DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
 100% Alpaca
from 7.00 BGN /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 10.00 BGN /25g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 92.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
  1. Free patterns
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  5. 241
  6. 10

Fabled Harbour Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted bottom up with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 241-10
DROPS design: Pattern z-983
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 4010, light lavender
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-200 g colour 09, light lavender

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTON NO 608: 4-4-4-4-5-5 pieces

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length: 80 cm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jackets & Cardigans Classic Texturesbottom up lace sewn in sleeves shawl collar v-neck
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
 100% Alpaca
from 7.00 BGN /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 10.00 BGN /25g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 92.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Comments (30)

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.
When number of stitches is given in pattern, always count A.1a and A.5a as 5 stitches even though number of stitch on some rows in pattern is 6 stitches (because of increase/decrease in pattern).

KNIT TOGETHER:
FROM RIGHT SIDE: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
FROM WRONG SIDE: Purl 2 together.

STOCKING STITCH:
When working from wrong side, purl and when working from right side, knit.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Begin 1 stitch before marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes (= 2 stitches increased).

BUTTONHOLES (bottom up):
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over to make hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
S: 6, 14, 22 and 30 cm
M: 6, 14, 22 and 30 cm
L: 6, 14, 23 and 32 cm
XL: 7, 16, 25 and 34 cm
XXL: 6, 14, 22, 29 and 36 cm.
XXXL: 6, 14, 22, 29 and 36 cm.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work body back and forth on circular needle up to armholes. Divide the body for front pieces and back piece and finish each part separately back and forth. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle up to sleeve cap, then work the rest of sleeve back and forth.

BODY:
Cast on 272-284-296-320-344-368 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work rib, begin from right side as follows: 7 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, * work A.1, work A.2. *, work from *-* until 7stitches remain, work 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this - remember BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above.
When A.1 and A.2 have been worked 1 time in height, there are 229-239-249-269-289-309 stitches on needle. Work now as follows: 7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a, repeat A.2a until 12 stitches remain, work A.1a, increase 1 stitch, 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue with 7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a, repeat A.2a until 13 stitches remain, work A.1a, purl 1, 7 band stitches in garter stitch. When A.2a has been worked 2 times in total vertically, work pattern and begin from right side as follows:
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Work 7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a, A.2a, purl 1, A.3a, work A.3b until 28 stitches remain AT THE SAME TIME decrease 33 stitches evenly over these stitches, A.3c, A.2a, A.1a, purl 1, 7 band stitches in garter stitch = 197-207-217-237-257-277 stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 21 cm.
Then work pattern as follows (first row is from right side): 7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a, A.2a, purl 1, 0-1-2-0-2-0 stitches in stocking stitch, A.4 until 19-20-21-19-21-19 stitches remain, work 1-2-3-1-3-1 stitch in stocking stitch, A.2a, A.1a, purl 1, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.

When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 25 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a, A.2a, purl 1, work in garter stitch until 18 stitches remain, work A.2a, A.1a, purl 1, 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Work 2 ridges in total.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a, A.2a, purl 1, work A.5 until 19 stitches remain, purl 1, work A.2a, A.1a, purl 1, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat the first 2 rows of A.5 until first row in A.1a should be worked (this is done so that pattern in A.5 is on the same row as in pattern A.1a). Work A.5a over stitches in A.5 and pattern as before until piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm.

Now divide piece for front pieces and back piece on next row from right side:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a, A.2a, purl 1, knit 34-36-37-44-46-48 (right front piece), then slip them on a thread, cast off 2-4-6-6-12-18 stitches for armhole, knit 89-91-95-101-105-109 (back piece), then slip them on a thread, cast off 2-4-6-6-12-18 stitches for armhole, knit 34-36-37-44-46-48, A.2a, A.1a, purl 1, 7 band stitches in garter stitch (left front piece). Now finish each part separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 52-54-55-62-64-66 stitches.
Work first row from wrong side. Knit 3 rows (continue A.1a and A.2a as before). Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
1 stitch in garter stitch, 0-2-3-2-4-6 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.6 until 19 stitches remain, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, A.2a, A.1a, purl 1, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
1 stitch in garter stitch, 0-1-1-1-2-3 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.7 until 19-20-21-20-21-22 stitches remain, 1-2-3-2-3-4 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2a, A.1a, purl 1, 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern until finished measurements.

AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm, work diagonal shoulder, begin on next row from the neck as follows: * Work pattern as before until 9-9-9-10-10-11 stitches remain, turn and work back *, work from *-* 3 times in total. I.e. work 9-9-9-10-10-11 stitches less on every turn from the neck. On last row towards the neck work until 17-18-18-22-23-23 stitches remain, slip the last 17-18-18-22-23-23 stitches on a thread for shawl collar and cast on 2 new stitches on needle = 37-38-39-42-43-45 stitches. Now work and cast off with an edge in i-cord over shoulder stitches.
Work stitches cast on with shoulder stitches as follows:
* Work 1 stitch in STOCKING STITCH – read explanation above, work next stitch together with first/next stitch from shoulder – read KNIT TOGETHER, pass the 2 stitches back on the needle they came from with strand on back side of piece, make sure not to tighten yarn too much *, work from *-* until all stitches from shoulder have been worked together with the 2 new stitches that were cast on. Cast off the 2 stitches.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Slip the 17-18-18-22-23-23 stitches from stitch holder on circular needle size 5 mm. Work band and pattern A.1a and A.2a as before and in garter stitch over the remaining stitches. At the same time work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work over all stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work the first 7 stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work over the 7 stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work over all stitches.
Work 1st to 4th row until shawl collar measures approx. 7-8-8-9-9-9 cm on the shortest. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 52-54-55-62-64-66 stitches. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES!
Work first row from wrong side. Knit 3 rows (continue A.1a and A.2a as before).
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a, A.2a, purl 1, work A.6 until 2-4-5-4-6-8 stitches remain, 1-3-4-3-5-7 stitches in stocking stitch and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a, A.2a, purl 1, 0-1-2-1-2-3 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.7 until 2-3-3-3-4-5 stitches remain, 1-2-2-2-3-4 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern until finished measurements.

AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm, work diagonal shoulder, begin on next row from the neck as follows: * Work pattern as before until 9-9-9-10-10-11 stitches remain, turn and work back *, work from *-* 3 times in total. I.e. work 9-9-9-10-10-11 stitches less on every turn from the neck. On last row towards the neck work until 17-18-18-22-23-23 stitches remain, slip the last 17-18-18-22-23-23 stitches on a thread for shawl collar and cast on 2 new stitches on needle = 37-38-39-42-43-45 stitches. Now work and cast off with an edge in i-cord over shoulder stitches.
Work stitches cast on with shoulder stitches as follows:
Work * 1 stitch in stocking stitch, work next stitch together with first/next stitch from
shoulder – remember KNIT TOGETHER, pass the 2 stitches back on needle they came from with strand on back side of piece, make sure not to tighten yarn too much *,
work from *-* until all stitches from shoulder have been worked together with the 2 new stitches cast on. Cast off the 2 stitches.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Slip the 17-18-18-22-23-23 stitches from stitch holder on circular needle size 5 mm. Work band and pattern A.1a and A.2a as before and in garter stitch over the remaining stitches. AT THE SAME TIME work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work over all stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 2 (= right side): Work the first 7 stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Work over the 7 stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= right side): Work over all stitches.
Work 1st to 4th row until shawl collar measures approx. 7-8-8-9-9-9 cm on the shortest. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Cast off.

