DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
 50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.70 € /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.60€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Cardigans
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  5. 232
  6. 48

Evening Walk Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Cotton Merino. The piece is worked bottom up in stocking stitch with short sleeves and flounces. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 232-48
DROPS Design: Pattern no cm-140
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour 28, powder

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Round (blush) NO 607: 4 items in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jackets & Cardigans Short Sleeve Cardigansbottom up flounce madame sewn in sleeves stocking stitch v-neck
DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
 50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.70 € /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.60€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Comments (13)

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

SHORT ROWS (for front pieces):
To allow the flounces (A.2) to lie neatly, short rows are worked on the front pieces.
Right front piece:
Start on the 7th row of pattern and work from the wrong side: Work as far as the knitted stitch before A.2 (= folding edge), turn, tighten the strand and work back. Repeat every 12th row until the beginning of the V-neck.
Left front piece:
Start on the 7th row of pattern and work from the right side: Work as far as the purled stitch before A.2 (= folding edge), turn, tighten the strand and work back. Repeat every 12th row until the beginning of the V-neck.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 117 stitches) minus the edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 19) = 6.
In this example decrease by knitting together each 5th and 6th stitch.

DECREASE TIP-2:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 3, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased), work until there are 6 stitches left, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 3, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Decrease 2 stitches on each side as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 3, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased), work until there are 7 stitches left, knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased), knit 3, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over (2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back and front pieces are worked separately back and forth.
The flounces are worked on the front pieces. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle as far as the sleeve cap, then finished back and forth. The piece is sewn together and the bands worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 117-126-138-150-165-183 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 3 mm and DROPS Cotton Merino. Work rib as follows:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, work the first stitch in A.1 so the rib is symmetrical and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 3 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 19-20-22-24-27-31 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 98-106-116-126-138-152 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm, cast off 4-4-5-6-7-8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes. Then start decreasing on both sides – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease 2 stitches every 2nd row (each row from the right side) 0-0-0-3-5-8 times, 1 stitch every 2nd row (each row from the right side) 3-6-9-6-6-5 times and 1 stitch every 4th row (every 2nd row from the right side) 2-2-2-2-2-2 times = 80-82-84-86-88-90 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm. Now cast off the middle 36-36-38-38-40-40 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 21-22-22-23-23-24 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm. Cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 66-72-78-84-90-99 stitches (including 1 edge stitch towards the side and stitches for the flounce-edge towards mid-front) with circular needle size 3 mm and DROPS Cotton Merino. Work rib as follows: Knit 7, purl 1, A.1 until there is 1 stitch left, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
The next row from the wrong side is worked as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work rib as before over the next 57-63-69-75-81-90 stitches, knit 1 (= folding edge; this stitch is purled from the right side and knitted from the wrong side onwards) work A.2 over the last 7 stitches (= flounce-edge). The number of stitches in A.2 will vary, depending on which row you are working. Continue back and forth like this for 3 cm, then work the next row from the right side as follows: Work A.2 as before, purl 1 (= folding edge), knit until there is 1 stitch left and decrease 9-11-12-13-13-15 stitches evenly over these stitches – remember DECREASE TIP-1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 57-61-66-71-77-84 stitches (when there are 7 stitches in A.2)
Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl as far as the folding edge, knit 1 (= folding edge), work A.2 as before.
Continue back and forth with stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side, the folding edge and A.2 towards mid-front, at the same time as you work SHORT ROWS – see description above.

OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
Now cast off for the armholes as well as working the V-neck. Read V-NECK and ARMHOLE before continuing.

V-NECK:
When the piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm, start to decrease for the V-neck on the next row from the right side:
Work the edge, purl 1 (= folding edge), knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased), work to the end of the row.
Decrease like this every 4th row 1-1-1-1-1-1 time, every 2nd row 12-12-13-13-14-14 times and every 4th row 5-5-5-5-5-5 times (= 18-18-19-19-20-20 stitches decreased for the V-neck).

ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm, cast off 4-4-5-6-7-8 stitches at the beginning of the next row from the wrong side. Work to the end of the row. At the end of the next row from the right side, decrease for the armhole in the same way as on the back piece (i.e. 5-8-11-14-18-23 stitches + the 4-4-5-6-7-8 stitches cast off earlier).
When all the decreases for the neck and armhole are finished there are 22-23-23-24-24-25 stitches on the shoulder + 8 stitches on the edge (= folding edge + A.2). Continue working until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm. Cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 66-72-78-84-90-99 stitches (including 1 edge stitch towards the side and stitches for the flounce-edge towards mid-front) with circular needle size 3 mm and DROPS Cotton Merino. Work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work the last 2 stitches in A.1, work A.1 until there are 9 stitches left, the first stitch in A.1, purl 1 (= folding edge; this stitch is purled from the right side and knitted from the wrong side onwards) and A.2 over the last 7 stitches. The number of stitches in A.2 will vary depending on which row you are working. Continue back and forth like this for 3 cm, then work the next row from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit as far as the folding edge and decrease 9-11-12-13-13-15 stitches evenly over these stitches, purl 1 (= folding edge), work A.2 = 57-61-66-71-77-84 stitches (when there are 7 stitches in A.2)
Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work back as follows: A.2, knit 1 (= folding edge), purl until there is 1 stitch left and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth with stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side and the folding edge and A.2 towards mid front, at the same time as you work SHORT ROWS as on the right front piece.

OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
Now cast off for the armholes as well as working the V-neck.

V-NECK:
When the piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm, start to decrease for the V-neck on the next row from the right side:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the folding edge, knit 2 together (1 stitch decreased),work to the end of the row.
Decrease like this every 4th row 1-1-1-1-1-1 time, every 2nd row 12-12-13-13-14-14 times and every 4th row 5-5-5-5-5-5 times (= 18-18-19-19-20-20 stitches decreased for the V-neck).

ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm, cast off 4-4-5-6-7-8 stitches at the beginning of the next row from the right side then decrease for the armhole in the same way as on the back piece (i.e. 5-8-11-14-18-23 stitches + the 4-4-5-6-7-8 stitches cast off earlier).
When all the decreases for the neck and armhole are finished there are 22-23-23-24-24-25 stitches on the shoulder + 8 stitches on the edge (= folding edge + A.2). Continue working until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm. Cast off.


SLEEVES:
Cast on 72-78-87-93-99-108 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm and DROPS Cotton Merino. Work A.1 in the round for 3 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 13-14-15-15-15-17 stitches evenly spaced – remember DECREASE TIP-1 = 59-64-72-78-84-91 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid-under the sleeve). Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it is used when increasing under the sleeve. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work stocking stitch. When the sleeve measures 6 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP.
Increase like this every 1½-1½-2-2-1½-2 cm a total of 6-6-5-4-4-3 times = 71-76-82-86-92-97 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 19-18-18-17-15-14 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders and longer sleeve cap). Now cast off 8-8-10-12-14-16 stitches mid-under the sleeve = 63-68-72-74-78-81 stitches. Continue back and forth and cast off for the sleeve cap at the beginning of every row on each side as follows: 2 stitches 4-3-4-3-2-1 times, 1 stitch 2-7-6-11-16-20 times and 2 stitches 5-4-4-3-2-1 times = 23-26-28-28-30-33 stitches. Cast off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 28-29-29-30-30-30 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the flounces to the right side along the folding edge and sew the flounce-edge into the shoulder seam – the shoulder seam is sewn inside the cast-off edge.
Sew the sleeves to the body inside the edge stitch on the body and the cast-off edge on the sleeves. Sew the side seams from the armhole down, inside the edge stitch. Insert a marker mid-back of neck.

RIGHT BAND:
Make sure the flounces are folded to the right side and knit up stitches as follows:
Start at the bottom of the right front piece and knit up stitches in the knitted stitch (folding edge on the wrong side) as follows: 1 stitch in each stitch as far as the shoulder seam (= approx. 132-137-143-148-154-160 stitches), and 23-23-24-24-25-25 stitches inside 1 stitch to the marker mid-back.
Work as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until there is 1 stitch left at the same time as you increase with yarn overs at the bottom of the V-neck as follows: * knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 3 times and the number of stitches is adjusted to a total of 141-147-153-159-165-171 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch at the end of the row).
ROW 2 (right side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, work the first stitch in A.1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this for 2 cm. Now work the buttonholes as follows (it is neatest if the buttonholes are worked where you have 2 purled stitches):
1 buttonhole: Purl 2 together and make 1 yarn over.
The bottom buttonhole is 3 cm from the bottom edge and the top buttonhole where the V-neck starts. The other buttonholes are worked with approx. 7½-8-8-8½-9-9 cm between each one.
Continue the rib until the band measures 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

