DROPS Soft Tweed
DROPS Soft Tweed
50% Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose
from 22.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 198.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Marina Del Rey

Knitted jumper in DROPS Soft Tweed. The piece is worked top down with raglan, stripes and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 239-5
DROPS Design: Pattern st-032
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS SOFT TWEED from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour 02, marzipan
150-150-150-150-200-200 g colour 10, denim jeans

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Soft Tweed
DROPS Soft Tweed
50% Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose
from 22.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 198.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch before/after 2 stitches in each transition between body and sleeves, marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches.

From right side:
INCREASE 1 STITCH BEFORE MARKER-THREAD:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the strand from behind and knit the front loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH AFTER MARKER-THREAD:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the strand from the front and knit the back loop.

From wrong side:
INCREASE 1 STITCH BEFORE MARKER-THREAD:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the strand from the front and purl the back loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH AFTER MARKER-THREAD:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the strand from behind and purl the front loop.

STRIPES:
When the piece measures 7-8-8-8-8-9 cm from the ribbing (measured mid-front), work stripes as follows: * 2 cm with colour denim jeans, 3½ cm with colour marzipan *, work from *-* until you have worked 8-8-8-9-9-9 stripes with colour denim jeans on the body/sleeves. Then continue as described in the text.

GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round as far as the split, then the front/back piece s are finished separately, back and forth. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 104-104-112-112-120-128 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and colour marzipan DROPS Soft Tweed. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm.
Insert 4 marker-threads, without working the stitches and inserting them between 2 stitches as follows.
Count 1 stitch and insert marker-thread-1 here, count 20 stitches and insert marker-thread-2 here, count 32-32-36-36-40-44 stitches and insert marker-thread-3 here, count 20 stitches and insert marker-thread-4 here, there are 32-32-36-36-40-44 stitches between marker-thread-4 and marker-thread-1.

NECKLINE:
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work a neckline with short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit and increase for RAGLAN – read description above, on each side of the first 2 marker-threads (4 stitches increased), turn when you have worked 3 stitches past marker-thread-2.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl and increase for raglan on each side of all 4 marker-threads (8 increased stitches), turn when you have worked 3 stitches past the last marker-thread.
ROW 3: Knit and increase for raglan on each side of all marker threads (8 increased stitches) turn when you have worked 2 stitches past the previous turn.
ROW 4: Purl and increase for raglan on each side of all marker threads (8 increased stitches) turn when you have worked 2 stitches past the previous turn.
ROW 5: Knit and increase for raglan on each side of all marker threads (8 increased stitches) turn when you have worked 2 stitches past the previous turn.
ROW 6: Purl and increase for raglan on each side of all marker threads (8 increased stitches) turn when you have worked 2 stitches past the previous turn.
ROW 7: Knit and increase for raglan on each side of the first 2 marker-threads (4 stitches increased), work back to 1 stitch before marker-thread-1 (beginning of round).

The short rows are finished and you have increased 6 times for raglan at each marker-thread = 152-152-160-160-168-176 stitches. Continue in the round over all stitches.

YOKE:
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and read STRIPES! Continue with stocking stitch and increase for raglan as follows: Increase every 2nd round until you have increased 7-11-12-12-10-10 more times on the body and sleeves = 208-240-256-256-248-256 stitches.
Continue increasing every 2nd round but every second increase is only on the body; i.e. every 2nd round on the body and every 4th round on the sleeves, alternately 4 and 8 stitches increased.
Increase like this 16-16-16-20-26-30 times on the body (8-8-8-10-13-15 times on the sleeves).
You have increased a total of 29-33-34-38-42-46 times on the body and 21-25-26-28-29-31 times on the sleeves (including the increases on the short rows).
After the last increase there are 304-336-352-376-404-436 stitches (90-98-104-112-124-136 stitches between the marker threads on the front/back piece and 62-70-72-76-78-82 stitches between the marker-threads on the sleeves). Continue working without further increases until the piece measures 21-23-24-25-28-31 cm, measured mid-front after the ribbing on the neck.

Divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work to marker-thread-1 and begin the round here, place the first 62-70-72-76-78-82 stitches on a thread without working them (sleeve), cast on 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 90-98-104-112-124-136 stitches (front piece), place the next 62-70-72-76-78-82 stitches on a thread without working them (sleeve), cast on 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 90-98-104-112-124-136 stitches (back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately.
The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
= 200-216-232-248-276-300 stitches. Work the 5-5-6-6-7-7 first cast-on stitches under the sleeve; the round starts here. Continue the stripes and stocking stitch. When the stripes are finished continue with colour marzipan.
When the body measures 17-17-18-19-18-17 cm divide for the split in each side. Place the last 100-108-116-124-138-150 stitches on a thread (back piece).

FRONT PIECE:
Work stocking stitch back and forth with 2 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH on each side – read description above. When the split measures 10 cm, knit 1 row from the right side and increase 10-10-14-14-16-16 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase the edge stitches) = 110-118-130-138-154-166 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib as follows (starting from the wrong side): 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 2 and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
The jumper measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder.

BACK PIECE:
Place the 100-108-116-124-138-150 stitches from the thread back on circular needle size 4.5 mm and work in the same way as the front piece – remember to change to needle size 3.5 mm before working the rib.

SLEEVES:
Place the 62-70-72-76-78-82 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 72-80-84-88-92-96 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker-thread and continue the stripes and stocking stitch in the round. When the stripes are finished continue with colour marzipan. AT THE SAME TIME, when the sleeve measures 4 cm decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3-2-2-1½-1-1 cm a total of 8-11-12-13-14-15 times = 56-58-60-62-64-66 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 31-30-29-29-26-23 cm from the division (there is approx. 11 cm left). Change to colour denim jeans and work 3 rounds of stocking stitch, increasing 20-22-20-22-24-26 stitches evenly on the last round = 76-80-80-84-88-92 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and colour marzipan. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 10 cm. Change to colour denim jeans and work 1 cm more of the rib. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 42-41-40-40-37-34 cm from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Marina Del Rey

Emmanuelle, France

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Comments / Questions (65)

country flag Rosario wrote:

Cuántas madejas se necesita para hacer jersey de la talla L? Es muy bonito

28.03.2024 - 16:13

country flag Zisa wrote:

J’ai craqué sur le modèle mais la laine Soft Tweed n’était pas en quantité suffisante, je l’ai réalisé en Sky et c’est un pur bonheur !

25.02.2024 - 21:12

country flag Beate wrote:

Ich finde die Beschreibung sehr schlecht und komme damit nicht zurecht. Kann ich den Pullover nicht auch von unten nach oben stricken, so habe ich früher auch Pullover gestrickt. Schon bei der Raglanzunahme scheitere ich an Ihrer Beschreibung, wenn dann bräuchte ich einen Film der genau diese Anleitung beschreibt und nicht nur allgemein gehalten ist. Damit kann ich dann auch nichts anfangen, Leider kann ich ja die Wolle nicht mehr zurückschicken da ich sie bereits bezahlt habe

13.02.2024 - 22:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Beate, unter Videos sowie Lektion finden Sie 1 Video und 1 Lektion, wo man zeigt, wie man einen Pullover von oben nach unten strickt, sicher kann das Ihnen helfen; hier finden Sie sonnst Anleitungen von unten nach oben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.02.2024 - 08:15

country flag Pia wrote:

Hej, vill sticka denna tröja i garnet Drops snow garn grupp E. Stickar ganska hårt? Tänkte sticka i st.L/XL .Hur skall jag göra? Lägga upp flera maskor ? Stickar med stickor 8 och 9 mm. Tacksam för svar.