BACK PIECE:
= 89-91-95-101-105-109 stitches.
Knit 3 rows (work first row from wrong side). Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
1 stitch in garter stitch, 3-0-2-1-3-1 in stocking stitch, work A.6 until 5-2-4-3-5-3 stitches remain, 4-1-3-2-4-2 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 stitch in garter stitch. When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
1 stitch in garter stitch, 3-0-2-1-3-1 in stocking stitch, work A.7 until 5-2-4-3-5-3 stitches remain, 4-1-3-2-4-2 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern until finished measurements.
When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, cast off the middle 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately (36-37-38-41-42-44 stitches remain on each shoulder). Continue with pattern over stitches that fit the pattern, work the remaining stitches in stocking stitch. On next row from neck cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of row = 35-36-37-40-41-43 stitches.
When piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm, work diagonal shoulder, begin on next
row from the neck as follows:
* Work pattern as before until 9-9-9-10-10-11 stitches remain, turn and work back *,
work from *-* 3 times in total. I.e. work 9-9-9-10-10-11 stitches less on
every row from the neck. On last row towards neck, cast on 2 new stitches at the end of row = 37-38-39-42-43-45 stitches. Now work and cast off with an edge in i-cord over shoulder stitches. Work stitches cast on with shoulder stitches as follows: * Work 1 stitch in stocking stitch, work next stitch together with first/next stitch from shoulder - remember KNIT TOGETHER, pass the 2 stitches back on needle they came from with strand on back side of piece, make sure that strand is not too tight *, work from *-* until all stitches from shoulder have been worked together with the 2 new stitches cast on. Cast off the 2 stitches. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 60-60-60-72-72-72 stitches on double pointed needles size 4 mm with 1 strand of each quality. Knit 1 round. Insert 1 marker at beginning of round.
* Work A.1, work A.2 *, work from *-* over all stitches.
When A.1 and A.2 have been worked 1 time in height, there are 50-50-50-60-60-60 stitches on needle. Now repeat A.1a and A.2a until A.2a has been worked 2 times in total vertically (= A.1a = 4 times). Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round over all stitches - read explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME on first round decrease 2-2-2-4-4-4 stitches evenly = 48-48-48-56-56-56 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm.
Work A.7 in the round over all stitches. Repeat A.7 vertically until finished measurements.
When piece measures 14-14-13-13-13-12 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker - read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this every 5½-4-3-4½-3-2½ cm 6-8-10-7-9-11 times in total = 60-64-68-70-74-78 stitches. Work the increased stitches in the pattern (switch to a short circular needle when increasing stitches). When sleeve measures 45-45-44-43-41-39 cm, work sleeve cap back and forth (from marker thread mid under sleeve) on circular needle until finished measurements. Cast off when sleeve measures approx. 46-46-46-45-45-45 cm. Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside 1 stitch on i-cord edge. Sew shawl collar together mid back (make sure that seam is the correct way when garment is worn) Sew shawl collar to neck line in the back of neck. Sew sleeve cap to armhole. Then sew vent at the top of sleeve to bottom of armhole - see chart. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, purl 1 from cable needle
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked
symbols = this square is not a stitch because stitch was decreased earlier, go directly to next symbol in diagram
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = sew sleeve cap to armhole as follows: Sew a against A and b against B
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (30)

country flag Grit wrote:

Hallo, die abgebildete Jacke (Foto) hat weder Schalkragen noch Armkugeln (wie in der Anleitung beschrieben). Auch im Diagramm gibt es keine Armkugel. Das irritiert.... LG

14.12.2023 - 20:14

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Grit, diese Jacke hat einen einfachen Schalkragen, der wie in Video (aber mit mehr Maschen) gestrickt wird. Es sind keine richtige Armkugel, aber die letzten cm werden in Hin- und Rückreihen gestrickt - siehe Maßskizze und passende Video. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.12.2023 - 08:18

country flag Katie Miller wrote:

Help please! I can’t find a video for “sew shoulder seams inside 1 stitch on I-cord edge”. I’m so excited to have completed this and can’t wait to wear it.

06.12.2023 - 06:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Katie! All the relevant videos for every pattern can be found below the instructions and diagrams. Do not forget that you van roll down the list, if you click within the frame itself- I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

10.12.2023 - 21:01

country flag Grit wrote:

Die vorletzte und letzte Reihe von A1a gehen nicht auf. Die vorletzte Reihe von A1a ergeben 4 Maschen, darüber soll man aber 5 Maschen stricken. ich denke, da müssen ZWEI BLINDFELDER in die letzte Reihe von A1a.