LEFT BAND:
Make sure the flounces are folded to the right side and knit up stitches as follows:
Start mid-back of neck and knit up 23-23-24-24-25-25 stitches along the neck as far as the shoulder seam, then 1 stitch in each stitch down the folding edge (= approx. 132-137-143-148-154-160 stitches)
Work as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until there is 1 stitch left, at the same time as you increase with yarn overs at the bottom of the V-neck as follows: * knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 3 times and the number of stitches is adjusted to a total of 141-147-153-159-165-171 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch at the end of the row).
ROW 2 (right side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, work the first stitch in A.1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the bands together at the back of the neck, with the seam to the wrong side. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, knit from wrong side (ridges in A.2)
symbols = knit 1 twisted
symbols = knit 1 twisted from right side, purl 1 twisted from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = between 2 stitches make 2 yarn overs
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = purl 1 in 2nd yarn over (first yarn over already worked)
symbols = knit 2 twisted together
symbols = cast off this stitch
symbols = start on this row
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Sandra Ring wrote:

Oh, danke, Sie haben aber schnell geantwortet. Es steht doch geschrieben, dass sich der Rüschen Rand sauber legt, müssen verkürzte Reihen gestrickt werden. Steht ganz oben in der Beschreibung. Rechtes Vorderteil: 7. Reihe des Musters. Danke für Ihre Bemühungen, kann man irgendwo was spenden für Ihren Aufwand? Ich habe Erfahrungen im Ayourstricken. Verstehe das nicht wo es hapert.

04.01.2024 - 17:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ring, oh ja sicher sorry; bei den verkürzten Reihen stricken Sie dann bei der 7. Reihe nur die Maschen von A.2 genauso wie bei der 7. Reihe im Diagram, und die 8. Reihe auch genauso, dh A.2 wird einfach wie zuvor gestrickt, als es keine verkürzten Reihe gäbe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.01.2024 - 08:12

country flag Sandra Ring wrote:

Beim rechten Vorderteil fehlt mir in der 4. Reihe immer eine Masche (im Diagramm ist das eine rechts verschränkte Masche, genau da wo meine Bruchkante ist. Ignoriere ich dann diese rechts verschränkte und stricke diese Masche links, dass es eine Bruchkante bleibt? Mein Rüschen sieht auch nicht so aus, wie auf dem Bild. Wie genau sollten die beiden Maschen in der 4. Und 7. Reihe abgekettet werden? Das sieht so unordentlich aus. Habe schon X mal probiert.

04.01.2024 - 17:47

country flag Sandra Ring wrote:

Noch eine Frage zu der verkürzten Reihe. Ich stricke somit A1 bis zur Bruchkante Masche, drehe um und stricke A1 zurück und dann wieder zurück und dann stricke ich A2. Dh in der 7. Runde von A2, stricke ich zusätzlich zwei Reihen A1 und lasse A2 aus. Tut, mir leid, ist mein Debut mit verkürzten Reihen. Vielen Dank für Ihre Bemühungen.

04.01.2024 - 14:41

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ring, es gibt keine verkürzte Reihe, die Maschenanzahl in A.2 wechselt je nach den Zunahmen und die abgekettenen Maschen. Es kann vielleicht helfen, A.2 mit einer anderen Wolle extra zu stricken, um zu trainieren. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.01.2024 - 16:03

country flag Sandra Ring wrote:

Hallo, ich habe es gefunden, die erste Frage, bezüglich A2, in der Beschreibung. 🙄❣️ Ich hätte aber noch einige Fragen zu A2. Ich stricke gerade das rechte Vorderteil. Bei der 4. Reihe fehlt mir dann eine Masche (im Diagramm ist das eine rechts verschränkte Masche, genau da wo meine Bruchkante ist. Ignoriere ich dann diese rechts verschränkte und stricke diese Masche links, dass es eine Bruchkante bleibt?

