DROPS Puna
DROPS Puna
100% Alpaca
from 3.55 € /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 57.20€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Cracked Walnuts Short Sleeve

Knitted vest in DROPS Kid-Silk and DROPS Puna / DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted bottom up with textured pattern, ridges, cables, double neck and rib. Size XS – XXL.

DROPS 237-9
DROPS design: Pattern pu-067
Yarn group A and B
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
Colour/quality used on picture:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 17, nougat
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-200 g colour 42, almond

Or use:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 07, light brown
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-175 g colour 12, beige

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm: Length 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Puna
DROPS Puna
100% Alpaca
from 3.55 € /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 57.20€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

KNIT TOGETHER:
FROM RIGHT SIDE: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
FROM WRONG SIDE: Purl 2 together.

STOCKING STITCH:
When working from wrong side, purl and when working from right side, knit.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST – SHORT SUMMARY OF PIECE:
Work front and back piece back and forth separately. Finish with a double neck.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 98-110-110-122-134-146 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side.
Work next row as follows from right side:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, work A.1 until 1 stitch remain, 1 stitch in garter stitch.
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.2 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 114-128-128-142-156-170 stitches on needle. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm.
Work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.3 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Repeat A.3 vertically until piece measures 16-17-19-19-21-22 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.4 until 1 stitch remains and decrease at the same time 27-36-36-40-44-48 stitches evenly, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 87-92-92-102-112-122 stitches.
When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.5 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Repeat A.5 vertically. When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm, cast on 6 new stitches at the end of the next 2 rows = 99-104-104-114-124-134 stitches. Work the new stitches in garter stitch until finished measurements.
Continue pattern like this until piece measures 33-35-36-38-39-41 cm.
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 stitches in garter stitch, work A.6 until 7 stitches remain, 7 stitches in garter stitch.
When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 150-158-158-174-190-206 stitches on needle.
Work pattern as follows:
7 stitches in garter stitch, work A.7 until 7 stitches remain, 7 stitches in garter stitch.
Work A.7 3 times in total vertically. Piece measures approx. 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm.
Work pattern as follows:
7 stitches in garter stitch, work A.8 until 7 stitches remain and decrease at the same time 51-54-54-60-66-72 stitches evenly, 7 stitches in garter stitch = 99-104-104-114-124-134 stitches.
When A.8 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.8a vertically until finished measurements.
When piece measures 49-51-53-55-57-59 cm, cast off the middle 27-30-30-32-32-34 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder (36-37-37-41-46-50 stitches) separately. On next row from neck cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of row = 35-36-36-40-45-49 stitches. On next towards the neck cast off the first 7 stitches = 28-29-29-33-38-42 stitches. Then work diagonal shoulder, begin on next row from the neck as follows:
* Work pattern as before until 7-7-7-8-9-10 stitches remain, turn and work back *, work from *-* 3 times in total. I.e. work 7-7-7-8-9-10 stitches less on every row from the neck.
On last row towards neck, cast on 2 new stitches at the end of row = 30-31-31-35-40-44 stitches.
Now work and cast off with an edge over shoulder stitches.
Work stitches cast on with shoulder stitches as follows:
Work * 1 stitch in STOCKING STITCH – read explanation above, work next stitch together with first/next stitch from shoulder – read KNIT TOGETHER, pass the 2 stitches back on the needle they came from with strand on wrong side of piece, make sure not to tighten yarn too much *, work from *-* until all stitches from shoulder have been worked together with the 2 new stitches that were cast on. Cast off the 2 stitches. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as back piece until piece measures 46-48-49-51-52-54 cm = 99-104-104-114-124-134 stitches. Now slip the middle 15-18-18-20-20-22 stitches on a thread for neck and finish each shoulder (42-43-43-47-52-56 stitches) separately. Now cast off stitches for neck on every row from neck as follows:
Cast off 2 stitches 2 times in total and 1 stitch 3 times in total = 35-36-36-40-45-49 stitches remain on shoulder. Then work each shoulder as on back piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside 1 stitch on edge and sew stitches in garter stitch together. Sew side seams inside 1 edge stitch.

