DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Morning Hush

Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca. Piece is knitted top down with double knitted neck edge, round yoke and relief pattern on yoke. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 235-11
DROPS design: Pattern z-980
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-350-400-450-500-550 g colour 9024, dark blush

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
26 stitches in width and 34 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2).

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Begin 3 stitches before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (2 stitches decreased).

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Double knitted neck edge and yoke are worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work the body in the round on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

DOUBLE KNITTED NECK EDGE:
Cast on somewhat tightly 232-244-252-264-268-280 stitches on a short circular needle size 2.5 mm with DROPS Alpaca and work as follows:

ROUND 1: * Slip 1 stitch purlwise, with strand in front of piece, knit 1 *, work from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 2: * Purl 1, slip 1 stitch purlwise, with strand behind piece *, work from *-* the entire round.
Repeat 1st and 2nd round until neck edge measures 4 cm from cast-on edge.

On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2 = 116-122-126-132-134-140 stitches.
Knit 1 round while increasing 1-1-0-0-1-1 stitches evenly on round = 117-123-126-132-135-141 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle on round (mid front). Work yoke as explained below, measure yoke from this marker!

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Work A.1 39-41-42-44-45-47 times in total in the round on yoke.
Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 has been worked vertically, work A.2 the same way. When A.2 has been worked vertically, there are 351-369-420-440-495-517 stitches on needle. Work the same way without increase until piece measures 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm from marker at the neck.
Then work in stocking stitch - AT THE SAME TIME on first round increase 17-27-8-36-13-27 stitches evenly = 368-396-428-476-508-544 stitches.
When piece measures 19-21-22-24-26-28 cm, from marker at the neck, divide yoke for body and sleeves, i.e. work next round as follows:
Work 55-60-64-70-77-84 stitches in stocking stitch, slip the next 74-78-86-98-100-104 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (in the side under sleeve), work 110-120-128-140-154-168 stitches in stocking stitch, slip the next 74-78-86-98-100-104 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (in the side under sleeve), and work the last 55-60-64-70-77-84 stitches in stocking stitch. Finish body and sleeves separately. Now measure piece from here!

BODY:
= 240-260-280-304-336-368 stitches. Work in stocking stitch until piece measures 24-24-25-25-25-25 cm from division.
Knit 1 round while increasing 60-64-70-76-84-92 stitches evenly = 300-324-350-380-420-460 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) for 4 cm. Loosely cast off. Jumper measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 74-78-86-98-100-104 stitches from thread in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 3 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches cast on under sleeve = 84-88-98-110-114-120 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve, i.e. in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches that were cast on under sleeves. Begin round at the marker thread, and work stocking stitch in the round.
When sleeve measures 2 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2-2-1½-1-1-1 cm 7-8-11-16-17-18 times in total = 70-72-76-78-80-84 stitches.
Work without decrease until sleeve measures 38-36-36-34-33-31 cm from division.
Approx. 4 cm remain until finished measurements, try the jumper on and work to desired length before rib.
Knit 1 round while increasing 16-16-18-18-18-18 stitches evenly = 86-88-94-96-98-102 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) for 4 cm. Loosely cast off. Sleeve measures approx. 42-40-40-38-37-35 cm from division.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 235-11

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Aspevoll Torild Foss wrote:

Jeg strikker Morning hush. Spørsmål i oppskriften str L, ang " Bærestykke": Strikk A1, totalt 42 omganger. Men i mønsteret A1 er det bare 32 omganger. Er det 10 omganger til mellom A1 og A2 hvor mønsteret i A1 strikkes uten å øke? Tenker da at mønsteret blir "skakt" uten den regelmessige økingen - hva er rett her? Mvh Torild

28.01.2024 - 09:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Toril. Etter halskanten har du i str. L 126 masker på pinnen og du skal nå strikke A.1 42 ganger / 42 rapporter av A.1 som består av 3 masker. 3 masker x 42 rapporter = 126 masker. Når du har strikket A.1 1 gang i høyden (A.1 1 gang i høyden = 32 omganger), skal du ha 294 masker på pinnen og du skal nå strikke etter A.2. A.2 = 7 masker x 42 rapporter = 126 masker og du strikker da A.2 over A.1 42 ganger. Når du har strikket A.2 1 gang i høyden (26 omganger) skal du ha 420 masker på tråden. Nå strikkes det videre til arbeidet måler 15 cm fra merket i halsen. mvh DROPS Design

05.02.2024 - 11:23

country flag Anna wrote:

Buongiorno, grazie per i vostri modelli meravigliosi e chiari. Il bordo del collo doppio non mi viene bene, possibile che il secondo giro debba iniziare con una maglia a rovescio e non a diritto come invece è scritto nelle istruzioni?

