DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Variety

Knitted sweater in DROPS Lima or DROPS Karisma. Piece is knitted top down with European shoulder /diagonal shoulder, relief pattern and double neck edge. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 235-3
DROPS design: Pattern li-146
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 108-116-126-134-144-156 cm = 42 1/2"-45 3/4"-49 1/2"-52 3/4"-56 1/2"-61 3/8"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
700-800-850-950-1050-1150 g color 0206, wheat

Or use:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
700-800-850-950-1050-1150 g color 77, light oak

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP FROM THE RIGHT SIDE:
Increase towards the left AFTER MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop.
Increase towards the right BEFORE MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
INCREASE TIP FROM THE WRONG SIDE:
Increase towards the left AFTER MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and purl stitch in front loop.
Increase towards the right BEFORE MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and purl stitch in back loop.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work top part of back piece back and forth on circular needle, top down until armholes are done. Then pick up stitches along each shoulder, increase for neck and work front piece back and forth on circular needle, top down until armholes are done.
Slip front and back piece together. Work the body in the round on circular needle.
Pick up stitches around each armhole. Work sleeve cap back and forth on circular needle, then work the rest of sleeve in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle. Finish with a double neck edge.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 39-39-43-43-47-47 stitches on circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 with DROPS Lima or DROPS Karisma. Purl 1 row from wrong side.
Insert 1 marker on the inside of the 3 outermost stitches in each side. Marker should be inside the outermost 3 stitches on every row.
Work first row as follows from right side: A.1A, increase AFTER marker at the beginning of row – read INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE, work A.1B 8-8-9-9-10-10 times in total, work A.1C and increase at the same time BEFORE marker at the end of row – remember INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE.
On next row (wrong side) increase the same way – read INCREASE TIP FROM WRONG SIDE.
Continue pattern like this and increase the same way from both right and wrong side 34-38-40-44-46-50 times in total – work the increased stitches in A.1B, but make sure that there are always at least 3 stitches in stockinette stitch at the edge in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
NOTE! When A.1A, A.1B and A.1C have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.1 vertically the same way, i.e. every time A.1 is repeated vertically, there is room for 4 more repetitions of A.1B in width.
After last increase there are 107-115-123-131-139-147 stitches on needle and piece measures approx. 12-14-14-16-16-18 cm = 4 3/4"-5 1/2"-5 1/2"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-7" from cast-on edge.
Continue pattern back and forth as before until piece measures 8-10-8-9-9-11 cm = 3 1/8"-4"-3 1/8"-3 1/2"-3 1/2"-4 3/8" measured at the edge along armhole (piece measures approx. 20-24-22-25-25-29 cm = 8"-9 1/2"-8 3/4"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-11 3/8" from cast-on edge mid back) – finish after a row from wrong side.
Then work A.2 back and forth over all stitches.
When A.2 has been worked, work next row as follows from right side: 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, A.3A, work A.3B 12-13-14-15-16-17 times in total, A.3C, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch. Continue pattern like this.
When back piece measures 17-18-18-19-20-21 cm = 6 3/4"-7"-7"-7 1/2"-8"-8 1/4" measured at the edge along armhole, cut the yarn, lay the piece to one side on a thread or on an extra needle. Armholes on back piece are now done (A.3 is not done but is finished on body). Work front piece as explained below.

FRONT PIECE:
Begin with right shoulder (when garment is worn).
Pick up from right side 34-38-40-44-46-50 stitches inside 1 stitch along right shoulder on back piece (i.e. pick up 1 stitch in every row from edge at the top of back piece).
Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work next row as follows from the right side (i.e. from armhole):

S, M, XXL and XXXL:
3 stitches in stockinette stitch, work A.1B until 3 stitches remain, finish with 3 stitches in stockinette stitch.

L and XL:
3 stitches in stockinette stitch, work A.1B until 5 stitches, work the 2 first stitches in A.1E, finish with 3 stitches in stockinette stitch.

ALL SIZES:
Continue pattern back and forth like this.
When piece measures 5 cm = 2" from where stitches were picked up, increase stitches towards the neck. Increase 1 stitch for neck inside 3 stitches at the end of every row from right side remember INCREASE TIP FROM THE RIGHT SIDE. Increase for neck the same way 6-6-7-7-8-8 times in total – work the increased stitches in A.1B, but make sure that there are always at least 3 stitches in stockinette stitch towards the neck. After last increase there are 40-44-47-51-54-58 stitches on needle.
Cut the yarn when last increase from right side is done. Lay the piece to one side on a thread or on an extra needle then work left shoulder as explained below.

