DROPS Puna
DROPS Puna
 100% Alpaca
from 3.55 € /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 57.20€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
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Cracked Walnuts Vest

Knitted vest in DROPS Kid-Silk and DROPS Puna / DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted bottom up with textured pattern, ridges, cables and rib. Size XS – XXL.

DROPS 237-10
DROPS design: Pattern pu-065
Yarn group A and B
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
Colour/quality used on picture:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 17, nougat
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-200 g colour 42, almond

Or use:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 07, light brown
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-200 g colour no 12, beige

DROPS BUTTON NO 630: 4-4-4-4-5-5 pieces

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm: Length: 80 cm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length: 80 cm
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Vests Open Front Vests Classic Texturesbottom up cable garter stitch honeycomb relief rib shawl collar
DROPS Puna
DROPS Puna
 100% Alpaca
from 3.55 € /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 57.20€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Comments (46)

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.10. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

KNIT TOGETHER:
FROM RIGHT SIDE: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
FROM WRONG SIDE: Purl 2 together.

STOCKING STITCH:
When working from wrong side, purl and when working from right side, knit.

BUTTONHOLES (bottom up):
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over to make hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
XS: 6, 14, 22 and 30 cm
S: 6, 14, 22 and 30 cm
M: 6, 14, 23 and 32 cm
L: 7, 16, 25 and 34 cm
XL: 6, 14, 22, 29 and 36 cm.
XXL: 6, 14, 22, 29 and 36 cm.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF PIECE:
Work front and back piece bottom up, back and forth in parts.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 98-110-110-122-134-146 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side.
Work next row as follows from right side:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, work A.1 until 1 stitch remain, 1 stitch in garter stitch.
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.2 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 114-128-128-142-156-170 stitches on needle. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm.
Work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.3 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Repeat A.3 vertically until piece measures 16-17-19-19-21-22 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.4 until 1 stitch remains and decrease at the same time 27-36-36-40-44-48 stitches evenly, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 87-92-92-102-112-122 stitches.
When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.5 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Repeat A.5 vertically. When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm, cast on 6 new stitches at the end of the next 2 rows = 99-104-104-114-124-134 stitches. Work the new stitches in garter stitch until finished measurements.
Continue pattern like this until piece measures 33-35-36-38-39-41 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 stitches in garter stitch, work A.6 until 7 stitches remain, 7 stitches in garter stitch.
When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 150-158-158-174-190-206 stitches on needle.
Work pattern as follows:
7 stitches in garter stitch, work A.7 until 7 stitches remain, 7 stitches in garter stitch.
Work A.7 3 times in total vertically. Piece measures approx. 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm.
Work pattern as follows:
7 stitches in garter stitch, work A.8 until 7 stitches remain and decrease at the same time 51-54-54-60-66-72 stitches evenly, 7 stitches in garter stitch = 99-104-104-114-124-134 stitches.
When A.8 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.8a vertically until finished measurements.

When piece measures 49-51-53-55-57-59 cm, cast off the middle 13-14-16-18-20-20
stitches and finish each shoulder (43-45-44-48-52-57 stitches) separately. On next row from neck cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of row = 42-44-43-47-51-56 stitches. On next row from the neck cast off the first 7 stitches = 35-37-36-40-44-49 stitches.