05.12.2023 - 10:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Grit, beachten Sie, daß bei der 3. Reihe in A.1a nur 1 Masche abgenommen wird: 1 Masche wie zum Rechtsstricken abheben, 2 Maschen rechts, die abgehobene Masche über die gestrickten ziehen, die 3 rechte Maschen sind jetzt nur noch 2, so A.1a ist nach dieser Reihe und bei der letzten Reihe nur 5 Maschen, und bei der 1. Reihe wieder 6 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.12.2023 - 15:59

country flag Kathrin wrote:

Ich bin beim linken Vorderteil und frage mich, was ich mit den 9 Maschen machen soll, die ich laut Anleitung 3x weniger stricken muss. Ich finde leider nicht, was ich am Ende mit diesen 9 Maschen machen soll. Soll ich sie abketten? Danke

02.10.2023 - 23:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kathrin, hier werden verkürzten Reihen gestrickt, dh die letzten 9 Maschen der Reihe (für den Schulter) nicht stricken, wenden und die nächste Reihe stricken, wenden, diese 2 Reihen stricken Sie insgesamt 3 Mal - schauen Sie mal dieses Video, wir zeigen, wie man solche verkürzten Reihen strickt, und wie die Maschen für den Schulter abgekettet werden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.10.2023 - 08:13

country flag Isabelle Mallet wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas les explications. Faut il tricoter A1et ensuite A2 pendant 9 rangs don on retrouve avec 2 m endroit, 2 m envers 4 m endroits et 2 m envers et 2 m endroit et le 10 eme rang on effectue les diminutions…et ensuite on tricote en suivant A1a et A2 a? Merci pour votre reponse

22.09.2023 - 19:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Mallet, vous tricotez d'abord alternativement (A.1 et A.2) en entier (vous allez diminuer au 10ème rang), puis vous tricotez A.1a après les mailles de bordure devant comme avant, vous répétez ensuite A.2a jusqu'au dernier A.1 du rang, avant la bordure devant, et vous terminez par A.1a et la bordure devant. Bon tricot!

25.09.2023 - 08:16

country flag Hazel wrote:

For the shawl collar, are the short rows worked over the garter stitch edge or the inner A.2a section?

07.09.2023 - 09:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Hazel, the short rows for shawl collar are worked starting from WS (with 7 sts in garter stitch) on left front piece / from RS (with 7 sts in garter stitch) on right front piece. Happy knitting!

07.09.2023 - 09:26

country flag Giada wrote:

Hi, I have a question related to the last comment. The instructions says “7 band stitches, A1a, repeat A2a untill 13 stitches, work A1a, purl 1, 7 band stitches”. A 1a is shorter then A 2a, so my question is, once I reached the end of A1a do I just work A2a all the way right after the 7 band?

19.08.2023 - 08:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Giada, once you finish a vertical repeat of A.1a, you will restart the repeat, that is, you will start working row 1 of A.1a again and continue upwards. You will repeat A.2a and A.7 in the same way later on, if you need to repeat them several times vertically before reaching the final length. Happy knitting!

20.08.2023 - 17:32

country flag Julia wrote:

At the beguiling of the “BODY” : «When A2a has been worked 2 times vertically…” does it mean that at the end of A1a I work just A2a, and then start again with A1a-A2a and then only A2a again untill the end? I’m so confused..😵‍💫

18.08.2023 - 11:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Julia, A.1a and A.2a are worked over a different number of rows (4 rows for A.1a and 8 rows for A.2a), so that when you have worked A.2a a total of 2 times (= 16 rows), you have worked A.1a a total of 4 times. Happy knitting!

18.08.2023 - 16:12

country flag Shelley Bilodeau wrote:

Is the bottom rib 4p, 2k? If you run A1 then A2 that’s what I see… pls clarify

13.08.2023 - 04:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Shelley, Yes, that is correct, the rib is purl 4, knit 2. Happy knitting!

