DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Candy Harvest

Knitted sweater in DROPS Fabel. The piece is worked top down with raglan and double neck. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 237-39
DROPS Design: Pattern fa-508
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-94-100-112-128-140 cm = 33"-37"-39 3/8"-44"-50 3/8"-55"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-350-400-450-450 g color 920, fantasy land

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of all the marker-stitches, in each transition between body and sleeves. Increase by making 1 yarn over which is worked twisted on the next round to avoid holes. The new stitches are then worked in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (sleeves):
Start 2 stitches before the marker-stitch, knit 2 twisted together, knit 1 (= marker-stitch), knit 2 together (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle, changing to double pointed needles when necessary as you decrease stitches.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 120-136-140-152-164-168 stitches with DROPS Fabel over 2 circular needles size 3 MM = US 2.5 and 3.5 MM = US 4 held together.
Remove the needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 keeping the stitches on the needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 (this gives an elastic cast-on edge). Knit 1 round then work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 12 cm = 4 3/4". Fold the rib double to the inside and knit the next round, knitting every 2nd stitch together with its corresponding stitch on the cast-on edge, giving you a double neck.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4.

Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

Insert 4 markers without working the stitches; these are used when increasing for raglan:
Count 20-24-24-27-30-31 stitches (half back piece), insert marker-1 in the next stitch, count 18-18-20-20-20-20 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-2 in the next stitch, count 40-48-48-54-60-62 stitches (front piece), insert marker-3 in the next stitch, count 18-18-20-20-20-20 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-4 in the next stitch, there are 20-24-24-27-30-31 stitches left after the last marker (half back piece). Cut the strand.

NECK-LINE:
Now work a neck-line with short rows:
Start from the right side, 3 stitches before marker-3 (front left-hand side of the neck when garment is worn). Work stockinette stitch and increase for RAGLAN – read description above, until you are 3 stitches past marker-2 (front right-hand side of neck).
Turn, tighten the strand and work back to 7 stitches past marker-3.
Turn, tighten the strand and work back to 7 stitches past marker-2 – remember to increase for raglan.
Turn, tighten the strand and work back to 11 stitches past marker-3.
Turn, tighten the strand and work back to 11 stitches past marker-2 - remember to increase for raglan.
Turn, tighten the strand and work back to 3 stitches past marker-3. Cut the strand.

YOKE:
Start mid-back and continue to increase for raglan every 2nd round a total of 26-28-32-36-42-48 times (including the increases on the short rows) = 328-360-396-440-500-552 stitches.

Continue working without further increases until the yoke measures 21-23-25-26-28-30 cm = 8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4" mid-front (measured after the neck). Divide the yoke for the body and sleeves as follows:

Work the first 47-53-57-64-73-80 stitches (half back piece), place the next 70-74-84-92-104-116 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 7 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 94-106-114-128-146-160 stitches (front piece), place the next 70-74-84-92-104-116 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 7 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the remaining 47-53-57-64-73-80 stitches (half back piece).

The body and sleeves are finished separately. Remove the markers. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
= 202-226-242-270-306-334 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch in the round for a further 28 cm = 11". Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Knit 1 round and increase 18-22-22-26-30-34 stitches evenly spaced = 220-248-264-296-336-368 stitches. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 3 cm = 1 1/8". Bind off. The sweater measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 70-74-84-92-104-116 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 77-81-91-99-111-123 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle stitch of the 7 new stitches under the sleeve.
Continue in the round with stockinette stitch for 2 cm = 3/4". Now decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-4-2½-2-1½-1 cm = 1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1"-3/4"-1/2"-3/8" a total of 9-9-13-16-21-24 times = 59-63-65-67-69-75 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 37-36-35-34-33-31 cm = 14 1/2"-14 1/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/8"-13"-12 1/4" from the division. Change to double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5, knit 1 round and increase 5-5-7-5-7-9 stitches evenly on this round = 64-68-72-72-76-84 stitches. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 6 cm = 2 3/8". Bind off. The sleeve measures approx. 43-42-41-40-39-37 cm = 17"-16 1/2"-16 1/8"-15 3/4"-15 1/4"-14 1/2". Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Susanne wrote:

Er det rigtigt at der skal strikkes 25 cm før der deles til ærmer, for og bag ? Synes det er langt.

21.02.2024 - 14:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Susanne, du finder målene i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften (mål gerne en bluse som du synes om at have på og vælg den størrelse i måleskitsen med de mål som passer dig)

22.02.2024 - 11:47

country flag Tina Albertsen wrote:

Jeg er igang med denne opskrift, men forstår ikke udtagningen til raglan helt. Hvorfor tages der kun ud på forkortede pinde FORAN på arbejdet, altså fra mærke 3 til mærke 2? Som jeg forstår opskriften bliver der en forskel på for og bag på arbejdet. Og så vil jeg høre om det skal forstås som at der begyndes 3 masker EFTER mærke 3 (altså mærkemaske plus 3 masker) eller 3. maske efter mærkemaske (altså mærkemaske plus 2 masker)?