10.02.2024 - 23:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia. Du kan söka på tröjor till dam i garngrupp E, då får du upp många fina mönster som liknar detta som du kan sticka med DROPS Snow. Mvh DROPS Design

15.02.2024 - 13:41

country flag Karolina wrote:

Hej! Mam 2 pytania. 1: linię reglanu mają tworzyć 2 czy 4 oczka? Nie wiem czy mam dodawać oczko na reglan dwa oczka przed/za markerem czy jedno oczko przed/za. 2: w 1. rzędzie skróconym- te trzy oczka, za którymi mam obrócić na drugą stronę liczyć razem z nowo dodanym oczkiem na reglan? Z góry dziękuję za odpowiedź!

07.02.2024 - 10:54

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Karolino, 1. linię reglanu tworzą 2 oczka. Dodajesz oczka na reglany przed/za tymi 2 oczkami. 2. kolejny rząd skrócony jest liczony razem z poprzednio dodanym oczkiem na reglan. Pozdrawiamy i życzymy miłej pracy!

07.02.2024 - 11:36

country flag Beate wrote:

Bei der Maschenprobe habe ich festgestellt, dass ich Nadelstärke 3,5 brauche um auf die 10x10 cm zu kommen. Soll ich dann den ganzen Pullover in 3,5 stricken oder das Halsbündchen in 3? Bei Ihrer Erklärung über die Maschenprobe habe ich das auch das 1. Mal verstanden, wie das mit den Maschen und der Stärke gemeint ist. Danke.

28.01.2024 - 10:41

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Beate, sollten Sie die 20 Maschen x 26 Reihen mit den Nadeln Nr 3 bekommen, dann benutzen Sie kleinere Nadeln für das Bündchen, 1 Halbe Nummer oder 1 Nummer unten: 2 oder 2,5. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.01.2024 - 12:13

country flag Beate wrote:

Nach Durchsicht der Anleitung wurde nur einmal erwähnt, welche Länge der Rundstricknadel ich verwenden soll. Leider danach nicht mehr. Warum fehlt diese Angabe? So komme ich nicht zurecht. Ist das ein Pullover für Anfänger oder Fortgeschrittene?

31.12.2023 - 16:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Beate, benutzen Sie die passende Länge zu der Maschenanzahl, dh am Anfang beginnen Sie mit der kürzeren Nadeln, und wenn es zuviele Maschen sind, stricken Sie mit der längeren. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.01.2024 - 11:11

country flag Hélène wrote:

Je n’arrive pas à 40 mailles au début quand on place les marqueurs! J’arrive à 39 mailles! La quarantième maille est au tout début avant le premier marqueur.

11.12.2023 - 20:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Hélène, en taille XXL, vous devez placer les marqueurs ainsi: 20 mailles, 1 marqueur, 40 mailles, 1 marqueur, 20 mailles, 1 marqueur, 40 mailles = 20+40+20+40=120 mailles. Bon tricot!

12.12.2023 - 08:54

country flag Ywonne Krantz wrote:

Varför står det markör 1,2, 3 och 4. Sedan står det sista markören på varv 2 raglan stickning. Vilken är sista markören nr 4? Väldigt svårförståelig beskrivning. Snart ger jag upp.

18.08.2023 - 15:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ywonne Oppskriften er oversendt til design avd. for en dobbeltsjekk. Men om du på 2.PINNE (vrangen) strikker glattstrikk og øker til raglan på hver side av alle merketrådene (8 masker økt) og så snu når du har strikket 3 masker forbi den 3. merke (ikke siste), vil det stemme. mvh DROP Design

21.08.2023 - 09:16

country flag Fumfula wrote:

Hello, can you tell me what 104-104-112-112-120-128 or 32-32-36-36-40-44 means? do i have to choose one number depending on size?

30.07.2023 - 18:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Fumfula! You can read tutorials at end of every pattern. Please read How to follow DROPS patten and about sizes here. Happy knitting!

30.07.2023 - 19:07