14.08.2023 - 06:49

country flag Päivi Hoivala wrote:

Kuuluuko A3a, A3b ja A3c neuloa koko rivi vai vain yhtä näistä?. Mielestä silmukat ei riitä. Ohjeessa sanotaan, kun olet neulonut piirroksen 3A loppuun, työn pituus on 21 cm. Pusero-ohjeessa ei ole kuin yksi A3.

25.07.2023 - 10:07

DROPS Design answered:

Piirroksen A.3 mallineule neulotaan seuraavasti: Neulo 7 ainaoikeinneulottua silmukkaa (etureuna), A.1a, A.2a, 1 silmukka nurin, A.3a, neulo mallineuletta piirroksen A.3b mukaisesti, kunnes jäljellä on 28 silmukkaa, ja kavenna SAMALLA tasavälein näiden silmukoiden kohdalla 33 silmukkaa, A.3c, A.2a, A.1a, 1 silmukka nurin, 7 ainaoikeinneulottua silmukkaa (etureuna) = 197-207-217-237-257-277 silmukkaa. Eli piirroksen A.3a mallikerta neulotaan kerran, piirroksen A.3b mallikertaa toistetaan ja piirroksen A.3c mallikerta neulotaan kerran kerroksella.

21.08.2023 - 16:55

Fabled Harbour Cardigan



Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted bottom up with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 241-10
DROPS design: Pattern z-983
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 4010, light lavender
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-200 g colour 09, light lavender

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTON NO 608: 4-4-4-4-5-5 pieces

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length: 80 cm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.
When number of stitches is given in pattern, always count A.1a and A.5a as 5 stitches even though number of stitch on some rows in pattern is 6 stitches (because of increase/decrease in pattern).

KNIT TOGETHER:
FROM RIGHT SIDE: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
FROM WRONG SIDE: Purl 2 together.

STOCKING STITCH:
When working from wrong side, purl and when working from right side, knit.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Begin 1 stitch before marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes (= 2 stitches increased).

BUTTONHOLES (bottom up):
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over to make hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
S: 6, 14, 22 and 30 cm
M: 6, 14, 22 and 30 cm
L: 6, 14, 23 and 32 cm
XL: 7, 16, 25 and 34 cm
XXL: 6, 14, 22, 29 and 36 cm.
XXXL: 6, 14, 22, 29 and 36 cm.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work body back and forth on circular needle up to armholes. Divide the body for front pieces and back piece and finish each part separately back and forth. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle up to sleeve cap, then work the rest of sleeve back and forth.

BODY:
Cast on 272-284-296-320-344-368 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work rib, begin from right side as follows: 7 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, * work A.1, work A.2. *, work from *-* until 7stitches remain, work 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this - remember BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above.
When A.1 and A.2 have been worked 1 time in height, there are 229-239-249-269-289-309 stitches on needle. Work now as follows: 7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a, repeat A.2a until 12 stitches remain, work A.1a, increase 1 stitch, 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue with 7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a, repeat A.2a until 13 stitches remain, work A.1a, purl 1, 7 band stitches in garter stitch. When A.2a has been worked 2 times in total vertically, work pattern and begin from right side as follows:
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Work 7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a, A.2a, purl 1, A.3a, work A.3b until 28 stitches remain AT THE SAME TIME decrease 33 stitches evenly over these stitches, A.3c, A.2a, A.1a, purl 1, 7 band stitches in garter stitch = 197-207-217-237-257-277 stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 21 cm.
Then work pattern as follows (first row is from right side): 7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a, A.2a, purl 1, 0-1-2-0-2-0 stitches in stocking stitch, A.4 until 19-20-21-19-21-19 stitches remain, work 1-2-3-1-3-1 stitch in stocking stitch, A.2a, A.1a, purl 1, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.