01.02.2024 - 14:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Tina. 1) Tråden er klippet og du starter fra 3 masker før masken med 3. merket i. Dvs i venstre side av halsen foran dersom du tenker at du har plagget på. Du starter 3 masker før masken med 3. merket, så strikker du over 3. merke, så over 4. merke, så over 1. merke og så 3 masker forbi 2. merke, snu arbeidet. Strikk tilbake fra vrangen, først over 2. merke, så 1. merke, så 4. merke og så 7 masker forbi 3. merke. Fortsett som forklart i oppskriften. 2) Du starter 3 masker etter masken med 3. merket i. mvh DROPS Design

12.02.2024 - 09:26

country flag Anita wrote:

Kan 237-39 candy harvest strikkes uden at man bruger vendepinde?

15.12.2023 - 16:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anita. Ved å strikke vendingene vil du få en bedre passform, men du kan kutte ut vendigene og strikke for -og bakstykket likt. Du vil da kanskje føle at halsen kommer litt for mye opp i front. mvh DROPS Design

18.12.2023 - 07:24

country flag Daria wrote:

A quanto ammontano le maglie aumentate per il raglan nella parte lavorata a ferri accorciati?

27.11.2023 - 18:15

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Daria, deve aumentare per il raglan dove indicato, nei ferri accorciati. Buon lavoro!

30.11.2023 - 22:50

country flag Janne wrote:

Når 3. merke er "venstre side av halsen foran" og 2. merke er "høyre side av halsen foran" og man skal strikke forkortede rader fram og tilbake mellom disse to, blir ikke forhøyningen foran da?? Jeg er svært forvirret her og håper dere kan oppklare så jeg kommer videre.

20.10.2023 - 14:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Janne, Forkortede pinner er mellom disse merkene, men du strikker fra retten og begynner på venstre siden av halsen (3 masker før merke 3), rundt bakstykke til venstre siden av halsen (3 masker forbi merke 2). God fornøyelse!

23.10.2023 - 07:38

country flag Janne wrote:

Er det riktig at de forkortede radene strikkes foran slik at forstykket blir høyere enn bakstykket? Virker merkelig for meg. Kan det være riktig eller har jeg misforstått totalt?

20.10.2023 - 13:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Janne, hvis du følger opskriften får du de forkortede rader på bagstykket :)

24.10.2023 - 08:29

country flag Pia Majbrit Hjort wrote:

Drops 237-37 Tak for jeres mange super skønne :-) Dog må jeg bare sige at det ikke altid er nemt af læse dem. Tror ikke helt jeg forstår hvorfor I indsætter henvisninger til "raglan", "halsudskæring" og lign. og udelader det i opskriften. Hele tiden skal vi op at læse og "sætte ind". Personligt vil jeg meget hellere at det står løbende i opskriften hvad jeg skal. I lægger så mange gode videoer ind. så hvis man er i tvivl er det nemt at finde Venlig hilsen Pia

13.05.2023 - 11:45

country flag Helle Pedersen wrote:

Hej! Hvorfor skal der laves halsudskæring, når der er strikket dobbelt halskant? Hvordan skal man strikke halsudskæring? Hvordan kommer man videre fra den dobbelte halskant til halsudskæringen? Ny rundpind eller hvordan?

12.02.2023 - 22:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Helle. 1) Det strikkes en halsringning slik at det blir en forhøyning bak / passformen blir bedre. Man kan strikke en halsringning uansett om det er en enkel eller dobbelt halskant. 2) Du strikker frem og tilbake over det maskeantallet det står i oppskriften under HALSUDSKÆRING. 3) Når du har strikket halskanten og satt 4 merker i arbeidet klipper du tråden. Du starter et nytt sted med ny tråd slik det er beskrevet i oppskriften (Start fra retten, 3 masker før 3.merke). Ta gjerne en titt på hjelpevideoen: Hvordan tages der ud til raglan og strikkes forkortede pinde samtidigt mvh DROPS Design

13.02.2023 - 14:10

country flag Gigi wrote:

Bonjour, lorsque l'on doit continuer sans augmentations jusqu'à ce que l'empiècement mesure (pour ma part 25cm) au milieu du devant (mesurer après le col). Je ne comprends pas "mesurer après le col" si le tricot est bien avancé et que l'on regarde en arrière faut-il mesurer tout au début du col (tout en haut du tricot) ou après le col lorsqu'il est fait ? Merci

11.02.2023 - 16:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gigi, on mesure après le col, autrement dit après les côtes, à partir de la partie tricotée en jersey, pensez à bien mesurer au niveau du milieu du devant (l'ouvrage sera plus long au milieu du dos à cause des rangs raccourcis de l'encolure). Bon tricot!

13.02.2023 - 09:07

country flag Sylvie Lachance wrote:

J'aimerais savoir si la laine Fabel est assez douce pour un pull porté sur la peau. Merci!

29.11.2022 - 01:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lachance, la sensibilité est une question très personnelle - si vous êtes plutôt sensible, DROPS Baby Merino peut être une bonne alternative. N'hésitez pas à contacter votre magasin DROPS pour toute assistance au choix d'une laine, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

29.11.2022 - 10:16