Then work diagonal shoulder, begin on next row from the neck as follows:
* Work pattern as before until 8-9-9-10-11-12 stitches remain, turn and work back *, work from *-* 3 times in total. I.e. work 8-9-9-10-11-12 stitches less on every row from the neck.
On last row towards neck, cast on 2 new stitches at the end of row = 37-39-38-42-46-51 stitches.
Now work and cast off with an edge over shoulder stitches.
Work stitches cast on with shoulder stitches as follows:
Work * 1 stitch in STOCKING STITCH – read explanation above, work next stitch together with first/next stitch from shoulder – read KNIT TOGETHER, pass the 2 stitches back on the needle they came from with strand on wrong side of piece, make sure not to tighten yarn too much *, work from *-* until all stitches from shoulder have been worked together with the 2 new stitches that were cast on. Cast off the 2 stitches. Work the other shoulder the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 61-67-67-73-79-85 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand of each quality. Purl until 7 stitches remain, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
On next row from right side work pattern as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.9, purl 1-0-0-1-0-1, knit 1-0-0-1-0-1, work A.1 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern from right side as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9 as before, work A.2 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Decrease for BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 70-77-77-84-91-98 stitches on needle.
Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work pattern as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a, make 1 yarn over (this is done so that the pattern is the same mid front on both front pieces), work A.3 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 71-78-78-85-92-99 stitches. Knit yarn over twisted on next row, then purl from right side and knit from wrong side.
Repeat A.3 vertically until piece measures 16-17-19-19-21-22 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a as before, work A.4 until 1 stitch remains and decrease at the same time 15-17-17-19-21-23 stitches evenly, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 56-61-61-66-71-76 stitches. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a as before, work A.5 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Repeat A.5 vertically.
When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm, cast on 6 new stitches at the end of next row from right side = 62-67-67-72-77-82 stitches. Work the new stitches in garter stitch until finished measurements.
Continue pattern like this until piece measures 33-35-36-38-39-41 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a as before, work A.6 until 7 stitches remain, 7 stitches in garter stitch.
When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 83-91-91-99-107-115 stitches on needle.
Work pattern as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a as before, work A.7 until 7 stitches remain, 7 stitches in garter stitch.
Work A.7 3 times in total vertically. Piece measures approx. 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm.
Work pattern as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a as before, work A.8 until 7 stitches remain and decrease at the same time 21-24-24-27-30-33 stitches evenly, 7 stitches in garter stitch = 62-67-67-72-77-82 stitches.
When A.8 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.8a vertically until finished measurements.
When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, cast off the first 7 stitches on next row from wrong side = 55-60-60-65-70-75 stitches. Then work diagonal shoulder, begin on next row from the neck as follows:
* Work pattern as before until 8-9-9-10-11-12 stitches remain, turn and work back *, work from *-* 3 times in total. I.e. work 8-9-9-10-11-12 stitches less on every row from the neck.
On last row towards the neck work until 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches remain, slip the last 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches on a thread for shawl collar and cast on 2 new stitches on needle = 37-39-38-42-46-51 stitches.

Now work and cast off with an edge over shoulder stitches.
Work stitches cast on with shoulder stitches as follows:
Work * 1 stitch in stocking stitch, work next stitch together with first/next stitch from shoulder – remember KNIT TOGETHER, pass the 2 stitches back on the needle they came from with strand on wrong side of piece, make sure not to tighten yarn too much *, work from *-* until all stitches from shoulder have been worked together with the 2 new stitches that were cast on. Cast off the 2 stitches.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Slip the 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches from stitch holder on circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work as follows, begin from wrong side: 0-2-3-3-5-5 stitches in garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl until 7 stitches remain, 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this (i.e. cables are done) and work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work the first 16-19-20-21-22-22 stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 16-19-20-21-22-22 stitches.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work over all stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work over all stitches.
Work 1st to 4th row until shawl collar measures approx. 7-8-8-9-9-9 cm on the shortest. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 61-67-67-73-79-85 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand of each quality. Work 7 band stitches in garter stitch, purl the rest of row.
On next row from right side work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until 20-18-18-20-18-20 stitches remain, knit 1-0-0-1-0-1, purl 1-0-0-1-0-1, A.10, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.

