Lithuania

DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 3.85 € /50g

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DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g

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DROPS Needles & Hooks

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.45€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Edeltraut

Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca Bouclé and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted from bottom up in stocking stitch with vents in the sides, double neck edge and edges in rib. Size XS – XXL.

DROPS 237-27
DROPS design: Pattern ab-135
Yarn group C + A or D
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour 0100, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-125-150 g colour 44, moonshine

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 mm: Length: 80 cm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 mm.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
14 stitches in width and 16 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpers Basic Jumpers bottom up double neck oversized round neck sewn in sleeves stocking stitch

DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 3.85 € /50g

Order

DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.45€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarns over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work front and back piece back and forth separately. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle up to sleeve cap, then work the rest of sleeve back and forth. Pick up stitches for a double neck edge worked in the round, fold it double and fasten to wrong side of garment.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 85-93-101-109-119-129 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib as follows:
1 band stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, work A.1 until 2 stitches remain on row, work the first stitch in A.1 so that pattern begins and ends the same, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until rib measures 10 cm.
Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 22-24-27-29-32-34 stitches evenly = 63-69-74-80-87-95 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 6 mm. Work in stocking stitch and cast on 1 stitch at the end of the next 2 rows (= edge stitches for seam) = 65-71-76-82-89-97 stitches.
Then work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm, cast on 1 new stitch in each side edge at the end of the next 2 rows - to use for assembly of sleeves = 67-73-78-84-91-99 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When piece measures 49-51-52-54-56-58 cm, cast off the middle 21-21-22-22-23-23 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue as before, and cast off stitches for neck at the beginning of every row from neck as follows: Cast off 1 stitch 0-1-1-1-1-0 times and 2 stitches 1-1-1-1-1-2 times = 21-23-25-28-31-34 stitches remain on shoulder. Work until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm. Cast off knitting from right side. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work the same way as back piece until piece measures 46-47-49-50-52-53 cm = 67-73-78-84-91-99 stitches on needle. Now slip the middle 11-13-14-14-15-17 stitches on a thread for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off stitches for neck on every row from neck as follows: Cast off 1 stitch 3 times and 2 stitches 2 times = 21-23-25-28-31-34 stitches remain on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 38-40-42-44-44-46 stitches on double pointed needles size 5 mm with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Work rib according to A.1 for 6 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 6 mm, knit 1 round while decreasing 4 stitches evenly on round = 34-36-38-40-40-42 stitches.
Insert a marker thread at beginning of round. Move marker thread upwards when working. Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 8-8-7-11-7-8 cm, increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this approx. on every 3-2½-2½-2-2-2 cm 12-13-13-14-15-15 times in total = 58-62-64-68-70-72 stitches. Continue to work until sleeve measures 43-43-42-41-40-38 cm.
On next round cast off the middle 7 stitches mid under sleeve. Work piece back and forth on needle until finished measurements.
Now decrease for sleeve cap as follows: Cast off 3 stitches at beginning of every row until piece measures approx. 47-47-46-45-44-42 cm. Cast off the remaining stitches.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-off edge. Sew sleeves in body inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on body and inside cast-off edge on sleeves. Sew side seams from armhole and down to rib inside 1 edge stitch in garter(= 10 cm vent in each side).

NECK:
Pick up approx. 74 to 92 stitches (including stitches on thread) on a short circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand of each quality. Number of stitches must be divisible by 2. Work A.1 in the round over all stitches. Continue rib until piece measures 10 cm, cast off with knit over twisted knit and purl over purl. Fold the rib down on inside of garment. Fasten rib to get a double neck edge. To avoid a tight neck edge that sticks out it is important to keep the seam elastic.

Diagram

	= knit twisted from right side, purl twisted from wrong side
	= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (18)

Francesca wrote:

Buongiorno, vorrei seguire questo modello ma con la combo di filati DROPS Nepal + Drops Alpaca Boucle che ho trovato come consiglio negli abbinamenti dei filati. Posso chiedervi aiuto sullo sviluppo del modello o quale altro modello potrebbe andare bene con la coppia dei filati che ho scelto?

17.04.2024 - 19:27

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Francesca, deve seguire dei modelli per il Gruppo filati E (C + C). Buon lavoro!

21.04.2024 - 23:20

Ingrid wrote:

Når jeg strikker med pinne 6 får jeg 13 masker i bredden og 24 masker i høyden. Dette er før jeg har vasket strikkelappen. Jeg ville egentlig strikke strl S, men betyr dette at jeg kan strikke XS i stedet? Eller må jeg gå ned en pinnestørrelse , altså pinne 4 til vrangbord og pinne 5 ellers?

17.04.2024 - 01:24

Hei Ingrid, Det er bedre å gå ned til pinnestørrelsen som gir riktig antall masker og rad på 10 x 10 cm. Da får du fasongen og størrelsen på genseren som passer dine mål. God fornøyelse!