When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 25 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a, A.2a, purl 1, work in garter stitch until 18 stitches remain, work A.2a, A.1a, purl 1, 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Work 2 ridges in total.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a, A.2a, purl 1, work A.5 until 19 stitches remain, purl 1, work A.2a, A.1a, purl 1, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat the first 2 rows of A.5 until first row in A.1a should be worked (this is done so that pattern in A.5 is on the same row as in pattern A.1a). Work A.5a over stitches in A.5 and pattern as before until piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm.

Now divide piece for front pieces and back piece on next row from right side:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a, A.2a, purl 1, knit 34-36-37-44-46-48 (right front piece), then slip them on a thread, cast off 2-4-6-6-12-18 stitches for armhole, knit 89-91-95-101-105-109 (back piece), then slip them on a thread, cast off 2-4-6-6-12-18 stitches for armhole, knit 34-36-37-44-46-48, A.2a, A.1a, purl 1, 7 band stitches in garter stitch (left front piece). Now finish each part separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 52-54-55-62-64-66 stitches.
Work first row from wrong side. Knit 3 rows (continue A.1a and A.2a as before). Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
1 stitch in garter stitch, 0-2-3-2-4-6 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.6 until 19 stitches remain, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, A.2a, A.1a, purl 1, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
1 stitch in garter stitch, 0-1-1-1-2-3 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.7 until 19-20-21-20-21-22 stitches remain, 1-2-3-2-3-4 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2a, A.1a, purl 1, 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern until finished measurements.

AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm, work diagonal shoulder, begin on next row from the neck as follows: * Work pattern as before until 9-9-9-10-10-11 stitches remain, turn and work back *, work from *-* 3 times in total. I.e. work 9-9-9-10-10-11 stitches less on every turn from the neck. On last row towards the neck work until 17-18-18-22-23-23 stitches remain, slip the last 17-18-18-22-23-23 stitches on a thread for shawl collar and cast on 2 new stitches on needle = 37-38-39-42-43-45 stitches. Now work and cast off with an edge in i-cord over shoulder stitches.
Work stitches cast on with shoulder stitches as follows:
* Work 1 stitch in STOCKING STITCH – read explanation above, work next stitch together with first/next stitch from shoulder – read KNIT TOGETHER, pass the 2 stitches back on the needle they came from with strand on back side of piece, make sure not to tighten yarn too much *, work from *-* until all stitches from shoulder have been worked together with the 2 new stitches that were cast on. Cast off the 2 stitches.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Slip the 17-18-18-22-23-23 stitches from stitch holder on circular needle size 5 mm. Work band and pattern A.1a and A.2a as before and in garter stitch over the remaining stitches. At the same time work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work over all stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work the first 7 stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work over the 7 stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work over all stitches.
Work 1st to 4th row until shawl collar measures approx. 7-8-8-9-9-9 cm on the shortest. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 52-54-55-62-64-66 stitches. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES!
Work first row from wrong side. Knit 3 rows (continue A.1a and A.2a as before).
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a, A.2a, purl 1, work A.6 until 2-4-5-4-6-8 stitches remain, 1-3-4-3-5-7 stitches in stocking stitch and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1a, A.2a, purl 1, 0-1-2-1-2-3 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.7 until 2-3-3-3-4-5 stitches remain, 1-2-2-2-3-4 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern until finished measurements.

AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm, work diagonal shoulder, begin on next row from the neck as follows: * Work pattern as before until 9-9-9-10-10-11 stitches remain, turn and work back *, work from *-* 3 times in total. I.e. work 9-9-9-10-10-11 stitches less on every turn from the neck. On last row towards the neck work until 17-18-18-22-23-23 stitches remain, slip the last 17-18-18-22-23-23 stitches on a thread for shawl collar and cast on 2 new stitches on needle = 37-38-39-42-43-45 stitches. Now work and cast off with an edge in i-cord over shoulder stitches.
Work stitches cast on with shoulder stitches as follows:
Work * 1 stitch in stocking stitch, work next stitch together with first/next stitch from
shoulder – remember KNIT TOGETHER, pass the 2 stitches back on needle they came from with strand on back side of piece, make sure not to tighten yarn too much *,
work from *-* until all stitches from shoulder have been worked together with the 2 new stitches cast on. Cast off the 2 stitches.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Slip the 17-18-18-22-23-23 stitches from stitch holder on circular needle size 5 mm. Work band and pattern A.1a and A.2a as before and in garter stitch over the remaining stitches. AT THE SAME TIME work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work over all stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 2 (= right side): Work the first 7 stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Work over the 7 stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= right side): Work over all stitches.
Work 1st to 4th row until shawl collar measures approx. 7-8-8-9-9-9 cm on the shortest. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Cast off.