When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern from right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.2 until 18 stitches remain, A.10 as before, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 70-77-77-84-91-98 stitches on needle.
Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.3 until 20 stitches remain, A.10a, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat A.3 vertically until piece measures 16-17-19-19-21-22 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.4 until 20 stitches remain and decrease at the same time 14-16-16-18-20-22 stitches evenly, A.10a as before, 7 band stitches in garter stitch = 56-61-61-66-71-76 stitches.
When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.5 until 20 stitches remain, A.10a as before, 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Repeat A.5 vertically.
When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm, cast on 6 new stitches at the end of next row from wrong side = 62-67-67-72-77-82 stitches. Work the new stitches in garter stitch until finished measurements.
Continue pattern like this until piece measures 33-35-36-38-39-41 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 stitches in garter stitch, work A.6 until 20 stitches remain, A.10a as before, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 83-91-91-99-107-115 stitches on needle.
Work pattern as follows:
7 stitches in garter stitch, work A.7 until 20 stitches remain, A.10a as before, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
Work A.7 3 times in total vertically. Piece measures approx. 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm.
Work pattern as follows:
7 stitches in garter stitch, work A.8 until 20 stitches remain and decrease at the same time 21-24-24-27-30-33 stitches evenly, A.10a as before, 7 band stitches in garter stitch = 62-67-67-72-77-82 stitches.
When A.8 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.8a vertically until finished measurements.
When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, cast off the first 7 stitches on next row from right side = 55-60-60-65-70-75 stitches. Then work diagonal shoulder, begin on next row from the neck as follows:
* Work pattern as before until 8-9-9-10-11-12 stitches remain, turn and work back *, work from *-* 3 times in total. I.e. work 8-9-9-10-11-12 stitches less on every turn from the neck.
On last row towards the neck work until 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches remain, slip the last 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches on a thread for shawl collar and cast on 2 new stitches on needle = 37-39-38-42-46-51 stitches.

Now work and cast off with an edge over shoulder stitches.
Work stitches cast on with shoulder stitches as follows:
Work * 1 stitch in stocking stitch, work next stitch together with first/next stitch from shoulder – remember KNIT TOGETHER, pass the 2 stitches back on the needle they came from with strand on wrong side of piece, make sure not to tighten yarn too much *, work from *-* until all stitches from shoulder have been worked together with the 2 new stitches that were cast on. Cast off the 2 stitches.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Slip the 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches from stitch holder on circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work as follows, begin from right side: 0-2-3-3-5-5 stitches in garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl until until 7 stitches remain, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue like this (i.e. cables are done) and work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work the first 16-19-20-21-22-22 stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 2 (= right side): Work 16-19-20-21-22-22 stitches.
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Work over all stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= right side): Work over all stitches.
Work 1st to 4th row until shawl collar measures approx. 7-8-8-9-9-9 cm on the shortest. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside 1 stitch on i-cord edge. Sew stitches in garter stitch together. Sew shawl collar tog mid back and sew on to neck line at the back of neck. Sew side seams inside 1 edge stitch. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 06.01.2023
LEFT FRONT PIECE / SHAWL COLLAR:
Slip the 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches from stitch holder on circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work as follows, begin from right side: 0-2-3-3-5-5 stitches in garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl until until 7 stitches remain, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
Updated online: 23.02.2024
The pattern is updated. Correction on neck on the back piece.
Updated online: 05.04.2024
The yarn amount in Kid-Silk is updated in size XXXL.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next row
diagram
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (46)

country flag Innocenti wrote:

Bonjour dans les explications que vous m avez données, je dois laisser en attente les 7 mailles côté épaule alors que les explications du tricot demandent de les rabattre. Je m y perds un peu merci

10.04.2024 - 16:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Innocenti, vous rabattez en début de rang à partir de l'encolure 1 x 1 m et 1 x 7 m et vous mettez en attente en début de rang à partir de l'épaule 4 x 9 mailles, vous montez ensuite 2 mailles en fin de rang vers l'encolure et rabattez les mailles de l'épaule avec la technique du I-cord. Bon tricot!