17.04.2024 - 06:42

Andrea wrote:

Aber muss man nicht eigentlich erst 2M abnehmen und dann eine? Sieht sonst so merkwürdig aus. Liebe Grüße

12.04.2024 - 16:18

"Jede Schulter einzeln wie zuvor stricken, dabei am Anfang jeder Reihe, die am Halsrand beginnt, wie folgt abketten: 1 Masche 0-1-1-1-1-0 x und dann 2 Maschen 1-1-1-1-1-2 x = 21-23-25-28-31-34 Maschen für die Schulter übrig." So steht es in der Anleitung. Also erst einmal 1M abnehmen, dann einmal 2M abnehmen. Ich kenn es eigentlich anders herum: erst die mittleren M abketten, dann 1x 2M, dann1x 1M. Liebe Grüße

12.04.2024 - 14:09

Liebe Andrea, oops Größe S ist die 2. Größe hier, ich habe leider die 1. Größe beschrieben, so in S haben Sie 73 Maschen, dann ketten Sie 21 Maschen für den Hals = 52 /2 Schulter = 26 Maschen, dann ketten Sie am Anfang der Reihe vom Hals ab (siehe unten): 1 Masche 1 Mal und 2 Maschen 1 Mal = 26-1-2= 23 Maschen übrig, Entschuldigung für die Verwirrung. Vile Spaß beim Stricken!

12.04.2024 - 15:54

Entschuldigung, ich meine den Halsausschnitt allgemein. Ich habe Größe S gestrickt. Liebe Grüße

12.04.2024 - 09:26

Liebe Andrea, beim Rückenteil werden die mittleren 21 M für den Hals abgekettet = so sind es 67-21=46/2 Schulter = 23 M für jede Schulter; und am Anfang der nächsten Reihe vom Hals (am Anfang einer Hin-Reihe beim linken Schulter / am Anfang einer Rück-Reihe beim rechten Schulter) werden 2 Maschen abgekettet = 21 M übrig. Hoffentlich habe ich jetzt richtig verstanden. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

12.04.2024 - 12:48

Liebe Drops, Kann es sein, dass die Abnahmen für den Ausschnitt falsch herum angegeben sind? Müssten nicht erst 2M pro Teile abgenommen werden und dann jeweils nur eine? Sieht irgendwie merkwürdig aus. Liebe Grüße aus Dortmund

12.04.2024 - 07:52

Liebe Andrea, welchen Ausschnitt meinen Sie hier? Welche Größe stricken Sie? Können Sie uns bitte mehr sagen? So kann man gerne weiterhelfen. Danke für Ihr Verständnis.

12.04.2024 - 08:34

Solange wrote:

Bonsoir je fais le modèle 237-27 mon nombre de mailles est celui de la taille xl. Je voudrais faire la torsade des manches du modèle 250-13 combien de pelotes dois je acheter en plus et combien de mailles dois je faire Merci pour aide précieuse

10.03.2024 - 22:34

Bonjour Solange, notez bien que les deux modèles ont des tensions, une construction et des textures différentes, dans le 250-13 on tricote des emmanchures raglans avec la torsade tout du long de la manche (du col au poignet), vous obtiendrez un effet différent sur ce modèle avec des manches montées. N'hésitez pas à demander conseil à votre magasin pour ce qui est des quantités, on pourra vous conseiller et vous assister si besoin. Bon tricot!

11.03.2024 - 09:12

Romy wrote:

Beste, Bij materiaal staan de DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ (kleur 0100, naturel) en de DROPS KID-SILK (kleur 44, maneschijn) bij. Alleen ik zie nergens in het patroon (of ik kijk er overheen) waar dat je de kleuren moet wisselen etc. Zou iemand aan mij kunnen uitleggen hoe dat zit? Alvast bedankt! :) Met vriendelijke groet, Romy

28.11.2023 - 19:30

Dag Romy,

Je breit het hele werkstuk met 2 draden, dus met 1 draad van elke kwaliteit. Je hoeft dus nergens te wisselen.

29.11.2023 - 09:30

Veerle wrote:

Beste, kan iemand mij antwoord geven op mijn eerder geposte vraag (23.2.2.23) ? bedankt !

25.03.2023 - 11:52

Dag Veerle,

Je begint direct met het minderen voor de mouwkop. Wat er bedoeld wordt is dat je vanaf nu heen en weer breit (in plaats van in de rondte) tot het einde.

28.03.2023 - 21:31

Een vraag bij het breien van de mouwen : na het afkanten van de 7 steken dient verder heen en weer gebreid te worden "tot de gewenste afmetingen" . Daarna moet gestart worden met de mindering voor de mouwkop. Mijn vraag is : wat wordt bedoeld met "tot de gewenste afmetingen" ? Of maw, vanaf welke hoogte dient gestart te worden met de mindering voor de mouwkop ? Dat is me niet duidelijk. Bedankt voor de toelichting.

23.02.2023 - 21:07

Edeltraut

Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca Bouclé and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted from bottom up in stocking stitch with vents in the sides, double neck edge and edges in rib. Size XS – XXL.

Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to increase/decrease evenly!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to increase stitches at the end of a row

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 237-27

Comments / Questions (18)

Edeltraut

Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca Bouclé and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted from bottom up in stocking stitch with vents in the sides, double neck edge and edges in rib. Size XS – XXL.

Diagram explanations

Do you need help with this pattern?

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	DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour 80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide	3.85 € /50g	Order
	DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix 80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide	3.85 € /50g	Order

	DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour 80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide 3.85 € /50g Order
	DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix 80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide 3.85 € /50g Order