DOUBLE COLLAR:
Begin in one shoulder seam, pick up approx. 76 to 104 stitches around the neck (including stitches on thread) from right side, on a short circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand in each quality. Number of stitches must be divisible by 4.
Work rib (purl 2/knit 2) over all stitches.
When neck measures 14 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl with circular needle size 5.5 mm (make sure to avoid a tight cast neck-off edge).
Fold the rib down on inside of garment. Fasten rib to get a double neck edge. To avoid a tight neck edge that sticks out it is important to keep the seam elastic.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next row
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Régine PRAT wrote:

Bonjour, pouvez-vous me guider sur la taille de votre très joli modele de pull sans manche ? quelle taille porte votre mannequin sur la photo, s'il vous plait et combien mesure t-elle ? en vous remerciant par avance. Bonne journée Régine

14.10.2023 - 14:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Prat, nos mannequins portent en général soit un S soit un M; mais comme nous sommes toutes bâties différemment, la meilleure façon de trouver la taille idéale est de mesurer un vêtement similaire que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme et de comparer ces mesures à celles du schéma. Retrouvez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

16.10.2023 - 09:02

country flag Hansson wrote:

När ni lanserade er nya höstkollektion trodde jag ni även skulle få andra färger i Puna. Kommer det komma andra färger i Puna än dessa bruna/beige och grå?

18.08.2023 - 14:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hansson Foreløpig er det kun de 9 naturfargene vi har i Puna. Ingen nye farger denne sessongen. mvh DROPS Design

21.08.2023 - 08:57

country flag Emma wrote:

Hej, Vilken svårighetsgrad skulle ni säga att detta mönstret är? Jag tycker det är svårt att avgöra på förhand om det kommer bli en bra utmaning eller om det är alldeles för svårt.

01.08.2023 - 14:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Emma, svårt att säga, men tror du fixar det :)

01.08.2023 - 14:54

country flag Dominique wrote:

Comment réaliser ce pull en vert clair ou bleu clair avec la Merino extra fine et la kid silk? Quelles sont les couleurs qu'il est possible d'associer?

10.04.2023 - 11:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Dominique, pour toute assistance au choix des couleurs, merci de bien vouloir contacter directement votre magasin DROPS, on pourra vous proposer, même par mail ou téléphone, les alternatives possibles. Bon tricot!

11.04.2023 - 14:09

country flag Mrs Sue Torkington wrote:

Hello! I have been knitting forever! but I do not understand why the pattern states to cast on and then purl from wrong side for the first row when the first row would be the right side facing. Should there be a knit row first? I have looked at this so many times and cannot understand how the 2nd row would then be the right side. Help! Sue

11.03.2023 - 23:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Torkington, we do this, because it makes the start of teh ribbing more flexible, and look nicer. When you do this the side you are knitting your second row will be the right side of your piece. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

12.03.2023 - 15:28

country flag Silvia wrote:

Buongiorno, la spiegazione parla di un campione con 16 maglie in larghezza e 20 ferri in verticale a maglia rasata e 1 capo di ogni qualità = 10 x 10 cm. Ma con quali ferri deve essere eseguito? 4 o 5,5? Grazie

15.02.2023 - 21:09

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Silvia, deve lavorare il campione con i ferri che le permettono di ottenere quelle misure: solitamente sono quelli più grandi riportati, ma la misura potrebbe variare in base alla sua tensione durante la lavorazione. Buon lavoro!

16.02.2023 - 19:09

country flag Pe wrote:

Hallo, ich stricke gerade in Größe S. Bei Muster A 5 geht es sich mit der Maschenzahl nicht aus. Bei 92 Maschen habe ich im Mustersatz eine Masche zuviel. Kann das sein oder habe ich einen Fehler? Vielen Dank.

17.01.2023 - 09:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Pe, es sollte klappen, so stricken Sie die 92 Maschen: 1 Randmasche kraus rechts, wiederholen Sie jetzt 18 Mal die 5 Maschen in A.5 (= 18*5=90 Maschen), und enden Sie mit 1 Randmasche kraus rechts = 1+90+1=92. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.01.2023 - 10:25

country flag Ina Van Velzen wrote:

Het kwartje is inmiddels gevallen. Ga vrolijk verder. Groet van mij.

01.11.2022 - 22:57

country flag Ina Van Velzen wrote:

Goedemorgen, het betreft drops 237"cracked walnuts, 6 en later 7'nieuwe steken erbij, deze 13 steken blijven breien in ribbel? Want als ik alleen de laatste 7 in ribbel brei en de eerste 6 opneem in het patroon dan komen er nog meer steken bij ( was 99 + 17 x 3(omslag) = 150. Dan wordt het geen 17x 3 maar veel meer steken en dat kan niet. Hoop dat ik het goed heb uitgelegd. Graag uw hulp. Mvg. Ina.

31.10.2022 - 09:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ina,

Je breit die nieuwe 6 steken inderdaad in ribbelsteek. Er komen later geen nieuwe steken meer bij, maar je breit de buitenste 7 steken in ribbelsteek.

16.11.2022 - 19:36

country flag Ina Van Velzen wrote:

Bedankt voor uw antwoord ik staarde mij blind op de tekst"alleen de naalden aan de goede kant (rechts)laten zien"". Ik kan gelukkig weer verder. Hartelijke groeten van Ina.

20.10.2022 - 16:59