11.04.2024 - 07:00

country flag Innocenti wrote:

Bonjour est ce que je peux avoir des éclaircissements pour tricoter le biais de l épaule pour le dos ? A quoi correspondent les * ? Il est noté de tricoter 9 mailles en moins pour la taille M puis de monter 2 mailles , il reste ensuite 38 mailles. Comment est ce possible puisqu avant de tricoter le biais de l encolure il reste 36 mailles ? Merci

08.04.2024 - 22:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Innocenti, pour former le biais de l'épaule, on va mettre en attente les mailles à la fin du rang côté emmanchure, autrement dit, en commençant par 1 rang à partir de l'encolure, tricotez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 9 mailles et mettez ces mailles en attente, tournez et tricotez le rang retour, répétez ces 2 rangs encore 2 fois = vous avez 27 mailles en attente côté emmanchure. Lorsque vous avez tricoté le dernier de ces 6 rangs, montez 2 mailles à la fin de ce rang = côté encolure et rabattez les mailles maintenant façon I-cord comme ici. Bon tricot!

09.04.2024 - 08:57

country flag Annemarie Demir wrote:

Ich komme mit der Anleitung für den Schalkragen nicht zurecht. Wozu müssen 5 Maschen kraus rechts gestrickt werden, ich habe doch eine Blende von 7 Maschen kraus rechts. Ich stricke gerade das linke Vorderteil. Wie breit ist der Schalkragen. Ich hoffe, dass sie mein Problem verstehen und mir helfen können. Mit freundlichen Grüßen freundlichen Grüßen Annemarie Demir

23.03.2024 - 18:02

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Emir, beim linken Vorderteil ist die 1. Reihe eine Hin-Reihe, so beginnt man mit 0 bis 5 Maschen Krausrechts aber endet man mit den 7 Blenden-Maschen, die Blenden-Maschen werden so am Ende den Hin-Reihen und am Anfang den Rück-Reihen gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

02.04.2024 - 09:00

country flag Aly De Boer wrote:

Het model op de foto, draagt die een sjaalkraag? Als ik het goed bekijk zit eralleen die 7 st ribbels langs de hals en voorpanden. Ik ben benieuwd, ik wil nl een dubbel gebreide boord/knoopsgatenboord er langs breien, ik ga er van uit datdat wel lukt

05.03.2024 - 07:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Aly,

Er wordt inderdaad een 'sjaalkraag' gemaakt over 20 tot 26 steken (afhankelijk van je maat) op de voorpanden en deze wordt op het einde midden achter tegen elkaar genaaid en dan aan de halslijn op het achterpand.

05.03.2024 - 22:38

country flag Jannicke Oset wrote:

Er det mulig å få hjelp til å regne ut hvor mange gram jeg trenger hvis jeg vil strikke med 1 tråd i Drops air? Str Xxl Takknemlig for hjelp!

29.02.2024 - 14:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jannicke. Til oppskriften i str. XXL trenger du 700 gram DROPS Puna = 14 nøster. 1 nøste = 50 gram = 110 løpelengde / meter. 14 nøster x 110 meter = 1540 meter. Altså du trenger 1540 meter av DROPS Air (som kommer i 50 gram nøster og har en løpelengde på 150 meter). 1540 meter dele på 150 (Airs løpelengde) = 10,2 nøster = 11 nøster av DROPS Air. mvh DROPS Design

04.03.2024 - 13:25

country flag Denise wrote:

Pouvez vous me dire combien de rangs dans le shéma A-1 et m'envoyer une photo du dos du modèle svp, merci de votre aide

31.01.2024 - 01:21

country flag Dini Venhuizen wrote:

Hallo, Ik ben nu bij het rechter voorpand en ik begrijp het niet. Er staat: 7 voorbiessteken in ribbelsteek, brei A9, (..)brei A1 tot er 1 steek over is. Moet je dan 4x A9 breien en 1x A1 voor maat M? Zo ja, dan betekent het dat er 4x 1 steek recht is aan het eind van telpatroon A9. Klopt dat?

27.01.2024 - 22:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Dini,

Je breit de voorbiessteken dan brei je 1 x A.9 in de breedte, dan herhaal je A.1 steeds in de breedte tot er 1 steek over is. (In A.9 brei je op een gegeven moment de kabel die vlak naast de biessteken komt.)