04.01.2024 - 14:35

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ring, es wird bei der 1. Reihe A.2 2 Maschen zugenommen, so sind es 9 Maschen bei der 2. und 3. Reihe, bei der 4. Reihe ketten Sie die 2 ersten Maschen ab, dann stricken Sie die letzten Maschen wie beschrieben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.01.2024 - 16:01

country flag Sandra Ring wrote:

Hallo, ich habe es gefunden, on der Beschreibung. 🙄❣️

03.01.2024 - 19:43

country flag Sandra Ring wrote:

Hallo, liebes Drops Team, Ich bin beim rechten Vorderteil am Anfang/Bund. Erste Reihe ist gestrickt und Rückrunde habe ich auch. (A2 in Pfeilrichtung??? Ist das korrekt??? Und die nächste Reihe darüber wird das Diagramm von links nach rechts gelesen und gestrickt? Vielen herzlichen Dank für Ihre Bemühungen.

03.01.2024 - 19:26

country flag Lone wrote:

I opskrift drops 232-48, ser det ud til at der er en hækletkant, men jeg kan ikke læse mig frem til det, eller er mig som ser forkert ??. H. Lone

19.06.2023 - 19:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lone, Flæsekanten strikkes på ifølge diagrammet, som du finder til højre for måleskitsen nederst i opskriften :)

22.06.2023 - 14:10

country flag Ingrid Ehret wrote:

Liebes Drops Team, dannke für diew schnelle dAntwort. Das heißt ich beginne beim rechten Vorderteil mit dem Ende der 1. Reihe (Reihe mit dem Pfeil). und beim linke fange ich die Reihe am Pfeil an. Habe ich es verstanden. Vielen Dank

09.01.2023 - 10:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ehret, A.2 beginnen Sie bei dem Pfeil an beiden Vorderteile, den die Maschen von A.2 am Ende der 1. Reihe (egal ob Hin- oder Rückreihe ist) gestrickt werden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.01.2023 - 11:13

country flag Ingrid Ehret wrote:

Hallo, beim Vorderteil mit A 2 beginnen, laut Strickschrift (Pfeil) ist der Beginn auf der rechten Seite, im Textbeschriebe beginnt das Musgter auf der linken Seite. Was ist jetzt richtig. Bitte um baldige Antwort, komme so nicht weiter. Danke.

07.01.2023 - 17:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ehret, A.2 beginnen Sie am Ende der 1. Reihe, mit einer Rückreihe beim rechten und mit einer Hinreihe beim linken Vorderteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.01.2023 - 09:16

country flag Ingrid Ehret wrote:

Hallo, die Mascshen nach dem Umschlag auch rechts verschränkt zusammenstricken oder normal. Ich glaube dann habe ich alles verstanden. Danke

03.01.2023 - 12:06

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ehret, ja die 2 Maschen nach dem Umschlag stricken Sie rechts verschränkt zusammen (= siehe 9. Symbol). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.01.2023 - 16:44

Evening Walk Cardigan



Knitted jacket in DROPS Cotton Merino. The piece is worked bottom up in stocking stitch with short sleeves and flounces. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 232-48
DROPS Design: Pattern no cm-140
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour 28, powder

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Round (blush) NO 607: 4 items in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

SHORT ROWS (for front pieces):
To allow the flounces (A.2) to lie neatly, short rows are worked on the front pieces.
Right front piece:
Start on the 7th row of pattern and work from the wrong side: Work as far as the knitted stitch before A.2 (= folding edge), turn, tighten the strand and work back. Repeat every 12th row until the beginning of the V-neck.
Left front piece:
Start on the 7th row of pattern and work from the right side: Work as far as the purled stitch before A.2 (= folding edge), turn, tighten the strand and work back. Repeat every 12th row until the beginning of the V-neck.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 117 stitches) minus the edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 19) = 6.
In this example decrease by knitting together each 5th and 6th stitch.