Pick up from right side 34-38-40-44-46-50 stitches inside 1 stitch along left shoulder on back piece.
Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work next row as follows from the right side (i.e. from neck):

S, M, XXL and XXXL:
3 stitches in stockinette stitch, work A.1D until 3 stitches remain, finish with 3 stitches in stockinette stitch.

L and XL:
3 stitches in stockinette stitch, work A.1E until 5 stitches, work the 2 first stitches in A.1B, finish with 3 stitches in stockinette stitch.

ALL SIZES:
Continue pattern back and forth like this.
When piece measures 5 cm = 2" from where stitches were picked up, increase stitches towards the neck. Increase 1 stitch for neck inside 3 stitches at the beginning of every row from right side remember INCREASE TIP FROM THE RIGHT SIDE. Increase for neck the same way 6-6-7-7-8-8 times in total – work the increased stitches in A.1D/A.1E, but make sure that there are always at least 3 stitches in stockinette stitch towards the neck. After last increase there are 40-44-47-51-54-58 stitches on needle.
Work next row as follows from wrong side: Work pattern as before over the 40-44-47-51-54-58 stitches from left front, cast on 27-27-29-29-31-31 stitches for neck at the end of this row, then work pattern as before over the 40-44-47-51-54-58 stitches from right front piece = 107-115-123-131-139-147 stitches.
Continue A.1 back and forth until piece measures approx. 14-16-16-17-17-19 cm = 5 1/2"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7 1/2" from where stitches were picked up - finish after a row from wrong side as on back piece.
Now insert 1 marker at the edge along armhole, 3-3-4-4-4-4 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2" from where stitches were picked up.
Measure the garment by folding the piece at the top point on the inside of shoulder and at marker on front piece - make sure that A.1 is the same length on front and back piece. This important so that the pattern fits in the sides when piece is put together. Adjust the length of A.1 if needed.
Then work A.2 back and forth over all stitches.
When A.2 has been worked, work next row as follows from right side: 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, A.3A, work A.3B 12-13-14-15-16-17 times in total, A.3C, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch.
Continue the pattern like this until piece measures 23-24-26-27-28-29 cm = 9"-9 1/2"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8", measured along the edge of armhole from where stitches were picked up (A.3 is not done but finish front piece on same row in diagram as back piece – this is important so that the pattern fits in the sides when piece is put together).
Now put front piece and back piece together for body as explained below.

BODY:
Work pattern as before over the 107-115-123-131-139-147 stitches from front piece, cast on 6-8-8-10-14-18 new stitches at the end of this row (in the side under sleeve), work pattern as before over the 107-115-123-131-139-147 stitches from back piece and cast on 6-8-8-10-14-18 new stitches on row (in the side under sleeve) = 226-246-262-282-306-330 stitches.
Finish A.3 - work stitches cast on in each side in stockinette stitch until A.3 is finished.
Now work A.4 in the round - AT THE SAME TIME on first round increase 2-0-2-0-0-0 stitches evenly = 228-246-264-282-306-330 stitches.
On next to last round in A.4 increase 32-34-36-38-38-42 stitches evenly = 260-280-300-320-344-372 stitches (this is done because the next pattern contracts the piece).
When A.4 has been worked, work A.5 in the round. Repeat A.5 vertically until piece measures 41-43-45-46-46-48 cm = 16 1/8"-17"-17 3/4"-18"-18"-19", measured from the top point on front piece in towards the neck (work A.5 approx. 3-3-4-4-4-4 times vertically and piece measures approx. 18-19-19-19-18-19 cm = 7"-7 1/2"-7 1/2"-7 1/2"-7"-7 1/2" from where stitches were cast on in each side) – AT THE SAME TIME on last round in A.5, decrease 32-36-36-40-40-44 stitches evenly = 228-244-264-280-304-328 stitches.
Now work A.6 in the round over all stitches.
When A.6 has been worked, work A.1B in the round over all stitches until piece measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4", measures from the top point on front piece in towards the neck – finish when 2 or 3 rounds in stockinette stitch have been worked after a round with purl stitches (piece measures approx. 25-26-26-27-28-29 cm = 9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8" from where stitches were cast on in each side).
Knit 1 round while increasing 56-64-68-76-76-84 stitches evenly = 284-308-332-356-380-412 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) for 8 cm = 3 1/8". Loosely bind off. Sweater measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-62-64-66, measured from the top point on shoulder on front piece.