28.01.2024 - 18:35

country flag Michelle wrote:

Je reviens sur la quantité de fil, il me reste également 42 gr de kid silk, j'ai l'habitude d'avoir du fil en plus avec vos modèles, jusqu'à 100 gr ça ne me choque pas, mais 300 gr c'est énorme. Le fait que baby merino soit très élastique est peut-être une explication.....

25.01.2024 - 15:46

country flag Michelle wrote:

Merci pour vos réponses, Pour la quantité de fil, oui tout est correct et correspond, tension et dimensions. Pour les mailles à rabattre, ce n'est pas aussi clair que pour les devants.... Précisez peut-être que ce sont les mailles au point mousse côté manche.

25.01.2024 - 09:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Michelle, après vérification, les 650 g Merino Extra Fine font 1365 mètres, et les 175 g Kid-Silk 1470 m, donc vous devriez avoir suffisamment des 2 laines vu qu'elles ont approximativement le même métrage. Votre proposition a été transmise à nos stylises. Bonne continuation!

25.01.2024 - 10:21

country flag Michelle wrote:

J'ai tricoté le modèle en taille xl avec merino extra fine et kid silk, et il me reste plus de 300 gr de merino extra fine ! Ça fait beaucoup ! près de la moitié de ce qui est indiqué sur le patron...

24.01.2024 - 20:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Michelle, merci pour votre retour, avez-vous bien la bonne tension à la fois en hauteur et en largeur? Je transmets votre commentaire à nos stylistes. Bonne continuation!

25.01.2024 - 09:11

Cracked Walnuts Vest



Knitted vest in DROPS Kid-Silk and DROPS Puna / DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted bottom up with textured pattern, ridges, cables and rib. Size XS – XXL.

DROPS 237-10
DROPS design: Pattern pu-065
Yarn group A and B
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
Colour/quality used on picture:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 17, nougat
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-200 g colour 42, almond

Or use:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 07, light brown
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-200 g colour no 12, beige

DROPS BUTTON NO 630: 4-4-4-4-5-5 pieces

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm: Length: 80 cm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length: 80 cm
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.10. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

KNIT TOGETHER:
FROM RIGHT SIDE: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
FROM WRONG SIDE: Purl 2 together.

STOCKING STITCH:
When working from wrong side, purl and when working from right side, knit.

BUTTONHOLES (bottom up):
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over to make hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
XS: 6, 14, 22 and 30 cm
S: 6, 14, 22 and 30 cm
M: 6, 14, 23 and 32 cm
L: 7, 16, 25 and 34 cm
XL: 6, 14, 22, 29 and 36 cm.
XXL: 6, 14, 22, 29 and 36 cm.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF PIECE:
Work front and back piece bottom up, back and forth in parts.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 98-110-110-122-134-146 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side.
Work next row as follows from right side:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, work A.1 until 1 stitch remain, 1 stitch in garter stitch.
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.2 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 114-128-128-142-156-170 stitches on needle. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm.
Work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.3 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Repeat A.3 vertically until piece measures 16-17-19-19-21-22 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.4 until 1 stitch remains and decrease at the same time 27-36-36-40-44-48 stitches evenly, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 87-92-92-102-112-122 stitches.
When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.5 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Repeat A.5 vertically. When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm, cast on 6 new stitches at the end of the next 2 rows = 99-104-104-114-124-134 stitches. Work the new stitches in garter stitch until finished measurements.
Continue pattern like this until piece measures 33-35-36-38-39-41 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 stitches in garter stitch, work A.6 until 7 stitches remain, 7 stitches in garter stitch.
When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 150-158-158-174-190-206 stitches on needle.
Work pattern as follows:
7 stitches in garter stitch, work A.7 until 7 stitches remain, 7 stitches in garter stitch.
Work A.7 3 times in total vertically. Piece measures approx. 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm.
Work pattern as follows:
7 stitches in garter stitch, work A.8 until 7 stitches remain and decrease at the same time 51-54-54-60-66-72 stitches evenly, 7 stitches in garter stitch = 99-104-104-114-124-134 stitches.
When A.8 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.8a vertically until finished measurements.