DECREASE TIP-2:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 3, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased), work until there are 6 stitches left, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 3, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Decrease 2 stitches on each side as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 3, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased), work until there are 7 stitches left, knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased), knit 3, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over (2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back and front pieces are worked separately back and forth.
The flounces are worked on the front pieces. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle as far as the sleeve cap, then finished back and forth. The piece is sewn together and the bands worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 117-126-138-150-165-183 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 3 mm and DROPS Cotton Merino. Work rib as follows:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, work the first stitch in A.1 so the rib is symmetrical and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 3 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 19-20-22-24-27-31 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 98-106-116-126-138-152 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm, cast off 4-4-5-6-7-8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes. Then start decreasing on both sides – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease 2 stitches every 2nd row (each row from the right side) 0-0-0-3-5-8 times, 1 stitch every 2nd row (each row from the right side) 3-6-9-6-6-5 times and 1 stitch every 4th row (every 2nd row from the right side) 2-2-2-2-2-2 times = 80-82-84-86-88-90 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm. Now cast off the middle 36-36-38-38-40-40 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 21-22-22-23-23-24 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm. Cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 66-72-78-84-90-99 stitches (including 1 edge stitch towards the side and stitches for the flounce-edge towards mid-front) with circular needle size 3 mm and DROPS Cotton Merino. Work rib as follows: Knit 7, purl 1, A.1 until there is 1 stitch left, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
The next row from the wrong side is worked as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work rib as before over the next 57-63-69-75-81-90 stitches, knit 1 (= folding edge; this stitch is purled from the right side and knitted from the wrong side onwards) work A.2 over the last 7 stitches (= flounce-edge). The number of stitches in A.2 will vary, depending on which row you are working. Continue back and forth like this for 3 cm, then work the next row from the right side as follows: Work A.2 as before, purl 1 (= folding edge), knit until there is 1 stitch left and decrease 9-11-12-13-13-15 stitches evenly over these stitches – remember DECREASE TIP-1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 57-61-66-71-77-84 stitches (when there are 7 stitches in A.2)
Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl as far as the folding edge, knit 1 (= folding edge), work A.2 as before.
Continue back and forth with stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side, the folding edge and A.2 towards mid-front, at the same time as you work SHORT ROWS – see description above.

OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
Now cast off for the armholes as well as working the V-neck. Read V-NECK and ARMHOLE before continuing.

V-NECK:
When the piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm, start to decrease for the V-neck on the next row from the right side:
Work the edge, purl 1 (= folding edge), knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased), work to the end of the row.
Decrease like this every 4th row 1-1-1-1-1-1 time, every 2nd row 12-12-13-13-14-14 times and every 4th row 5-5-5-5-5-5 times (= 18-18-19-19-20-20 stitches decreased for the V-neck).

ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm, cast off 4-4-5-6-7-8 stitches at the beginning of the next row from the wrong side. Work to the end of the row. At the end of the next row from the right side, decrease for the armhole in the same way as on the back piece (i.e. 5-8-11-14-18-23 stitches + the 4-4-5-6-7-8 stitches cast off earlier).
When all the decreases for the neck and armhole are finished there are 22-23-23-24-24-25 stitches on the shoulder + 8 stitches on the edge (= folding edge + A.2). Continue working until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm. Cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 66-72-78-84-90-99 stitches (including 1 edge stitch towards the side and stitches for the flounce-edge towards mid-front) with circular needle size 3 mm and DROPS Cotton Merino. Work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work the last 2 stitches in A.1, work A.1 until there are 9 stitches left, the first stitch in A.1, purl 1 (= folding edge; this stitch is purled from the right side and knitted from the wrong side onwards) and A.2 over the last 7 stitches. The number of stitches in A.2 will vary depending on which row you are working. Continue back and forth like this for 3 cm, then work the next row from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit as far as the folding edge and decrease 9-11-12-13-13-15 stitches evenly over these stitches, purl 1 (= folding edge), work A.2 = 57-61-66-71-77-84 stitches (when there are 7 stitches in A.2)
Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work back as follows: A.2, knit 1 (= folding edge), purl until there is 1 stitch left and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth with stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side and the folding edge and A.2 towards mid front, at the same time as you work SHORT ROWS as on the right front piece.

OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
Now cast off for the armholes as well as working the V-neck.

V-NECK:
When the piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm, start to decrease for the V-neck on the next row from the right side:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the folding edge, knit 2 together (1 stitch decreased),work to the end of the row.
Decrease like this every 4th row 1-1-1-1-1-1 time, every 2nd row 12-12-13-13-14-14 times and every 4th row 5-5-5-5-5-5 times (= 18-18-19-19-20-20 stitches decreased for the V-neck).

ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm, cast off 4-4-5-6-7-8 stitches at the beginning of the next row from the right side then decrease for the armhole in the same way as on the back piece (i.e. 5-8-11-14-18-23 stitches + the 4-4-5-6-7-8 stitches cast off earlier).
When all the decreases for the neck and armhole are finished there are 22-23-23-24-24-25 stitches on the shoulder + 8 stitches on the edge (= folding edge + A.2). Continue working until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm. Cast off.


SLEEVES:
Cast on 72-78-87-93-99-108 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm and DROPS Cotton Merino. Work A.1 in the round for 3 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 13-14-15-15-15-17 stitches evenly spaced – remember DECREASE TIP-1 = 59-64-72-78-84-91 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid-under the sleeve). Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it is used when increasing under the sleeve. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work stocking stitch. When the sleeve measures 6 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP.
Increase like this every 1½-1½-2-2-1½-2 cm a total of 6-6-5-4-4-3 times = 71-76-82-86-92-97 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 19-18-18-17-15-14 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders and longer sleeve cap). Now cast off 8-8-10-12-14-16 stitches mid-under the sleeve = 63-68-72-74-78-81 stitches. Continue back and forth and cast off for the sleeve cap at the beginning of every row on each side as follows: 2 stitches 4-3-4-3-2-1 times, 1 stitch 2-7-6-11-16-20 times and 2 stitches 5-4-4-3-2-1 times = 23-26-28-28-30-33 stitches. Cast off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 28-29-29-30-30-30 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the flounces to the right side along the folding edge and sew the flounce-edge into the shoulder seam – the shoulder seam is sewn inside the cast-off edge.
Sew the sleeves to the body inside the edge stitch on the body and the cast-off edge on the sleeves. Sew the side seams from the armhole down, inside the edge stitch. Insert a marker mid-back of neck.

RIGHT BAND:
Make sure the flounces are folded to the right side and knit up stitches as follows:
Start at the bottom of the right front piece and knit up stitches in the knitted stitch (folding edge on the wrong side) as follows: 1 stitch in each stitch as far as the shoulder seam (= approx. 132-137-143-148-154-160 stitches), and 23-23-24-24-25-25 stitches inside 1 stitch to the marker mid-back.
Work as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until there is 1 stitch left at the same time as you increase with yarn overs at the bottom of the V-neck as follows: * knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 3 times and the number of stitches is adjusted to a total of 141-147-153-159-165-171 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch at the end of the row).
ROW 2 (right side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, work the first stitch in A.1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this for 2 cm. Now work the buttonholes as follows (it is neatest if the buttonholes are worked where you have 2 purled stitches):
1 buttonhole: Purl 2 together and make 1 yarn over.
The bottom buttonhole is 3 cm from the bottom edge and the top buttonhole where the V-neck starts. The other buttonholes are worked with approx. 7½-8-8-8½-9-9 cm between each one.
Continue the rib until the band measures 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

LEFT BAND:
Make sure the flounces are folded to the right side and knit up stitches as follows:
Start mid-back of neck and knit up 23-23-24-24-25-25 stitches along the neck as far as the shoulder seam, then 1 stitch in each stitch down the folding edge (= approx. 132-137-143-148-154-160 stitches)
Work as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until there is 1 stitch left, at the same time as you increase with yarn overs at the bottom of the V-neck as follows: * knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 3 times and the number of stitches is adjusted to a total of 141-147-153-159-165-171 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch at the end of the row).
ROW 2 (right side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, work the first stitch in A.1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the bands together at the back of the neck, with the seam to the wrong side. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram explanations
symbol = knit from right side, knit from wrong side (ridges in A.2)
symbol = knit 1 twisted
symbol = knit 1 twisted from right side, purl 1 twisted from wrong side
symbol = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbol = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbol = between 2 stitches make 2 yarn overs
symbol = purl 2 together
symbol = purl 1 in 2nd yarn over (first yarn over already worked)
symbol = knit 2 twisted together
symbol = cast off this stitch
symbol = start on this row

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