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Use circular needle size 4 MM = US 6, pick up from right side 36-38-38-40-42-44 stitches from bottom of armhole and up to shoulder (along back piece), and 48-50-54-56-58-60 stitches from shoulder and down to the bottom of armhole on the other side (along front piece) = 84-88-92-96-100-104 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of row – use marker thread when counting where pattern should begin and where to measure from.
Begin from wrong side with 2nd row in A.4, and work A.4 back and forth – marker thread mid on top of sleeve should fit symbol in A.4.
When sleeve measures 1-2-2-2-3-4 cm = 3/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/2", slip piece together and work the rest of sleeve on a short circular needle/double pointed needles.
When A.4 has been worked, work A.1B in the round.

AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8" from where piece was put together, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 2½-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm = 1"-1"-3/4"-3/4"-1/2"-1/2" 12-12-14-14-16-16 times in total = 60-64-64-68-68-72 stitches.
Work until sleeve measures 35-33-32-32-30-28 cm = 13 3/4"-13"-12 1/2"-12 1/2"-11 3/4"-11" from where piece was put together. 12 cm = 4 3/4" remain until finished measurements. Try the sweater and work to desired length before rib.
Knit 1 round while increasing 16-16-16-16-20-20 stitches evenly = 76-80-80-84-88-92 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) for 12 cm = 4 3/4". Loosely bind off. Sleeve measures approx. 48-47-46-46-45-44 cm = 19"-18 1/2"-18"-18"-17 3/4"-17 1/4" from stitches where knitted up.
Sew bottom of armhole - see chart.

LEFT SLEEVE:
Use circular needle size 4 MM = US 6, pick up from right side 48-50-54-56-58-60 stitches from bottom of armhole and up to shoulder (along front piece) and 36-38-38-40-42-44 stitches from shoulder and down to the bottom of armhole on the other side (along front piece) = 84-88-92-96-100-104 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of row – use marker thread when counting where pattern should begin and where to measure from. Work the rest of the sleeve the same way as right sleeve.
Sew bottom of armhole - see chart.

NECK EDGE:
Begin at one shoulder line, and pick up from right side inside 1 edge stitch approx. 116-116-128-128-140-140 stitches on a short circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Number of stitches must be divisible by 4. Work rib in the round (knit 2/purl 2) for 12-12-13-13-14-14 cm = 4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5 1/8"-5 1/2"-5 1/2".
Fold the rib down on inside of garment and fasten it with 1 stitch at each shoulder.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 04.05.2023
FRONT PIECE:...L and XL: 3 stitches in stockinette stitch, work A.1E until 5 stitches, work the 2 first stitches in A.1E, finish with 3 stitches in stockinette stitch.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row purl yarn over twisted, i.e. work in back loop of stitch to avoid a hole (stitch is twisted towards the left seen from right side)
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row slip stitch off left needle, put it back on left needle but the opposite way (insert left needle from behind when slipping it back on needle). Purl yarn over in front loop of stitch to avoid a hole (stitch is twisted towards the right seen from right side)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
symbols = marks marker thread on sleeve
symbols = Sew bottom of armhole as follows: Sew b to B
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (54)

country flag Paulien wrote:

Goedemorgen, Het antwoord dat is gegeven schept geen duidelijkheid voor mij. Moet ik dan verder met A1.a, A1.b of A1.D Alvast bedankt

15.03.2024 - 07:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Paulien,

Het gaat erom dat je het gecreëerde patroon voortzet, zoals te zien is in de laatste foto en omdat je steeds, dus dat kom neer op A.1B.

15.03.2024 - 10:32

country flag Paulien wrote:

Goedendag, Ik ben gekomen tot ik de twee delen van de voorkant moet samenvoegen. Het patroon zegt dat ik dan verder A1 moet herhalen maar ik begrijp die logica niet. Welke A1 moet ik herhalen? Alvast bedankt voor de reactie! Groetjes Paulien

13.03.2024 - 22:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Paulien,

Je zet het patroon van A.1 voort met om de 4 naalden averechte steken aan de goede kant.

14.03.2024 - 21:55

country flag Tineke Van Rijn-Smits wrote:

Ik heb het voor- en achterpand samengevoegd en vraag me af of ik nu direct in de rondte moet gaan breien of pas als ik A.4 ga breien? En als het restant van A.3 in de rondte moet worden gebreid, brei ik dan de omslagen op dezelfde manier als wanneer ik heen en weer op de naald zou breien?

06.02.2024 - 23:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Tineke,

Zodra je het voor- en achterpand samen op de naald hebt gezet brei je het lijf verder in de rondte. Als het goed is heb je bij het heen en weer breien de omslagen steeds aan de goede kant gehad en heb je op de verkeerde kant steeds averecht gebreid (even naalden in de telpatronen). Nu brei je de even naalden steeds recht en de omslagen doe je inderdaad op dezelfde manier als hiervoor.

