DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 67.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Cornflower Blues

Knitted sweater in 3 strands DROPS Kid-Silk or 1 strand DROPS Melody. Piece is knitted bottom up in stockinette stitch with V-neck. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 236-10
DROPS design: Pattern ks-201
Yarn group A + A + A or D
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-104-110-124-136-144 cm = 37 3/4"-41"-43 3/8"-48 3/4"-53 1/2"-56 1/2"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
Color/quality used on picture:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g color 21, cobalt blue

Or use:
DROPS Melody from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group D)
300-300-300-400-400-400 g color 07, dark jeans blue

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75: Length: 80 cm = 32”
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length: 80 cm = 32”
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.

KNITTING GAUGE:
13 stitches in width and 15 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 3 strands DROPS Kid-Silk or 1 strand DROPS Melody = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 67.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

V-NECK:
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease as follows before A.2: Knit 2 together (1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows after A.3: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Front piece and back piece are worked back and forth on circular needle, bottom up. Work sleeves back and forth on circular needle. Sew parts together. Finish with a i-cord bind-off at the back of neck on back piece.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 72-80-84-92-104-112 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 with 3 strands DROPS Kid-Silk or 1 strand DROPS Melody. Purl 1 row from wrong side.
Work rib, begin from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain, purl 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth in rib for 4 cm = 1 1/2".
Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 8-10-10-10-14-16 stitches evenly = 64-70-74-82-90-96 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75. Continue in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm = 12 1/2"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/2", bind off 3-4-4-5-6-7 stitches for armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 58-62-66-72-78-82 stitches. Continue in stockinette stitch. When piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8", slip the middle 24-24-24-26-26-26 stitches on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. On next row from neck bind off 1 stitch = 16-18-20-22-25-27 stitches for shoulder. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4", bind off.
Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 72-80-84-92-104-112 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 with 3 strands DROPS Kid-Silk or 1 strand DROPS Melody. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work rib, begin from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, knit 2, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth in rib for 4 cm = 1 1/2".
Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 8-10-10-10-14-16 stitches evenly = 64-70-74-82-90-96 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75.
Continue in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm = 12 1/2"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/2", bind off 3-4-4-5-6-7 stitches for armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 58-62-66-72-78-82 stitches. Continue in stockinette stitch, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm = 14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8", work A.1 over the middle 8 stitches on row. When 2nd row in diagram has been worked, divide the piece mid front for right and left front piece, and finish each part separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 29-31-33-36-39-41 stitches. Work next row from right side as follows: Work in stockinette stitch until 6 stitches remain before neck, decrease 1 stitch for V-NECK - read explanation above, work A.2 over the last 4 stitches. Work in stockinette stitch, continue pattern like this and decrease for V-neck on every row from right side totalt 7-7-6-7-7-6 times in total, then every 4th row 3-3-4-4-4-5 times. When all decreases for V-neck are done, 19-21-23-25-28-30 stitches remain for shoulder. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4", slip the outermost 3 stitches towards the neck on a thread and bind off the remaining 16-18-20-22-25-27 stitches.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 29-31-33-36-39-41 stitches. Work next row from right side as follows: A.3 over the first 4 stitches, decrease 1 stitch for V-NECK - read explanation above, work in stockinette stitch the rest of row.
Work in stockinette stitch, continue pattern and decrease for V-neck on every row from right side 7-7-6-7-7-6 times in total, then every 4th row 3-3-4-4-4-5 times. When all decreases for V-neck are done, there 19-21-23-25-28-30 stitches for shoulder. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4", slip the outermost 3 stitches towards the neck on a thread and bind off the remaining 16-18-20-22-25-27 stitches.


SLEEVES:
Cast on 42-46-46-50-50-54 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 with 3 strands DROPS Kid-Silk or 1 strand DROPS Melody. Purl 1 row from wrong side, and work rib, begin from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from*-* until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth in rib for 4 cm = 1 1/2".
Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 0-3-3-5-3-6 stitches evenly = 42-43-43-45-47-48 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75. Work in stockinette stitch with 1 stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When sleeve measures 26-21-21-21-18-18 cm = 10 1/4"-8 1/4"-8 1/4"-8 1/4"-7"-7", increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this approx. every 3-3-2-2-2-1½ cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1/2" 6-7-9-9-10-11 times in total = 54-57-61-63-67-70 stitches. Continue to work until sleeve measures 47-46-46-45-43-43 cm = 18 1/2"-18"-18"-17 3/4"-17"-17". Bind off. Sleeve measures approx. 47-46-46-45-43-43 cm = 18 1/2"-18"-18"-17 3/4"-17"-17".
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside bind-off edge. Sew sleeves in body inside bind-off edge on sleeves and 1 edge stitch on body - see chart. Sew seam under sleeves and then down the side seam- sew inside 1 edge stitch.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from right side approx. 32 to 34 stitches (including stitches on thread) between shoulder seam at the back of neck with circular needle size 5.5 and 3 strands DROPS Kid-Silk or 1 strand DROPS Melody. Cut the yarn. Now work a i-cord edge as follows:
Slip the 3 stitches from thread on right front piece on circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9. Work i-cord from right side as follows:
Knit 2, knit next stitch twisted together with the first/next stitch picked up along neck edge on back piece. Move the 3 stitches from right needle back on to left needle (in the order they have). Continue like this along the entire neck edge on back piece until there are no stitches left to work. Bind off the remaining stitches. Sew the last 3 stitches together with the 3 stitches on thread on left front piece with grafting/kitchener stitches.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 28.09.2023
Correction in the decreases for V-neck so that the number of stitches on each shoulder is the same whe I-cord edge is to be worked.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = Sew sleeve to armhole as follows: Sew a against A and b against B.
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (29)

country flag Hilde wrote:

Bonjour, je dois rallonger les manches de 7-8cm, quel est votre conseil?

