jeg slipper å sitte igjen med 1-2 nøster av noe og må kjøpe inn ekstra av andre. Vanligvis så er jeg veldig fornøyd med garnutregning, men denne stemte ikke i det hele tatt...

27.06.2023 - 13:18

country flag Minna Peltonen wrote:

Moi kysyisin vielä tälläistä liittyen tohon puseroon ett kuinka monta kierrosta tulee etu ja taka kappalehin + hihoihin jos käyttää 2 väriä L-kokoon? Kun en oikeen tosta saanut selville siitä että kuinka monta kierrosta tulee jos käyttää noita värejä (mikä aika paljon mun makuun) joten siksi vielä kyselen tälläistä ennenkun ostan ne 2 väriä, joita teen sen puseron L-kokoiseksi.

17.06.2023 - 18:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, neulot aina 1 kerroksen kummallakin värillä tarpeen mukaan (kunnes työ on oikean pituinen).

19.06.2023 - 14:39

country flag Minna Peltonen wrote:

Moi kysyisin tälläistä liittyen tohon puseroon, ett voiko sen virkata myös kahdella värillä L-kokoiseksi (sellain ett ottaa 500g yhtä väriä ja 500g toista väriä)? Kun tossa ohjeessa kerrotaan noi värit (joita oli aika paljon mun makuun) + se ett jos virkaan yhdellä värillä, niin ajattelin kysellä kans tälläistä ett voiko myös ton puseron tehdä kahdella värillä, ett se raidoitukseen tuli 2 väriä (esim. Liila ja tummansininen).

15.06.2023 - 20:48

DROPS Design answered:

Kyllä, voit virkata puseron kahdella värillä. Hanki tällöin molempia värejä 500 grammaa.

16.06.2023 - 17:05

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Hi, I do not understand how to begin crocheting the bottom. I made 2 rows on the side, which ended with 3 dc around the chains and 1 dc in the beg/end '1dc' ... Where do I need to start the bottom? Sorry, but I just can't understand.

18.05.2023 - 17:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ingrid, start the bottom in the first dc worked on the side, then work A.2e (= 3 ch to replace 1st dc, 1 chain and skip the next row on the side), then work A.2b: work 3 dc around first row row, 1 chain, 3 dc around next row, 1 chain (2 repeats); and repeat A.2b as before to the end of the row finishing with 2 repeats of A.2b along the end of the rows on the side and end with A.2c ( 1 dc in the last st on the side). Happy crocheting!

19.05.2023 - 08:17