21.09.2023 - 11:11

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Anna, grazie per la segnalazione: abbiamo corretto il testo, il 2° giro inizia con 1 maglia rovescio. Buon lavoro!

22.09.2023 - 23:43

country flag Anita Ström wrote:

Trevlig modell

08.08.2023 - 14:41

country flag Anja wrote:

Mistä löydän M koon rinnanympäryksen mitan? En löydä/ osaa lukea sitä.

23.05.2023 - 17:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, rinnanympäryksen mitta löytyy ohjeen alapuolella olevasta mittapiirroksesta. Koon M rinnanympärys on 100 cm.

23.05.2023 - 19:10

country flag Jocelyne wrote:

Bonjour, même question que ma question d’hier : est-il possible de faire une rehausse sur le modèle 215-16, pour éviter d’avoir une encolure trop dégagée à l’arrière ? Merci par avance, bonne journée Jocelyne

06.03.2023 - 07:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour, vous trouverez la réponse ci-dessous - pour un résultat optimum, si vous n'êtes pas sûre de vous, choisissez de suivre les explications telles quelles, vous aurez ainsi une encolure similaire et le même résultat que sur la photo. Boon tricot!

06.03.2023 - 10:43

country flag Jocelyne wrote:

Bonjour, est-il possible de faire une rehausse sur ce modèle (comme sur le modèle 236-2) sans préjudice pour la suite du tricot ? Merci par avance Jocelyne

05.03.2023 - 18:00

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Jocelyne, vous pouvez probablement utiliser la même base des rangs raccourcis de l'autre pull car l'échantillon est le même, tricotez ensuite la réhausse soit en jersey, soit en point fantaisie (avant l'augmentation de A.1 (= 1 m jersey, 2 m point mousse) pour que A.1 tombe juste par la suite) pour qu'elle soit peut-être un peu moins visible, il vous faudra peut-être essayer pour voir ce qui vous convient le mieux. Bon tricot!

06.03.2023 - 10:04

country flag Line Pallesgaard wrote:

Hej. Jeg har et spørgsmål til diagram A1. Der står i opskriften af man skal strikke diagram A1 (for str. XL er det 44 omgange) Men diagram A1 viser kun 32 omgange. Hvad skal jeg så strikke de sidste 12 omgange? Måske bare springe direkte til diagram A2 eller strikke de sidste 12 omgange som den sidste i diagram A1? Hilsen Line

09.02.2023 - 15:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Line, de 44 omgange er hvor mange gange du gentager A.1 rundt på pinden (på bærestykket) og altså ikke 44 omgange i højden :)

10.02.2023 - 11:42

country flag Karin wrote:

Hallo, Ich stricke den Pulli mit einem anderen Garn in Gr. M. Ich bin nun mit der Passé (A2 fertig gestrickt bis 14cm) fertig und habe festgestellt, dass der Pulli wohl etwas zu weit wird, wenn ich nun ab dem glatt rechts gestrickten Teil nochmals 27 M. aufnehmen muss. Ich überlege mir, ob ich auf Gr. S wechsle und daher 1 Masche abnehme, damit ich von jetzt 369 M. auf 368 M. komme. Wie seht ihr das? Vielen Dank!

01.02.2023 - 08:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Karin, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe? Wenn Sie 26 Maschen x 34 Reihen glatt rechts = 10 x10 cm haben, dann bekommen Sie die richtigen Maßen für M wie in der Maßskizze, sonnst sollen Sie mit Ihrer eigenen Maschenprobe umrechnen, damit Sie die richtigen Maßen bekommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.02.2023 - 09:03

country flag Birte wrote:

Hej Jeg syndes det er svært at strikke dobbelt halskant, da jeg syndes der er for mange masker og syndes ikke man skal strikke den med/sammen på et tidspunkt

28.01.2023 - 13:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Birte. Du kan fint strikke med bare en enkel halskant og gjøre de tilpassninger som trengs. Denne genseren er strikket med en dobbelt halskant og det er mange som liker det og vi prøver å tilpasse alle ønsker. mvh DROPS Design

30.01.2023 - 12:03

country flag Henny wrote:

Ik brei graag top down, maar is er ook een patroon met een perfecte hals, die moet nl achter veel hoger zijn, zit anders voor geen meter

14.11.2022 - 15:19

DROPS Design answered:

Beste Henny,

Sommige patronen hebben een verhoging in de hals, maar de meesten inderdaad niet waardoor er geen verschil zit tussen het voor- en achterpand. Je zou een aantal verkorte toeren aan de achterkant kunnen breien om het achterpand te verhogen.

14.11.2022 - 20:25