When piece measures 49-51-53-55-57-59 cm, cast off the middle 13-14-16-18-20-20
stitches and finish each shoulder (43-45-44-48-52-57 stitches) separately. On next row from neck cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of row = 42-44-43-47-51-56 stitches. On next row from the neck cast off the first 7 stitches = 35-37-36-40-44-49 stitches.

Then work diagonal shoulder, begin on next row from the neck as follows:
* Work pattern as before until 8-9-9-10-11-12 stitches remain, turn and work back *, work from *-* 3 times in total. I.e. work 8-9-9-10-11-12 stitches less on every row from the neck.
On last row towards neck, cast on 2 new stitches at the end of row = 37-39-38-42-46-51 stitches.
Now work and cast off with an edge over shoulder stitches.
Work stitches cast on with shoulder stitches as follows:
Work * 1 stitch in STOCKING STITCH – read explanation above, work next stitch together with first/next stitch from shoulder – read KNIT TOGETHER, pass the 2 stitches back on the needle they came from with strand on wrong side of piece, make sure not to tighten yarn too much *, work from *-* until all stitches from shoulder have been worked together with the 2 new stitches that were cast on. Cast off the 2 stitches. Work the other shoulder the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 61-67-67-73-79-85 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand of each quality. Purl until 7 stitches remain, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
On next row from right side work pattern as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.9, purl 1-0-0-1-0-1, knit 1-0-0-1-0-1, work A.1 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern from right side as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9 as before, work A.2 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Decrease for BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 70-77-77-84-91-98 stitches on needle.
Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work pattern as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a, make 1 yarn over (this is done so that the pattern is the same mid front on both front pieces), work A.3 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 71-78-78-85-92-99 stitches. Knit yarn over twisted on next row, then purl from right side and knit from wrong side.
Repeat A.3 vertically until piece measures 16-17-19-19-21-22 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a as before, work A.4 until 1 stitch remains and decrease at the same time 15-17-17-19-21-23 stitches evenly, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 56-61-61-66-71-76 stitches. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a as before, work A.5 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Repeat A.5 vertically.
When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm, cast on 6 new stitches at the end of next row from right side = 62-67-67-72-77-82 stitches. Work the new stitches in garter stitch until finished measurements.
Continue pattern like this until piece measures 33-35-36-38-39-41 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a as before, work A.6 until 7 stitches remain, 7 stitches in garter stitch.
When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 83-91-91-99-107-115 stitches on needle.
Work pattern as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a as before, work A.7 until 7 stitches remain, 7 stitches in garter stitch.
Work A.7 3 times in total vertically. Piece measures approx. 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm.
Work pattern as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a as before, work A.8 until 7 stitches remain and decrease at the same time 21-24-24-27-30-33 stitches evenly, 7 stitches in garter stitch = 62-67-67-72-77-82 stitches.
When A.8 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.8a vertically until finished measurements.
When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, cast off the first 7 stitches on next row from wrong side = 55-60-60-65-70-75 stitches. Then work diagonal shoulder, begin on next row from the neck as follows:
* Work pattern as before until 8-9-9-10-11-12 stitches remain, turn and work back *, work from *-* 3 times in total. I.e. work 8-9-9-10-11-12 stitches less on every row from the neck.
On last row towards the neck work until 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches remain, slip the last 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches on a thread for shawl collar and cast on 2 new stitches on needle = 37-39-38-42-46-51 stitches.