BACK PIECE:
= 89-91-95-101-105-109 stitches.
Knit 3 rows (work first row from wrong side). Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
1 stitch in garter stitch, 3-0-2-1-3-1 in stocking stitch, work A.6 until 5-2-4-3-5-3 stitches remain, 4-1-3-2-4-2 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 stitch in garter stitch. When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
1 stitch in garter stitch, 3-0-2-1-3-1 in stocking stitch, work A.7 until 5-2-4-3-5-3 stitches remain, 4-1-3-2-4-2 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern until finished measurements.
When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, cast off the middle 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately (36-37-38-41-42-44 stitches remain on each shoulder). Continue with pattern over stitches that fit the pattern, work the remaining stitches in stocking stitch. On next row from neck cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of row = 35-36-37-40-41-43 stitches.
When piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm, work diagonal shoulder, begin on next
row from the neck as follows:
* Work pattern as before until 9-9-9-10-10-11 stitches remain, turn and work back *,
work from *-* 3 times in total. I.e. work 9-9-9-10-10-11 stitches less on
every row from the neck. On last row towards neck, cast on 2 new stitches at the end of row = 37-38-39-42-43-45 stitches. Now work and cast off with an edge in i-cord over shoulder stitches. Work stitches cast on with shoulder stitches as follows: * Work 1 stitch in stocking stitch, work next stitch together with first/next stitch from shoulder - remember KNIT TOGETHER, pass the 2 stitches back on needle they came from with strand on back side of piece, make sure that strand is not too tight *, work from *-* until all stitches from shoulder have been worked together with the 2 new stitches cast on. Cast off the 2 stitches. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 60-60-60-72-72-72 stitches on double pointed needles size 4 mm with 1 strand of each quality. Knit 1 round. Insert 1 marker at beginning of round.
* Work A.1, work A.2 *, work from *-* over all stitches.
When A.1 and A.2 have been worked 1 time in height, there are 50-50-50-60-60-60 stitches on needle. Now repeat A.1a and A.2a until A.2a has been worked 2 times in total vertically (= A.1a = 4 times). Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round over all stitches - read explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME on first round decrease 2-2-2-4-4-4 stitches evenly = 48-48-48-56-56-56 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm.
Work A.7 in the round over all stitches. Repeat A.7 vertically until finished measurements.
When piece measures 14-14-13-13-13-12 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker - read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this every 5½-4-3-4½-3-2½ cm 6-8-10-7-9-11 times in total = 60-64-68-70-74-78 stitches. Work the increased stitches in the pattern (switch to a short circular needle when increasing stitches). When sleeve measures 45-45-44-43-41-39 cm, work sleeve cap back and forth (from marker thread mid under sleeve) on circular needle until finished measurements. Cast off when sleeve measures approx. 46-46-46-45-45-45 cm. Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside 1 stitch on i-cord edge. Sew shawl collar together mid back (make sure that seam is the correct way when garment is worn) Sew shawl collar to neck line in the back of neck. Sew sleeve cap to armhole. Then sew vent at the top of sleeve to bottom of armhole - see chart. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

Diagram explanations
symbol = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbol = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbol = purl 2 together
symbol = slip 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbol = slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, purl 1 from cable needle
symbol = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbol = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked
symbol = this square is not a stitch because stitch was decreased earlier, go directly to next symbol in diagram
symbol = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
symbol = knit 2 together
symbol = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbol = sew sleeve cap to armhole as follows: Sew a against A and b against B

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