07.02.2024 - 19:14

country flag Elke wrote:

Hallo, wenn ich das Bündchen nicht so weit haben möchte, sollte ich dann auf die Maschenzunahmen vor dem Beginn des Bündchens verzichten? Danke für eine Antwort.

03.02.2024 - 23:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Elke, dann sollen Sie die Maschenanzahl so anpassen, damit sie den gewünschten Umfang passt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.02.2024 - 08:43

country flag Monica Martinsson wrote:

Hej! Jag har en fråga gällande bakstycket stil M. Efter ökningarna ska man sticka tills arbetet mäter 10 cm ytterst längs ärmhålen, ( ca 24 cm från uppläggningskanten) stämmer detta? storlek S ska vara 8 respekt 20 cm Storlek L ska vara 8 respekt 22 cm Storlek XL ska vara 9 respekt. 25 cm Tacksam för svar då jag känner mig väldigt konfunderad över detta 8 respekt. 20 cm

22.01.2024 - 20:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Monica, ja det stemmer str M 14+10=24 cm :)

02.02.2024 - 13:34

country flag Saskia S wrote:

Voor de nekrand staat er in het patroon dat deze aan de binnenkant vastgezet wordt met 1 steek aan elke schouder. In het filmpje wordt deze echter rondom vastgezet. Welke optie is het beste? Maakt dit nog verschil in het eindresultaat? P.S. Het is natuurlijk logisch maar in het patroon staat niet genoemd dat je de nekrand (héél losjes voor de elasticiteit) moet afhechten. (P.P.S. Het kan zijn dat mijn vraag dubbel is geplaatst, er ging iets niet helemaal goed bij het versturen)

16.01.2024 - 17:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Saskia,

Je zou de hals eerst aan beide kanten bij de schouder vast kunnen zetten. Als dat niet bevalt kun je de hals alsnog op meerdere plekken vast zetten of helemaal rondom. Je hebt inderdaad gelijk dat de halsrand losjes (elastisch) vastgenaaid moet worden.

21.01.2024 - 12:17

country flag Saskia S wrote:

Voor de nekrand staat er in het patroon dat deze aan de binnenkant vastgezet wordt met 1 steek aan elke schouder. In het filmpje wordt deze echter rondom vastgezet. Welke optie is het beste? Maakt dit nog verschil in het eindresultaat? \r\n\r\nP.S. Het is natuurlijk logisch maar in het patroon staat niet genoemd dat je de nekrand (héél losjes voor de elasticiteit) moet afhechten.

16.01.2024 - 17:41

country flag Carola Kaandorp wrote:

Prachtig patroon! Wel een vraag over het achterpand: in tekening A.1A en A.1C is de eerste rij zonder meerderingen, terwijl volgens de tekst ook de eerste rij wordt gemeerderd, want 43 + 40x2 = 123 steken; wat is de bedoeling?

12.12.2023 - 22:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Carola,

Je meerdert inderdaad naast de markeerdraden die ook naast A.1A en A.1C zitten. De gemeerderde steken komen uiteindelijk bij de telpatronen, zodat er op de volgende rij in het telpatroon een steek bij zit.

13.12.2023 - 21:12

country flag Carina Tangsgaard wrote:

Jeg er lige begyndt og synes det ser ud som et super spændende projekt. Jeg strikker normalt altid sweatre rundt så begyndelsen er lidt tricky. Skal en af de tre masker i siderne være en kantmaske eller er der ikke en kantmaske i dette arbejde? Jeg tror ikke men kan ikke helt tyde det. Og udtagninger er ikke tegnet ind i mønstret vel? Altså de to er extra før og efter man strikker A.1B. Ellers får jeg det ikke til at passe.

09.12.2023 - 12:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Carina. Starten på en genser med Europeisk skulder er noe annerledes en "vanlig" genser. Genser med Europeisk skulder får en flott passform hvor skulderen sitter litt bakpå og litt skrå, hvilket designet også kalles skrå skulder. Ta gjerne en titt på de 3 hjelpevideoene du finner under målskissene, da får du en viss oversikt over hvordan det strikkes. Ingen av de 3 ytterste maskene strikkes som en kantmaske. De økte maskene er tegnet inn i A.1A og A.1C, men blir nye masker / flere rapporter av A.1 B jo flere ganger man øker. mvh DROPS Design

11.12.2023 - 09:46

country flag C Bal wrote:

Kan ik het patroon ook vertalen in het pakistaans?

06.12.2023 - 11:12