Now work and cast off with an edge over shoulder stitches.
Work stitches cast on with shoulder stitches as follows:
Work * 1 stitch in stocking stitch, work next stitch together with first/next stitch from shoulder – remember KNIT TOGETHER, pass the 2 stitches back on the needle they came from with strand on wrong side of piece, make sure not to tighten yarn too much *, work from *-* until all stitches from shoulder have been worked together with the 2 new stitches that were cast on. Cast off the 2 stitches.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Slip the 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches from stitch holder on circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work as follows, begin from wrong side: 0-2-3-3-5-5 stitches in garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl until 7 stitches remain, 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this (i.e. cables are done) and work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work the first 16-19-20-21-22-22 stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 16-19-20-21-22-22 stitches.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work over all stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work over all stitches.
Work 1st to 4th row until shawl collar measures approx. 7-8-8-9-9-9 cm on the shortest. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 61-67-67-73-79-85 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand of each quality. Work 7 band stitches in garter stitch, purl the rest of row.
On next row from right side work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until 20-18-18-20-18-20 stitches remain, knit 1-0-0-1-0-1, purl 1-0-0-1-0-1, A.10, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.

When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern from right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.2 until 18 stitches remain, A.10 as before, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 70-77-77-84-91-98 stitches on needle.
Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.3 until 20 stitches remain, A.10a, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat A.3 vertically until piece measures 16-17-19-19-21-22 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.4 until 20 stitches remain and decrease at the same time 14-16-16-18-20-22 stitches evenly, A.10a as before, 7 band stitches in garter stitch = 56-61-61-66-71-76 stitches.
When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.5 until 20 stitches remain, A.10a as before, 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Repeat A.5 vertically.
When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm, cast on 6 new stitches at the end of next row from wrong side = 62-67-67-72-77-82 stitches. Work the new stitches in garter stitch until finished measurements.
Continue pattern like this until piece measures 33-35-36-38-39-41 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 stitches in garter stitch, work A.6 until 20 stitches remain, A.10a as before, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 83-91-91-99-107-115 stitches on needle.
Work pattern as follows:
7 stitches in garter stitch, work A.7 until 20 stitches remain, A.10a as before, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
Work A.7 3 times in total vertically. Piece measures approx. 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm.
Work pattern as follows:
7 stitches in garter stitch, work A.8 until 20 stitches remain and decrease at the same time 21-24-24-27-30-33 stitches evenly, A.10a as before, 7 band stitches in garter stitch = 62-67-67-72-77-82 stitches.
When A.8 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.8a vertically until finished measurements.
When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, cast off the first 7 stitches on next row from right side = 55-60-60-65-70-75 stitches. Then work diagonal shoulder, begin on next row from the neck as follows:
* Work pattern as before until 8-9-9-10-11-12 stitches remain, turn and work back *, work from *-* 3 times in total. I.e. work 8-9-9-10-11-12 stitches less on every turn from the neck.
On last row towards the neck work until 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches remain, slip the last 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches on a thread for shawl collar and cast on 2 new stitches on needle = 37-39-38-42-46-51 stitches.

Now work and cast off with an edge over shoulder stitches.
Work stitches cast on with shoulder stitches as follows:
Work * 1 stitch in stocking stitch, work next stitch together with first/next stitch from shoulder – remember KNIT TOGETHER, pass the 2 stitches back on the needle they came from with strand on wrong side of piece, make sure not to tighten yarn too much *, work from *-* until all stitches from shoulder have been worked together with the 2 new stitches that were cast on. Cast off the 2 stitches.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Slip the 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches from stitch holder on circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work as follows, begin from right side: 0-2-3-3-5-5 stitches in garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl until until 7 stitches remain, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue like this (i.e. cables are done) and work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work the first 16-19-20-21-22-22 stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 2 (= right side): Work 16-19-20-21-22-22 stitches.
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Work over all stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= right side): Work over all stitches.
Work 1st to 4th row until shawl collar measures approx. 7-8-8-9-9-9 cm on the shortest. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside 1 stitch on i-cord edge. Sew stitches in garter stitch together. Sew shawl collar tog mid back and sew on to neck line at the back of neck. Sew side seams inside 1 edge stitch. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

Diagram explanations
symbol = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbol = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbol = slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbol = slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbol = slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbol = slip 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbol = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next row

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