08.03.2024 - 13:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Hilde, vous pouvez les répartir au choix sur toute la longueur de la manche (espace entre les augmentations inclus) ou bien les ajouter à la fin de la manche, quand toutes les augmentations sont faites. Bon tricot!

08.03.2024 - 13:43

country flag Trish wrote:

Hello, I am wondering if you would recommend blocking each piece, front,back, and sleeves individually before sewing together or is it better to join it all and then block it when completed? Thank you for your help! Trish

24.07.2023 - 15:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Trish, join it all and then block it when completed. Happy knitting!

24.07.2023 - 16:21

country flag Maria wrote:

Posso fare questo modello con filato Air? Il risultato è lo stesso? Quanti gomitoli Air per una taglia s ? Grazie

23.07.2023 - 20:42

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Maria, questo modello può essere realizzato utilizzando 3 capi di un filato appartenente al nostro gruppo di filati A oppure con 1 capo di un filato che appartiene al gruppo D, in questo caso Melody. Air appartiene al gruppo C, con una tensione diversa. Buon lavoro!

24.07.2023 - 19:20

country flag Stéphanie Kaufmann wrote:

Re bonjour et merci pour votre réponse, mais ce détail là je l'avais compris. Ma question est : nous avons 20 mailles sur chaque épaule. Nous allons assembler les épaules mais mettre 3 mailles en attente sur celles de devant. Nous assemblons donc 17 mailles. Question : que fait-on des 3 mailles en trop sur les épaules côté dos ? Encore merci pour tout.

28.04.2023 - 09:06

country flag Stéphanie Kaufmann wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprend pas l'encolure. On doit rabattre la totalité des mailles des épaules côté dos et en garder 3 en attente côté devant. Celles-ci serviront à faire l'encolure. Que fait-on des 3 mailles rabattues en plus au dos de chaque côté ? Elles n'entre pas dans la fabrication de l'encolure. De plus on doit relever entre 32 et 34 mailles. Il y en a 24 au dos et 3 en attente de chaque côté =30. On rajoute seulement 4 mailles de plus. Merci pour votre rapide réponse.

26.04.2023 - 18:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Kaufmann, cette vidéo montre comment rabattre les mailles avec cette technique (en bas d'un pull); dans notre cas ici, vous allez d'abord relever les mailles le long de l'encolure dos (32 -34 m), puis coupez le fil, reprenez les 3 mailles conservées à la fin du devant droit et tricotez la bordure i-cord en rabattant les mailles comme dans la vidéo (où on a 4 m, mais la technique est la même), quand vos 32-34 m ont été tricotées et rabattues en I-cord, assemblez les 3 m restantes aux 3 mailles de l'épaule gauche du devant. Bon tricot!

27.04.2023 - 08:38

country flag Delphine Toniatti wrote:

Merci pour ce modèle. Les explications sont très claires (comme toujours!). Je n'ai rencontré aucune difficulté particulière pour l'exécuter, tout est parfaitement détaillé. Merci encore pour tous vos modèles gratuits !!!

13.04.2023 - 20:26

country flag Yvonne wrote:

Hoi, vraagje: op het achterpand kant je in maat M 18 st af voor de schouder. Het voorpand heeft ook 18 st voor de schouder, maar daarvan zijn er 3 nodig om de punnikrand te breien, dus eigenlijk 15 st. De schouders moeten samengenaaid worden, maar bij deze dikke naalden, is 3 steken verschil rommelig weg te werken. Dit patroon is vrijwel identiek aan patroon 228-11, echter, daar zijn voor de schouders hetzelfde aantal steken op voor- en achterpand, + 3 extra op het voorpand voor de punnikrand.

29.03.2023 - 18:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Yvonne,

Ik denk dat je gelijk hebt en dat er 3 extra steken op het voorpand bij de schouder moeten zijn voor de punnikrand. Ik zal het doorgeven aan de ontwerpafdeling om na te kijken zodat er een correctie op kan komen.

05.04.2023 - 19:37

country flag Trish wrote:

Hello, I wonder if you could help me please? I am wondering about the instruction to Purl 1 row from the wrong side after casting on for Back piece. I have difficulty in doing this and wonder if it possible to skip this and just start the rib immediately after casting on. Or if it is necessary is there a way to do it differently? Thank you

23.03.2023 - 15:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Trish, knitting a row of purl stitches stabilizes the cast on, and puts the right side of the knitting to the "other side" this makes the edges look smoother. If you cannot purl, because it is too thight, try using two needles held together for the cast on, then remove one, and then knit the first row. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

24.03.2023 - 02:56

country flag Ursula wrote:

Hallo, ich möchte Vorder - und Rückenteil auf der Rundnadel zusammen stricken, bis unter die Arme und dann teilen. Weil ich nicht gerne zusammennähe würde ich später die Maschen für die Ärmel am Armausschnitt auffassen und ähnlich wie bei Raglan nach unten stricken. Geht das oder gibt es dann ein Problem? Vielen Dank für ihre Hilfe und liebe Grüße Ursula

04.03.2023 - 18:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ursula, ja wahrscheinlich können Sie die Anleitung auch so umrechnen bzw anpassen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.03.2023 - 09:22

country flag Andrea wrote:

Hallo, Stricke ich die Randmache des V Ausschnitts auch immer kraus rechts? Oder wie ist das vorgesehen?

04.02.2023 - 10:22

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Andrea, die 4 Maschen von Halsausschnitt werden wie bei A.2/A.3 gestrickt, dh die sind glatt rechts gestrickt mit 1 glatt links gestrickte Masche innerhalb diese 3 Maschen; es ist keine extra Randmasche dazu. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.02.2023 - 15:39